General DIY LED thread

[TDEcoral]

Alright guys I could use some advice.

I'm in process of upgrading to a new tank (75 gallon) and I'm trying to figure out my lighting options. The 75g is 48" x 18" and I keep a lot of acros, FYI. I've got a bunch of LED components on hand from other builds, but I'm not sure which direction I should go with this one. Here's a list of what I already have:
Drivers
1 Meanwell HLG-320H-C1050B
4 Meanwell ELN-60-48D

LEDs
6 Citizen CLU048-1212 80CRI COBs (4000k)
4 EB series bridgelux 22" 3500k strips (part # BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-A3)
5 Luxeon K16
34 RapidLED solderless Cree XP-G3 royal blues
4 RapidLED solderless Semileds hyper violet (420-430nm)

Heatsinks
6 round 110mm with pins
2 RapidLED 1.6" x 36" T-slot

Dimming control will be via my apex.

I also plan on using a 36" two bulb T5 retrofit kit to help with shading.

The HLG driver was used to power the 6 COBs. The ELN drivers were used to power the Cree royal blue LEDs in the 36" heatsinks as supplements to the T5 on my 40 breeder. Ideally, I'd like to use as much as I can of what I already have, but I'm not against buying new stuff if it's needed. I'm planning on building a canopy to stuff the lighting in once I finish making the doors for the stand.

Let me know your thoughts and opinions!

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

So played around with the Fresh Fish K16 combo yesterday, I really like the look! Punch for punch they compliment each other very well to make a cool looking white or a deep blue if needed. I don't think I'll be adding the sunplus whites, but I will be adding 3 hyperviolets today, then a couple of mints and see how it's looking.

I also have two Vero 10s 3500Ks I wanted to try out, but I REALLY like the look of the fresh fish and K16; at least in free air. I'll have to fill up the 40b and put some rock in there to see how it would look over a tank. Something to do this weekend.

PS. i really don't like the push connectors on Steve's 8up driver board.

 

[Silent]

What wattage are the whites?

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

What wattage are the whites?

If you're referring to the FF cobs, either 12.6w if on 350ma driver or 24. 5w on 700ma driver.

 

[Silent]

I thought the HLG driver powered all 6 cobs in TDEcoral's post? Was just confused on that. That seems to be a lot of power for 1 driver.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I thought the HLG driver powered all 6 cobs in TDEcoral's post? Was just confused on that. That seems to be a lot of power for 1 driver.

OH, I was talking about the LumiLED cob I used. He's using Citizen high CRI cob, which looking at the datasheet takes 34.6v typical and max current of 690ma. Could theoretically drop 23.8w.

 

[Silent]

I believe for you adding the hyper violet will be a nice addition.

 

[Halo_003]

Hey all,

I need some assistance and input with an LED build for an IM Nuvo 30L which is BTA/SPS dominant.

I currently have the below:

Arrays: 4 x AcroStar Mega4Z 20k Pro Blue (48W)
Driver: 4 x AcroIQ Micro LED Driver v2 (ordering 2 more)
Power supply: Meanwell HLG-240H-48B
Heatsink: 24" Aluminum unibody similar to this
Controller: Bluefish Mini

I intend to run a 4 conductor wire to the fixture, 2 for +/- 48V, 2 for +/- 12V. The 12V will be for the fan and Bluefish Mini power

My understanding is I should run 48V to VIN/GND on all 4 AcroIQ drivers in parallel. Then each driver should run two channels of the string (2 pucks per string) in series.

I diagrammed out a single channel of one side of it since otherwise it would be too messy. (full view and zoom in on left side).

Could any of you let me know if any of this is wrong?

 

[oreo54]

Highest voltage channel is 15V sooo x 2 = 30 ..36V ps is big enough .
There are some minor advantages..

Second thing:
Instead of 2 power supplies.. One plus a tap off to a voltage adjustment (regulator) board..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596S-DC-DC-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-Bochen-3296/322244319252?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=40719&meid=2bea331f2e894f4a92e894b1d3fec8e2&pid=100677&rk=1&rkt=30&mehot=lo&sd=182388670401&itm=322244319252&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2385738&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

also minor..
would do away w/ the 12V common you need to add.
Err never mind the above.
That always confuses me. Most of my current power supplies have internal 12V rails soo I haven't dealt w/ it in awhile..
(surplus TDK-Lambdas)

 

[Steven Garland]

I'll just leave this here:

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I'll just leave this here:

Is that Dave's v3. 1? I like it!

Neater than my test run.

Think I'm going to up to 22awg from 20.

 

[TDEcoral]

Alright here's where I'm at. I decided to get three of the rapidled 6"x12" fixtures. Haven't quite decided on drivers or a board yet. I'd really like to use a driver board that'll mount to the heatsink in the middle of the two clusters, but there's only like 0.5" of space cause of the splash shield so I don't believe LDD-Hs will fit. I might just get a 5up LDD-H board with SCW (for the fan) and mount it in a project box.
I was thinking I'd run the two Citizen COBs in parallel on a 1000ma or 700ma LDD so each COB would be getting 500ma or 350ma. Each k16 will have to be on it's own LDD because they pull like 42v each. I'm thinking 700ma or 1000ma for them.
What else should I add? I'm leaning towards a 3up with cyan, blue, and what would be a good 3rd? I want to put some violet 3up on there too. Give me your suggestions.

 

[Halo_003]

Highest voltage channel is 15V sooo x 2 = 30 ..36V ps is big enough .
There are some minor advantages..

Second thing:
Instead of 2 power supplies.. One plus a tap off to a voltage adjustment (regulator) board..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596S-DC-DC-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-Bochen-3296/322244319252?_trkparms=aid=555018&algo=PL.SIM&ao=2&asc=40719&meid=2bea331f2e894f4a92e894b1d3fec8e2&pid=100677&rk=1&rkt=30&mehot=lo&sd=182388670401&itm=322244319252&pmt=1&noa=0&pg=2385738&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

also minor..
would do away w/ the 12V common you need to add.
Err never mind the above.
That always confuses me. Most of my current power supplies have internal 12V rails soo I haven't dealt w/ it in awhile..
(surplus TDK-Lambdas)

Thanks! I plan on a dedicated 12V line because my fixture can hold a max of 1/4” vertically, and I couldn’t find a 48-12V step down that could fit. it would definitely be easier though, I just don’t know of anything that low profile.

Second question for you guys, as far as I can tell a Raspberry Pi Zero W could replace the Bluefish Mini to push the PWM dimming, does it need additional hardware to do that? I only have 4 channels of control.

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

Alright here's where I'm at. I decided to get three of the rapidled 6"x12" fixtures. Haven't quite decided on drivers or a board yet. I'd really like to use a driver board that'll mount to the heatsink in the middle of the two clusters, but there's only like 0.5" of space cause of the splash shield so I don't believe LDD-Hs will fit. I might just get a 5up LDD-H board with SCW (for the fan) and mount it in a project box.
I was thinking I'd run the two Citizen COBs in parallel on a 1000ma or 700ma LDD so each COB would be getting 500ma or 350ma. Each k16 will have to be on it's own LDD because they pull like 42v each. I'm thinking 700ma or 1000ma for them.
What else should I add? I'm leaning towards a 3up with cyan, blue, and what would be a good 3rd? I want to put some violet 3up on there too. Give me your suggestions.

Are you going to use any 390-420nm range leds?

 

[oreo54]

Ldd-h's can be put in there with modifications of the drive boards.
Need to remove the stand ups and through hole solder the drivers. Trimming the backside..

 

[oreo54]

12V Step-Down Voltage Regulator

12V Step-Down Voltage Regulator by Pololu

www.getfpv.com

Looks pretty stumpy..

 

[TDEcoral]

Are you going to use any 390-420nm range leds?

Probably not sub-400nm unless it's recommended, but definitely 400-430nm. I'd prefer to do the violet as a 3up, so I have to see who offers what.

Ldd-h's can be put in there with modifications of the drive boards.
Need to remove the stand ups and through hole solder the drivers. Trimming the backside..

Which board is that? I've been eyeing the Nanobox board, so if I can through-hole solder the LDD-H and SCW, and still use the splash shield that would be perfect.

 

[oreo54]

Chinese ones from e-bay..........

5 Channel MeanWell LDD-350H LDD-500H LDD-700H LDD-1000H LED Driver on PCB Board | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 5 Channel MeanWell LDD-350H LDD-500H LDD-700H LDD-1000H LED Driver on PCB Board at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

custom led puck foolishness :/

www.plantedtank.net

post #16

FYI: no pull down resistors

Lddh's spec at .48"

JUST below the channel...

 

[Steven Garland]

Chinese ones from e-bay..........

5 Channel MeanWell LDD-350H LDD-500H LDD-700H LDD-1000H LED Driver on PCB Board | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 5 Channel MeanWell LDD-350H LDD-500H LDD-700H LDD-1000H LED Driver on PCB Board at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

custom led puck foolishness :/

www.plantedtank.net

post #16

FYI: no pull down resistors

Lddh's spec at .48"

JUST below the channel...

I LOVE that,how is the color ? I always wanted to try though. For the price its 100% better than a Radion array.

Is that Dave's v3. 1? I like it!

Neater than my test run.

Think I'm going to up to 22awg from 20.

Yeah it is and 3 Semi 430's for added punch. I want to switch 2 out for a 390-400 and a 410-420nm. I was trying to add 2 Semi Royals and 2 Semi 430's but I guess the driver wouldn't take the voltage and fried 2 of my Semi violets -___-

 

[AbjectMaelstroM]

I'm about to be playing the same tetris game with drivers lol. I need 8 channels so trying to fit and 8 up worth of stuff in the heatsinks along with the fan is proving to be a pia.

If I scale down the fan from factory 92mm to a 60mm I should have enough room. Another option is an external box for the drivers hidden in the power wall/panel but I would really like to have 90% of the guts being mounted IN the fixture to help with the wiring. So that I only need a 16awg 2 conductor from the PSU and the cat5e carrying the 8 channels of pwm from the pi to the fixture.

Should just fit the 60mm in there.