How to build a hood?

Stang67

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I am thinking about building a hood for my 180g. Primary reason to hide the lights as well as mount the lights. I have 2 Reefbreeders and would like to get some t5s. I am looking for recommendations on materials and anyone that has a good link or thread on how to build one. Yes I know I can Google but I wanted to see what you all have come up with first. Tia
 

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How tall, doors I assume ? fans in sides , open back ?
@Projects with Sam ,seem to be pretty quick with drawings... ;) :)
 

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I have a wooden hood for my 120 that opens and closes like a clamshell. I also have glass tops to keep the moisture down. Couple of thoughts if I were to do it again

First, I’d have someone build it with spring or pneumatic pistons to hold the lid up. The wood top and reefbreeder lights will be heavy.

Second, Ive seen some really cool builds where the hood raises and lowers using a TV mount or other device. I’d definitely consider that.
 

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You should provide a picture of the tank and area.
1. How you want to mount it (from the ceiling, rest on the tank, suspended from a wall.
2. Are you looking for a canopy style (enclosed) or just a frame with sides.
3. Its important to understand how you access the top of the tank, how deep the tank is, and how easy it is to move the canopy if needed.
4. What material

I prefer to hang it from the ceiling, my build thread has some of what was done.
I used some L aluminum from home depot for "tracks" that I mounted to 2x 2x4s across the width of the tank and the aluminum along the length (radions). The 2x4s had hooks that were connected by chains to hooks in the ceiling. The chain allowed me to customize the height of the fixture by moving which chain link was on the ceiling hook. This also made it easy to raise the whole fixture for tank maintenance.
I used 1/4' PVC sheet with wood texture (4x8 sheet for $60 at home depot) and screwed those to the sides of the fixture (2x4s) to make it pretty.

The light was independent of the canopy, which rested on the edge of the tank frame. I made it with 2x4 that rested on the frame, then screwed 1x6 or 1x8" to that to cover the black plastic frame. this was very light so if I needed to access the tank I could just slide it off without dealing with the lights etc.
 
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Stang67

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I have a wooden hood for my 120 that opens and closes like a clamshell. I also have glass tops to keep the moisture down. Couple of thoughts if I were to do it again

First, I’d have someone build it with spring or pneumatic pistons to hold the lid up. The wood top and reefbreeder lights will be heavy.

Second, Ive seen some really cool builds where the hood raises and lowers using a TV mount or other device. I’d definitely consider that.
I saw the mechanical one on parkers reef I think. Definately some type of piston or shock method of support. Would love it to be aluminium to match the stand but I have to dig in a bit more on how to make that work.
 
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Stang67

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You should provide a picture of the tank and area.
1. How you want to mount it (from the ceiling, rest on the tank, suspended from a wall.
2. Are you looking for a canopy style (enclosed) or just a frame with sides.
3. Its important to understand how you access the top of the tank, how deep the tank is, and how easy it is to move the canopy if needed.
4. What material

I prefer to hang it from the ceiling, my build thread has some of what was done.
I used some L aluminum from home depot for "tracks" that I mounted to 2x 2x4s across the width of the tank and the aluminum along the length (radions). The 2x4s had hooks that were connected by chains to hooks in the ceiling. The chain allowed me to customize the height of the fixture by moving which chain link was on the ceiling hook. This also made it easy to raise the whole fixture for tank maintenance.
I used 1/4' PVC sheet with wood texture (4x8 sheet for $60 at home depot) and screwed those to the sides of the fixture (2x4s) to make it pretty.

The light was independent of the canopy, which rested on the edge of the tank frame. I made it with 2x4 that rested on the frame, then screwed 1x6 or 1x8" to that to cover the black plastic frame. this was very light so if I needed to access the tank I could just slide it off without dealing with the lights etc.
Yeah sorry about the lack of info.
1. How you want to mount it (from the ceiling, rest on the tank, suspended from a wall.
-prefer to rest on tank. Walls and ceiling are plaster and would not be able to access either as tank already in place.

2. Are you looking for a canopy style (enclosed) or just a frame with sides.
- not sure but think (based on how id like to attach the lights) a canopy would be better.

3. Its important to understand how you access the top of the tank, how deep the tank is, and how easy it is to move the canopy if needed.
- i access the top of the tank for feeding and cleaning so that would be an arguement for having just a frame with sides vs full canopy. Tank is 24 deep. Moving top would not be ideal due to space restrictions.

4. What material
-would prefer aluminum to match the stand and for weight. My lights now are mounted using tslot so I would already have some of the materials needed.

Current tank and lights.
20230529_130706.jpg
 
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Stang67

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I used pvc board, contact clue and laminate
edit: and a T slot frame….30/30 I think?
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg image.jpg
1689788973552.png

So does this one sit on the top glass or Is it attached to the wall? I like this idea alot. Are the panels attached to the tslot? How? Front panel removeable? Seems like I am running into you alot. Great minds huh?
 

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1689788973552.png

So does this one sit on the top glass or Is it attached to the wall? I like this idea alot. Are the panels attached to the tslot? How? Front panel removeable? Seems like I am running into you alot. Great minds huh?
The 650’s hood floats, I used the hanging dinning room light for both power and as a suspension point, if you look towards the back, those black pulleys I found on Amazon and are used to suspend/level the back (suspends from 3 points) … the Hood on the 300 is bolted into studs using hinges….
The PVC is screwed into the Tslot using countersunk stainless steel screws…basically since the PVc is 1/2” thick, I just barely hit the pvc with the tip if a large drill bit (circumference larger than the screw head), this allow the head to be flush and thence covered with formica laminate…
 

Lost in the Sauce

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I don't think you were around yet when I had my 180 up and going.

The light hanging solution I threw together with extra pieces of plywood ended up being good enough for government work and I had no need to ever make the full on canopy I though I needed.
Screenshot_20230719-114546.png


You could easily hang RB'S under it. The style has the benefit of being able to easily move/slide back on the tank if you need more access.
Screenshot_20230719-114732.png
 
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Stang67

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I don't think you were around yet when I had my 180 up and going.

The light hanging solution I threw together with extra pieces of plywood ended up being good enough for government work and I had no need to ever make the full on canopy I though I needed.
Screenshot_20230719-114546.png


You could easily hang RB'S under it. The style has the benefit of being able to easily move/slide back on the tank if you need more access.
Screenshot_20230719-114732.png
I may have to find those posts that's nice!
 

tbrown

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For the 110 my wife and I built a box with sides only and installed French cleats and a front that is removable. No top and we didn't use any lid material since it's freshwater. The lights are suspended from a rail running across the top.
 

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