Frag tank

[jacobcoral]

I was wondering if anyone has some insight on what could be wrong with my frag tank. Some of the ZOAS are opening and will stay open all day and then there are others that are completely shut or halfway open etc. All of my parameters are in check. My uncle is at 10.2. I have not tested phosphates, but there are .5 nitrates. 0 amonia 0 nitrite. I’m using an AI prime with the blues set at 50% as long as the purples set at 50% with whites at 10% I have no idea what could be causing them to be not opening. Does anyone have any idea ideas?

 

[Fish Fan]

My first thought is that your nitrates seem very low for Zoas, and I'd bet willing to be so is your phosphate. Feeding the fish more to raise those numbers may help here. I'm sure others will have further suggestions as well.

 

[jacobcoral]

My first thought is that your nitrates seem very low for Zoas, and I'd be willing to be so is your phosphate. Feeding the fish more to raise those numbers may help here. I'm sure others will have further suggestions as well.

I was thinking about feeding reefs because I know those will 100% raise the nitrates

 

[jacobcoral]

I was thinking about feeding reefs because I know those will 100% raise the nitrates

My one buddy thinks it’s bc I try to keep the water very clean, but Zoas like the water to be dirty.

 

[Fish Fan]

My one buddy thinks it’s bc I try to keep the water very clean, but Zoas like the water to be dirty.

This is what I'm thinking. Maybe not "dirty" exactly but nothing like near zero nitrate, and Zoas and softies can sometimes seem to do better with elevated nitrate.

 

[jacobcoral]

This is what I'm thinking. Maybe not "dirty" exactly but nothing like near zero nitrate, and Zoas and softies can sometimes seem to do better with elevated nitrate.

Do you think feeding the tank reef rods would help that? I just tend to steer clear bc I hate the nusiance alage it can cause

 

[Uncle99]

Phosphate is an important contributor so you need to test that. With a low nitrate number, there’s some potential of phosphate being zero, which, starves everyone in your system.

I would dose up your nitrate to 3-5ppm and test your phosphate and bump it up to say .1ppm.

This way, everyone can feed.

 

[jacobcoral]

Phosphate is an important contributor so you need to test that. With a low nitrate number, there’s some potential of phosphate being zero, which, starves everyone in your system.

I would dose up your nitrate to 3-5ppm and test your phosphate and bump it up to say .1ppm.

This way, everyone can feed.

Do you know if refrains will help with this? Or should I buy something that directly adds those elements?

 

[Uncle99]

Do you know if refrains will help with this? Or should I buy something that directly adds those elements?

It will, but anytime we feed more it takes quite some time to break down.

Dosing up, so neo-nitro and neo Phos, is both easy and available right away.

The only test kit that ever worked for me for phosphate was the Hanna, Phosphorus Checker in PPB.

If you phosphate was zero, that’s something I would like to correct quickly, and then use increase feeds to maintain over the long term.

I’d resolve the phosphate issue (if there’s a issue) first, as this parameter IMM, is key like ALK and salinity.

Can’t tell if it’s the problem, but A, we don’t know the level and B, we must ensure it’s available and stable.

 

[Uncle99]

The above is assuming that somewhere you have your rock as it provides a ton of good surface area for your bio-filter to mature. I can’t see that in the pic. Sand great as well, lots of surface area.

These are the surfaces in which the good guy types of algae and bacteria’s live and populate. They in turn feed on the disolved organics including N & P, which in turn, feeds the corals, in addition to what is made by the coral through photosynthesis.

These processors, are the real deal CUC and serve to keep surfaces clean.

My Frag tank is virtually no different than my DT, just a different box.

 

[jacobcoral]

It will, but anytime we feed more it takes quite some time to break down.

Dosing up, so neo-nitro and neo Phos, is both easy and available right away.

The only test kit that ever worked for me for phosphate was the Hanna, Phosphorus Checker in PPB.

If you phosphate was zero, that’s something I would like to correct quickly, and then use increase feeds to maintain over the long term.

I’d resolve the phosphate issue (if there’s a issue) first, as this parameter IMM, is key like ALK and salinity.

Can’t tell if it’s the problem, but A, we don’t know the level and B, we must ensure it’s available and stable.

Awesome I will test it when I get home and then order some neo phos bc I need it.

 

[jacobcoral]

The above is assuming that somewhere you have your rock as it provides a ton of good surface area for your bio-filter to mature. I can’t see that in the pic. Sand great as well, lots of surface area.

These are the surfaces in which the good guy types of algae and bacteria’s live and populate. They in turn feed on the disolved organics including N & P, which in turn, feeds the corals, in addition to what is made by the coral through photosynthesis.

These processors, are the real deal CUC and serve to keep surfaces clean.

My Frag tank is virtually no different than my DT, just a different box.

I have rocks hidden in the back for that reason and hang on the back filter from CM to help build up bacteria. I actually think I have a phosphate remover in the filter that I’m going to need to remove and now I’m assuming this is what the problem is for sure. What is it called to add phosphate? I can’t find any products neo phos is remover when I search it

 

[Fish Fan]

If you were running a phosphate removing media I'd take that out and then see where you are. You're very much going to need a phosphate test kit, you never want to dose anything without being able to test for it.

 

[jacobcoral]

If you were running a phosphate removing media I'd take that out and then see where. You're very much going to need a phosphate test kit, you never want to dose anything without being able to test for it.

I have the Hannah checker

 

[jacobcoral]

I have the Hannah checker

If you were running a phosphate removing media I'd take that out and then see where. You're very much going to need a phosphate test kit, you never want to dose anything without being able to test for it.

My hang on the back filter only has filter floss. Is there anything else I should be running inside of it?

 

[Uncle99]

I have rocks hidden in the back for that reason and hang on the back filter from CM to help build up bacteria. I actually think I have a phosphate remover in the filter that I’m going to need to remove and now I’m assuming this is what the problem is for sure. What is it called to add phosphate? I can’t find any products neo phos is remover when I search it

Brightwell Neo-phos to increase phosphate

 

[JTP424]

Some DIY Phosphate :)

DIY Phosphate Dosing

Howdy, Similiar to my nitrate dosing I am looking to begin dosing phosphates to ensure I NEVER bottom out nutrients again... What's chemicals do I need to get!? I dosed sodium nitrate for nitrate.

www.reef2reef.com

 

[TX_REEF]

if zoas are your focus, more nutrients is definitely the move. currently my display tank is at 50 nitrate and .23 phosphate (not intentionally, and this is too high, just making a point), and ONLY the zoas are happy, so you definitely want detectible levels of nitrate and phosphate.

 

[Fish Fan]

I have the Hannah checker

Sorry, I thought you said you didn't have a phosphate test kit or Checker, I must be thinking of another poster :)

 

[jacobcoral]

if zoas are your focus, more nutrients is definitely the move. currently my display tank is at 50 nitrate and .23 phosphate (not intentionally, and this is too high, just making a point), and ONLY the zoas are happy, so you definitely want detectible levels of nitrate and phosphate.

My phosphates are up to .14 and my nitrates are about 7

I’m pretty sure I’m going through a bacterial bloom as my water is cloudy, I’m going to add a UV sterilizer to hopefully fix that. Anyways, my zoas are still not opening and I have zero idea what the issue could be, I moved a frag out of my frag tank to my main tank and it already looks better. I’m not sure what is happening and causing the water to be like this.