Discussion in 'Triton Applied Reef Bioscience' started by Tim@Triton, Apr 5, 2017.
Is it or will it be available in Canada?
This sort of looks appealing (and interesting) - but I am finding it real hard to get a bead on associated costs based on an existing tank, not to mention how realistic this would be for US-based hobbyists.
Have heard of this method via online forums, but never investigated. Will have to read up further on it and see what initial startup costs would be to switch to Triton method. On a scale of 1-10 I'm curious how many reefers are using this method, for how long and what overall success has been? Any cons to this method?
I use Triton. I have been using it since August last year. I have a controller on my tank. It's not my first reef.
I think every method has pros and cons.
To highlight some pros:
No water changes
Stable parameters (provided you test your water often.)
High success coral/fish/tank wise from the start.
-Highish Start price - Buy yourself a good reliable dosing machine(can be pricey, but needs to be accurate)
-A Triton styled sump is highly recommendable, means it needs to be a little larger or custom
-test alkalinity ALOT. I test alkalinity every 2-3 days, for some people that's not possible, or just too annoying, but keeps me in tune with my reef, and tells me how I need to adjust my dosing.
All in all I have had a positive experience, I enjoy the ease and paint by numbers style to reefing and parameters. It has taken a lot of the unknown and frustration out of keeping my reef tank.
I can agree that I spend more time enjoying my reef, than being irritated with it like my last one.
Triton is not perfect. No system is. The ocean is.
Do lots of research, and find something that matches your reefing style and budget.
Thanks for the info! Very helpful. Yes, will continue to read up on it and see if it's something that works for me.
Thank you for posting this!
On page four it says some of the algae should be allowed to die-back to release beneficial chemicals into the tank. On page eleven in the maintenance section it says to prune algae to prevent excess die-back. This all makes sense, yet I thought I read threads on this forum where users talked how they didn't trim their macro algae because that's the triton way. Either I misunderstood or it was misstated, while you don't trim the macro for nutrient export, you you do trim your macro algae so that only a little (some amount based off experience) is actually decomposing. Correct? You are trimming some amount of that cheato ball and throwing it away.
How much and how often you trim is dependant on your own set of circumstances, if you have high nutrients then you can trim more/more often, if your nutrients are low then you can trim less/often, even coming to a point where you no longer need to trim at all and the Algae refugium becomes self regulating.
Die off is an important part of the process of the Triton Method as this is when some useful sugars, fatty acids and other useful ingredients are added into the water for the corals to consume. Therefore when you do choose to "harvest" you don't just remove what looks like the old no good algae, a bit of each is ideal some new some old.
The excess die back refers to if the algae becomes too dense slowing the flow through the sump and effectively blacking out that light below, this can have bad effects on the system if too much of the algae is aloud to die back in one go.
You will get a feel for how your system performs, and when to trim and when to leave it alone .
Thank you for posting this..
I have been using Triton core 7 reef supplement 2 months ago and maintaining Kh at 8 dkh. However in the guide it is recommended to maintain Kh at 7 dkh while using core 7 base element!
is this recommended for core 7 reef supplement also?
Also using the Core7 on my tank. Works very well, easy to maintain (especially if you are a busy person).
I test KH every other day to follow my tank, but that is basically all the maintenance I do during the week.
Accurate dosing pump is very important, currently I am using the ATI-doser, but will be upgrading this soon.
Either Pacific Sun Kore 5th or APEX DOS.
A stable KH of between 7-9 is fine, we have found though that some tanks run better at 7 dKH especially with Core7.
How about a chaeto reactor at the place of the refugium ?
Yes that would work however I would use the Core7 for other methods and not the Triton Method version.
I can't see the difference between them anywhere online, it's just saying "other methods" but what is the main difference please between them, why they're different products?
Also why using the "other methods" line chaeto reactor can handle also different type of algae it's just a "small" closed refugium we can say, no?
The difference is the elements required to "turbo charge" the algae refugium as used in the Triton Method are reduced for those not able to have a large refugium. Using the Triton Method version could result in elements accumulating as they are not being taken up quick enough or worse be available for pest algae.
Triton this is covered in a dozen threads on R2R recently and I've personally answered it like 3 times in the past two weeks. Tim, I can't imagine you like answering the same question a couple times of a day
Maybe a sticky or FAQ at the top of the forum and you probably should update your manual to make it clearer
Haha cheers Michael, we will be releasing more manuals very soon to cover these subjects
Oh, I'm so sorry that I took a little part of you precious time Michael. Very sorry ... and such a long message you typed. Very informative also, thanks.
I think it's totally normal asking same questions before you want to spend money on the product, more Tim answer more they'll sell.
"Google it" definitely not the best customer support answer right? But again .... so sorry to bother you with my question.
Thank you very much.
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