High ammonia - Any point in using AmGuard?

[erm0715]

I had dino's over a month ago that slowly wiped out everything in the tank except a YWG. At this point, that's all that's in there. After the Dino's were gone, I checked parameters and NH3 was ~0.07 (this is when the true die-off began though after talking on here the consensus was that that level of NH3 wasn't enough for the die-off but likely the Dino toxins). I decided to let the tank sit after removing all dead animals that I could get to. Forward 3 weeks and GHA has taken hold. I'd like to add a CUC, manually remove and start over slowly with CUC and a blenny that will work on the GHA. I tested today and NH3 is now doubled at 0.15 NH3, NO2 0, NO4 ~5-10ppm.

Is there any merit to using AmGuard for this + water changes to get a CUC in there?

 

[Dan_P]

I had dino's over a month ago that slowly wiped out everything in the tank except a YWG. At this point, that's all that's in there. After the Dino's were gone, I checked parameters and NH3 was ~0.07 (this is when the true die-off began though after talking on here the consensus was that that level of NH3 wasn't enough for the die-off but likely the Dino toxins). I decided to let the tank sit after removing all dead animals that I could get to. Forward 3 weeks and GHA has taken hold. I'd like to add a CUC, manually remove and start over slowly with CUC and a blenny that will work on the GHA. I tested today and NH3 is now doubled at 0.15 NH3, NO2 0, NO4 ~5-10ppm.

Is there any merit to using AmGuard for this + water changes to get a CUC in there?

How are you measuring ammonia?

 

[erm0715]

Api test kit Then converting to NH3

 

[Sebastiancrab]

Suggest you purchase a better test kit. API is not always reliable.

 

[Dan_P]

Ammonia is too high to put anything in the aquarium.

I had dino's over a month ago that slowly wiped out everything in the tank except a YWG. At this point, that's all that's in there. After the Dino's were gone, I checked parameters and NH3 was ~0.07 (this is when the true die-off began though after talking on here the consensus was that that level of NH3 wasn't enough for the die-off but likely the Dino toxins). I decided to let the tank sit after removing all dead animals that I could get to. Forward 3 weeks and GHA has taken hold. I'd like to add a CUC, manually remove and start over slowly with CUC and a blenny that will work on the GHA. I tested today and NH3 is now doubled at 0.15 NH3, NO2 0, NO4 ~5-10ppm.

Is there any merit to using AmGuard for this + water changes to get a CUC in there?

Free ammonia is too high to put any livestock into the aquarium. Ammonia detoxifiers are likely to be useless. To double check your API test measurements, buy a Seachem ammonia monitor. If the ammonia monitor reading is close to your calculated free ammonia, your aquarium has an unusual problem. Solve that before stocking would be prudent.

 

[Garf]

I had dino's over a month ago that slowly wiped out everything in the tank except a YWG. At this point, that's all that's in there. After the Dino's were gone, I checked parameters and NH3 was ~0.07 (this is when the true die-off began though after talking on here the consensus was that that level of NH3 wasn't enough for the die-off but likely the Dino toxins). I decided to let the tank sit after removing all dead animals that I could get to. Forward 3 weeks and GHA has taken hold. I'd like to add a CUC, manually remove and start over slowly with CUC and a blenny that will work on the GHA. I tested today and NH3 is now doubled at 0.15 NH3, NO2 0, NO4 ~5-10ppm.

Is there any merit to using AmGuard for this + water changes to get a CUC in there?

How did you get rid of the Dino’s?

 

[erm0715]

How did you get rid of the Dino’s?

The short end of it was I zeroed out refreshing GFO (tank isn't that old and watched a video on ways to get through ugly phase quicker; too small for tangs so GFO was recommended; already had a skimmer running due to amount of livestock in tank) so that was my bad.

I scrubbed the rocks about a day or two before I realized Dino's and it seemed to explode. I had monti's bleach in under 12hrs. Then came to the conclusion dino's.

I bumped temp up ~0.5deg/day up to around 81 or so before it was better. Reduced hours of light. Scrubbed rock and siphoned into filter sock. Added UV sterilizer to DT. Turned off skimmer, turned off GFO. Fed more. Eventually added bacteria in a bottle. It didn't take terribly long to resolve but the aftereffects nuked near everything in there save for the YWG. Since then I've fed and watched most livestock die, removed everything I could and figured eventually the beneficial bacteria would get it back to a good spot.

 

[erm0715]

Ammonia is too high to put anything in the aquarium.

Free ammonia is too high to put any livestock into the aquarium. Ammonia detoxifiers are likely to be useless. To double check your API test measurements, buy a Seachem ammonia monitor. If the ammonia monitor reading is close to your calculated free ammonia, your aquarium has an unusual problem. Solve that before stocking would be prudent.

I don't necessarily dispute the API test, just would not have suspected that much. I wouldn't be surprised to find some ammonia after that die off though *most* of the die off occured 3 weeks ago and once all CUC was gone there was nothing to scavenge and the only thing in there alive is a YWG that somehow tolerated everything. I removed every fish that didn't make it save for a 6 Line that wedged in a rockwork cave that I cannot reach almost 2 weeks ago and I'm sure there are snails wedged under things that didn't make it. With nothing to break that down I'm not terribly surprised by some ammonia. I guess where I'm going is i have nothing to scavenge or breakdown anything I can't find. I know water changes will reduce the NH3 but didn't know if AmGuard or an ammolock would be beneficial in conjuntion with water changes to get a clean up crew in there. I was aiming for a cleanup crew to scavenge anything I can't find + work on GHA that has taken over post dino's.

*edit* wouldn't or shouldn't i see a corresponding jump in NO4 with those levels of NH3 if the beneficial bacteria are breaking it down?

 

[Dom]

I don't think this tank is worth salvaging. If it were my tank, I'd do a complete break down and start from scratch.

 

[Garf]

I don't think this tank is worth salvaging. If it were my tank, I'd do a complete break down and start from scratch.

Unfortunately that may be the quickest and safest option. Get the dead out as a minimum.

 

[erm0715]

I don't think this tank is worth salvaging. If it were my tank, I'd do a complete break down and start from scratch.

May be right...not really much in there anyway.

 

[Dom]

May be right...not really much in there anyway.

I would set up a small tank to house whatever remains.

 

[brandon429]

First time in recorded history an api post was relayed in nh3

There's not one other documented in all of humanity, you get three different badges for this

Honestly, it's rare. That's following directions spot on though

I don't believe you can use that kit to discern hundredths ppm switch. You need digital for that

Also, please post a full tank shot picture, the dominant requirement for all cycle troubleshoots.

If you post a pic of an aged stack of rocks, in the middle of a reef tank, and you didn't dose antibiotics here, then I change my mind on the last guy I'd said had the best false stuck cycle post in 2022.

Updated cycling science only wants to see your tank pic we already have the age of the setup in the opening post (the tank was beyond the original cycle)

With a tank pic we will be able to tell if you stopped or slowed in processing ammonia.

It's not possible for a reef tank to slow on processing ammonia, so I can't wait to see these tank pics. Never been documented in the hobby...a cycle that stops months into the game. Lots of claims though

From api...

 

[brandon429]

Quick way to increase bacteria population / remove Ammonia

Quick synopsis - Fought Dinos recently that took over tank and destroyed 95% of the coral frags I had. I reduced lights, increased temp, turned off GFO, turned off Skimmer, added UV sterilizer to DT, scrubbed and syphoned from DT to sump filter sock (cleaned sock after). Dinos seem to be at...

www.reef2reef.com

You were misadvised in that thread ammonia did not kill your fish and it's not a factor now, the rocks are cycled, we can see/timing of the two threads

(your rocks show all biomarkers we use in visual cycling posts; your tank is older than the ammonia drop line on a cycling chart/you added bottle bac able to cycle in 1 day, we're a month+ past that date, you dont have an ammonia issue unless you have dead fish piled up in the rocks)


post your api test kit reading along with the full tank shot here pls. we want to see if your worst case api reading matches all others on the web for its typical variation

 

[brandon429]

in threads where we study cycling differently than it's being applied for you, we factor what your pics show over api.

good job on relaying as nh3...wasn't joking, never saw anyone do that before.

You're having to eyeball estimates in a tenth ppm nh3 variation off a color chart and test tube; that's beyond the scope of that kit even when used correctly. In no way does that mean your cycle is broken, but I realize everyone in the thread above sure agreed it was.

you would need to have a digital ammonia meter reading set + fish symptoms not directly related to skipping disease preps in order for you to have the first broken cycle seen in reefing. so far, it's always just non digital kits and symptoms we can control by implementing what Jay does in the disease forum

**lots of dinos tanks have caused fish kills by choosing to kill + rot the dinos in the tank.

that does not kill a biofilter...it clogs one, physically, whereas cleaning that rot out will help have less chemical soup, you can easily kill fish in a small tank by growing a bunch of dinos, killing them, and the mixed rot is a poison event.

none of that is a broken cycle.