Hydros Control 2 , Control 4 and accessories question and answer thread.

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

I hear you guys. I just want simple and most importantly fail proof. Cost is less of a concern compared to cost of critters.

I would have been more impressed by no wifi connection, and direct cable, to things i am plugging in and controlling.

For now, im holding off and leaning towards all DHL... controller, alk doser and tester, and the new ion tester when it comes out.

Mostly, because Hydros does not seem to have everything sorted yet and my buddy has a DHL and he never talks about it because it just always works... It looks nice... and its one set of equipment from one company and not a Frankenstein of various this and that because they did something like wifi where its not desired...

Ill just have to learn DHL's learning curve... nothings perfect, but if that's the worst of it, that'll probably be my choice

 

[Ketan]

You mean GHL controller?

DHL

 

[Mywifeisgunnakillme]

Yea, obviously. Sorry i dont fix typos much

 

[oceanhighz]

I have a Tunze ATO pump I'd like to use if I get the control 4, I understand I should be able to hook it up to the control 4 by soldering to a specific part. Does anyone know if that's available yet?

 

[jrill]

I have a Tunze ATO pump I'd like to use if I get the control 4, I understand I should be able to hook it up to the control 4 by soldering to a specific part. Does anyone know if that's available yet?

Is it a 12 volt pump?

 

[TheHarold]

I have a Tunze ATO pump I'd like to use if I get the control 4, I understand I should be able to hook it up to the control 4 by soldering to a specific part. Does anyone know if that's available yet?

According to Carlos (Coralvue) on this forum, it draws excessive power at 12v and requires a regulator:

Tunze ATO Pump

FYI, you can adapt the Tunze ATO pump to work with the hydros drive port. Just pickup a Hydros Drive Cable. Cut the cable and attach it to the Tunze pump.

forum.coralvuehydros.com

 

[oceanhighz]

Thanks for the info and the link. I was told by someone on their team when I called to ask, that I could use it, so I was trying to figure out how, glad to know there is more to it than simply connecting the cable to the drive port.

 

[Voodoo99]

Hi Everyone! New member looking for some feedback. I will be installing the Hydros leak detector rope in conjunction with their solenoid water valve. My main objective is to protect my finished basement floor from leaks. One scenario is when refilling my rodi container. If the mech float valve fails then the leak rope will detect the overflow and shut the valve thereby stopping the source water. Between all the canisters, TDS taps etc, etc, I counted almost 30 connections (possible failure points) in my rodi system. Although it is recommended to install the valve on the product water side rather than closest to the source, and I understand why, I feel I’d be at greater risk by neglecting all those potential failure points.
Q: Have any of you had positive/negative experiences with either of these options and what would you advise?

 

[n2585722]

Hi Everyone! New member looking for some feedback. I will be installing the Hydros leak detector rope in conjunction with their solenoid water valve. My main objective is to protect my finished basement floor from leaks. One scenario is when refilling my rodi container. If the mech float valve fails then the leak rope will detect the overflow and shut the valve thereby stopping the source water. Between all the canisters, TDS taps etc, etc, I counted almost 30 connections (possible failure points) in my rodi system. Although it is recommended to install the valve on the product water side rather than closest to the source, and I understand why, I feel I’d be at greater risk by neglecting all those potential failure points.
Q: Have any of you had positive/negative experiences with either of these options and what would you advise?

I have no experience with the leak detector rope yet. Currently I still have the leak detectors on my Archon. I do have the hydros controlling the RODI and use three solenoids. One solenoid is on the input to the RODI. It is controlled by a timer that turns on for 10 minutes every hour. It will also turn on if either of the other two solenoids are turned on. The reason for the timer is that the RODI also supplies RO water to the ice maker in the fridge. One of the other solenoids refills my DI storage tank when it goes low. There are float switches in the tank for low level and full. I also have a float valve on this input as a backup to the full float switch. The remaining solenoid refills the mixing tank when the low level float switch in that tank is tripped. It also has a full float switch and also a float valve for backup. If you use a float valve make sure your RODI has an ASOV valve installed. The only leaks I have had so far are from the RODI canisters. They have a nasty habbit of leaking a few days after filter replacements. This has happend couple of times in a four year period. If for some reason a leak is detected all three of the solenoid valves are shut off along with the ATO and auto water change pumps.

 

[Voodoo99]

I have no experience with the leak detector rope yet. Currently I still have the leak detectors on my Archon. I do have the hydros controlling the RODI and use three solenoids. One solenoid is on the input to the RODI. It is controlled by a timer that turns on for 10 minutes every hour. It will also turn on if either of the other two solenoids are turned on. The reason for the timer is that the RODI also supplies RO water to the ice maker in the fridge. One of the other solenoids refills my DI storage tank when it goes low. There are float switches in the tank for low level and full. I also have a float valve on this input as a backup to the full float switch. The remaining solenoid refills the mixing tank when the low level float switch in that tank is tripped. It also has a full float switch and also a float valve for backup. If you use a float valve make sure your RODI has an ASOV valve installed. The only leaks I have had so far are from the RODI canisters. They have a nasty habbit of leaking a few days after filter replacements. This has happend couple of times in a four year period. If for some reason a leak is detected all three of the solenoid valves are shut off along with the ATO and auto water change pumps.

Thanks for your reply! It sounds like you’ve had success with multiple solenoids in play. Good to hear! There is an asov installed on the rodi currently. A while back, out of nowhere, one of my clear filter canisters developed a 1” hairline crack on one side and started spraying a mist all over the wall. Luckily I was there. Must have been pressure induced and a mfg defect as I hadn’t even touched the filters in a couple months. That day I learned it’s not if but when. I’m hoping this solution will buy me time if I am not close by to act.

 

[n2585722]

Thanks for your reply! It sounds like you’ve had success with multiple solenoids in play. Good to hear! There is an asov installed on the rodi currently. A while back, out of nowhere, one of my clear filter canisters developed a 1” hairline crack on one side and started spraying a mist all over the wall. Luckily I was there. Must have been pressure induced and a mfg defect as I hadn’t even touched the filters in a couple months. That day I learned it’s not if but when. I’m hoping this solution will buy me time if I am not close by to act.

The leak detectors have saved me more than once. I even have one under my air conditioner. That one caught a leak there when it was just a puddle still. The drain line on the air conditioner split and an email alerted me that there was an issue. That probably saved our hardwood flooring in out living room. I have float switches in my stand that will alert me of a leak there. It will also cause all pumps to shut off with exception of two flow pumps in the tank itself. It triggered right after I first setup the tank. A hose had popped off the return manifold otherwise I would have had wet carpet in that room that time. The stand was made to hold water in the bottom. So none escaped onto the floor before the pumps were stopped.

 

[Voodoo99]

The leak detectors have saved me more than once. I even have one under my air conditioner. That one caught a leak there when it was just a puddle still. The drain line on the air conditioner split and an email alerted me that there was an issue. That probably saved our hardwood flooring in out living room. I have float switches in my stand that will alert me of a leak there. It will also cause all pumps to shut off with exception of two flow pumps in the tank itself. It triggered right after I first setup the tank. A hose had popped off the return manifold otherwise I would have had wet carpet in that room that time. The stand was made to hold water in the bottom. So none escaped onto the floor before the pumps were stopped.

You’ve given me a few things to think about here. I think I’ll add a water level sensor as a backup to the float valve in the rodi container. That plastic valve will probably snap on it’s own some day. I’ll be sure to post my experience with this setup using the Hydros. Thanks very much!

 

[n2585722]

Ok, the programming for my RODi is in the screenshots below. The first one is the timer which you may not need but I figured I would post it anyway. It uses the Generic output type. The input count is set to 0 since there are no inputs controlling it. Has Schedule is turned on. Notice Output Device is set to none for this ouput since it does not control a real output. Advanced Settings is set to on. Start time is set for 00:00:00 for the first time to run. Runtime is set to 10 minutes since I want it on for 10 minutes. The remaining settings are in the next screenshot.

Run count is set to 24 since I want it on 24 times in a 24 hour period. The Run Interval is set for 1 hour since I want it to come on every hour.

This next output is setup to turn on if either the DI fill or Mix fill solenoids are turned on. The output type used is the Combiner. This combines two other outputs. They can be inverted also. In this case neither are inverted. The first input is my DI fill output. The second is the Mix fill output. The Combiner mode used here is OR since we want this output on if either input is active. A output device is not assigned since this does not drive an actual output. If you don't use the timer you can use this to drive the RODI input solenoid and will not need the next output.

The next output is also a combiner output type. With this it has input 1 as the timer and the output previously created as input 2 this also uses the combiner mode as OR as either input will turn on the input solenoid. This has the output that drive the input solenoid assigned. If you don't use the timer this output is not needed. Hope this helps.

 

[Voodoo99]

Ok, the programming for my RODi is in the screenshots below. The first one is the timer which you may not need but I figured I would post it anyway. It uses the Generic output type. The input count is set to 0 since there are no inputs controlling it. Has Schedule is turned on. Notice Output Device is set to none for this ouput since it does not control a real output. Advanced Settings is set to on. Start time is set for 00:00:00 for the first time to run. Runtime is set to 10 minutes since I want it on for 10 minutes. The remaining settings are in the next screenshot.

Run count is set to 24 since I want it on 24 times in a 24 hour period. The Run Interval is set for 1 hour since I want it to come on every hour.

This next output is setup to turn on if either the DI fill or Mix fill solenoids are turned on. The output type used is the Combiner. This combines two other outputs. They can be inverted also. in this can neither are inverted. The first input is my DI fill output. The second if the Mix fill output. The Combiner mode used here is OR since we want this output on if either input is active. A output device is not assigned since this does not drive an actual output. If you don't use the timer you can use this to drive the RODI input solenoid and will not need the next output.

The next output is also a combiner output type. With this it has input 1 as the timer and the output previously created as input 2 this also uses the combiner mode as OR as either input will turn on the input solenoid. This has the output that drive the input solenoid assigned. If you don't use the timer this output is not needed. Hope this helps.

Ah...clever. So I see how I can use the Combiner to shut off my source water solenoid if either the leak detector OR water level sensor is triggered. One thing I noticed if I understand how this all works, do you really need to set the Run count to 24? Since you are running once every hour couldn’t you just set it to “0=no limit” or does this count provide some kind of secondary protection?

 

[n2585722]

Ah...clever. So I see how I can use the Combiner to shut off my source water solenoid if either the leak detector OR water level sensor is triggered. One thing I noticed if I understand how this all works, do you really need to set the Run count to 24? Since you are running once every hour couldn’t you just set it to “0=no limit” or does this count provide some kind of secondary protection?

You may be able to use 0. I got used to using the limit programming the other timers I am using. The only issue using a combiner type is the two inputs have to be outputs. So if you want to use an input you have to convert the input to an output. I did this with the DI and Mix refill programming. The screenshot below is the output for the DI Low sensor. This does not drive an actual output so no output is assigned.

Below is the output for the DI full sensor. It is about the same as the one for the input other than the sensor used.

The next output is a Combiner type used to latch on the actual DI fill output until the storage tank is full. The DI low sensor is used to trigger this. The First input is the DI low output. The second input is the actual output that drives the DI fill solenoid. The Combiner Mode used is OR since we want this output on if either of the two inputs is active.

The next output is the actual DI fill output. It also uses the Combiner type. Input one is the latch output. Input 2 is the DI full output but it is inverted since we want an active signal when it is not active. The Combiner mode used here is AND since we want it to turn off if the full sensor is active. Since that input is inverted the combiner see it as inactive when active. This allows you to use DI until it gets low. The tank will be automatically refilled to the full float. The RODI units are more efficient when they make several gallons at a time instead of a little at a time frequently. My DI tank is just a 20 gallon Brute trash can.

 

[n2585722]

As far as stopping for a leak just make a output that is active while there is a leak and use the depends on on the DI fill output and set it as off when on. That will kill the fill cycle until the DI Low sensor is triggered again. You would also want the leak input to trigger an alarm so you will be notified. You can use this same output to stop the other solenoids and any other pumps you have near that leak detector.

 

[shred5]

I am in the process of doing the same. I was hoping the sense module was soon to make it easier.
The solenoid would probably be fine after the prefilters on the RO unit. That is what I was planing anyway.
Goal is to fill a a freshwater container. Then automatically fill up a couple of ATO containers from there. I may go directly to sumps from the fresh water container though and use mechanical and a solenoid.

I have 3 sumps so it may be better to go to the ATO containers.

I really just started thinking about it.

 

[n2585722]

I have my three storage tanks in the garage under my workbench. They are 20 gallon brute trash cans on the Brute Dolly's so I can roll them out when needed. I have photos of adding float switches and fittings in my build thread here. They start at post 116 page 6 here https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/canopy-and-stand-build-for-42-gallon-hex-tank.317822/page-6 . I have a second tank and plan on drawing from these storage tanks for both tanks. My ATO pump pulls directly from the DI storage tank. The AWC pump pulls directly from the fresh salt water storage tank. I also currently dose All For Reef and inject it into the ATO tube going to the tank. I do have check valve on both the ATO pump output and the All For Reef output. This seems to work since the ATO dosing pump runs quite a bit during the day. The tank is about 35ft from the garage and I run the tubing to and from the tank through conduit in the attic. The conduit is insulated to keep the water from freezing. I have had no issue in the 5 years the tank has been setup. We rarely get below freezing for any long length of time though. I far as the sense module I needed the drive ports more than the sense ports anyway. So I added a Control 2 along with the control 4. I will need another Control 2 when I move the All For Reef pump to the Hydros. For now it is the only dosing pump still controlled directly by the Archon. I am very leery of using the WiFi strips to control the dosing pumps or the storage tank refills. I do control one solenoid from the WiFi strip. It is the input to the RODI. The RODI has a ASOV valve so there would not normally be an issue with it being on for a period of time. I like to have the control to turn it off if there is a leak. The solenoids do not like to be left on continuously so I have it setup to come on when needed.

 

[Voodoo99]

You may be able to use 0. I got used to using the limit programming the other timers I am using. The only issue using a combiner type is the two inputs have to be outputs. So if you want to use an input you have to convert the input to an output. I did this with the DI and Mix refill programming. The screenshot below is the output for the DI Low sensor. This does not drive an actual output so no output is assigned.

Below is the output for the DI full sensor. It is about the same as the one for the input other than the sensor used.

The next output is a Combiner type used to latch on the actual DI fill output until the storage tank is full. The DI low sensor is used to trigger this. The First input is the DI low output. The second input is the actual output that drives the DI fill solenoid. The Combiner Mode used is OR since we want this output on if either of the two inputs is active.

The next output is the actual DI fill output. It also uses the Combiner type. Input one is the latch output. Input 2 is the DI full output but it is inverted since we want an active signal when it is not active. The Combiner mode used here is AND since we want it to turn off if the full sensor is active. Since that input is inverted the combiner see it as inactive when active. This allows you to use DI until it gets low. The tank will be automatically refilled to the full float. The RODI units are more efficient when they make several gallons at a time instead of a little at a time frequently. My DI tank is just a 20 gallon Brute trash can.

Thanks for taking the time for the detailed responses. I’m expecting my parts on Monday. Looks like I’ll have some experimenting to do in order to make the most efficient use of my sensors. Now I’m not so sure the Combiner will simply do what I want it to do which is “If input Leak Detector sensor=wet OR input Water Level Sensor=wet then set output Solenoid Valve=off”. Seems like a pretty straightforward logic rule that would apply to all kinds of situations for many hobbyists?

 

[Voodoo99]

I am in the process of doing the same. I was hoping the sense module was soon to make it easier.
The solenoid would probably be fine after the prefilters on the RO unit. That is what I was planing anyway.
Goal is to fill a a freshwater container. Then automatically fill up a couple of ATO containers from there. I may go directly to sumps from the fresh water container though and use mechanical and a solenoid.

I have 3 sumps so it may be better to go to the ATO containers.

I really just started thinking about it.

I should have mentioned that my home was built with a whole home sediment filter installed at my mains. I think I’m going to go with installing my solenoid shut off before my rodi to hopefully mitigate as much risk as I can. The solenoids are not very expensive so if I have to replace it due to contaminant buildup once in a while it will be far cheaper than having my finished basement repaired. I’ll add a monthly test to my maintenance schedule and probably get a spare to have on hand. My setup is pretty simple. Cold water supply to my rodi, then to a 15 gal ato reservoir that has a float valve to control water input and a Tunze ato to output to my tank. So just trying to detect and act upon any leak between my faucet and the tank. I hope that I can then work on a phase 2 that will utilize the existing leak detector rope from phase 1 to also shut off my ato so that a tank or sump leak doesn’t cause my ato to keep pumping fresh water.