HELP, ick in display tank

Angelos

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Hello to all. I have a reef tank that got ick 1-2 months ago. The fish were living happily until now but there is a huge outbreak and everything is going downhill. My stock fishlist is:
2 dartfish
2 clowns
1 small hippo tang
1 large kole tang
1 foxface
1 flame angel
1 watchman goby
5 chromis
1 mandarin goby
1 carpenteri wrasse
1 flame hawkfish
With the research i have done, one way is to let everything die and let the tank sit fallow for 80 days of fish, or catch everything and put it in a hospital-quarantine tank for 80 days in order to treat the fish and eliminate the parasite from the display tank. Please help me to save the fish. What size of hospital tank should i get for these fish? I am so lost
 
Hello to all. I have a reef tank that got ick 1-2 months ago. The fish were living happily until now but there is a huge outbreak and everything is going downhill. My stock fishlist is:
2 dartfish
2 clowns
1 small hippo tang
1 large kole tang
1 foxface
1 flame angel
1 watchman goby
5 chromis
1 mandarin goby
1 carpenteri wrasse
1 flame hawkfish
With the research i have done, one way is to let everything die and let the tank sit fallow for 80 days of fish, or catch everything and put it in a hospital-quarantine tank for 80 days in order to treat the fish and eliminate the parasite from the display tank. Please help me to save the fish. What size of hospital tank should i get for these fish? I am so lost
If you have a second tank use it with fish only (NO INVERTS, CORAL , and NEMS!!!!!) run some Fritz Copper safe with temp to 82 for 30days and run some Kick Ich Pro to kill free swimmers in your display tank or maybe upgrade your Canister filter with a Inline UV to kill off any parasites swimming freely best upgrade for your reef tank to keep that parasites and algae out
 
you could try rally pro with kick-ich pro in your tank by rubyreef
Best thing to do if you have No Other Tank To Run copper safe for 30days just make sure to add garlic Guard by seachem in the food to help boost immune system since Reef safe meds aren’t as Effective then copper Meds
 
First question do you have corals and inverts. If yes then copper can not be used in display tank and the fish would have to be pulled and put in a QT. That’s a lot of fish I would say probably a 30g or 2 20s to avoid aggression, add pvc pipes elbows for shelter. Petco has some cheap tanks. Put a filter and add bacteria to the QT, you can even add some media from your display. You wanna keep a good eye on ammonia and water change when needed or ammonia is detected. Copper powder and a copper tester Hanna can be used. Keep copper at 2.25-2.5. I’d keep them at this level for 3 weeks. After that QT is complete. Once the tank is completed it’s follow period add fish back
 
If you have a second tank use it with fish only (NO INVERTS, CORAL , and NEMS!!!!!) run some Fritz Copper safe with temp to 82 for 30days and run some Kick Ich Pro to kill free swimmers in your display tank or maybe upgrade your Canister filter with a Inline UV to kill off any parasites swimming freely best upgrade for your reef tank to keep that parasites and algae out
I have a sump and i already have a uv running 24/7
 
First question do you have corals and inverts. If yes then copper can not be used in display tank and the fish would have to be pulled and put in a QT. That’s a lot of fish I would say probably a 30g or 2 20s to avoid aggression, add pvc pipes elbows for shelter. Petco has some cheap tanks. Put a filter and add bacteria to the QT, you can even add some media from your display. You wanna keep a good eye on ammonia and water change when needed or ammonia is detected. Copper powder and a copper tester Hanna can be used. Keep copper at 2.25-2.5. I’d keep them at this level for 3 weeks. After that QT is complete. Once the tank is completed it’s follow period add fish back
What exactly amount is fallow period? And yes i have corals and inverts. I dont live in the usa so petco is not an option and here in Europe tanks 20-30 gallons are quite expensive but i will try to find the money. My only conscern is how i will catch the fish from the display tank
 
Hi! If I were you I would buy a big container (saw you were also in europe, so go to a diy and look for tjose big ones to store equipment), add pvc pipes, heater, flow makers, airstones and maybe initially some rock from your tank together with the fish. Let the system stabilise for 2 weeks and then add copper power to 2.5 ppm.

Your fish will have some stress due to the move, but in the end taking them out of the tank will give them stress anyway. At least they will already be in an environment where the parasites are with lower numbers.

In the meantime run your display fallow for 60 days at 81F. After the 2 weeks of stabilisation in QT and you have seen all fish eating. Take out the rocks of the qt and cure them or get rid of them. (Don’t add them back to DT unless you are 100% sure they are free of any cysts).

For me this is a good balance in acting quickly and increasing the survival rate without risking an ammonia spike in a quickly setup QT. (I have used an inflatable kiddie pool in the past when I had some big fish.
 
What exactly amount is fallow period? And yes i have corals and inverts. I dont live in the usa so petco is not an option and here in Europe tanks 20-30 gallons are quite expensive but i will try to find the money. My only conscern is how i will catch the fish from the display tank
Buy a nyos floating fish trap (available in EU). It costs 55 euros, but it really works. I managed to catch a leopard wrasse in a matter of hours. I was trying to catch him as he was the last fish in my tank. (Wanted to start my fallow period, but took me 3 weeks to catch him). With the floating trap and some food, I got him after 45 minutes of observing. (See pic, I put a clip with nori inside of it and when he went into the trap to eat the nori I released the outside magnet. The trap flips up just by physics and he is unable to get out. I sat on the ground next to my tank so he could not see me.

IMG_0523.jpeg
 
Easy way to catch them is lowing the water down and maybe removing some rocks. Follow period with itch for display is 6 weeks and raising temp to 80.6F/27C if possible
 
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If you really don't have the conditions to isolate all the fish, it's best to turn down the wave maker a bit, raise the temperature to the maximum tolerance limit of the corals, strengthen and keep cleaning the filtration system, keep the UV light on for 24 hours, and you also need to increase the frequency of feeding and feed fish food containing allicin.
 
Hello to all. I have a reef tank that got ick 1-2 months ago. The fish were living happily until now but there is a huge outbreak and everything is going downhill. My stock fishlist is:
2 dartfish
2 clowns
1 small hippo tang
1 large kole tang
1 foxface
1 flame angel
1 watchman goby
5 chromis
1 mandarin goby
1 carpenteri wrasse
1 flame hawkfish
With the research i have done, one way is to let everything die and let the tank sit fallow for 80 days of fish, or catch everything and put it in a hospital-quarantine tank for 80 days in order to treat the fish and eliminate the parasite from the display tank. Please help me to save the fish. What size of hospital tank should i get for these fish? I am so lost
Please post video of entiire tank and fish. Rally Pro and especially kick ich Will NOT work and rarely does even with velvet
If ich, you will need to place fish in Quarantine tank and treat with Coppersafe or Copper Power at therapeutic level 2.25 for a FULL 30 days (do not interrupt this 30 day period) monitored with a Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with any other occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
 
Hello to all. I have a reef tank that got ick 1-2 months ago. The fish were living happily until now but there is a huge outbreak and everything is going downhill. My stock fishlist is:
2 dartfish
2 clowns
1 small hippo tang
1 large kole tang
1 foxface
1 flame angel
1 watchman goby
5 chromis
1 mandarin goby
1 carpenteri wrasse
1 flame hawkfish
With the research i have done, one way is to let everything die and let the tank sit fallow for 80 days of fish, or catch everything and put it in a hospital-quarantine tank for 80 days in order to treat the fish and eliminate the parasite from the display tank. Please help me to save the fish. What size of hospital tank should i get for these fish? I am so lost

I’d like to see a video under white lights to confirm this is ich.

Have you lost any fish yet?

If you have a moderate to heavy ich infection, you won’t be able to manage it in a tank with invertebrates.

Moving the fish into another tank and treating with Coppersafe, chloroquine or hyposalinity will be needed. If you want to try one of those, I can walk you through the steps.

The longest fallow period ever recorded was in a lab Petri dish and it took 76 days. In regular aquariums, 60 days works, as long as the fish going back in after that time have 100% been cured.
 
I havent lost any fish yet, but all of them look kidna bad, i will post a video of the fish later. I really need a walk through the process of the cure and maintenance of the hospital tank. I have learned that there are a lot of ways ti combat ich, copper, hyposalinity, what is the best?
I’d like to see a video under white lights to confirm this is ich.

Have you lost any fish yet?

If you have a moderate to heavy ich infection, you won’t be able to manage it in a tank with invertebrates.

Moving the fish into another tank and treating with Coppersafe, chloroquine or hyposalinity will be needed. If you want to try one of those, I can walk you through the steps.

The longest fallow period ever recorded was in a lab Petri dish and it took 76 days. In regular aquariums, 60 days works, as long as the fish going back in after that time have 100% been cured
 
I havent lost any fish yet, but all of them look kidna bad, i will post a video of the fish later. I really need a walk through the process of the cure and maintenance of the hospital tank. I have learned that there are a lot of ways ti combat ich, copper, hyposalinity, what is the best?

Coppersafe for 30 days in an established hospital tank at 2.25 ppm measured with a Hanna meter is the most effective treatment. Hyposalinity in a fish only tank also works pretty well and also treats for flukes:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/
 
Coppersafe for 30 days in an established hospital tank at 2.25 ppm measured with a Hanna meter is the most effective treatment. Hyposalinity in a fish only tank also works pretty well and also treats for flukes:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/hyposalinity.880546/
I will move the fish to a hospital tank, is it better to do hypposalinity or copper? I have read that copper is hard in the fish, but i wont to follow the most effective way
 
I will move the fish to a hospital tank, is it better to do hypposalinity or copper? I have read that copper is hard in the fish, but i wont to follow the most effective way

Both treatments carry some risk. Coppersafe works best though.
Be sure to keep the ammonia level under control in your hospital tank.
 

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