Fluval 13.5: Trying to keep it simple, low maintenance. Minimalist.

fisherdonk

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This first post is regularly updated to provide an overview of the tank's journey. This thread is kept in log book format.

The tank is setup to be viewed from all three sides, however designed to be viewed from the larger panels. The main viewing direction is embedded inline below. The pictures you see here are taken on an early morning for the reef with the AI Prime still completely off, so the anemone and others are still hiding. You can see the brownish diatom bloom I'm currently hosting. As you can see, I have scraped off the black grid from the DT portion of the aquarium for a cleaner look.

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Tank Equipment:
- Fluval Evo 13.5G Tank (scrapped off DT portion of black hex grid)
- Fluval 50W heater
- Accel Aquatics Nano Vortex RFG nozzle
- inTank Chamber 2 (Carbon -> Floss -> Pellets)
- Ai Prime HD w/ Gooseneck mount
- Seachem Ammonia Alert Tag
- Digital Thermometer
- Python No Spill
- Unknown magnetic glass cleaner

Chemicals & Additives:
- Microbacter 7
- Fritz's Fishless Cycle
- ReVive Coral Dip
- Seachem Prime
- Tropic Marin All-for-Reef

Testing Equipment:
- Salifert Tests: Nitrate, Ammonia, Phosphate, Calcium
- API 5 in 1 Test Strips

Food:
- Benereef
- Hikari Algae Wafers

Aquascape, Salt & Water:
- Dry Marco Rock
- CaribSea Arag-Alive Fiji Pink Sand
- E600 Glue
- Seachem Reef Glue
- Instant Ocean Sea Salt
- Filtered Tapp water using Tapp

Livestock:
- Scarlet Hermit Crab
- Nassarius snail
- Astraea Snail
- Certih Snail
- Spaghetti Work
- Bubble tip Anemone

Corals:
- Unknown Red/Purple Zoanthid
- Eagle Eye Zoa
- Pink Hammer
- Gold Hammer
- Firework Clove Polyp
- Frogspawn
- Jack-o-lantern Lepto
- Galaxy coral
- Pulsing Xenia
- Ricordea yuma
- Candy Cane Coral
- War Coral (Favite)

Phase 1:
The Marco rocks were glued together with epoxy at first, but that sucked so I switched to E600.
I stocked the tank with 1/2 RODI and 1/2 filtered tap water (I have a great filter that I plan to only use hereon out, my city also has very good water), mixed with the appropriate amount of salt mix to achieve 35ppt salt content. I seeded the cycle with Fritz Fishes fuel (recommended by LFS, I was going to opt for some Macrobacter 7 to get things started), in a slightly higher quantity than the appropriate amount (I was mislead by my SeaChem tag). I left for a week, and came back to an aquarium that had not changed much at all, the API strips I used to monitor the cycle showed some increase in nitrite and nitrates.
Here's where I got impatient.

Phase 2:
I was reading up on the "ugly phase" and dreading waiting for it. I did not like the look of the empty tank and so I decided to get a cleanup crew for a perfectly clean tank. 4 hermits, a bunch of snails. Shortly thereafter, I realised my mistake: The cleanup crew might starve, and I had not waited for ammonia levels to be safe (the tag showed 0.02ppm). At this point I decide it's time fix things.

Phase 3:
A day later I go to LFS and get Macrobacter 7, SeaChem Prime, Salifert tests, Frags, a BTA, Benereef, Reef Glue. I dose Macrobacter 7 into the tank (and continue doing so as it's daily for two weeks at first), thinking I can now skip the cycle safely. I then add SeaChem Prime to fix the ammonia situation and save my CUC. It took much more prime than the instructed dose to get ammonia down (weirdly, the tag became yellow, but salifert test still showed some ammonia, I assume this is due to nitrite). I then acclimated my frags, and put them in the tank.

- Zoa was placed on a little rock island on its own where I planned to add another and do a small Zoo garden. Barely off the sand bed.
- Euphyllia (torch I think) was placed on its own rock formation, at 1/2 height of the tank.
- Xenia on its own formation, about 1/3 up from the sand bed.
- The BTA I left on the sand.

I then turned on the blue lights, and fed Benereef in the instructed quantities.

Phase 4:
I finally had the time this Saturday to take proper care of the tank. I started out by testing Ammonia, Calcium, Phosphate and Nitrate. Also used the strips to get a second opinion and PH. I don't have a temperature prove yet but trust the heater. Refractometer for salinity. The parameters were a bit out of whack overall so I decided to do a 15% water change. I also move the Euphyllia slightly lower and a bit in the shade as I think it did not appreciate the quantity of light and flow of it's old location. I have not glued it yet as I wait to see how it adjusts. I am left with an ugly super glue scar on my rock, but one day that will be covered by coral. The corals overall seem to be recovering. The Zoa looks good. Xenia and Euphylia seem stressed. BTA seems ok I think? Might be stressed. The bubble tips are out but not all, I think the mouth is inflated. It moved to a high back of tank position on its own. Fed benereef again today (1 day apart from last feeding), but clumsily forgot to mix it in water before so much of it ended up on sand bed (snails were happy). I'm worried about the hermit crabs having nothing to eat. Haven't tested the parameters post water change as I wait for the salt to completely dissolve (I discovered today one should mix the salt many hours before hand). The Nicrew timer arrived today, and I'm figuring out a good schedule. I think a 3 hour ramp up and ramp down for a total 12 hours of light is my plan.

Phase 5:
A super kind local reefer who's moving gave me a bunch of equipment to upgrade my tank. Including an AI Prime HD, small pump, various filtration refills, etc. and a Ricordea yuma coral! You know who you are, thank you so much.

I have therefore switched my lighting to the AI Prime which really does make the colours more visually appealing. However this has meant getting rid of the lead which has made the evaporation rate skyrocket. I used to add some fresh water every week, and I now add three to four times that quantity every 2 days. I'm debating whether to go the ATO or lid route. So far I'm thinking lid since it has the double functionality of keeping (theoretical) future fish from jumping. I also 3D printer a shade for the light as my small apartment was essentially blue because of it. Now that I have access to a 3D printer, I'm looking to print a filter cover.

One of the other preoccupations on my mind is flow in the filter chamber. I have plugged the hole in the chamber 2 as recommended. However it seems to me like the flow in chamber 2 is not top down through each layer but rather horizontal due to the vertically distributed slits on the wall separating chamber 1 and 2. Regarding filtration, I'd also like to minimise waste so will probably eventually get a reusable filter pad to place atop my filter floss so it has to be changed less often. I also think that once I fix the flow, the order of filter stages will go from: Carbon, Floss, BioPellets to Filter Pad|Floss, BioPellets, Carbon. I did add some matrix to complement the bio pellets that came with the tank.

At the time of writing, I am going through, what I think is, a diatom bloom in the tank. This is most likely due to silicates from my tap water. This is actually a mildly good thing for me as I was starting to worry the CUC had no food, and the day prior to this bloom started feeding Hikari algae wafers for this first time (that's on pause till 5 days after this bloom is over). I have switched to feeding Benereef every 3 days now and dosing Microbacter 7 once a week.

Still dealing with high nitrates, replaced the filter floss to see if that will help.

Phase 6:
Inhabitants seem to be happy. I believe the bloom of diatoms has consumed nitrates because they are now down to good levels! My CUC is having a feast. I was worried the other day as I found a hermit leg, but I think one melted rather than lost one out of stress as I cannot find a legless hermit. Today, I got 3 new corals (great sale at LFS, all 3 for $10!): Star Polyps, Lepto and another Zoa for the garden.

== End of phase summary ==
 
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FishRN

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Just a heads up most anemones tend to do poorly in newer tanks. Also pick up an alk test it’s one of the major tests for reef keeping. Take things slow and let your bio filter establish.
 
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fisherdonk

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Yes alk test and corresponding nutrient solution is planned but I don't know much about it yet. I would think calcium would be enough?
 

FishRN

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Really need to have both kits if your calcium’s is out of wack it can mess with alk. My calcium hardly ever fluctuates but alk tends to change weekly even with kalkwasser drip top offs.
 
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fisherdonk

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Local reefer gave me a working AI Prime HD 16, so I'm thinking of replacing the stock light and hood with that light and custom translucent hood; then selling the stock housing. Still debating that idea though, I would like to get some money back from this setup as I'm way over budget.
 

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Local reefer gave me a working AI Prime HD 16, so I'm thinking of replacing the stock light and hood with that light and custom translucent hood; then selling the stock housing. Still debating that idea though, I would like to get some money back from this setup as I'm way over budget.
I run a prime on my evo and love it. Def worth losing the lid if you don't mind dealing with the extra evaporation.
 
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fisherdonk

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Yesterday, switched to dosing Microbacter 7 weekly, and Benereef every 3 days instead of every 2. I have also started feeding my snails and crabs Algae wafers (hiker) after suffering the loss of 3 small Nassarius snails (I believe the scarlet hermits were hungry).
 
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fisherdonk

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Today, I noticed for the first time that some type of brownish algae is growing on my rock, substrate and glass. This is rather odd as it seem to have come on very suddenly. Yesterday I did a 40% water change as nitrates have been high for a while (~80) and I have been trying to gradually get them down (now ~40).
 
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fisherdonk

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From here on out, first post will be an overview, and thread the logbook/discussion.

Measured today:
- Temp: 77.6F
- Nitrates: 50 mg/L

I am looking for a 3D model of a cover for the "sump" part of the tank. I have found this one but I am not skilled enough in 3D modelling to customise it. So that's a work in progress. Still looking for an affordable clear cover for the main portion of the tank.

I scraped off the black hex grid from the DT for a cleaner look.
 
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fisherdonk

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Diatom bloom expectedly consumed LOTS of nitrate, which is GREAT for me. Nitrates measured today at 10 mg/L using salifert.

I wonder if this will cause an ammonia spike as my snails consume them. So watching out for that.
 
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fisherdonk

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Inhabitants seem to be happy. I believe the bloom of diatoms has consumed nitrates because they are now down to good levels! My CUC is having a feast. I was worried the other day as I found a hermit leg, but I think one melted rather than lost one out of stress as I cannot find a legless hermit. Today, I got 3 new corals (great sale at LFS, all 3 for $10!): Star Polyps, Lepto and another Zoa for the garden.
 
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fisherdonk

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I've decided that I am unhappy with the flow through Chamber 2 of the tank. Even with the inTank basket. The flow remains horizontal rather than top down. I can see stagnant water at the top of the chamber where the carbon packet is.

i think my solution is going to be to 3D print a flat black plastic piece to cover those side holes, and glue it on, water will then come in through the top, and through pressure go down and back up chamber 3. Has anyone seen better solutions?
 
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fisherdonk

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I made a mistake and went back to the coral store today. Could not resist buying three euphyllia for my small garden: frogspawn and hammers. Also found another hermit leg, still can't identify a crab missing one though.
 
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fisherdonk

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Watching the Euphyllia, I have come to think that flow in my tank is not high enough. Even at near the surface on the right island I cannot see them sway. I may replace the pump with something a bit stronger. I think the RFG head Ihave should be ok, though wonder if directed heads would’ve been better.

I’m still debating between ATO and hood. I’d like the most aesthetic thing ultimately.

I have decided to definitely do something about the filtration system. Flow sucks there. I’m going to do some research on the most optimal setup for the Fluval.
 
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fisherdonk

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Still facing off diatoms. The stringy stuff is everywhere and the low flow is not helping. Getting a better nozzle today, hopefully that will help.

This post also marks the end of me stocking my tank for the foreseeable future. I added today a purple favite and blue candy cane coral.

Nutrients under control (N/P)

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Aluco

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How's the Lil setup going? I started a 9g fluval flex. I ended up shoving a biocube skimmer in the first chamber, have yet to get it to skim anything tho. Has your bta been doing ok?
 

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Did you say minimalist? I’ve been on the trail for the same thing with my 13.5. Everyone will say that waterchanges are easy with a nano and they’re not wrong but, I like easier. In sept I stumbled onto a thread for a denitrator. It’s a tube filled with media which houses the bacteria needed to make it work. With the correct size, flow and carbon dose I’ve gotten my NO3 from 36ppm to 4ppm yesterday. If you’re interested I’ll link the thread.

Edit: My setup is simple. Mechanical filtration and pump for denitrator in chamber 1, cheato in chamber 2 lit with an innovative marine cheato light, chamber 3 stock return pump , heater and a half bag of chemipure.
 

A worm with high fashion and practical utility: Have you ever kept feather dusters in your reef aquarium?

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