HELP: LPS infection killing coral

Steve180

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I hope you figure it out soon. Sucks, cause im in the same exact boat as you. My tank is stable with trident and low nutrients, so ive been dosing and having nitrate around 3 and phosphate around .15. But slowly all my lps is dying, it started with couple low end torches, then couple gold hammers and now my gonis. I also had some polyp bail outs and some just melted away. Could it be worms or infections of some sort?

alk 8.5
calcium 520
magnesium 1450
nitrate 3
phosphate .15
salinity 35

also running radion G4 at 75%
 
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Fin Jackson

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I hope you figure it out soon. Sucks, cause im in the same exact boat as you. My tank is stable with trident and low nutrients, so ive been dosing and having nitrate around 3 and phosphate around .15. But slowly all my lps is dying, it started with couple low end torches, then couple gold hammers and now my gonis. I also had some polyp bail outs and some just melted away. Could it be worms or infections of some sort?

alk 8.5
calcium 520
magnesium 1450
nitrate 3
phosphate .15
salinity 35

also running radion G4 at 75%
Went to the LFS a few days back and they recommended to grab a sixline wrasse incase of worms, and carbon aswell just in case there are any toxins from the softies I keep. I have almost the same parameters as you, only CAL a bit lower and MAG a bit higher. My phosphate is also at 0.15 and was told this could also be a possible influence on the bailouts and they suggested getting it below 0.1. Also, a dip in Primer could help slow down any infection and bacterial. Hope this helps!
I currently have 2 of my LPS remaining and lost probably 10-15 frags or colonies.
 

MaxTremors

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Went to the LFS a few days back and they recommended to grab a sixline wrasse incase of worms, and carbon aswell just in case there are any toxins from the softies I keep. I have almost the same parameters as you, only CAL a bit lower and MAG a bit higher. My phosphate is also at 0.15 and was told this could also be a possible influence on the bailouts and they suggested getting it below 0.1. Also, a dip in Primer could help slow down any infection and bacterial. Hope this helps!
I currently have 2 of my LPS remaining and lost probably 10-15 frags or colonies.
IMO, if you are keeping soft corals and stony corals together, you should always be running carbon (can be tricky if you have fish that are predisposed to getting HLLE, but that’s a different topic). I agree that phosphates above 0.1 (and I would even say 0.08) are not good long term, but many people run their tanks much higher than that (though I think most people who have success with levels much higher have mostly corals that have been long established aquarium species, they’re not freshly imported wild-caught specimens, which most LPS are). Slowly lowering your phosphates certainly wouldn’t hurt (I would shoot for 0.03 to 0.08). Nitrates for a mixed reef should generally be kept between 3 and 15ppm.
 
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Fin Jackson

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IMO, if you are keeping soft corals and stony corals together, you should always be running carbon (can be tricky if you have fish that are predisposed to getting HLLE, but that’s a different topic). I agree that phosphates above 0.1 (and I would even say 0.08) are not good long term, but many people run their tanks much higher than that (though I think most people who have success with levels much higher have mostly corals that have been long established aquarium species, they’re not freshly imported wild-caught specimens, which most LPS are). Slowly lowering your phosphates certainly wouldn’t hurt (I would shoot for 0.03 to 0.08). Nitrates for a mixed reef should generally be kept between 3 and 15ppm.
I stopped because my Scopas Tang got HLLE, and I have been doing waterchanges every 2 weeks due to me breaking 2 bones in my shoulder and having surgery 3 weeks later due to shifting bones. It's a struggle as I need to get my brother over to lift the drums up.
 
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Fin Jackson

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Thanks for the recommendations for the nitrates aswell, will increase them slowly while reducing my phosphates.
 

LeftyReefer

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Have you done any recent ICP tests on this tank? None of your parameters seem too out of line.

I'd look for rusty or corroded metals/magnets/heaters, etc.. stray voltage leak, etc...
 

Shirak

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Fin Jackson

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Have you done any recent ICP tests on this tank? None of your parameters seem too out of line.

I'd look for rusty or corroded metals/magnets/heaters, etc.. stray voltage leak, etc...
I didn't even think to check for corroded equipment. Everything's probably due for a clean soon. Sadly, bit my LFS are out of ICP's at the moment so I'm trying to order one online rather then waiting till next Thursday for shipments to come in. I took care of all stray voltage in my tank with new equipment shortly after my Scopas got HLLE.
 
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Fin Jackson

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Do you have access to any antibiotics? In a pinch Chemiclean is a broad spectrum antibiotic erythromycin. Can be used as a dip or tank treatment. I have Ciprofloxacin and it does wonders for corals infected with BJD or some other nasty bacteria.
https://www.reef2reef.com/ams/exper...iotic-treatments-for-brown-jelly-disease.791/
I have a full tub of chemiclean in my cabinet, I'll read the attach thread and probably give the dip a try tommorow as it's 11pm and all the tank lights are off. Would you recommend a full tank treatment? I've never used it but I've heard it makes your skimmer run like mad.
 

Shirak

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I have a full tub of chemiclean in my cabinet, I'll read the attach thread and probably give the dip a try tommorow as it's 11pm and all the tank lights are off. Would you recommend a full tank treatment? I've never used it but I've heard it makes your skimmer run like mad.
I have used it primarily for cyano way back when it was a problem. I prefer to dip corals for bacterial infection vs treat the tank if it's just a few corals. If it's a tank with many corals I would dip the ones showing problems and treat the tank as well to stop the spreading. I think dipping you can use a more concentrated antibiotic treatment which will be more effective. I would not be hesitant to make the dip fairly strong as antibiotics will only target bacteria. While in the dip swoosh the coral around and pipette water into the affected areas to get under loose tissue and blow slime away etc. Give it a good hour or so to work..
 
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Fin Jackson

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Th
I have used it primarily for cyano way back when it was a problem. I prefer to dip corals for bacterial infection vs treat the tank if it's just a few corals. If it's a tank with many corals I would dip the ones showing problems and treat the tank as well to stop the spreading. I think dipping you can use a more concentrated antibiotic treatment which will be more effective. I would not be hesitant to make the dip fairly strong as antibiotics will only target bacteria. While in the dip swoosh the coral around and pipette water into the affected areas to get under loose tissue and blow slime away etc. Give it a good hour or so to work..
Thanks so much. Very helpful and great article you recommended. What antibiotics would you recommend? With the antibiotic from the article (I cannot spell it correctly), where would I grab them from? Are there any antibiotic coral.dips.you would recommend?
 

Shirak

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Not sure what you have available there. In the US we can get Ciprofloxacin from the pet supply stores online without a prescription. Places like Chewy and Aquanestbiotic carry it. That was the antibiotic used in the article. It's usually in the fish med. section. If it's for dogs/cats/people etc it usually requires a prescription here in the states. You might be able to talk with a Vet and see if they will get you some for the fish.
Other hobbyists have used Chemiclean since erythromycin is similar to Cipro and more readily available.
 
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Fin Jackson

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Not sure what you have available there. In the US we can get Ciprofloxacin from the pet supply stores online without a prescription. Places like Chewy and Aquanestbiotic carry it. That was the antibiotic used in the article. It's usually in the fish med. section. If it's for dogs/cats/people etc it usually requires a prescription here in the states. You might be able to talk with a Vet and see if they will get you some for the fish.
Other hobbyists have used Chemiclean since erythromycin is similar to Cipro and more readily available.
Will give chemiclean a go tommorow, how much do I use? I usually use like a plastic container with about 4L of water for a dip.
 

Shirak

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Well good question.. I use about a Liter at most since I am usually dipping small corals and only a few. Maybe a small scoop of the chemiclean..I don't think there is that much risk from a good shot of antibiotics. Especially if the corals are in bad shape. If they are still healthy looking with no signs of infection then maybe a smaller dose. Probably should repeat in a couple days too.

You could try searching the article for chemiclean and see if others have posted dipping and amount used.
 

EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal

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Well good question.. I use about a Liter at most since I am usually dipping small corals and only a few. Maybe a small scoop of the chemiclean..I don't think there is that much risk from a good shot of antibiotics. Especially if the corals are in bad shape. If they are still healthy looking with no signs of infection then maybe a smaller dose. Probably should repeat in a couple days too.

You could try searching the article for chemiclean and see if others have posted dipping and amount used.
Did you say in a previous post to dip in the antibiotics for an hour?
 

Shirak

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Did you say in a previous post to dip in the antibiotics for an hour?
I go an hour or so.. sometimes 2.. or more if I forget. This would be for corals that are in bad shape. I do about 15min in antibiotics for any new Euphyllia that I get shipped along with a dip for pests.
 

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I stopped because my Scopas Tang got HLLE, and I have been doing waterchanges every 2 weeks due to me breaking 2 bones in my shoulder and having surgery 3 weeks later due to shifting bones. It's a struggle as I need to get my brother over to lift the drums up.


What brand/type of carbon were you using. Was it rinsed before hand? Able to tumble?
 

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