Hiring an electrian- what project specifics will they need?

SallyWho

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One small step at a time, I'm getting closer to actually getting a tank! My floors are getting reinforced next month, and now it's time to start thinking about wiring. I know I'll need GFCI outlets for around the tank and water mixing station, and they're going on independent circuits so I don't kill my tank every time I turn on my microwave, but are there any specific things I need to consider that haven't even crossed my mind yet? If you had to adjust your wiring and outlets for your build, what do you wish you'd known first or done differently? Since they're going to be kind of behind the tank, should I have the outlets a little higher off the floor than standard height, to reduce risk of water splashing on them, and to reduce the stretch on the lighting power cords? Should they NOT be behind the tank at all, but off to the side? How do you hide all the wires, then? Do the indoor outlets need those weather-proof covers on them? What should I make sure to tell the electrician when he/she arrives? Any tips/advice/insights you could offer are much appreciated! Thanks!
 

Tsunamimike

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I'm a licensed electrician as well as several others I have seen on this forum, pm me with any questions you might have. But basically tell them what your looking to power with future expansion in mind, as well as accessibility. A dedicated circuit is a wise idea, but maybe 2 circuits since they will already have to run 1 a second is not much more difficult to add into the plan and shouldn't cost much more (maybe you run a chiller or something that pulls more amps on start up, or maybe you will in the future. Or shoot even decide to put a fridge next to your tank so you can enjoy a cold beer while watching your fish haha)
 
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SallyWho

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I'm a licensed electrician as well as several others I have seen on this forum, pm me with any questions you might have. But basically tell them what your looking to power with future expansion in mind, as well as accessibility. A dedicated circuit is a wise idea, but maybe 2 circuits since they will already have to run 1 a second is not much more difficult to add into the plan and shouldn't cost much more (maybe you run a chiller or something that pulls more amps on start up, or maybe you will in the future. Or shoot even decide to put a fridge next to your tank so you can enjoy a cold beer while watching your fish haha)
Hahaha! My house is a bit on the small side, so there wouldn't be room for a minifridge near the tank! But perhaps a mini-freezer for frozen foods wouldn't go amiss in the garage....

If I'm planning to *eventually* get a whole-home generator (those suckers are expensive!), is there anything I should have him/her do differently with this basic wiring job to make the generator installation easier down the road? I know I've got room for a few new circuits in my breaker box, but I don't know if they need to be wired differently if they're going to be prioritized by a generator later. Thanks!
 

Tsunamimike

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You could mention the generator to the electrician, but when they install it he will put in a transfer switch and have to do some extra wiring anyways to everything you want powered by the generator... where are you located if you don't mind me asking
 

AlexG

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A few things to consider is the number of outlets you want installed and where they would be located. I located all of mine higher mostly above the tank(s) waterline or the ceiling so that water cannot be easily spilled onto the outlets. I also have some weather proof covers on some of the outlets. Since the area behind my tank is in its own room I was not concerned with wires but a canopy or a decorative panel could be used to hide the wires. I would get a minimum of 2 circuits installed 15-20A with DFCI protection. DFCI acts as both a GFCI & AFCI protection. The use of a generator can be accomplished a couple of ways either via an automatic transfer system to a whole house generator or a manual generator transfer switch could be installed that feeds some select breakers during an emergency. I went with a manual transfer switch with a manual start propane generator as power outages are not frequent enough to justify the cost of a whole house generator system. I would make sure the electrician walks through their plan to meet your needs and get multiple bids for the job.
 

5altkreep

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+1 for adding an additional circuit. You can put your return pump on one, and rest of flow on the other. If one happens to trip while your gone, you'll still have movement. Same with heat. Good luck on your build!
 

Grey Guy

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If I had 2 new outlets installed, I would have 2 20A circuits on GFCI's above and outside the tank, one on each side. There are just as many ways to make wires look good is there are ways to get circuits wet.
 

Rufus’ goofs

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If you decide not to get a whole home generator, but still want one for the tank in the more immediate future, I'd look at putting your circuits you want to run on a master switch.

It's worth considering if nothing else.

I personally would set it up with 2 20A circuits on the outside and above, just as @Grey Guy suggested.
Water has a way of getting where you don't want it to be. Also, it would make the creation of driploops very easy.
 
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SallyWho

SallyWho

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All good suggestions, guys, thanks! I'll ask the electricians about master switches and DFCI outlets. I plan on using an Apex- would having two outlets, one on either side of the tank- be too much of a spread to get everything plugged in to where it needs to be? Would I need to get two different EB8s (or 32s, depending on which version of Apex I end up with)? I was planning on putting the outlets a little higher up, but within a foot of each other.
 

Grey Guy

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As I was saying, there are long cables and extensions available to connect up the apex bus. You can plug the power bars anywhere and just jump from one unit to the next with there USB type cables. Neptune says not to use regular USB cables.
 

Grey Guy

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You can plug in the power bars anywhere and run a data cable between each unit. The USB like cables can be any length you want.
 
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SallyWho

SallyWho

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You can plug in the power bars anywhere and run a data cable between each unit. The USB like cables can be any length you want.
Huh. I didn't know that tidbit. Thanks! Is it weird that I've been lurking this website and studying reef tanks for years so I'm fairly familiar with many aspects of them, but when it comes to practical application I'm ignorant as heck? :D Since I haven't really seen many reef tanks in real life, other than ones in restaurants or LFSs, I don't have a real good grip on what all this stuff really looks like in real life! I've never had a chance to study how a tank is plumbed, or how water flows through baffles in a sump, or how to hang the ballasts for lights. There's only so much one can learn on YouTube before hands-on learning is required. So I didn't know there were long cables for the Apex, and I have no clue how to empty a skimmer cup, and I didn't know until recently that zoas are really, really small! LOL!
 

Rakie

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Man, I really wish I could get someone down to do this kinda stuff at my house. We have some old electrical in this house, I need a few wall sockets replaced and wouldn't mind a dedicated wall socket for my tank -- and it's only a 45g cube.

Def run a separate line if you can.
 

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