H
heres my recommend, it’s fully opposite from post 51
if you add vibrant you’ll turn that eutrophic reef into a chemical soup and it will circulate rotting mass in the water making things filthy. Do not blend my rip clean with any method or customize it in any way. Wait until you are done taking guesses with your tank to do my method so you can be thorough, don’t customize it or blend it with anything at all.
if you want to rip clean, then use vibrant as a growback prevention you can. All the mass will be removed beforehand and there’s no souping
vibrant has zero pattern documentations for chrysophytes, so yours will be a guinea pig if you choose it.
here’s three posts before your consider.
post one, vibrant killing twenty reefs.
post two are the jobs you want to copy.
post three, six years of rip cleans and no fails. Must study this before you begin, to save from any customizations that can kill your setup.
vibrant is twenty bucks and three weeks wait. Rip clean is clean in 24 hours and the cost is all new water made up to match the temp and salinity of the old.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/vibrant-killing-corals.656056/page-7#post-8284273
these are the two best rip cleans on file. Copy these to a T and attack that sandbed like we did. Rocks are washed off in old tank water, then spray peroxide on the cleaned rocks, set back in on pure rinsed sand (in tap water, last rinse is RO water) and all new saltwater. Thats a rip clean. do not hesitantly or partially rinse sand, attack it like these two.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/algae-identification.707457/
lastly, six years worth, not one kill. Totally happy reefs.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/the-official-sand-rinse-thread-aka-one-against-many.230281/page-38
when people ask if rinsing sand in tap water causes a cycle, I can infer our examples werent factored. It’s about 400 examples with follow up on file, some two years later.
when your fish and coral is held in clean water matching temp and salinity of the old water in a holding bucket or container, and you’ve taken rocks out for cleaning, use a knife not a brush to score the growths off like a dentist does plaque, totally clean, swished in saltwater to cast off growths. When clean, spray with peroxide (doesnt cause a cycle) and then they’re ready for use. We wouldn’t use a brush, use a knife, a brush will pestle the growths back down into crevices. No customizing
rocks only get saltwater contact and a light peroxide spray, so they don’t recycle.
the sandbed gets literally attacked back to snow globe clean, it’s bacteria do not matter in *anyones* reef only live rocks matter, thats why we use tap water then ro on sand, so you never run out of rinsing until it’s perfectly clear. Notice in our six year thread there are no ammonia tests, you don’t need to own one. We can tell you what your ammonia is at every interval in this thread. you don’t need to test for ammonia after a cycle in any reef tank, it can’t rise back up and any test that says otherwise is simply wrong.
Google has a million examples of false reads like yours have done. You can also see how cycle callers are not using an objective measure, their calls range from backing the tests to totally hating them, so you aren’t getting anything accurate from their collective guesses on the matter. Work threads, other people’s reefs + updates, are where we get good info
thread highlights:
-we ramp down lighting for five days after the clean, written in post one of the sand rinse thread.
-nobody put back a cloudy tank whatsoever, the whole thread is examples of being thorough, not scared about bacteria. The whole thread we are in now was an example of restoring trust in bacteria, not doubt, its why we didn’t kill 400 reefs above. Nobody had .25 ammonia above just the same.
-you don’t see reassembled tanks with crud or blackened growths in the corners still. These tanks are cleaned to the bone. Live rocks handled in saltwater is why, thats all the bacteria you need.
-use new water matching temp and salinity of the old. If you use new sand, vs old, you still pre rinse just the same, no customizing.
-even though I know dip strips, api, or the big upgrade to red sea ammonia will be ran still after the rip clean, when your tank is acting normal and looking great, the readings didn’t get correct all of a sudden. The rules for ammonia control have not been changed one iota in this thread, or the 400 above looking great. I kicked out testing from the thread because it causes doubt and wrecks tanks, we needed the opposite momentum.
b
