How are my parameters looking?

Jekyl

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I use the Milwaukee refractometer. So off the rock was from the fish store that was live rock that was in water and some was dry rock that I got online. The pic is the stuff that is what makes up most of the rock in the tank.
This is still dry rock. Live rock is rock that came from an established tank or the ocean.

Life rock is just colored dry rock.

Edit: Missed part of that post. How much live rock vs dry rock did you use? How established was it? Did it come with coraline on it?
 
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This is still dry rock. Live rock is rock that came from an established tank or the ocean.

Life rock is just colored dry rock.
Oh well I had maybe 3 pieces of live rock that I got from the fish store.
 
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Edited my post. However the dry rock will still go through the ugly phase of mentioned before.
Idk if there was coraline on it but it was for a tank in the fish store. Only 3 pieces not that much. How do I bring my nitrates up for the corals?
 

Jekyl

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Idk if there was coraline on it but it was for a tank in the fish store. Only 3 pieces not that much. How do I bring my nitrates up for the corals?
Skip a water change and get your phosphate measurement.
 

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You can get products like Nitro from brightwell Aquatics and dose nitrates . But you really need to also get your phosphates checked ASAP
 
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You can get products like Nitro from brightwell Aquatics and dose nitrates . But you really need to also get your phosphates checked ASAP
Why are phosphates a big deal?
 

MnFish1

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Tank is 3 months old. Wondering how my parameters are looking. Are they good enough to get some difficult/hard to keep corals?

Parameters:
Nitrate - 0.0ppm
Salinity - 1.023
Calcium - 434ppm
Alkalinity - 8.7dKH
Magnesium - 1280ppm

Fish:
2 clownfish
4 Kupang Damsels
2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

Corals:
1 Leather
1 Duncan
1Frogspawn
How big is the tank? I would say your salinity is a little low (1.025-1.026 would be better. The nitrate of 0 may be an issue - and you didn't post your phosphate. If you're other corals, etc are doing well, you seem to be on the right track!
 
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How big is the tank? I would say your salinity is a little low (1.025-1.026 would be better. The nitrate of 0 may be an issue - and you didn't post your phosphate. If you're other corals, etc are doing well, you seem to be on the right track!
Tank is 90 gallons. Don’t have a phosphate test kit. But all 3 corals look good.
 
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If your phosphates are zero like your nitrates you you stand a really good chance of getting Dino’s which is a pain in the corals . If they are too high can cause issues as well
Ok so I am going to buy a phosphate test kit. Witch Hanna checker is better phosphate low range or ultra low? I went to my local fish store the other day to have them test my phosphate and they said phosphate was zero. How can I increase phosphate?
 

MnFish1

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Just read some of the other posts - I have a slight disagreement with the absolute 'need' to have a nitrate of x. Many tanks do fine with nitrates of 0 or very low. I also somewhat disagree that every tank 'has to go through the uglies'. IMHO - the uglies are due to the issue where there is so much empty space - and a lot of light for frags. If you put a bunch of coral colonies over the dry rock, you would not have 'the uglies' - in my experience. However, that is prohibitively expensive. How to prove (or suggest that this is true? - where do you see the 'uglies' - on the surfaces that are lit - not inside caves, or the undersides of rocks. Your post is, however, a perfect example of the fact that in reefing, there are 100 excellent ways to skin a cat.

PS - Based on some of your questions, I would suggest you may be better waiting a bit before trying SPS corals. A little more experience and reading will save you some money - and give your future corals a bit better change of survival. Not saying this to be offensive, it's just my opinion.
 
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Just read some of the other posts - I have a slight disagreement with the absolute 'need' to have a nitrate of x. Many tanks do fine with nitrates of 0 or very low. I also somewhat disagree that every tank 'has to go through the uglies'. IMHO - the uglies are due to the issue where there is so much empty space - and a lot of light for frags. If you put a bunch of coral colonies over the dry rock, you would not have 'the uglies' - in my experience. However, that is prohibitively expensive. How to prove (or suggest that this is true? - where do you see the 'uglies' - on the surfaces that are lit - not inside caves, or the undersides of rocks. Your post is, however, a perfect example of the fact that in reefing, there are 100 excellent ways to skin a cat.

PS - Based on some of your questions, I would suggest you may be better waiting a bit before trying SPS corals. A little more experience and reading will save you some money - and give your future corals a bit better change of survival. Not saying this to be offensive, it's just my opinion.
most of the uglies were on the sand and parts of the rocks. I totally agree with you about sps. I was going to hold off on those for a while.
 

MnFish1

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Ok so I am going to buy a phosphate test kit. Witch Hanna checker is better phosphate low range or ultra low? I went to my local fish store the other day to have them test my phosphate and they said phosphate was zero. How can I increase phosphate?
You can increase nitrate and PO4 by feeding a little more. Also fish waste will eventually increase your nitrates and PO4 (You don't have a lot of livestock in your tank). PS - you also do not need a lot of water changes - given the parameters that you have as I believe @Jekyl also said. I forgot to ask - what lighting are you using?
 
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You can increase nitrate and PO4 by feeding a little more. Also fish waste will eventually increase your nitrates and PO4 (You don't have a lot of livestock in your tank). PS - you also do not need a lot of water changes - given the parameters that you have as I believe @Jekyl also said. I forgot to ask - what lighting are you using?
Yeah I am not doing any water changes yet. I will start feeding more. I am using 2 Red Sea 90 lights.
 

MnFish1

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Tank is 90 gallons. Don’t have a phosphate test kit. But all 3 corals look good.
I think this explains why your nitrate is 'low' - you have a very low stocking density for a 90 gallon. I would not dose anything at this point - maybe increase the number of fish you have and feed them - you will soon have enough nitrate and PO4 that you may be wanting to post asking how to remove them:)
 
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I think this explains why your nitrate is 'low' - you have a very low stocking density for a 90 gallon. I would not dose anything at this point - maybe increase the number of fish you have and feed them - you will soon have enough nitrate and PO4 that you may be wanting to post asking how to remove them:)
Only have 2 clownfish, 4 Kupang Damsels, and 2 skunk cleaner. Not a lot in the tank tank. But I have a hippo blue, flame Angel and red spotted blenny in quarantine. They should be in the tank in 2 weeks.
 

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Tank is 3 months old. Wondering how my parameters are looking. Are they good enough to get some difficult/hard to keep corals?

Parameters:
Nitrate - 0.0ppm
Salinity - 1.023
Calcium - 434ppm
Alkalinity - 8.7dKH
Magnesium - 1280ppm

Fish:
2 clownfish
4 Kupang Damsels
2 Skunk Cleaner Shrimp

Corals:
1 Leather
1 Duncan
1Frogspawn
Get that nitrate up! Way too low for corals. Calcium is good but I like to keep it around 490, salinity is too low, aim for 1.024-1.026. Overall a 3 month old tank is still too young for harder to keep corals, I would even say it's too young for that frogspawn...
 

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And what’s wrong with a salinity of 1.023
Salinity this low and your corals won’t like it. Fish only is very much possible.

Nitrates and phosphates are a food source. Just add some saltwater and everything will go up and be in the desired spot. Your magnesium is also on the low side. This should be 1350 at least imo and if you’re going to keep SPS LPS (especially LPS) they enjoy at least 1400 magnesium
 

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And what’s wrong with a salinity of 1.023
Salinity this low and your corals won’t like it. Fish only is very much possible.

Nitrates and phosphates are a food source. Just add some saltwater and everything will go up and be in the desired spot. Your magnesium is also on the low side. This should be 1350 at least imo and if you’re going to keep SPS LPS (especially LPS) they enjoy at least 1400 magnesium
 

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