How do I know which filters to replace on my RODI system?

[I_Got_Crabs]

First RODI system. TDS is approaching 3-4 range. The first (catalytic GAC?) and fourth filter look pretty brown but the two in the middle (carbon and chloroguard carbon) dont look dirty. I have replacements for all of them but dont want to replace them if I dont have to. I was expecting these to last me a lot longer, they only lasted 150-200 gallons before reaching 4 TDS. My tap water is 300-400 TDS so maybe thats why...

Do I have to replace all of them at the same time?

 

[I_Got_Crabs]

It actually looks like I dont have a replacement for chamber 4. Does anyone know what this is? Can I substitute another carbon block or GAC for it? Im such a newbie.

 

[Snoopy 67]

Looks to me like you have it backwards somewhat.
That dirty filter looks like it should be first sediment filter, then carbon, then resin & last either another DI or silicate filter depending on source water.
It does seem as if you have chloramines in your water ( extra carbon filter.)
I suggest calling Buckeye Hydro for clarification.

 

[John Widner]

So your first filter should be a pre sediment which is the dirty one you have pictured, then it goes into two carbon, then should loop up to your RO Membrane then back down to the di resin. If you have never replaced the filters I would do them all. And as far as filter life it really depends on how the water quality is going into the system, higher TDS will mean more filter replacements.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

You can download the manual for that system here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/content/5_Stage_Chloramine_Special_RODI.pdf

From right to left:
sediment filter
chloraguard carbon block (green)
Chlorine Grabber (blue ends)
ID resin (far left)

Your filter kit: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/chloramine-special-rodi-filter-kit/

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

You'll notice the color change happened AT THE TOP of the DI cartridge. That tells me the DI cart needs to be emptied, the resin remixed, some resin added, and then the cart should be repacked as tightly as possible.

Your mixed bed resin has separated... its not exhausted.

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Please give us acall when you are in front of the system and we'll be happy to talk through it with you.

Russ
513-312-2343

 

[Captain Quint]

@Buckeye Hydro

That's what I call some great customer service! :)

 

[Captain Quint]

It actually looks like I dont have a replacement for chamber 4. Does anyone know what this is? Can I substitute another carbon block or GAC for it? Im such a newbie.

Yes, that is a sediment filter which is generally every 6 months on an average. Looks as if your tap is pretty strong on the TDS levels which might require replacement a bit more often...also depends on the amount of water you purify. Just a little too dark for my taste...jmho

Looks like you have lots of help being offered by the manufacturer of your RODI unit. How cool is that?!

 

[madweazl]

That sediment filter has quite a bit of life left in it.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Looks as if your tap is pretty strong on the TDS levels which might require replacement a bit more often

AND

That sediment filter has quite a bit of life left in it.

Remember that sediment filters DO NOT capture TDS. TDS=Total DISSOLVED Solids - so because they are dissolved they pass right through a sediment filter. Sediment Filters capture TSS - Total Suspended Solids - this is the UNdissolved stuff.

The color of the sediment filter tells me it has captured lots of material - exactly what you want it to do. But use your pressure gauge to determine if the sediment filter is clogging. Compare the current gauge reading to the reading noted when the prefilters were clean/new.

Russ

 

[Captain Quint]

Remember that sediment filters DO NOT capture TDS. TDS=Total DISSOLVED Solids - so because they are dissolved they pass right through a sediment filter. Sediment Filters capture TSS - Total Suspended Solids - this is the UNdissolved stuff.

The color of the sediment filter tells me it has captured lots of material - exactly what you want it to do. But use your pressure gauge to determine if the sediment filter is clogging. Compare the current gauge reading to the reading noted when the prefilters were clean/new.

Russ

Good catch and thank you as I meant to add about TSS.

 

[lapin]

The color of the sediment filter tells me it has captured lots of material - exactly what you want it to do. But use your pressure gauge to determine if the sediment filter is clogging. Compare the current gauge reading to the reading noted when the prefilters were clean/new.

If mine looked like that I would have about 1/2 normal pressure. Sediment is not always brown. Pressure is the measure

 

[madweazl]

...

The color of the sediment filter tells me it has captured lots of material - exactly what you want it to do. But use your pressure gauge to determine if the sediment filter is clogging. Compare the current gauge reading to the reading noted when the prefilters were clean/new.

Russ

On that note, how much fall-off is acceptable and at what point do you suggest replacement?

 

[lapin]

Im at 80 with new clean as a whistle filters, if it drops down to 60 the filter or filters need replacing. But thats just me.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

The oft quoted "textbook" answer is 15%, but...

It depends. Remember your membrane (assuming it is a Filmtec 24 to 100 gpd) want's 50psi+ and can limp by down to around 40 psi.

So if your home pressure was chocked off and went from 80 psi down to 70 psi, I might not worry about it too much.
But if your pressure was chocked off and went from 50 psi down to 45 psi, I'd change it.

What do you do if your sediment filter get's loaded/dirty/clogged so quickly that it becomes impractical? Install an add-on housing kit and a sediment filter with a larger micron pore size upstream of your existing sediment filter, or use housings and sediment filters with more surface area, like a 20" x 2.5" cartridge.

Russ

 

[Captain Quint]

Im at 80 with new clean as a whistle filters, if it drops down to 60 the filter or filters need replacing. But thats just me.

I hear that.

I am probably guilty of changing mine early as I always have but my pressure is always good. Arg

 

[Empress]

If your TDS is that high change all the filters now!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

High TDS coming out of the DI tells you nothing about the condition of your sediment filter or carbon blocks.

 

[I_Got_Crabs]

Looks like you have lots of help being offered by the manufacturer of your RODI unit. How cool is that?!

Don't get that kind of support from most companies. I went with them based on their reputation.