how is everyone controling algea?

[Subsea]

the green star is hiding i just got done cleaning, when i have enough room i want a sump so i dont have to have everything in the tank it looks crazy lol


that said the only corals i can indetify in my tank are the green stay polyp and pom pom xenia, the other 2 on the rack and one on the rock i have no idea, and then i have dragons breath marco and some leaf things i dont know what they are the lfs i found them at didnt know either.

Know this about those soft corals in your tank. They are your biofilter, by sequestration which is Nutrient Recycling. When you prune and sell frags that is Nutrient Export and that is how I manage nutrients.

 

[SkyAurelia]

i didnt have any algea at tell my copods got taken out by the goby, currently there recovering i added new ones from my other tank, i also have some ideas of what i want more of now, and what i want to find for the tank, my tank is how ever only 40g so some fish are not going to work cause of there space needs.

 

[SkyAurelia]

Know this about those soft corals in your tank. They are your biofilter, by sequestration which is Nutrient Recycling. When you prune and sell frags that is Nutrient Export and that is how I manage nutrients.

i know, i have a lfs that currently is recovering its salt water section after they moved there store, i plann on selling and trading with them, already talking to them about my blue mystery snails i breed and guppies.

not related to this post but i did wipe out a pest snail infestation useing mystery snails, the mystery snails are much better at finding the food then the pest snails and because of that the pests die out and mysteries thrive.

 

[Renfield42]

I’m a fan of pithos crabs. They are relentless algae eating machines, in my experience. Every one I’ve had is voracious.

They also clean the bases of corals and haven’t shown any interest in eating them.

They do love LPS pellets so I have to distract them with some nori or they’ll take the pellets off of things like acans if the coral doesn’t ingest the pellet first.

 

[The_Bro]

Bubble algae is hard to beat with excess nutrient, emerald crab approach. Fact of the matter bubble algae just exists if you like it or not in an reef tank. And honestly Id rather have it than most other algae.
Maybe an unpopular opinion on Bubble Algae but I bought a 3ft 1/4" stainless round steel rod that I use as my everyday tank poker, snail/ hermit flipper. Mind you I run a UV sterilizer which is why i think this works.
But i just poke and prod off any bubble algae in my tank then just catch it in a net once its in the water column and dispose of it .UV at least I believe takes care of any "spores".
Not the most scientific approach, and maybe I'm wrong but it has always worked for me. And hell maybe it will work for someone else.

 

[SkyAurelia]

Bubble algae is hard to beat with excess nutrient, emerald crab approach. Fact of the matter bubble algae just exists if you like it or not in an reef tank. And honestly Id rather have it than most other algae.
Maybe an unpopular opinion on Bubble Algae but I bought a 3ft 1/4" stainless round steel rod that I use as my everyday tank poker, snail/ hermit flipper. Mind you I run a UV sterilizer which is why i think this works.
But i just poke and prod off any bubble algae in my tank then just catch it in a net once its in the water column and dispose of it .UV at least I believe takes care of any "spores".
Not the most scientific approach, and maybe I'm wrong but it has always worked for me. And hell maybe it will work for someone else.

mostly this is what i do at this point with addition that i did add microbater clean thats supposed to help clean the rock and corals of algea, mostly the staying on top of it seems to be the trick.

 

[kingranch2003]

For bubble algae? I’ve only ever found 2 sure ways to deal with it. For larger tanks: a foxface. For smaller tanks: an algaecide of some kind. I like API AlgaeFix. Just know the risks. I’ve never once seen emerald or pithos crabs knock back bubble algae for good

To control algae (or any pest really) always comes down to the same thing: predation. More herbivores to eat the algae. Limiting nutrients to the point it stunts growth of algae is also stunting the growth of anything else that needs those same nutrients. Keeping nutrients in check is always a good thing but that number is not the ocean levels. Keep nitrate between 5-20ppm and keep phosphate below .2ppm

+1 on API AlgaeFix. It definitely does the trick for bubble algae.

 

[SkyAurelia]

+1 on API AlgaeFix. It definitely does the trick for bubble algae.

i have had bad luck with API brand stuff and generally avoid them, but if multiple ppl can say this works i can give it a try as well, its just there medicines have failed me in the past and there test kits have been really bad, i got sick of there test kits and got hannah checkers witch did in fact prove how in accurate they was for me.


a example would be the nitrate test kit told me i had 60ppm nitrate, witch made no sense to me, so i had a lfs test my water and tell me diffrently and my hannah checker also says diffrently.

also have had fresh water tanks get ick a few times when i first got into the hobby, the api meds failed me and my fish did not survive, i have sense went to seachem, metroplex and garlicgaurd combo and it treats anything i have had to deal with so far.

 

[kingranch2003]

i have had bad luck with API brand stuff and generally avoid them, but if multiple ppl can say this works i can give it a try as well, its just there medicines have failed me in the past and there test kits have been really bad, i got sick of there test kits and got hannah checkers witch did in fact prove how in accurate they was for me.


a example would be the nitrate test kit told me i had 60ppm nitrate, witch made no sense to me, so i had a lfs test my water and tell me diffrently and my hannah checker also says diffrently.

also have had fresh water tanks get ick a few times when i first got into the hobby, the api meds failed me and my fish did not survive, i have sense went to seachem, metroplex and garlicgaurd combo and it treats anything i have had to deal with so far.

I completely agree as I use Hannahs tests myself.

Algaefix slowly shrunk the BA, then it took a lighter tone and disappeared. I completely understand your hesitation, though.

I used the Daily amount as my WEEKLY dose. It was slow, but it took care of the issue over about a month's time. Ill add that I do run carbon and do bi-weekly 25% water changes. Good luck to you my friend!

 

[CHSUB]

Bubble algae is hard to beat with excess nutrient, emerald crab approach. Fact of the matter bubble algae just exists if you like it or not in an reef tank. And honestly Id rather have it than most other algae.
Maybe an unpopular opinion on Bubble Algae but I bought a 3ft 1/4" stainless round steel rod that I use as my everyday tank poker, snail/ hermit flipper. Mind you I run a UV sterilizer which is why i think this works.
But i just poke and prod off any bubble algae in my tank then just catch it in a net once its in the water column and dispose of it .UV at least I believe takes care of any "spores".
Not the most scientific approach, and maybe I'm wrong but it has always worked for me. And hell maybe it will work for someone else.

I agree bubble algae is easy to manually remove. Never a problem unless you just cross your fingers and hope it goes away.

 

[PPBlimpy]

I have lots of herbivores in my tank. Planning to ad more too.
I run my lights for 13+ hours a day. Letting the regular algea build on the rocks and glass.
Herbs pick at it all day long. Scrape the glass every other day. They go nuts for the film that comes off.

Luckily I haven’t had any issues with bubble algea or cyano in a really long time.

I don’t have a regular CUC because my puffer eats them when he gets bored. Not sure how but I have one blue leg hermit that has survived over a year with the puffer.

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Water changes, keeping up with ,maintenance and making sure CUC is stocked

 

[The Ugly Phase]

3 mexican turbos i have other snails but they seem useless mexican turbos are the real bees knees

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

I see this hobby as 95% algae prevention. Everything is about algae prevention.

Do you have enough flow in the tank? Algae prevention question
Do you have too much bioload in tank? Algae prevention
How much to feed the fish? Algae prevention
Are the nutrients too high or too low? Algae prevention
How much clean up crew do I need? Algae prevention

Everything you do and think of should have algae prevention in the back of the mind. Thats how I deal with algae.

 

[Timfish]

My primary method is using steel straws and urchins. Just like Hawaii did.

 

[breathing underwater]

Managing nutrients helps keep algae growth 'normal' in pace, so that herbivores can control it. But if you create conditions for photosynthetic coral to grow it will always grow algae too. Every reef needs herbivores to eat the various species and niches of algae. Sometimes, (like with bubble algae in tanks not big enough for large powerful fish that can actually eat it) YOU are the herbivore!

I've used long handle forceps to clear out bubble algae clumps. I'll have to try the metal straws! Basically whatever is ergonomic is good cuz that stuff can really grip on in a high flow reef!

 

[skey44]

Manual removal (I like take out chopsticks for popping them off) works. Also clean up critters work for me. I do emerald crabs at about 5/100 gallons and/or pithos crabs at 2/100 gallons as a good starting point. I think the smaller clawed specimens are more efficient for algae eating. Pithos have short life spans so be aware. I’ve had good luck with them eating algae and not corals. Other people complain about them, but I’ve never had one turn to corals and have had a lot of experience. Could be the corals I keep, or could be my heavy feeding practices.
I’ve also had hit or miss luck with several fish. Zebrasoma tangs will eat it sometimes (my Purple Tang definitely helps), and as mentioned foxface are pretty reliable. Other tangs/herbivorous fish are possible but less reliable.
It definitely grows faster if nitrogen or phosphate levels are high. Think of it as fertilizer. You will still need to mow the lawn even when fertilizer is limited.

 

[SkyAurelia]

I completely agree as I use Hannahs tests myself.

Algaefix slowly shrunk the BA, then it took a lighter tone and disappeared. I completely understand your hesitation, though.

I used the Daily amount as my WEEKLY dose. It was slow, but it took care of the issue over about a month's time. Ill add that I do run carbon and do bi-weekly 25% water changes. Good luck to you my friend!

well i will keep that noted in t he back of my mind, if i what i am currently planing dont help i will try that out.

 

[bobnicaragua]

Whenever I see hair algae, I start adding cuc every week until I don’t see it anymore. You can adjust your nutrients all day, but the algae won’t go away if you don’t have enough herbivores to consume it.

My foxface and sailfin both eat bubble algae.

 

[Tommy B]

Might be overcommunicated by now but my 80g has 3 urchins for hair algae and film algae. lots of trochus snails. 2 emerald crabs for bubble algae. one Tomini for picking at leftovers.

Since I setup a refugium in the sump, algae doesn't prefer to grow in the display anymore and my nutrients are around .15 phosphates and 20 nitrates pretty consistently.