How to get my baby yellow tang to eat and whats wrond with its fin

Eagle_Steve

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I did put noir on a rock with rubber band and noir on a clip but I dont see him going for it
It will take time and leaving the room the fish is in alone. If it is in a high traffic area, you can try to put some carboard around the tank for a few hours to let the fish get comfortable in the tank.

I forgot to ask earlier, but do you have pipe fitting in the tank, larger than the tang for it to hide?

Also, I just realized that it looks like you have sand in the tank. Is that correct? If so, the copper will bind to it and it will be heck trying to keep the copper at a therapeutic level.
 
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big man

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very hard to detecy anything in heavy blue lighting. Please provide pics under white lights. In addition, the fin l;ooks raggy but can be due to poor water conditions from facility or shipping bag or even aggression prior to capture at facility.
Acclimation is very important with a young tang of any genus. How did you acclimate and for how long?
As for eating, the fact its showing interest is a good start. Pelleted foods is not a good first food or a staple for tangs. Flakes are no different but better for digestibility.
Spirulina brine shrimp. mysis shrimp and LRS reef frenzy are good enticers and starter foods. Try lowering light and step back when you feed as fish may be scared yet
I just tested my water and my nitrates of at like 80 ppm I pretty sure that's why his fin is like that and y he's not eating so I'm gonna put him in a bucket with a Spong filter until the nitrate of the quarantine is at a good range
 

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I just tested my water and my nitrates of at like 80 ppm I pretty sure that's why his fin is like that and y he's not eating so I'm gonna put him in a bucket with a Spong filter until the nitrate of the quarantine is at a good range
Nitrate wont affect fin but will curb its appetite and affect breathing, however I mentioned water quality and high nitrate would cause impact.
 

Eagle_Steve

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I just tested my water and my nitrates of at like 80 ppm I pretty sure that's why his fin is like that and y he's not eating so I'm gonna put him in a bucket with a Spong filter until the nitrate of the quarantine is at a good range
Simple fix for high nitrates in a qt tank is a water change.

I would also suggest removing the sand if it has sand. That is just a place for detritus to build up and make it harder to control nutrients while doing QT. Not to mention what I posted above about keeping copper at therapeutic levels.

Biofilter for QT should be done using sponges in a HOB filter, bubble sponge or similar. If using a HOB filter, make sure carbon is not being used either.
 
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big man

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Simple fix for high nitrates in a qt tank is a water change.

I would also suggest removing the sand if it has sand. That is just a place for detritus to build up and make it harder to control nutrients while doing QT. Not to mention what I posted above about keeping copper at therapeutic levels.

Biofilter for QT should be done using sponges in a HOB filter, bubble sponge or similar. If using a HOB filter, make sure carbon is not being used either.
My quarantine tank is my old 10 gallon fluval tank kit it has a sponge and a return pump and I also put a air stone in it
 

Eagle_Steve

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It has sand which I'm going to remove now
Best way to to this, as it may have detritus built up in it is to siphon it out. This will do 2 things at once. Water change and remove sand. It will also keep the detritus from becoming suspended in the water column, just to resttle in the tank or end up in the sponge filter.
 

Eagle_Steve

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Also, you will need to pretreat the water you will be adding back in if you want to keep it at 1.0 coppersafe.

If it was me, I would not pretreat if the fish shows no signs of symptoms. I would just let the level drop and then raise it back once the fish is eating. Or if the fish shows signs of disease.

best thing at this point is to get the fish eating, comfortable and provide a safe environment for it. Treatment can come once it gets to eating.

You can then raise the copper level slowly, as this will not impact the fish as much, in regards to losing it appetite.
 
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very hard to detecy anything in heavy blue lighting. Please provide pics under white lights. In addition, the fin l;ooks raggy but can be due to poor water conditions from facility or shipping bag or even aggression prior to capture at facility.
Acclimation is very important with a young tang of any genus. How did you acclimate and for how long?
As for eating, the fact its showing interest is a good start. Pelleted foods is not a good first food or a staple for tangs. Flakes are no different but better for digestibility.
Spirulina brine shrimp. mysis shrimp and LRS reef frenzy are good enticers and starter foods. Try lowering light and step back when you feed as fish may be scared yet
If I keep the lights off for a few days would that get him to Start eating the noir on the small rock I put in the tank
 
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It will take time and leaving the room the fish is in alone. If it is in a high traffic area, you can try to put some carboard around the tank for a few hours to let the fish get comfortable in the tank.

I forgot to ask earlier, but do you have pipe fitting in the tank, larger than the tang for it to hide?

Also, I just realized that it looks like you have sand in the tank. Is that correct? If so, the copper will bind to it and it will be heck trying to keep the copper at a therapeutic level.
This is how my quarantine tank looks like I did the best I could getting rid of the sand
 

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Eagle_Steve

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This is how my quarantine tank looks like I did the best I could getting rid of the sand
Much better. Let fish sleep with light off now and then tomorrow, put some nori on a rock and walk away for a while. Check back in an hour or so and see if it pecked any off the rock. But look from a distance if ya can.
 

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If I keep the lights off for a few days would that get him to Start eating the noir on the small rock I put in the tank
Only thing you can do is try and have a plan b if no success
 

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CB tangs, it doesn’t matter what species, all come in with some form of a deformity. sometimes that’s the colour going with a bright white patch on their face or if that’s with a torn fun from being in holding tanks with the same species (Which is dangerous if you want to make money due to how every now and then they kill off the weakest). They also tend to have HLLE from what they think is not enough vitamin D however, I find even the ones that are raised in sun wind up with HLLE anyway.
The feeding of CB yellows isn’t great either, my LFS have stopped getting them in constantly and only get them in when someone actually wants one because of the issues they come with. For now my LFS is sticking with WC Indonesian yellows and even then it’s an occasional thing when they get them in.
 
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big man

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Only thing you can do is try and have a plan b if no success
I checked on him this morning and his fins look even worse
Since I'm going to work I just put some api stress coat for now. But will kanaplex work for his fins or fritz maracyn oxy
 

vetteguy53081

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I checked on him this morning and his fins look even worse
Since I'm going to work I just put some api stress coat for now. But will kanaplex work for his fins or fritz maracyn oxy

Stress coat won’t do anything
Apply Maracyn 2 in quarantine or metroplex
Also make facility aware
 

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Do a water change if it hasn’t been done. Most antibiotics actually say to do one every other day or every few days and redose. Be sure to read the directions carefully.

I would try some LRS and spirulina brine.
 
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big man

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he's now eating everything im giving him and he went for them immediately and his fins are smaller now but they don't look like they're getting any worse but I'll have to wait and see
 
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