Getting ready for a peninsula

twotangs · Nov 27, 2018

Hi -
My name is Greg and I live in Shermans Dale, PA. I have been keeping fish for a long time and have had some sort of reef tank for 25 or more years. I have mostly been an observer here on R2R, adding a small comment here and there. I have learned a lot from other peoples systems - both what I like and what I don't and what may apply to our setup here. Thank you to all who post your successes and failures as it helps so many.

To get you up to speed on where I am at aquarium wise.......I had a 120 in-wall (really a converted closet) in our living room. You can see it was a well establish reef, till a day in summer about two years ago I went to work not realizing the GFI had tripped. 12 hours later the tank had that smell of rotting eggs, all my fish were dead, the corals took a big hit as well. I was pretty crushed. I powered it back up, removed the dead and dying and it pretty much just sat for several months. Do I just want to get out all together or maybe have a do over? The display did have some issue that I wanted to resolve - mostly pests in the form of flat worms and bubble algae. Also a good problem to have was some of the colonies were getting really big. After some thought we decided to move forward. The new display will be a peninsula with the sump and a second aquarium in the basement. I am big into DIY, not so much into colored PVC pipe, like equipment to function but not to be seen, minimal electrical cords going into the display and a pest free environment.

Here is my 120 back in the day:

This is the last pic I took before I removed the 120. It shows that we converted a closet. The back side is the foyer, the new tank will be a custom peninsula viewable from the living room and the foyer:

We hope to have the construction part done over the winter (need to install a header to allow for the peninsula) so the new tank can be sized and ordered. So this will be a longer term project. First I want to move to the basement to put in place some of my ideas for the main display in the smaller 70 gallon tank. My thinking is I can workout the issues there so when the time comes to put in the new tank I will have the plan in place.

About a year ago we redid the "fish room" downstairs. Here is what it started like:

All well and good but a few things I need to change......I want to drill the 70 to allow for a bean style overflow, the 40 breeder will be okay for coral QT but I need self contained QT for fish that I can move around and out of the fish room in case I end up with a fish that has ick. I also need to add some more support to the stand the 70 sits on.

Over the weekend I setup my 37 gallon QT tank for fish. It will serve as a temporary location till I get the 70 drilled and plumbed. It is on wheels so I can move it around, includes a UV, Tunze DOC skimmer, HOB filter and a low intensity light. Pending how I am treating; things can be turned off should said treatment call for that. But for now just a temp location for my fish.

The 40 is just sitting on the floor with a few corals in there, this will work for now:

Here it is all move out:

And the current state of the fish room, kind of a mess........

The current todo list:
1- clean up some of the equipment (skimmer, pump, MD-40)
2- reenforce the stand a little
3- run another PVC pipe in the wall to support the Bean from upstairs
4- drill the 70 and plumb it to the sump

SPR1968 · Nov 27, 2018

That’s an absolutely brilliant write up Greg and thanks for sharing all the pictures, very nice

The 120 looked stunning

Following along....

dylana407 · Nov 27, 2018

Wow.... following.

NY_Caveman · Nov 27, 2018

Very nice! Sorry you had catastrophe on that beautiful tank. Glad to see a new build though!

pshootr · Nov 27, 2018

Look like this is going to be good. Thank you for sharing.

twotangs · Nov 28, 2018

Thanks all - kind of funny that I got that GSP pic in there. Did not intend to add that one. GSP's have a nice color and I like the movement but once established they too fall into the "pest" category as they are so aggressive.

Janci · Nov 28, 2018

Amazed by your previous set up and fish room.
Very clean and organized.
I am sure the new build will turn out awesome as well.

Following along.

twotangs · Nov 28, 2018

The heart of my system is the Reeflo Barracuda pump. Moves a lot of water and can handle the push between floors. I keep one on the shelf as a "hot spare" while the other is pumping away. The thing about these pumps is they require service. Like all pumps they needs cleaned from time to time and for these a seal replacement is needed. I have found they will last about 24 months maybe longer. I try to replace them every 18 months or so.
Here are the steps I take when replacing the seal:

Here is the pump I just took off-line

When you take it apart and unscrew the impeller you can see the seal. Even through they are stainless steel, you can see they are starting to rust.

After you remove the four screws holing the back of the volute to the motor you can remove the volute to get to the seal and expose the motor shaft.:

You can see how the salt will corrode the shaft which is why I will replace the seals before they "need" to be.

A socket is a good "tool" to use to knock out the seal from the Volute:

Next time to go to the sink and clean all the parts so you can reassemble.

One thing that needs to be done is to clean the motor shaft. I use some 100 grit sand paper and then plug in the motor. I use the sand paper to clean the corrosion off the motor shaft. After the shaft is clean it will look something like this:

Here is everything ready to put back together:

Next take the back of the volute and add a small amount of silicone rubber around the hole where the seal fits

Then insert the new seal. Sometimes the seals are tight to get back in if that is the case find another socket the right size (needs to just touch the outer ring of the seal - NOT the carbon part of the seal) and tap it in.

Before you put the back of the volute with the new seal back on the motor get some plumbers grease and coat the shaft up to the threads. You don't need a lot you just want to help protect the shaft the best you can. Next get some silicone grease and apply a little to the threads on the shaft. This will make the removal of the impeller at next service so much easier. Now put the volute back on the motor.

The new seal comes with a new ceramic that goes into the impeller. Pry out the old one and replace with the new one. Next get some rubbing alcohol and wipe off the ceramic part and only the carbon part on the other side of the seal. You do not want any grease/dirt/oil on the seal at all. Then screw on the impeller to the shaft. A common screwdriver holding the shaft from the opposite end helps when tightening the impeller.

Next make sure the rubber O-ring going around the front of the volute is clean and in place. Then put the front the volute back on and tighten all the bolts. Let the pump sit for at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure.

All ready for the next "cycle"

twotangs · Nov 28, 2018

Janci said:
Amazed by your previous set up and fish room.
Very clean and organized.
I am sure the new build will turn out awesome as well.

Following along.

Thanks and I hope so!!

Janci · Nov 28, 2018

twotangs said:
The heart of my system is the Reeflo Barracuda pump. Moves a lot of water and can handle the push between floors. I keep one on the shelf as a "hot spare" while the other is pumping away. The thing about these pumps is they require service. Like all pumps they needs cleaned from time to time and for these a seal replacement is needed. I have found they will last about 24 months maybe longer. I try to replace them every 18 months or so.
Here are the steps I take when replacing the seal:

Here is the pump I just took off-line

When you take it apart and unscrew the impeller you can see the seal. Even through they are stainless steel, you can see they are starting to rust.

After you remove the four screws holing the back of the volute to the motor you can remove the volute to get to the seal and expose the motor shaft.:

You can see how the salt will corrode the shaft which is why I will replace the seals before they "need" to be.

A socket is a good "tool" to use to knock out the seal from the Volute:

Next time to go to the sink and clean all the parts so you can reassemble.

One thing that needs to be done is to clean the motor shaft. I use some 100 grit sand paper and then plug in the motor. I use the sand paper to clean the corrosion off the motor shaft. After the shaft is clean it will look something like this:

Here is everything ready to put back together:

Next take the back of the volute and add a small amount of silicone rubber around the hole where the seal fits

Then insert the new seal. Sometimes the seals are tight to get back in if that is the case find another socket the right size (needs to just touch the outer ring of the seal - NOT the carbon part of the seal) and tap it in.

Before you put the back of the volute with the new seal back on the motor get some plumbers grease and coat the shaft up to the threads. You don't need a lot you just want to help protect the shaft the best you can. Next get some silicone grease and apply a little to the threads on the shaft. This will make the removal of the impeller at next service so much easier. Now put the volute back on the motor.

The new seal comes with a new ceramic that goes into the impeller. Pry out the old one and replace with the new one. Next get some rubbing alcohol and wipe off the ceramic part and only the carbon part on the other side of the seal. You do not want any grease/dirt/oil on the seal at all. Then screw on the impeller to the shaft. A common screwdriver holding the shaft from the opposite end helps when tightening the impeller.

Next make sure the rubber O-ring going around the front of the volute is clean and in place. Then put the front the volute back on and tighten all the bolts. Let the pump sit for at least 24 hours for the silicone to cure.

All ready for the next "cycle"

Very interesting.
Thank you for sharing.

twotangs · Nov 29, 2018

Picked up one of these to add to the 70:

Should give me what I need for the Bean in this aquarium:

Now I just need to drill a couple holes. Measure three or four times and drill once. I hope to do this this weekend

twotangs · Dec 3, 2018

Over the weekend I had some time to work on the "poof of concept" idea I have. With everything removed from the stand I was able to add two more supports. I have noticed some deflection in the wood so that needed to be corrected. Had some paint left over from another project so gave the stand a quick refresh.
Now to drill the 70 for the Modular Marine over flow. First added some tape to the back of the glass:

Next was to create some water "pools" with plumbers putty and getting the bit and guide ready:

When I first tried to start drilling, I quickly realized the bit that Modular Marine included was bent. Maybe it was just a cheap bit or got bent in shipping. I am sure if I reach back out to them they would have sent a replacement. Good thing I have a spouse that works with art glass and just happens to have a much better quality core drill just the right size - I think I will use that. The chrome bit is from Modular Marine the brass is from my wife :)

You can see how the chrome bit was wobbling trying to get it started

Anyhow - I used the guide to get the holes started, then just the drill to complete each hole. Took about 10 minute for each one, slow and steady with a couple short breaks along the way.

Both holes drilled without too many issues - so that is good!

And the first test fit.......

twotangs · Dec 3, 2018

Now that the tank is drilled I can begin the process of putting things back and laying out the plumbing for the internal flow and the Bean overflow.
For anybody that uses a Bean now, I have seen pictures with the valve on the full siphon right at the bottom of the overflow. I am guessing that is for ease of adjustment. Will I have an issue if I place the full siphon value down at the sump?

Picked up a few of these - can't wait to see how they work:

Here is how the fish room looks today - still a bit of a mess but at least the sump and tank are back in there.

Janci · Dec 3, 2018

twotangs said:
Now that the tank is drilled I can begin the process of putting things back and laying out the plumbing for the internal flow and the Bean overflow.
For anybody that uses a Bean now, I have seen pictures with the valve on the full siphon right at the bottom of the overflow. I am guessing that is for ease of adjustment. Will I have an issue if I place the full siphon value down at the sump?

Picked up a few of these - can't wait to see how they work:

Here is how the fish room looks today - still a bit of a mess but at least the sump and tank are back in there.

Hi, great progress.
There is normally no issue to put the gate valve at the sump side.
It will only take a little longer time to create a full siphon as there is more air in the pipe to be pushed out.
My valve is also close to the sump and it works fine.

twotangs · Dec 4, 2018

Janci said:
Hi, great progress.
There is normally no issue to put the gate valve at the sump side.
It will only take a little longer time to create a full siphon as there is more air in the pipe to be pushed out.
My valve is also close to the sump and it works fine.

Thank you for the feedback. Good to know for this tank which is right above the sump. What would your thought be in the valve at the sump when the sump is in the basement and the aquarium is on the first floor? Other than running up and down the steps a few times, any other concerns?.

Janci · Dec 5, 2018

twotangs said:
Thank you for the feedback. Good to know for this tank which is right above the sump. What would your thought be in the valve at the sump when the sump is in the basement and the aquarium is on the first floor? Other than running up and down the steps a few times, any other concerns?.

Even then I would still run the tank with the valve close to the sump in the basement.
But I hope someone else, who actually has the sump in the basement, can confirm this for you.

twotangs · Dec 6, 2018

My thought for the peninsula is to create some things I have seen when SCUBA diving. That is a sloping wall from the surface down to the sandy sea floor. I have some thoughts on how to create this upstairs but for my proof of concept aquarium I plan to use rock to create the wall and hide the closed loop. Yesterday I was able to put some fresh water back in the tank to see what kind of flow I would get. Here I am using a Vectra S1 in closed loop mode. The RFG's look to do what they advertise. The upper two returns are just wide flow LOC-Line returns. I may add two more RFG's in the future. The S1 is very silent. All this is working toward my goal of minimal pumps and cords going into the display.

twotangs · Jan 4, 2019

Despite being sick over the Christmas Holiday I was able to make some progress. The 75 has the rock back in it and what corals I have left. The fish are still in the 37 gallon while the "new" tank settles in. I hope through all this process I have rid myself of some unwanted pests, All the star polyps, mushrooms, bubble algae and any remaining flatworms should all be gone. I still have some more arranging to do in the fish room but that process is almost completed. Here are some more pics of where things are as of now: