Help. Tank is dying

[Fish Fan]

Forgive my mistake; after some cursory research I think amperage is more what I was referring to, strength of the current itself. I'm only a lowly biologist and don't have much familiarity with the proper terminology here. Interesting to consider this as even lightning strike victims generally survive, albeit with lasting disability. Regardless, I agree I don't think it would cause this.

I'm no expert at all. I have a BS in Bio and a a two year in technology, and I don't work in either of those fields lol!

But when I was in school for molecular Bio, a lot of genetic stuff, we used some ridiculously high voltage apparatus to separate nucleic acids (I believe, I'm fuzzy on the details). But the reason this was safe for undergrad bio students at a state school, no less, was because it was very, very low amperage.

 

[Magnapinna]

I’m not an expert on stray voltage but it seems there is an argument for and against it being a possible culprit. My money is on the water though…

I would also think electricity-related deaths would be more immediate, but I could be wrong. Either way this definitely gives the impression of poisoning IMO, or perhaps an oxygen issue, which many poisons can induce or worsen on the cellular level.

 

[Magnapinna]

I wish I had more advice for OP. Unfortunately the use of tap water gives an expansive and uncertain list of possibilities. Relocation to RO/DI matched as closely as possible is the best idea I've got, but reversal is never a guarantee once symptoms show, especially when you don't know exactly what you're dealing with. Chemical contamination of any type is one of those things where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. I'd also be concerned about potential entrapment of contaminants in the rock and/or substrate.

 

[vetteguy53081]

My tank is dying and I don't know why

Last night all my inverts were dead. This morning I found 3 fish dead.

The values of my tank:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10ppm
Saline 1.025
Calc 490
Magnisium 1297
Alkalinity 12
Temp 78

I thought my testers were wrong so I took my water to my LSF and they said the same.

I've done a 30% water change.
Any ideas? Most of the fish are hiding. My clown is on the verge of death. Most of the corals are open but they haven't fully extended.

Can you post a video of remaining fish under white lighting?
Are you using tap water from faucet or RODI water?
How are you testing the water?
What symptoms have you seen such as Gasping at surface, red gills, loss of appetite, swimming in front of flow, scratching, darting, etc?

 

[Magnapinna]

Can you post a video of remaining fish under white lighting?
Are you using tap water from faucet or RODI water?
How are you testing the water?
What symptoms have you seen such as Gasping at surface, red gills, loss of appetite, swimming in front of flow, scratching, darting, etc?

Can't answer the other questions obviously but OP has stated they've always used tap water in their tank.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Can't answer the other questions obviously but OP has stated they've always used tap water in their tank.

I wanted to verify as I thought so

 

[Fish Fan]

I would also think electricity-related deaths would be more immediate, but I could be wrong. Either way this definitely gives the impression of poisoning IMO, or perhaps an oxygen issue, which many poisons can induce or worsen on the cellular level.

Agreed. This has got to be a toxic, external poison, unless the OP actually has elevated ammonia. And with all the die off I can't imagine the ammonia is really zero, but the OP stated that his or her LFS confirmed this.

To the OP, did maybe anyone else in your family spray anything? Cleaners, hairspray, anything??

If this was me, I'd be doing everything I could to get what livestock I had into another tank, with cycled media, of course. I think we should all keep an extra bag of bio media somewhere in our systems that can be used to seed an emergency tank. Use store bought distilled water or buy RODI or saltwater from your LFS; don't use your tap water. Keep in mind, another "tank" could be a plastic bin, a kiddie pool, or several five gallon buckets at this point. If things are as dire as this seems, you may need to take some drastic measures.

If that's not possible, I'd shoot for as close to a 100% water change as is feasible. And again, please, use RODI water, distilled water, or water you purchase from your LFS. There is a very good chance your problem is your tap water, so try to eliminate that unknown.

I'm sorry if I've posted a lot in this thread, but I feel very bad for the OP, and though I am not a reefing expert, I feel really bad for the fish, and want to help. But this is a puzzling scenario.

Any better ideas?? Let's help these feeesh!!

 

[Tripod1404]

OP what were the inverts that died? I am wondering if a toxic invert (like a palythoa) died due to some reason and the toxins released through it is killing the fish.

OP, if you have a spare tank prepare new saltwater. You can even go to the store and buy drinking water to make it if you suspect it is the tap water and transfer all fish.

You may need to do large water changes to control ammonia, but sine the fish are already dying, there isn’t much to lose even with an ammonia spike.

 

[vetteguy53081]

My tank is dying and I don't know why

Last night all my inverts were dead. This morning I found 3 fish dead.

The values of my tank:
Ammonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates 10ppm
Saline 1.025
Calc 490
Magnisium 1297
Alkalinity 12
Temp 78

I thought my testers were wrong so I took my water to my LSF and they said the same.

I've done a 30% water change.
Any ideas? Most of the fish are hiding. My clown is on the verge of death. Most of the corals are open but they haven't fully extended.

Half of your problem may be use of tap water. As for LFS testing water, if youre using API kits and they are also, I encourage you to take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and have them test your ammonia and nitrates and compare readings- then you'll know where your levels truly are at. Dont worry about Nitrite level as its more freshwater specific. Regarding tap water,
Its NOT worth it. With so many sales on RODI units- worth the now small investment.
For starters, the amount of Alk in tap water can potentially double this number easily and affect CA and PH not to mention content of heavy metals, chloramine, pollutants. fluoride and other elements not contained in sea water. tap water also offers no ph buffering and note many areas have copper in their tap water which you do not want in your system. Next will be phosphates in water which will cause further issues.
As you can see - Risk is the issue

 

[VintageReefer]

Agreed 100%. The list of chems in my water report is literally pages (pages) long. Chlorine only because it's cheap, quick, easy to rule out. And chloramines will eat an unfortified RODI for breakfast. I use four carbon blocks, anion, cation, and mixed resin bed in my RODI. I'm still paranoid lol.

I have a carbon media filter on my homes tap water that’s literally the size of a scuba tank.

 

[Fish Fan]

Can you post a video of remaining fish under white lighting?
Are you using tap water from faucet or RODI water?
How are you testing the water?
What symptoms have you seen such as Gasping at surface, red gills, loss of appetite, swimming in front of flow, scratching, darting, etc?

The Calvary has arrived.

The OP posted numbers in their first post, all look in-line, and the OP stated they had their LFS test the water and confirm.

Tap water, which we are all questioning.

OP posted no videos, but did post a couple pics; fish look stressed, and on their sides.

I think many of us think this is some kind of external poison like a cleaning product or something. What do you think?

EDIT: And either way, what should the OP do? Massive water change?

 

[vetteguy53081]

The Calvary has arrived.

The OP posted numbers in their first post, all look in-line, and the OP stated they had their LFS test the water and confirm.

Tap water, which we are all questioning.

OP posted no videos, but did post a couple pics; fish look stressed, and on their sides.

I think many of us think this is some kind of external poison like a cleaning product or something. What do you think?

See my last post. LFS may have used same test kit and Tap water is a concern as is acclimation, lack of quarantine and the quality of fish purchased

 

[Fish Fan]

See my last post. LFS may have used same test kit and Tap water is a concern as is acclimation, lack of quarantine and the quality of fish purchased

Thank you. You may not have seen the EDIT I added to my previous post.

What should the OP do? Maybe a large water change?

 

[Ziggy17]

I’ll just reiterate my earlier suggestion and then stop posting. I don’t want to congest the thread.

Call your LFS, ask them to deliver a 100% water change. Put your fish in a bucket a half hour before he gets there with the water, then Drain your tank empty, including sump. Fill up your whole system with the new purchased water. Go from there. My LFS charges $1 a gallon for water to give you an idea of price. Then, DO NOT use tap water for water changes and get yourself an RODI system going forward.

If you can’t arrange that, call your LFS and have them board your fish until you figure it out.

 

[naterealbig]

Can't answer the other questions obviously but OP has stated they've always used tap water in their tank.

Ah, missed this. Makes source water an even more likely culprit.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Thank you. You may not have seen the EDIT I added to my previous post.

What should the OP do? Maybe a large water change?

RODI water, assure tank is cycled. Quarantine remaining fish and use reliable test kits and do not add fish for at least 30 days but take the time to get the tank and water right

 

[Idech]

I did a water change with lower salt. I noticed my saline was high, 1.028 so I reduced it to 1.026.

Did you clean the sand ? If so, how deep and how much ?

 

[Fish Fan]

RODI water, assure tank is cycled. Quarantine remaining fish and use reliable test kits and do not add fish for at least 30 days but take the time to get the tank and water right

Thank you for your help! This is just what I was thinking.

 

[Mikeltee]

See my last post. LFS may have used same test kit and Tap water is a concern as is acclimation, lack of quarantine and the quality of fish purchased

His Inverts all died too though which is the stumper.

 

[Mikeltee]

Thank you for your help! This is just what I was thinking.

Rodis are inexpensive bro. You should absolutely consider one. I use 20gal rectangle Brutes for the mixing station so not mich room is needed, and it's more than enough for my 130g, 40gal and 60 total gal of QT tanks. When I recently resealed the 130gal, I took a couple of days to fill a bunch of buckets and a 50gal Brute. I use the airwaterice Typhoon extreme 3 and the DI lasts forever. Rodi is an automatic for most of us. It's a gamble if you don't use RODI.