Help working with acrylic: installing a baffle in a running system

TheHarold

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Hello Reef2Reef peeps:

I have a semi-big problem. I have an acrylic sump that needs to be modified with a filter floss/filter cup holder, which entails installing two more baffles. I will be getting these acrylic baffles precut by the manufacturer. However, the sump is currently part of a running 300 gallon setup.

I can probably take it offline for ~24 hours without too big of an effect on the livestock by putting the heater in the display and maintaining flow. However if there is something I can use that cures in a matter of hours, that is MUCH more appealing.

My question is what adhesive/cement I should use, that will have the minimum amount of cure time (due to the filtration being offline while this modification is done)?

Should I use weld on 4? Something thicker? It doesn't have to be particularly strong or pretty.

I am also interested in using a two part five minute epoxy like this. The idea of having it all jigged up and then dripping epoxy on the joint is appealing, especially with a sub-hour cure time. But I could also use an acrylic cement if it doesn't take too long to cure. @cromag27 - what do you think?

TL,DR: Looking for a safe and quick curing acrylic/acrylic bond. Doesn't need to be pretty, just effective.

 

Tangina20

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Hello Reef2Reef peeps:

I have a semi-big problem. I have an acrylic sump that needs to be modified with a filter floss/filter cup holder, which entails installing two more baffles. I will be getting these acrylic baffles precut by the manufacturer. However, the sump is currently part of a running 300 gallon setup.

I can probably take it offline for ~24 hours without too big of an effect on the livestock by putting the heater in the display and maintaining flow. However if there is something I can use that cures in a matter of hours, that is MUCH more appealing.

My question is what adhesive/cement I should use, that will have the minimum amount of cure time (due to the filtration being offline while this modification is done)?

Should I use weld on 4? Something thicker? It doesn't have to be particularly strong or pretty.

I am also interested in using a two part five minute epoxy like this. The idea of having it all jigged up and then dripping epoxy on the joint is appealing, especially with a sub-hour cure time. But I could also use an acrylic cement if it doesn't take too long to cure. @cromag27 - what do you think?

TL,DR: Looking for a safe and quick curing acrylic/acrylic bond. Doesn't need to be pretty, just effective.
Here is a thread with some good info http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1558933
 

cromag27

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the correct answer isn’t one you’re going to like - nothing.

but there may be a workaround. do you have a photo or sketch of the setup?
 
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TheHarold

TheHarold

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the correct answer isn’t one you’re going to like - nothing.

but there may be a workaround. do you have a photo or sketch of the setup?

Well, I could use superglue if necessary... lol .

Here is a photo of the sump when I was plumbing. The problem is that the water level of the sock chamber has to be of a minimum height for the skimmer to work, yet with that high of a water level the socks just overflow rather than have the water go through them. Bad design; the socks are just too low to function. In addition, the sock holders are C shaped and cannot be used with filter cups... Stinks.

ylFKEvY.jpg



So, to fix this, I bought this divider/sockholder that I must install myself. The lower section. It will come in 3 pieces so I can install it. This way, water has to flow through the socks/filter cups.

xxoJgCz.png
 

cromag27

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the spill-over design is much better. even though you didn't buy it from me.... i'll still help you out!! ;)

my method will work, but may not look pretty. and you should remove the sump completely to make your life easier.

you will need strips of acrylic 1/4" x 1/4" that will run vertical and act like gussets. see my attached photo below. mine aren't meant to be water tight like yours, but you should get the gist of it. use scigrip 16 or craftics 33 plastic cement. this stuff is syrupy and very messy to use. be warned that it comes out of the tube fast! cement the gussets on both sides of each vertical panel, so eight gussets total. then coat all joints/gussets with the cement. really coat them. then coat the bottom seams. now the really hard part - leave it to cure for no less than three days, i'd feel safer at five days.

you can also use a rotary tool to remove the old sock holders if you want.


octo fuge01.jpg
 
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TheHarold

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the spill-over design is much better. even though you didn't buy it from me.... i'll still help you out!! ;)

my method will work, but may not look pretty. and you should remove the sump completely to make your life easier.

you will need strips of acrylic 1/4" x 1/4" that will run vertical and act like gussets. see my attached photo below. mine aren't meant to be water tight like yours, but you should get the gist of it. use scigrip 16 or craftics 33 plastic cement. this stuff is syrupy and very messy to use. be warned that it comes out of the tube fast! cement the gussets on both sides of each vertical panel, so eight gussets total. then coat all joints/gussets with the cement. really coat them. then coat the bottom seams. now the really hard part - leave it to cure for no less than three days, i'd feel safer at five days.

you can also use a rotary tool to remove the old sock holders if you want.


octo fuge01.jpg

Thats a good idea, but not exactly what I was looking for. I have made small RO containers with weld on 4 before, I am comfortable with it. Or doing silicon for the seal on top of weld on 4 for the strength. My issue lies in cure time. Not the layout/aesthetics. And 3-5 days is no good.

Weld on with super glue on top? :confused:
 

cromag27

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Thats a good idea, but not exactly what I was looking for. I have made small RO containers with weld on 4 before, I am comfortable with it. Or doing silicon for the seal on top of weld on 4 for the strength. My issue lies in cure time. Not the layout/aesthetics. And 3-5 days is no good.

Weld on with super glue on top? :confused:

nope. superglue will come apart eventually. scrigrip 3 and 4 only if the edges will touch the front and back panels. however, they also need the same time to cure. acrylic solvents take a few days to strengthen up, even weeks after that to reach full bond strength.
 
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TheHarold

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nope. superglue will come apart eventually. scrigrip 3 and 4 only if the edges will touch the front and back panels. however, they also need the same time to cure. acrylic solvents take a few days to strengthen up, even weeks after that to reach full bond strength.

Then two part 5 minute epoxy seems to be the solution. That sticks to plastics and cures in under 10 minutes. I can get a low or high viscosity.
 

cromag27

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Then two part 5 minute epoxy seems to be the solution. That sticks to plastics and cures in under 10 minutes. I can get a low or high viscosity.

may stick to plastic, but no strong bond. could come loose eventually, and don’t expect water right seals. but that may not be a huge issue in this case.
 

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