HELP!!!
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not enough info must see the tank pics, those are API readings and could be off 100%
only the ammonia reading of that group above matters for the purposes of tank safety. nitrite doesn't even count at all, and nitrate is an algae issue it wont harm your tank, and also didn't jump that much in one day those are all mis tests via API
the reason we disregard nitrite and nitrate in tank safety threads is because its better to only deal with one misreading category (ammonia) adding two more creates a seemingly out of control situation that rarely is. with a full tank picture and a few points of detail discussed, we can assess ammonia highly accurately using no tests. your other two params do not matter regarding tank safety/emergency. going off the title, im thinking you have those measures from a full running nano
with the full tank shot, we will easily see animals that would be dead if you had that much free ammonia all day all nite long...and rock cycle status we can see too (coralline, pods, worms, crabs snails etc)
only the ammonia reading of that group above matters for the purposes of tank safety. nitrite doesn't even count at all, and nitrate is an algae issue it wont harm your tank, and also didn't jump that much in one day those are all mis tests via API
the reason we disregard nitrite and nitrate in tank safety threads is because its better to only deal with one misreading category (ammonia) adding two more creates a seemingly out of control situation that rarely is. with a full tank picture and a few points of detail discussed, we can assess ammonia highly accurately using no tests. your other two params do not matter regarding tank safety/emergency. going off the title, im thinking you have those measures from a full running nano
with the full tank shot, we will easily see animals that would be dead if you had that much free ammonia all day all nite long...and rock cycle status we can see too (coralline, pods, worms, crabs snails etc)
Last edited:
powers2001
started reefing 1999
You need to test again to check accuracy. If your results aren't very close to the same after two tests within a few minutes, something is wrong with your testing methods.
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samdizshiz
Active Member
its the first tank cycle there is no algae in the tank i just want to make sure that these reading are correct cuz they seemed so...off i just have 2 puffers and dry rock no coral i used sechem stability its been up for about 4 months
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samdizshiz
Active Member
not enough info must see the tank pics, those are API readings and could be off 100%
only the ammonia reading of that group above matters for the purposes of tank safety. nitrite doesn't even count at all, and nitrate is an algae issue it wont harm your tank, and also didn't jump that much in one day those are all mis tests via API
the reason we disregard nitrite and nitrate in tank safety threads is because its better to only deal with one misreading category (ammonia) adding two more creates a seemingly out of control situation that rarely is. with a full tank picture and a few points of detail discussed, we can assess ammonia highly accurately using no tests. your other two params do not matter regarding tank safety/emergency. going off the title, im thinking you have those measures from a full running nano
with the full tank shot, we will easily see animals that would be dead if you had that much free ammonia all day all nite long...and rock cycle status we can see too (coralline, pods, worms, crabs snails etc)
can u please explain all of this becuse you just blew my mind what do u mean by nitrate and nitrite dont matter i did a 50% water change and ill test and see what is still going on ill put a pic up when i get back home in 20 min
http://reef2reef.com/threads/new-ta...d-cocktail-shrimp-live-rock-no-shrimp.214618/
here we go, only two pages it was the most concise I could state it. that is a complete thread on cycling and your issues are being caused by whats stated in the first paragraph
if you have dosed meds, that can alter things and is mentioned too. the reasons we say not to consider nitrite will ease concern~
here we go, only two pages it was the most concise I could state it. that is a complete thread on cycling and your issues are being caused by whats stated in the first paragraph
if you have dosed meds, that can alter things and is mentioned too. the reasons we say not to consider nitrite will ease concern~
the pertinent part to your thread is that if you started with group A rocks, theres a specific test to see when they are ready for fish and that might have been rushed. adding the bio spira is one portion of the build up, the digestion test tells if your tank is fish ready.
you might have indeed jumped and added fish too fast, but that's been 4 mos by then group a rocks will cycle anyway. for sure don't make any changes based on api, get a salifert ammonia kit if you are dealing in group a rocks and never completed the digestion test to know if the start time was correct.
you might have indeed jumped and added fish too fast, but that's been 4 mos by then group a rocks will cycle anyway. for sure don't make any changes based on api, get a salifert ammonia kit if you are dealing in group a rocks and never completed the digestion test to know if the start time was correct.
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samdizshiz
Active Member
i didnt add rock till about 5 days ago i started all this based on info from a fish store so i kinda messed up i put fish in first thing so right now i dont even have any bacteria on rock just on my filter media and gravel so i have to puffers brand new rock and i cycling aquarium kinda
powers2001
started reefing 1999
What is the TDS of your water, are you using RODI or water straight out of the tap?
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samdizshiz
Active Member
from what I gather the entire cycle was skipped but not by planning using cured substrates
where Tahoe was leading
nice call ma'am
so the way to fix this is to remove your fish and give em back, and do the cycle from that thread for group a rocks. since none of the surfaces from the picture have clear aging, and in fact appear to be fully not cycled, the cycle should simply be verified before you add bioload (fish)
those instant cyclers you buy may or may not work depending on how fast we load the tanks with waste producers. there is only one way to get a hold of ammonia in these situations
group a rocks, complete the cycle steps shown and the digestion test shown before adding fish.
group b rocks, use non api ammonia test kit to make sure they aren't leaking ammonia, then add fish.
Your rocks are group A, so the direction is clear. you can proceed with no change and hope they make it, or be certain and do the shown steps. we do not know what your levels are since this is api ammonia, but the mere time frames and known bioload and lack of digestion test indicates a quick start. however much bac has built up in the 4 mos its been underwater will register on that digestion test.
**this stuff is indeed complex when online peeps tell you one think, in bulk, and LFS sells you something totally opposite
where Tahoe was leading
nice call ma'am
so the way to fix this is to remove your fish and give em back, and do the cycle from that thread for group a rocks. since none of the surfaces from the picture have clear aging, and in fact appear to be fully not cycled, the cycle should simply be verified before you add bioload (fish)
those instant cyclers you buy may or may not work depending on how fast we load the tanks with waste producers. there is only one way to get a hold of ammonia in these situations
group a rocks, complete the cycle steps shown and the digestion test shown before adding fish.
group b rocks, use non api ammonia test kit to make sure they aren't leaking ammonia, then add fish.
Your rocks are group A, so the direction is clear. you can proceed with no change and hope they make it, or be certain and do the shown steps. we do not know what your levels are since this is api ammonia, but the mere time frames and known bioload and lack of digestion test indicates a quick start. however much bac has built up in the 4 mos its been underwater will register on that digestion test.
**this stuff is indeed complex when online peeps tell you one think, in bulk, and LFS sells you something totally opposite
Last edited:
powers2001
started reefing 1999
Because tap water can be full of chloramines which are 1/2 ammonia.
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samdizshiz
Active Member
powers2001
started reefing 1999
Depending on the type of kit but Red Sea brand is just as good and they don't skimp on the details.
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