Hanna Nitrate Checker Review

Darren in Tacoma

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We test every Sunday and simply start the long test first and do other tests while waiting for the first to develop. We spend a couple hours testing and maintaining every week regardless. For the colorblind this could be useful.
 

92Miata

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UPDATE:

Did a dilution run today and a salifert test to see how close the two are...

VERDICT: They're pretty close... Salifert had the sample around the 10ppm range, Hanna said 9.8 (just have to remember to do the math and multiply the results by 10)

The process adds a bit of extra time that can be done quickly once you're familiar with it... BUT it does require you to have freshly made SW on hand.

The steps are to take 1ml of tank water, as fresh SW to 10ml line in vial, draw out 7ml, throw out the remaining 3ml... then you put the 7ml back into the vial and follow the standard process / instructions. (lol)

But again, for that 0.2ppm accuracy, i spent 20 mins+...
Higher resolution - not accuracy.

There's no real reason to believe the Hanna's 9.8 is closer to the true value than the Salifert's 10. The error range at that point for the Hanna is +/- 3ppm.
 

Jeff Jarry reef

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My test came up crazy salifert was 2 and diluted hanna ×2 was 20 thats big difference IMO. And checked it twice to make sure. I have used salifert for awhile now. Hanna not trusting it right now.
 

smurfjacks

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My test came up crazy salifert was 2 and diluted hanna ×2 was 20 thats big difference IMO. And checked it twice to make sure. I have used salifert for awhile now. Hanna not trusting it right now.
If nitrate is 2 you don't dilute the sample I spoke with Rob silva at hanna before getting mine in last week if you dilute the sample it won't read below 5ppm non diluted sample reads 0-5 ppm
 

Jeff Jarry reef

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If nitrate is 2 you don't dilute the sample I spoke with Rob silva at hanna before getting mine in last week if you dilute the sample it won't read below 5ppm non diluted sample reads 0-5 ppm
I know first test was blinking so according to hanna it was higher thats why i diluted it on the second test. Thanks
 

Sleepydoc

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We test every Sunday and simply start the long test first and do other tests while waiting for the first to develop. We spend a couple hours testing and maintaining every week regardless. For the colorblind this could be useful.
Can definitely see the use of these for people with vision issues (color blindness or otherwise.)

As far as starting the test then running other tests, I do that with my Hana phos checker and Red Sea NH4+ test, but this test seems like it needs more consistent interaction, so it’s at least 10-12 minutes of actively testing vs simply waiting for it to develop.
 

Colin_S

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good write up, I've used 4 types of no3 test kits
Nyos, struggled with judging the yellows.
Red Sea, the waterthats been tested looks more purple, so I'm trying to judge the shade rather than colour. The colour wheel looks pink.
salifert. I like
Api - I like but no low range

I would like to see how accurate these actually are? We're taking it that these are more accurate than the others, where's the proof? We need a BrsTv investigates video, similar to the low range phosphorous one, where they compare it to a science grade equipment.
Has anyone tested it where the No3 is already known?
@randyBRS i'm sure this is in the works? Also need to check the low range and diluted higher range accuracy.
I'm not colour blind, but for some reason judging slight different shades i struggle with so I don't mind taking the extra time as long as it's worth it.

why can't we get a checker to just check the colour of the salifert/red Sea kit. How hard can it be?
 

Creggers

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So I'm going to throw my 2c in as a self identified hannah fanboy. I was lucky enough to receive one of these from my secret santa this year and I've used it a handful of times now.

I will say that the time to run the test is in the ballpark of 15 minutes which doesn't really bother me. I tend to do all my testing in one day (all with checkers) and set aside around 30 minutes to test NO4/ALK/CA. (Ordering a PO4 checker here shortly)

If you don't mind learning the process and burning around two tests doing so, it's fairly easy to get repeatable results. To confirm accuracy I ran two tests back to back and one with a salifert test to verify results. I got 3.11 / 3.15 from the checker and would ballpark the salifert at 3. I took the salifert test first to avoid tainting my results.

For me - I have a new tank and I'm still dialing in my nutrient export / uptake. Recently I've been working to get some NO4 in the tank as it was running at zero for a while. To me, it's worth having an exact number rather than trying to read a card from the side.

I will say however that long term, I only plan on testing NO4 monthly to determine if a water change is required (going to be running triton so limited WC is the goal). If I was testing more frequently, I don't think I could commit to the time required to get a reliable result.
 

diver22

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I'm so confused, I'm using Salifert Nitrate tester, when doing the calculator "http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/calculator.htm" do I go by the mix 5.0 or 0.50 ?

This:

Screen Shot 2021-08-03 at 10.53.46 AM.png


Or This:
Screen Shot 2021-08-03 at 10.51.58 AM.png
 

Dr. Dendrostein

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Got my new Hanna Nitrate checker in today and just finally had a chance to take it for a spin...

VERDICT: It's good if you want accuracy and consistency (outside of user error), and looking to measure for very targeted nitrate levels...particularly <5ppm.

PROS: Better resolution than typical test kits, especially for stick-heads looking ot control nitrates under 5 ppm.
CONS: Takes longer to test than any liquid test kit and lots of things to do and lots to clean following (mixing vial, sample cuvette, 2X syringes, needle, filter housing)

I read the instructions prior to the arrival of my nitrate checker... seems complicated but wanted to get a sense of how truly complicated it is by running a test. And after doing so, it's fairly involved. Though, I expect after a few times of getting the hang of it, it won't be complicated...but it will be tedious.

There are at least 7 steps involved... 3 reagents, 2 vials, 1 filtration... and if you're thinking your nitrates are over 5ppm, then add in a dilution step. AND, it won't save you time. It takes about 15 - 18 mins to do the test, fully buffered... here's how it breaks down:

  • 1 Min - sample collection and addition reagent A and B
  • 1Min - shake
  • 2 Mins - transfer solution into syringe, add filter, fill liquid into sample cuvette
  • 1 Min - zero sample
  • 3 Mins - Add regent C and shake for 2 mins
  • 8 Mins - Wait for reaction and measurement
Compared to taking up to 4 mins on a Salifert kit, or 8 mins on API...

And let's not forget if you guessed wrong thinking you have low nitrate <5ppm... run the Hanna test and it turns out you have higher nitrates than 5ppm afterall...then you have to rerun the whole test and blow another pack of reagents plus extra dilution steps. AND DOUBLE your time. Happened to me...
I bought mine like 2 months ago I opened the box closed it and put it up on the shelf. I'll probably give it away to somebody. So I went this route in 30 seconds it reads your nitrates. And then you don't have to buy regimens. All you do is get a sample of your water put the probe in the water and in 30 seconds as the French say voila. Marine point nitrate monitor.
As to accuracy I've had no issues with it
 

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diver22

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Cool gadget pretty pricey, but eventually it will pay itself after buying all the regimens,

But was looking more for the mix ratio using the calculator should I do the mix to achieve 0.50 or 5.0 ?
 

MnFish1

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my curiosity - is it really important (if so, why) - to know whether one's nitrate is 3 vs 4? or 2 vs 4? Or are we all fooling ourselves that those differences matter in real life?
 

diver22

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my curiosity - is it really important (if so, why) - to know whether one's nitrate is 3 vs 4? or 2 vs 4? Or are we all fooling ourselves that those differences matter in real life?
Your correct, 3 versus 4 is not my concern, my concern would be if Im mixing and dosing for a specific target I need to understand if I need see what the calculator states according to the recommended Nitrates which is 5 PPM to 10 PPM for a healthy reef tank.

so the question is is that .50 or 5.0, I think and might be wrong, but 5.0 is 8 times more than 0.50...

I would imagine the mix of Phos is the same, 0.05 versus 0.50... If I'm incorrect please educate me, just trying to get the correct mix ration..

Thanks, again not worried about 3 versus 4.
 

MnFish1

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Your correct, 3 versus 4 is not my concern, my concern would be if Im mixing and dosing for a specific target I need to understand if I need see what the calculator states according to the recommended Nitrates which is 5 PPM to 10 PPM for a healthy reef tank.

so the question is is that .50 or 5.0, I think and might be wrong, but 5.0 is 8 times more than 0.50...

I would imagine the mix of Phos is the same, 0.05 versus 0.50... If I'm incorrect please educate me, just trying to get the correct mix ration..

Thanks, again not worried about 3 versus 4.
My point related more to the general utility of this product - does one really need to know if their nitrate is 2 or 4 - or .3 or .5., etc. I merely wondered if people think this is just another test that one can 'do' - but will be be helpful?

About your question: I think phosphorous is different to a degree than nitrate.

Are you worried about a Nitrate/Phosphate ratio? I'm not a big fan of shooting for a Nitrate/Phosphate (or vice versa) ratio ALONE - due exactly to the reason you listed above - possible variation in the test. Lets say you're shooting for a Nitrate/Phosphate ratio of 10 (for for simplicity) - a nitrate of 100/Po4 of 10 will give you that. So will a nitrate of .1 and a PO4 of .01. So - I was referring more to the utility of the test itself - why does one need/want to know whether the nitrate is 1 or 3?
 

diver22

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My point related more to the general utility of this product - does one really need to know if their nitrate is 2 or 4 - or .3 or .5., etc. I merely wondered if people think this is just another test that one can 'do' - but will be be helpful?

About your question: I think phosphorous is different to a degree than nitrate.

Are you worried about a Nitrate/Phosphate ratio? I'm not a big fan of shooting for a Nitrate/Phosphate (or vice versa) ratio ALONE - due exactly to the reason you listed above - possible variation in the test. Lets say you're shooting for a Nitrate/Phosphate ratio of 10 (for for simplicity) - a nitrate of 100/Po4 of 10 will give you that. So will a nitrate of .1 and a PO4 of .01. So - I was referring more to the utility of the test itself - why does one need/want to know whether the nitrate is 1 or 3?, hopefully someone can answer my question leaving the Salifert test out of it... Is more for the mix ratio...

Lets forget the Salifert Testing kit, Really what my concern is Using the calculator what is the target PPM, should I use the .50 or 5.0... Thanks...
 

MnFish1

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Lets forget the Salifert Testing kit, Really what my concern is Using the calculator what is the target PPM, should I use the .50 or 5.0... Thanks...
Your question is unclear. And the pictures are unclear - I don't see where you're typing in .5 or 5 as the 'target'. Either way - the calculator is giving you the same result. Calculator 1 - If you mix up that solution - if you add 150 cc per 160 gallon, you will get 5.7 ppm nitrate. If you use calculator 2 - if you add 20 cc/160 gallon you will get .76 ppm nitrate. Comparing the 2 - if you take 150cc/20cc and multiply by .76 you will also get 5.7. Thus the calculator is not recommending the 'target' - thats your choice. The calculator is just telling you what to add depending on your 'target' - i.e. where you want the nitrate to be. You can pick any number .5, 5, 3, 10, etc. Hope this helps - to me its unclear what you're exactly asking. I also have no 'target' nitrate level - except perhaps 5-10.
 

diver22

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Your question is unclear. And the pictures are unclear - I don't see where you're typing in .5 or 5 as the 'target'. Either way - the calculator is giving you the same result. Calculator 1 - If you mix up that solution - if you add 150 cc per 160 gallon, you will get 5.7 ppm nitrate. If you use calculator 2 - if you add 20 cc/160 gallon you will get .76 ppm nitrate. Comparing the 2 - if you take 150cc/20cc and multiply by .76 you will also get 5.7. Thus the calculator is not recommending the 'target' - thats your choice. The calculator is just telling you what to add depending on your 'target' - i.e. where you want the nitrate to be. You can pick any number .5, 5, 3, 10, etc. Hope this helps - to me its unclear what you're exactly asking. I also have no 'target' nitrate level - except perhaps 5-10.
Ok, maybe your correct and not communicating what I want.

1 - when people say a healthy Nitrate level is between 5 to 10 PPM correct ?
2 - Using the calculator does this translate to 5.00 PPM or 0.50 PPM ?

My goal is 5 to 10 PPM, so trying to understand the translation if any.
 

MnFish1

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Ok, maybe your correct and not communicating what I want.

1 - when people say a healthy Nitrate level is between 5 to 10 PPM correct ?
2 - Using the calculator does this translate to 5.00 PPM or 0.50 PPM ?

My goal is 5 to 10 PPM, so trying to understand the translation if any.
OK - that makes sense - if you want a nitrate of 5 ppm - if you do the math - both calculators are saying the same thing. I assume you have a 160 gallon tank - you would use 150 ml of the solution to the 160 gallons to get a nitrate of 5.76. (assuming 1) the calculator is correct, 2) your tank volume is 160 gallons, etc)
 
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