GHL Build

[jayhawkmata]

I was asked to put this out to the Reef 2 Reef community. I have gotten some great information from the GHL Facebook users group and also by working directly with GHL tech support and have gotten closer to my ideal GHL equipment build for my tank. I was originally going to use the Apex products and then fortunately found the GHL family of products and information from the Reef2Reef site...and am sold!!! My plan it to do an ultimate setup for a new RedSea Reefer 525XL tank and using GHL products to run and test the tank.

I am also now looking at the Waterbox tanks as members have expressed that these are comparable to the RedSea Reeefer tanks. This tank is going to be setup in my office so I want to be able to check on it and maintain it when I am away from work.

Some of you may have seen the first layout but this is the new version after advice from enthusiasts and GHL tech.

 

[Peach02]

Looks good, only feedback i can see is mounting may be difficult for all the GHL Equipment or are you doing a controller cabinet?. If your looking to compare to waterbox, the 180.5 would be the best point of comparison.

 

[jayhawkmata]

I'm already planning a controller cabinet for the GHL equipment. I really like the one that adaptive reef did for them as their trade show demo. As far as the Waterbox goes. It looks like the RS 525XL kind of sits between the 130.4 and the 180.5 for volume.

 

[Member No 1]

The system layout looks good, not sure if you'll be able to get the display, it's been discontinued. A retail store might have one in stock. I tried, no luck.
But if I may suggest, I think you can utilize the (2) power bars better.
A. Move one of the heaters to the second power bar. This is for redundancy. I am running (2) heaters, and have them set up so one runs 12am to 12pm, then the other runs 12pm to 12am. But, in the case one can't keep up, the other will kick in to help.
B. Don't waste the outlets on the MP40's. Just plug them into a good quality power strip, and get the GHL Vortech Interface to control programming, speed, and feed mode.
C. You have the Maxi Doser for AWC, and a spare head on one of the 2.1 dosers, so ditch the Tunze ATO in favor of using the 2.1 for ATO. When set up with the Maxi for AWC using a 2 float system, the top float can also act as the ATO float. And as a bonus, when the P4 does a water change, it will automatically deactivate the ATO feature so you won't be adding top off water as the AWC is running.
If you do these, you will now have 3 spare outlets.

 

[jschultzbass]

The system layout looks good, not sure if you'll be able to get the display, it's been discontinued. A retail store might have one in stock. I tried, no luck.
But if I may suggest, I think you can utilize the (2) power bars better.
A. Move one of the heaters to the second power bar. This is for redundancy. I am running (2) heaters, and have them set up so one runs 12am to 12pm, then the other runs 12pm to 12am. But, in the case one can't keep up, the other will kick in to help.
B. Don't waste the outlets on the MP40's. Just plug them into a good quality power strip, and get the GHL Vortech Interface to control programming, speed, and feed mode.
C. You have the Maxi Doser for AWC, and a spare head on one of the 2.1 dosers, so ditch the Tunze ATO in favor of using the 2.1 for ATO. When set up with the Maxi for AWC using a 2 float system, the top float can also act as the ATO float. And as a bonus, when the P4 does a water change, it will automatically deactivate the ATO feature so you won't be adding top off water as the AWC is running.
If you do these, you will now have 3 spare outlets.

Also don't really need the lights plugged in to the GHL strip either. You could easily go down to one strip if you wanted.

 

[jayhawkmata]

I guess the only control on the lights being plugged into the GHL strip, if i stay with the ReefLED 90's, would be power on or off, right?

 

[jayhawkmata]

The system layout looks good, not sure if you'll be able to get the display, it's been discontinued. A retail store might have one in stock. I tried, no luck.
But if I may suggest, I think you can utilize the (2) power bars better.
A. Move one of the heaters to the second power bar. This is for redundancy. I am running (2) heaters, and have them set up so one runs 12am to 12pm, then the other runs 12pm to 12am. But, in the case one can't keep up, the other will kick in to help.
B. Don't waste the outlets on the MP40's. Just plug them into a good quality power strip, and get the GHL Vortech Interface to control programming, speed, and feed mode.
C. You have the Maxi Doser for AWC, and a spare head on one of the 2.1 dosers, so ditch the Tunze ATO in favor of using the 2.1 for ATO. When set up with the Maxi for AWC using a 2 float system, the top float can also act as the ATO float. And as a bonus, when the P4 does a water change, it will automatically deactivate the ATO feature so you won't be adding top off water as the AWC is running.
If you do these, you will now have 3 spare outlets.

Yes, planned to run two heaters for safety but putting them on separate power bars makes good sense!

Ok, thought about using the 2.1 for ATO but wasnt sure how to do it correctly. I would set up a high level and a low level sensor for ATO and the High Level sensor can be a dual sensor for AWC and ATO?

 

[Member No 1]

Yes, planned to run two heaters for safety but putting them on separate power bars makes good sense!

Ok, thought about using the 2.1 for ATO but wasnt sure how to do it correctly. I would set up a high level and a low level sensor for ATO and the High Level sensor can be a dual sensor for AWC and ATO?

You only need 2 floats. The bottom tells the P4 when you STOP removing the OSW, the top has double duty. First when to STOP adding NSW and when to turn On and Off the ATO.
There are videos on GHL international site showing how to do it.

 

[Member No 1]

I guess the only control on the lights being plugged into the GHL strip, if i stay with the ReefLED 90's, would be power on or off, right?

I'm not familiar with the ReefLED 90's, but unless they have a built in timer, you would need the P4 to control the lighting schedule.

 

[ReefGoddesss]

I'm not familiar with the ReefLED 90's, but unless they have a built in timer, you would need the P4 to control the lighting schedule.

Does the ReefLed 90’s have a separate app or interface for controllability? I ask this as I’m not too familiar with them, as I run the AI Hydras on my RedSea Reefer. I’m also a Profilux controller owner and I do not have my Hydras plugged into the PAB to save outlets. I use the AI Hydra app to initially setup my lights and they’ve worked flawlessly. Once you have your lights initially programmed, they should work automatically and there would essentially be no need to manually turn them on or off. You can plug them directly into the wall outlet or an expanded switch outlet. I have the lights plug into a DJ Adj. Outlet bar to save additional space. That way if I do need to quickly disconnect the lights I can do so simply by hitting a switch on the outlet.

 

[Member No 1]

@ReefGoddesss Maybe the OP @jayhawkmata can answer your question.

I'm running (2) 250w DE MH and (4) 54w T5's. This uses up (3) outlets.
In the near future, I will be switching over to (2) LX-7206 Mitras LED's. That will free those outlets up.

 

[jschultzbass]

Does the ReefLed 90’s have a separate app or interface for controllability? I ask this as I’m not too familiar with them, as I run the AI Hydras on my RedSea Reefer. I’m also a Profilux controller owner and I do not have my Hydras plugged into the PAB to save outlets. I use the AI Hydra app to initially setup my lights and they’ve worked flawlessly. Once you have your lights initially programmed, they should work automatically and there would essentially be no need to manually turn them on or off. You can plug them directly into the wall outlet or an expanded switch outlet. I have the lights plug into a DJ Adj. Outlet bar to save additional space. That way if I do need to quickly disconnect the lights I can do so simply by hitting a switch on the outlet.

Quote from the ReefLED 90 page:
"They integrated the control of the light into the ReefBeat smart aquarium app and the built-in WiFi lets you directly connect the light to your smart device to set the daily schedule, color, intensity, and other features."

 

[Member No 1]

Quote from the ReefLED 90 page:
"They integrated the control of the light into the ReefBeat smart aquarium app and the built-in WiFi lets you directly connect the light to your smart device to set the daily schedule, color, intensity, and other features."

So there's 3 more outlets you can save. You "could" get by with only 1 power bar. But I personally would go for 2 and have the heaters on separate bars.

 

[ScubaShane]

Any updates yet?

 

[Wolters_88]

Do you need the PF4 to control the maxi for the ATC or can a stand alone do it?

Rock Chalk

 

[Maxx]

I'm interested in this build. I'm trying to educate myself on controllers and keep leaning towards GHL due to the reports of Apex failures. For the amount of money it "protects" and costs, system failure isnt really an option IMO.