How to cycle correctly

Pixburgh

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Normally when starting a new FW tank I seed with a cup full of gravel from one of my established tanks (IMO works way better than any LFS "bacteria" they try to sell). However this will be my first SW tank so I don't have that option and with all the hitch hiker posts i've seen here, I think i'd rather do dry rock. I see some people use bio-spira to help cycling, is it worth it to use or no?

I also see that an uncooked shrimp works well to start the process, first question is.. does it create a smell? I have an african grey who sleeps in the room that my SW tank will be in and they're very sensitive to odors.

second question, do i filter the water while the cycle is going? (HOB)

third and final, i know what to look for in a proper fw cycle.. are there any difference in sw cycling? (test kit wise, is it the same in that i need to watch for the nitrITEs to go to zero before i consider if fully cycled or is it the algae growth that i need to be watching after that's completed?)

If my understanding is correct, i set up the tank, get my salinity to proper levels, add my dry rock, add the shrimp & possibly bio-spira, wait, wait some more, test, wait again, test, add something hardy to start. (???)

You guys have been super helpful thus far, so much appreciated!
 

reeffirstaid

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Dr. Tim's (DrTim's Aquatics | One & Only Live Nitrifying Bacteria | Natural Aquarium Cleaner) makes some great liquids for cycling marine aquariums, that allow you to cycle without adding fish, or cocktail shrimp. I would recommend using those, as they work well and offer a complete cycle. For the most part, marine aquarium cycling is similar to freshwater cycling. I would consider adding live rock. You can use dry rock, which eventually becomes live rock, once your aquarium is mature. Though, you will greatly aid the cycling process, and speed it up, by using live rock, that is already cured. If you've decided that you don't want live rock, then you will be looking at the same parameters, as you would in freshwater. 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, balanced salinity, balanced ph and just a tad of nitrate.
 
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Pixburgh

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Oh thanks, that sounds perfect. I'll look more into the live rock too, i'm just nervous about creatures i'll be bringing home with it.

So after i'm cycled and doing the first WC, is it just a normal 10-20% change? And how do you keep the salinity right?
 

NC2WA

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Pixburgh,

basically, get a good test good (Salifer, Elos) and if you have a detectable amount of Nitrates, then a cycle has completed. You want to check for Ammonia and Nitrite as these should be zero.

correct, only perform a WC when the tank is cycled not before then.

To keep salinity right, there are two ways to test: hydrometer or Refractometer.

personally, if you are just started out a hydrometer (the one with the plastic arm) will do fine, but you will eventually want to invest in a refractometer (much more accurate).
 
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Pixburgh

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What is a good reading for salinity or do certain fish/corals have different requirements?

And is there a formula for how much salt to add to raise the level or is it a situation of add a little, test, add a little more, test until it gets to the ideal level?
 

SloppyJ

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The salt mix will give you a guideline to follow. IMO the easiest way to cycle is to feed the tank like there are fish in there. That will keep a constant supply of nutrients to break down and it's easy. Get a test kit for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate.
 

reeffirstaid

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I would get on board with Red Sea's Reef Foundation and Reef Colors program. Red Sea has paired their test kits, with their additives. When you test something, it will tell you exactly how much to add, based on your test results, for the animals you are trying to keep. If you plan on using the Red Sea program, I would recommend their Coral Pro Salt. Luckily, their test kits, additive and salt, is all top notch.
 
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Pixburgh

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We have a reef speciality store that carries red sea products, i'll have to pay a visit and see what all they have. I know they carry the coral pro salt though!
 

NC2WA

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1.023-1.025 is a good level...higher 1.026 if running mainly corals or keeping fish from the Red Sea

if you are mainly going to be corals reef crystals is tried and true salt and relatively affordable
 

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