HELP, Expert reefer struggle with a new system.

Ali-F

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Hi All,

I am helping a friend here, below is his writing. So please let us show him all the support.

The introduction:-

I used to have 425l (100g) mixed reef tank( redsea reefer 425xl) that leaked and I managed to glue it the best way I can. It was an ugly job and I decided to move to a new bigger tank as I don't want to experience the same nightmare again.

The reefer 425xl
IMG-20220713-WA0031.jpg


Trying to save as much as I can
Screenshot_20220907_223604_WhatsApp.jpg


On 22-may-22 I started my new 650L (150g) tank started with dry rock & dry sand. Fishless cycle using brightwell bacteria at the beginning and then used Dr.Tim. The tank got fully cycled on 21-jun-22 after 4 weeks. I Did my first ICP test on 13-July-22 to ensure no heavy metals were leached from the rocks or the sand, no screw was dropped in the water unintentionally during the labour work and any possible scenario could happen. Here is the test results

IMG-20220907-WA0034.jpg


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IMG-20220907-WA0033.jpg


I was keeping it at lower salinity level for the cyclebut leveled it up.

The new tank is coming out nicely.

IMG-20220907-WA0029.jpg


After the cycle, I was stuck on high phosphate 1.2ppm, phosphorus was 400ppb, GFO was not enough to reduce it so I used lithium chloride from Britewell dosed in 10micron filter socks until it reached 0.1 phosphate on 9-jul-22 and nitrate was tested to be15ppm.

And since that date up to date:
po4 steady on 0.09-0.12ppm
No3 steady on 11-16ppm
kh steady on 7 up to 30-jul-22
Kh 8.5 since 10-aug-22 up to 1-Sep-22.

IMG-20220907-WA0025.jpg


Okay, now with the issues I am facing.

On 13-July-22 my the unwanted horror happened and the other tank started leaking. So I had to move the corals and fish to the new system. My initial plan was to wait at lsast 3-4 months to see good indicators like caroline algae, sponge, pods, good worms..etc before I insert corals. But trying to be postive and looking to the bright side, the cycle was completed and the ICP test result I did was very good.

So, I was forced to transfer my old fish and coral to the new system on 13-jul-2022. My corals especially the sps couldn't be any happier for the first 10-15 days then suddenly started to die without any obvious reason.

When everything looked good.

IMG-20220907-WA0008.jpg


When everything started to become ugly.

IMG-20220907-WA0016.jpg


Coral conditions:

Old and newly added frags of acros: STN and algea on the tips. Except the bali green slimer which is located at the bottom.
Montis started losing colors slowly and died.
Blastomossa, lobo, torch, favia and mashroum were and still are happy.
Candy coral shrieked.
Zoas are fine.
Even the styropora strarted STN.

IMG-20220907-WA0013.jpg



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IMG-20220907-WA0009.jpg


IMG-20220907-WA0014.jpg


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IMG-20220907-WA0020.jpg


IMG-20220907-WA0021.jpg


Desperate action measure taken:

- The lights was 300 par on top and 200par on bottom. So I reduced the light to 200 on top and 150 on bottom.
- I inspect all equipment mostly brand new and no corrosion is found.
- No stray current in the water.
- I suspected the lithium chloride but according to icp test no issue.
Some reefer devised me not to change water because the aquarium considered a new and I am following it.

- Other reefers advised me to get water from sea to enrich the biomass of the tank. So I travelled miles into the sea and did 10% natural seawater changed.
-I dose 25 drop of microbacter 7 on a dailybasis.
- The biological filters consist of crashed coral + Siparox ceramic rings, all from my old aquarium.
- I did another ICP test on 26-August-22 and the test results show all numbers are within the desired level
as shown below.

IMG-20220907-WA0030.jpg


IMG-20220907-WA0032.jpg


IMG-20220907-WA0031.jpg

That's all. I hope someone can point out what is wrong with this system. Why corals are dying.

Thank you in advance for your reply. IMG-20220907-WA0010.jpg IMG-20220907-WA0015.jpg
 

DaddyFish

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1. There's more to light than just PAR. I can't tell if the lights are the same from leaking tank to new tank? If not, is the spectrum significantly different?

2. Do I have it right, was all the livestock moved same day? Dumb question, but was/is ammonia tested regularly?
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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where is the mention that you lowered light intensity to allow for the very different organic loading in the new system

I noticed a hyperfocus on phosphate, any use of GFO in a new system can be implicated in your issue, you'd have been better off not trying to suppress po4 and handling any algae in other ways.

the first move for you now is lower your light intensity those corals will be harmed if normal levels persisted.
 

brandon429

why did you put a reef in that
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I do not think water chemistry did this.

We do tank transfer studies here, using reefs like that out to 50 pages

am posting this data for you to mine, we dont have crashes, we test for nothing


what's the key things we keep repeating here for 8 years on tank transfers: no gfo, no testing, light levels dropped and increased feeding at the new setup beyond norm/ people are usually very hands off with the new setup, we show action planned and routine feeding/export above norm under weaker lighting at the start to be best. we show that all new sandbeds are to be rinsed, few do that.

the #1 thing I suspect to be a starting issue is light burning, this was happening rather frequently in early tank transfer works, before that thread above

once we started habitually lowering the light levels for a while in the new tank, the losses stopped. we recommend no gfo, no testing and response to nitrate or phosphate in the first six mos (and this is right during the time the majority of reefers mess with it most)
 
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Ali-F

Ali-F

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1. There's more to light than just PAR. I can't tell if the lights are the same from leaking tank to new tank? If not, is the spectrum significantly different?

2. Do I have it right, was all the livestock moved same day? Dumb question, but was/is ammonia tested regularly?


1. This was suspected too and the lights of the old tank were installed on the new tank. No improvement till today.

2. No ammonia or nitrite detected after fish Transfare for a week with daily testing
 

maroun.c

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Believe the corals have been through a lot of changes which stressed them out. Moving corals even if lights are same will lead to different corals getting different lights due to positioning. Best is to acclimated slowly over few weeks and observing and slowing down when corals show stress.
I'd run some polyfilter in case there is any contaminant that was missed.
Continue with slow and consistent water changes making sure rodi is at 0 tds.
Give some.amino acids to help the corals but way less than indicated.
Check parameters frequently and adjust dosing as unhappy corals will stop growing and levels might start climbing.
 
Last edited:

When to mix up fish meal: When was the last time you tried a different brand of food for your reef?

  • I regularly change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 36 23.5%
  • I occasionally change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 52 34.0%
  • I rarely change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 46 30.1%
  • I never change the food that I feed to the tank.

    Votes: 15 9.8%
  • Other.

    Votes: 4 2.6%
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