I am a fool bought a clown a petco and he has developed ich

[BigRedReefer MT]

I have been doing alot of research on quarantine tanks, since I was going to make the old 29g biocube one. Why 20g for the quarantine tank? I see tons of well renowned recommending 10g tanks at the beginning.

The reason a larger tank works well for a qt or ht is due to ammonia build up. The smaller the tank, the faster nh3 builds to stressful levels. This leaves you with daily water changes and stressing the fish makes them more susceptible to secondary afflictions. Plus it's like leaving a large dog in a crate for weeks at a time, it stresses them out and is not conducive to making them healthier.

 

[Aidanwolf]

The reason a larger tank works well for a qt or ht is due to ammonia build up. The smaller the tank, the faster nh3 builds to stressful levels. This leaves you with daily water changes and stressing the fish makes them more susceptible to secondary afflictions. Plus it's like leaving a large dog in a crate for weeks at a time, it stresses them out and is not conducive to making them healthier.

Thank you for all of your help.

 

[Reefmx]

What about Polyp Lab Medic?

Have seen many good reviews

 

[freshy&salty]

Ive always had FW tanks (4 right now) and I currently have one 16gal SW biocube.
Luckily for me (knock on wood) I havent had ich in the SW tank but I have had it in the FW tanks usually after longer power outages.
When it happens, i was always told to raise the temp in the tank to 82 degrees because ich doesnt do well at 82 and above. Ive done this everytime and have seen it clear up overnight even without any meds.
Instinctively if I were to get ich in the SW tank thats what i would do.
Ive always heard Id start seeing negative effects on "the reef" if it hit 84 degrees.
Would raising the temp not work the same to kill ich in the DT?

 

[BigRedReefer MT]

Ive always had FW tanks (4 right now) and I currently have one 16gal SW biocube.
Luckily for me (knock on wood) I havent had ich in the SW tank but I have had it in the FW tanks usually after longer power outages.
When it happens, i was always told to raise the temp in the tank to 82 degrees because ich doesnt do well at 82 and above. Ive done this everytime and have seen it clear up overnight even without any meds.
Instinctively if I were to get ich in the SW tank thats what i would do.
Ive always heard Id start seeing negative effects on "the reef" if it hit 84 degrees.
Would raising the temp not work the same to kill ich in the DT?

I'm not sure about this one as the two are different species of parasite, marine ich is cryptocaryon irritans while freshwater ich is ichthyophthirius multifiliis . The term ich for marine aquariums is used due to the similar symptoms and appearance to freshwater ich. The treatment, as far as meds, are also different.

 

[Fish_Sticks]

I have been doing alot of research on quarantine tanks, since I was going to make the old 29g biocube one. Why 20g for the quarantine tank? I see tons of well renowned recommending 10g tanks at the beginning.

Because a 20g is not that much more expensive and you have double the stability, double the room, and effectively cut any ammonia in half.

 

[Fish_Sticks]

Ive always had FW tanks (4 right now) and I currently have one 16gal SW biocube.
Luckily for me (knock on wood) I havent had ich in the SW tank but I have had it in the FW tanks usually after longer power outages.
When it happens, i was always told to raise the temp in the tank to 82 degrees because ich doesnt do well at 82 and above. Ive done this everytime and have seen it clear up overnight even without any meds.
Instinctively if I were to get ich in the SW tank thats what i would do.
Ive always heard Id start seeing negative effects on "the reef" if it hit 84 degrees.
Would raising the temp not work the same to kill ich in the DT?

I was always under the impression that the purpose of a higher temp was to increase the fish's metabolism and immune system.

 

[Wildreefs]

76 days: @Humblefish has a complete write up to help you out: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

Good luck. Many of us have been where you are now. I no longer put anything (including inverts) in my tank without treatment and/or at least quarantine for 76 days.

Better off nuking the tank and having it recycle. Should take 30 days or so, much quicker than the 72 days to wait it out.

Remove fish, algae, anything else alive and use a good amount of bleach through tank and equipment, remove bleach and let it recycle.
In the mean time you can ttm the clown, and by the time he is done and observed the tank should be cycled .

 

[freshy&salty]

I'm not sure about this one as the two are different species of parasite, marine ich is cryptocaryon irritans while freshwater ich is ichthyophthirius multifiliis . The term ich for marine aquariums is used due to the similar symptoms and appearance to freshwater ich. The treatment, as far as meds, are also different.

Ah ok. Having not had it in the marine tank, i honestly havent done alot of research on it.

 

[freshy&salty]

I'm not sure about this one as the two are different species of parasite, marine ich is cryptocaryon irritans while freshwater ich is ichthyophthirius multifiliis . The term ich for marine aquariums is used due to the similar symptoms and appearance to freshwater ich. The treatment, as far as meds, are also different.

Ah ok. Having not had it in the marine tank, i honestly havent done alot of research on it.

 

[Sashaka]

I have been doing alot of research on quarantine tanks, since I was going to make the old 29g biocube one. Why 20g for the quarantine tank? I see tons of well renowned recommending 10g tanks at the beginning.

Your old BioCube should work just fine. You have one small fish to quarantine or put in a sick tank, right? I use a 10 gal for small fish. Larger fish or multiple fish require a larger tank. Small tanks must be monitored closely because water quality can deteriorate more quickly; however, since I monitor any sick tank daily regardless whether it's a 10gal or a 75gal, I always know when to make adjustments. I also do regular weekly water changes on my sick tanks, removing 1/4 to 1/2 of old tank water and replacing with new. A water change in a 10 gal bare bottom tank for me is nothing compared to my regular schedule of 50 to 75 gallons for weekly maintenance. The key is to always have enough saltwater mix ready to do water changes as needed.

I've been reading all the great but differing responses here and I started thinking... The information IS great! Helpful! And maybe a little overwhelming? I remember looking for the quick, easy answer as a newbie to saltwater. I've discovered there really isn't ONE quick, easy answer for most issues that crop up in this hobby. All I can say is listen to the different options about quarantining and treating for disease and then do your homework. Search out experts who have had success with what you're trying to accomplish and then do more homework.

In the end, you need to decide if you want to manage ich in your tank or eradicate it. Many people choose to manage it and are successful doing this, but I was not able to tolerate any losses. Losing even one fish to ich, velvet, or other diseases was just too stressful for me...and expensive. I tried hyper-salinity, but it does not work on velvet. I don't have the time to do the tank transfer method because my schedule is too screwy. I finally chose to eliminate the threat once and for all by going fallow (fishless in the MD) and treating all new fish with copper or CP. For me, eradication was imperative after fighting off reoccurring infestations every time my electricity went out or a new fish or coral added caused a new outbreak. You need to decide what method you want to use and then do the best you can following the procedures outlined to make it work.

Glad to hear your clown is doing better. Please be aware that a fish that is suddenly visually free of ich does not mean that ich can not will not return in droves.
. https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/ich-cryptocaryon-irritans.191226/

 

[Aidanwolf]

Alright so I have the 29 Biocube full of water and am working on getting the salinity and temp set. I am going to add some bacteria in a bottle to jump start the cycleing process how long should I wait till I can add the clown? Also some of the ich has come back and I am going to go ahead and do a copper treatment.

 

[Sashaka]

Add a few pieces of PVC for the fish to hide in. It does not absorb copper. IMO, CopperPower is one of the safest coppers to use and all my fish...even sensitive fish like puffers and delicate wrasses like leopard wrasses tolerate it well. If it were me, I'd acclimate the fish to the BioCube now as it's more important to start treatment and worry about keeping up with water changes later...but be vigilant with the monitoring of an uncycled tank for ammonia/nitrite spiking. Keep in mind many people here ramp up the copper to medicinal strength over a period of a few days. A good range I like to keep my CopperPower is between 1.8 and 2. The bottle recommends 2.5, but that dose is really not needed unless you find your dealing with a stubborn strain...which is very rare IMO. In true emergencies (such as with velvet) the ramp up could be done over several hours.

As recommended once before, purchase an ammonia badge...not an ammonia test kit. Copper treatments render copper test kits false. Do water changes as needed. You'll be able to do fewer water changes if you can use some floss from the MD...no charcoal or other absorbing materials because it will reduce medication in the treated water. API copper test kits are very hard to read for many people. I highly recommend the Hanna high range digital copper checker @HotRocks and @4FordFamily have created a video to show how to use it: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...instruments-high-range-copper-checker.368943/. This video also suggests CopperPower as a safer treatment due to consistent levels of copper in each bottle compared to other brands, thus less chance of accidental overdosing and killing fish.

@Humblefish has expert advice about how to treat with copper: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/copper-treatment.193343/

I like to use a Brute garbage can with a circulation pump and a heater in it to keep saltwater for water changes ready at a moment's notice. RODI water is best if you have it. Don't use ammonia reducing treatments with copper as the combination will be toxic to your fish.

Good luck! Keep us updated about how things are going.

 

[Sashaka]

Add a few pieces of PVC for the fish to hide in.

To save time, I would have just used water from the MD tank so the salinity and temp would have been an exact match. The old water would have probably carried a bit of the necessary bacteria to help with the new cycle, but if you're starting with new saltwater mix, match the salinity and temp to your MD before adding the fish or acclimate the fish to the new tank with the drip method.

 

[Aidanwolf]

I would but the other tank is a 32g biocube lol.

 

[Sashaka]

I would but the other tank is a 32g biocube lol.

I see what you mean. Old water is limited. If you're in a hurry, you could just exchange half of one tank into the other and vs versa. Just recheck ph to make sure there is no big changes and adjust as needed

 

[Aidanwolf]

I see what you mean. Old water is limited. If you're in a hurry, you could just exchange half of one tank into the other and vs versa. Just recheck ph to make sure there is no big changes and adjust as needed

I also can't do this because a small dino outoutbreak has occurred lol. And doing water changes during an outbreak supposedly supply's nutrients to dino.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Alright so the clowns ich is back with a vengeance. I just added copper and beneficial bacteria to the QT and I am now acclimating him. This is the first time quarantining a fish so let's see how it goes. I don't have high hopes lol.

 

[Sashaka]

If the clown is eating, you still have a good chance of saving it. If very infested, the fish will weaken, so feed it its favorite foods to temp it to continue eating. Don't over feed in the tank or you'll polute the water faster. Add vitamins and probiotics to the food to keep its immune system built up. The ich on the fish will not be affected by the copper at first. Be patient. The ich will go through its normal cycle and when they enter the stage where they are free swimming again, the copper will get them! Careful, daily monitoring is important. Let us know how things work out. Good luck!

 

[Aidanwolf]

If the clown is eating, you still have a good chance of saving it. If very infested, the fish will weaken, so feed it its favorite foods to temp it to continue eating. Don't over feed in the tank or you'll polute the water faster. Add vitamins and probiotics to the food to keep its immune system built up. The ich on the fish will not be affected by the copper at first. Be patient. The ich will go through its normal cycle and when they enter the stage where they are free swimming again, the copper will get them! Careful, daily monitoring is important. Let us know how things work out. Good luck!

He has been in it over night and he seems fine, he is eating also.
I used the recommend dose on the cupramine bottle before reading that it is a good idea to use half the dose . So the next 48 hours I will not use as much.

 

[Aidanwolf]

Here is a pic of the at tank set up.