That’s perfect. We need to be able to demonstrate what it reads against what we know post-cycle reefs run at, always. If it’s not zero still it will help to see, it will help benchmark the test kit for accuracy
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Even when shown your whole thread, and that ammonia is going to claim stuck above. 5 until the end of time, some are never going to disbelieve a test kit.
It hurts too much. It's the loss of trust in our massive investments
Ability to know a parameter was one thing not supposed to be an approximate in reefing, it was supposed to be accurate. It's not.
When you get time read this article from NOAA
Top marine scientists we know of, right there, discussing false test reads and how they account for this in their complex experiments. They accounted by adhering to updated cycling rules that these test kits aren't reliable, when ran in the common manner. They skipped using them, if I'm not misreading.
You updating with that pic helped others to see truth very well, good job.
The tests misread, it's said by our top crew independent from forums right above.
Your single point reading is not accurate, but if that ever pegs dark green as a *change* then it is, and an animal has die
The weird thing is that I haven’t had anything die off without me seeing the signs of imminent death causing me to take those 2 turbo snails out and gave them a quick end so they wouldn’t die slowly suffering. but that was several months back when I had a problem with brass fittings used on my tank. I was beginning to suspect it was a nassarius snail that died but yesterday I saw all 3 that I have and my 2 turbos are doing well. I’ve also noticed with diligent turkey baster blastings followed by filter floss changes this are starting to look better not as much is growing back as quickly anymore. Jus need to get in it with the gravel vac and suck up all the clumps mixed with grains of sand. Any info on how to help get rid of the chrysophytes? I’m waiting on a bottle of vibrant from brs should I jus wait for that to come in to use or is there something else I could be doing in the mean time?H
Even when shown your whole thread, and that ammonia is going to claim stuck above. 5 until the end of time, some are never going to disbelieve a test kit.
It hurts too much. It's the loss of trust in our massive investments
Ability to know a parameter was one thing not supposed to be an approximate in reefing, it was supposed to be accurate. It's not.
When you get time read this article from NOAA
Top marine scientists we know of, right there, discussing false test reads and how they account for this in their complex experiments. They accounted by adhering to updated cycling rules that these test kits aren't reliable, when ran in the common manner. They skipped using them, if I'm not misreading.
You updating with that pic helped others to see truth very well, good job.
The tests misread, it's said by our top crew independent from forums right above.
Your single point reading is not accurate, but if that ever pegs dark green as a *change* then it is, and an animal has died.
Huckilt I just wanted to re-iterate a couple of things after reviewing the post.
What I see you are battling are Chrysophytes. There's one item I know that will beat it and that's Vibrant. I literally watched this video earlier today while doing research for you and it's astounding. Check it out:
I want to talk about your setup for a moment. There are many things I think we should change because I want your tank to get down to a baseline. I feel that the root of the problem is that your tank is nutrient deprived. I am going to outline a course of action that's exactly what I would do before going through a rip clean. I do not think you have an ammonia issue and I think it's a false positive. Your livestock would be deadstock by now.
1. Completely stop dosing any and all products
2. Remove 1/4 of your bioballs every 2 weeks. Do not add them back into the tank
3. Remove all of the neocarbonit- z
4. Turn off the algae scrubber. Do not use it
5. Have your tank run on the bare necessities. Heater, water pumps, skimmer, lighting. Do not use any extra filter media like GFO.
6. Do not do water changes as often as you do, or for as how much you're doing. Instead, change out 10% every 2 weeks instead. 2.5 gallons every 2 weeks please.
7. Take a hose and create a continuous siphon loop. One end draining water and the other end pouring it back into your sump. When doing this, add a filter sock to the draining end of it and then suck out all of the chrysophytes. This will remove them but keep the water going. You can also do this when you do a water change if you don't wanna deal with the filter sock and just toss what you pull out.
8. Change your feeding habits and increase your bioload. More fish = more nutrients in your tank. More nutrients come from the poop, and the increased feedings, alongside a larger variety of foods like frozen, flake, and pellet.
Keep this up for 2 months and see if there's an improvement. If not, then consider Vibrant.
Huckilt I just wanted to re-iterate a couple of things after reviewing the post.
What I see you are battling are Chrysophytes. There's one item I know that will beat it and that's Vibrant. I literally watched this video earlier today while doing research for you and it's astounding. Check it out:
I want to talk about your setup for a moment. There are many things I think we should change because I want your tank to get down to a baseline. I feel that the root of the problem is that your tank is nutrient deprived. I am going to outline a course of action that's exactly what I would do before going through a rip clean. I do not think you have an ammonia issue and I think it's a false positive. Your livestock would be deadstock by now.
1. Completely stop dosing any and all products
2. Remove 1/4 of your bioballs every 2 weeks. Do not add them back into the tank
3. Remove all of the neocarbonit- z
4. Turn off the algae scrubber. Do not use it
5. Have your tank run on the bare necessities. Heater, water pumps, skimmer, lighting. Do not use any extra filter media like GFO.
6. Do not do water changes as often as you do, or for as how much you're doing. Instead, change out 10% every 2 weeks instead. 2.5 gallons every 2 weeks please.
7. Take a hose and create a continuous siphon loop. One end draining water and the other end pouring it back into your sump. When doing this, add a filter sock to the draining end of it and then suck out all of the chrysophytes. This will remove them but keep the water going. You can also do this when you do a water change if you don't wanna deal with the filter sock and just toss what you pull out.
8. Change your feeding habits and increase your bioload. More fish = more nutrients in your tank. More nutrients come from the poop, and the increased feedings, alongside a larger variety of foods like frozen, flake, and pellet.
Keep this up for 2 months and see if there's an improvement. If not, then consider Vibrant.
The brs video is the reason I was considering vibrant I find it awesome the way they do their tank trails and different tests to help the hobby grow with better knowledge that’s coming from a scientific standpoint not just it’s happening to me and it happened to them so I’ll do exactly what that person did. There’s a lot of variables that could be way different from one tank to the next. I love watching brs videos half the reason I want to get a saltwater YouTube channel going but I kinda been waiting to get my new tank pieces all together so I can start the channel with the start of a new build and show everyone the progression from week to week or maybe every other day or something.