Help! Sick Fish!

[abreeann]

We've now resigned that something serious is going on. We acquired our Filefish at the end of May and he seems to be crashing this morning. He didn't eat this morning and is not acting as he normally does. My real concern is that we just lost a Tomini Tang 7/17 rather suddenly and that's after losing a Yellow Tang 7/3. The tangs were introduced 6/27 with no quarantine (massive lesson lesson. No new fish until we have a QT). From posting here, yellow tang had HLLE and a bacterial infection and the Tomini also appeared to end up with both as well. Someone mentioned possible velvet on my Tomini thread so I'm now freaking out.

Our Flame Hawkfish also has lost some of his color. He's still eating but and acting like himself other than letting the wrasses now have first dibs at the food.

In addition to what's above we have an Orangeback Fairy Wrasse, a China Wrasse, Diamondback Goby, 2 clowns, and a blue damsel who all appear good for now.

We are due for a water change today (we do a large change every 3-4wks). The values were all within normal a week ago at testing but are now:
pH: 8
Nitrate: 12-25
Phosphate: 0.5
Alk: 9
Salinity: 1.024

 

[vetteguy53081]

Lets start with cause. . . . .
What is tank temperature and salinity ?
What is ammonia and nitrate reading?
Age of tank?
What test kit(s) are you using

 

[abreeann]

Lets start with cause. . . . .
What is tank temperature and salinity ?
What is ammonia and nitrate reading?
Age of tank?
What test kit(s) are you using

Posted too earlier so just edited it.

Tank is nearly 1yr old.

Temp is steady at 79.
Ammonia 0.25

Test kits:
Hanna check for All, Salifert for phosphate, API for pH and ammonia, NYOS for Nitrate, and a refractor for the salinity.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Looking at skin of flame hawk, there is something bacterial going on. Do good water change and Have an LFS retest your ammonia and nitrate for you as API are rarely on the dime with results.
You may need to treat with Kanamyacin or similar for the skin issues shown in pics

 

[abreeann]

Looking at skin of flame hawk, there is something bacterial going on. Do good water change and Have an LFS retest your ammonia and nitrate for you as API are rarely on the dime with results.
You may need to treat with Kanamyacin or similar for the skin issues shown in pics

Ok. I have some Kanaplex arriving today. Guessing that needs to be given in a QT? And not added to the display tank though correct? Doe the Filefish appear ok?

(Sorry trying to read now while balancing an infant and toddler)

 

[Qasimja]

you have something serious going on i would pull all the fish and treat them with copper and seachem metroplex im not sure if its velvet or brooklynella but those are the only 2 parasites that can kill your fish in a matter of days could also be that they are being attacked by one of those parasites and also getting bacterial infection because of it its gonna be hard to tell

 

[GoingBroke88]

You can mix Kanaplex with Focus to make medicated food. That can actually be fed to fish without pulling them out of the DT, though as suggested, it may be better to pull them out into a QT anyway for better treatment (and to allow for other options that you can't really put into a DT).

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok. I have some Kanaplex arriving today. Guessing that needs to be given in a QT? And not added to the display tank though correct? Doe the Filefish appear ok?

(Sorry trying to read now while balancing an infant and toddler)

Mix with food and use 80% of recommended dosage

 

[abreeann]

Looking at skin of flame hawk, there is something bacterial going on. Do good water change and Have an LFS retest your ammonia and nitrate for you as API are rarely on the dime with results.
You may need to treat with Kanamyacin or similar for the skin issues shown in pics

For a large water change for the immediate, how much should we aim for? Our tank is roughly 180gal (5'x2'x2' with a 40gal breeder for the sump). We usually do a 30gal change but I'm thinking definitely more.

 

[vetteguy53081]

For a large water change for the immediate, how much should we aim for? Our tank is roughly 180gal (5'x2'x2' with a 40gal breeder for the sump). We usually do a 30gal change but I'm thinking definitely more.

20-30 gallons should be sufficient

 

[abreeann]

So follow up, the Filefish passed that evening before we could get the QT sat up. Was able to get Rally from our LFS when I got water for the water change. After a water change, we doses Rally into the DT in hopes that it would take care of the Flame Hawk plus if anyone else was starting to come down with whatever bacterial issue it was. We did Rally for 7 days then waited 3 days as suggested before turning the protein skimmer and UV sterilizer back on (had been off since we dosed the Rally). After the skimmer was back on for a few days we started Kanaplex + Focus mixed with brine shrimp and some Selcon. I mixed up 10 days worth of doses and frozen them. I have another 3 doses to go. Here's how the Hawkfish is looking today.

We did a water change this past Saturday and then added reef flux (fluconazole) to the tank in hopes of killing some nasty bryopsis.

So question, since Hawkfish still has some whitening on its belly, should I continue Kanaplex + Focus for longer? Should we try another antibiotic? I really don't think the Hawkfish will let me catch him easily and I'm trying to make sure the DT is healthy before we remotely consider adding anything else.