I have SPS now!

Vette67

Reefing since 1997
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
1,089
Reaction score
3,087
Location
North Olmsted, Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I do carbon dose. I was using a reactor. I tried using that reactor with PhosGaur, but could not get low enough. I use phosphate-e now. I have been putting carbon in a mesh bag, high flow area in my sump. Basically following Randy Holmes advice on carbon : ) I have a 200 gallon tank. I throw away half my carbon each time I change it out. And then add back in 1 cup... ish... every 2 weeks.
A couple things. First, just for clarification, and I apologize if you already know this. But I think it’s worth noting that there are actually 2 different kinds of carbon in reefing. The first is GAC (granular activated carbon). It is the black stuff that looks like charcoal. It is used to absorb impurities in your tank, like heavy metals (think copper). The second is referred to carbon dosing, and includes things like biopellets, and vodka. This is organic carbon. This kind is meant to increase nitrifying bacterial populations in your tank. As it grows and multiplies, it absorbs N and P. Then your skimmer removes the excess bacterial colonies from your water and the cycle repeats as you continue to add organic carbon. This is very effective and can strip nutrients from your water quickly. I use a biopellet reactor in my tank, and many would argue I run my nutrients too low, but it works for me.

As far as your chemistry is concerned, you look like you have that under control, for the most part. Your main values seem like they are stable enough that they shouldn’t cause you issues. I went through your build thread again and didn’t see any mention about how you cycled your tank. Did you do all dry base rock with bottled bacteria to culture your cycle? I ask because I think an often overlooked parameter in reefing is biodiversity, both macro and micro biodiversity. Macro includes things like sponges, pods, tunicates, worms (yes, bristleworms as well as micro tube worms), snails, micro stars, etc... these are more “measurable” because you can generally see them. You want tube worms and sponges growing In your sump, pods in your refugium, and small snails and stars crawling on your rocks.

The second one is less measurable, but I feel is even more important. Your bacterial levels and diversity in types is critical for a stable reef. The way to increase these types of things is by using real live rock, like the stuff aquacultured in the Gulf of Mexico. Think Tampa Bay Saltwater or KP Aquatics. This will bring in more life and diversity than you can even imagine. Yes, I would quarantine the rock, to try to limit bad pests from getting in, things like gorilla crabs and fire worms. The next best thing would be to add live mud and / or live sand. And this means the real stuff not the crap you get at Petco. Actual mud from the ocean, and actual sand from the ocean. Think places like Indo Pacific Sea Farms, or Florida Pets. If you are patient, you can actually measure your microbiome. A place called Aquabiomics can do bacterial DNA analysis. If you want to see an example of what Aquabiomics can do, check out my build thread.

Now, if you did start with live rock, then I am at a total loss. Perhaps you might still benefit from adding some live diversity, but it would seem that your initial additions would have handled that. So for sake of discussion, let us know how you cycled your tank. Sorry if you mentioned that already and I missed it.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
A couple things. First, just for clarification, and I apologize if you already know this. But I think it’s worth noting that there are actually 2 different kinds of carbon in reefing. The first is GAC (granular activated carbon). It is the black stuff that looks like charcoal. It is used to absorb impurities in your tank, like heavy metals (think copper). The second is referred to carbon dosing, and includes things like biopellets, and vodka. This is organic carbon. This kind is meant to increase nitrifying bacterial populations in your tank. As it grows and multiplies, it absorbs N and P. Then your skimmer removes the excess bacterial colonies from your water and the cycle repeats as you continue to add organic carbon. This is very effective and can strip nutrients from your water quickly. I use a biopellet reactor in my tank, and many would argue I run my nutrients too low, but it works for me.

As far as your chemistry is concerned, you look like you have that under control, for the most part. Your main values seem like they are stable enough that they shouldn’t cause you issues. I went through your build thread again and didn’t see any mention about how you cycled your tank. Did you do all dry base rock with bottled bacteria to culture your cycle? I ask because I think an often overlooked parameter in reefing is biodiversity, both macro and micro biodiversity. Macro includes things like sponges, pods, tunicates, worms (yes, bristleworms as well as micro tube worms), snails, micro stars, etc... these are more “measurable” because you can generally see them. You want tube worms and sponges growing In your sump, pods in your refugium, and small snails and stars crawling on your rocks.

The second one is less measurable, but I feel is even more important. Your bacterial levels and diversity in types is critical for a stable reef. The way to increase these types of things is by using real live rock, like the stuff aquacultured in the Gulf of Mexico. Think Tampa Bay Saltwater or KP Aquatics. This will bring in more life and diversity than you can even imagine. Yes, I would quarantine the rock, to try to limit bad pests from getting in, things like gorilla crabs and fire worms. The next best thing would be to add live mud and / or live sand. And this means the real stuff not the crap you get at Petco. Actual mud from the ocean, and actual sand from the ocean. Think places like Indo Pacific Sea Farms, or Florida Pets. If you are patient, you can actually measure your microbiome. A place called Aquabiomics can do bacterial DNA analysis. If you want to see an example of what Aquabiomics can do, check out my build thread.

Now, if you did start with live rock, then I am at a total loss. Perhaps you might still benefit from adding some live diversity, but it would seem that your initial additions would have handled that. So for sake of discussion, let us know how you cycled your tank. Sorry if you mentioned that already and I missed it.
No worries, this question has not been asked... and thank you for going thru my build thread : )

I initially put 300 lbs of live rock in my tank. Half was fresh from the ocean and ha
f was aquaculture in an LFS tank for over a year before going in my tank. I did initially add a bottle of.... something for bacteria. I honestly do not remember the name of the product. I bought it once, used it and have not bought it again.

The first two times I bought livestock, all I bought was cleanup crew. I have been following the idea that a large degree of biodiversity is always better. I started with 20 turbo snails, 10 conches, and 20 hermit crabs. The next week I added 20 more turbo snails (they were all really small) 10 narcisus snails. 2 cleaner shrimp, two red shrimp (they looked cool : ) and a few emerald crabs (my snowflake eel ended up eating all but one of the the crabs) I also have found at lease 3 brittle starfish that came in on my rock. Since then... I do not remember the name... I added 10 snails that eat diatom.

And then, in the pics below, (I do not remember their names) I have thousands of these things growing on the lower part of my back glass... It is impossible to clean them off where they are... and, they are a good part of my cleanup crew (I may have left something out...) oh, yeah... I’ve added copepods to my tank twice now. Ot all of the CUC survived the last 9 months. I’ve probably lost 1/3 of the snails...

183E7210-A6CC-4E65-B65F-19CAF7EE9C77.jpeg
 

Vette67

Reefing since 1997
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
1,089
Reaction score
3,087
Location
North Olmsted, Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
No worries, this question has not been asked... and thank you for going thru my build thread : )

I initially put 300 lbs of live rock in my tank. Half was fresh from the ocean and ha
f was aquaculture in an LFS tank for over a year before going in my tank. I did initially add a bottle of.... something for bacteria. I honestly do not remember the name of the product. I bought it once, used it and have not bought it again.

The first two times I bought livestock, all I bought was cleanup crew. I have been following the idea that a large degree of biodiversity is always better. I started with 20 turbo snails, 10 conches, and 20 hermit crabs. The next week I added 20 more turbo snails (they were all really small) 10 narcisus snails. 2 cleaner shrimp, two red shrimp (they looked cool : ) and a few emerald crabs (my snowflake eel ended up eating all but one of the the crabs) I also have found at lease 3 brittle starfish that came in on my rock. Since then... I do not remember the name... I added 10 snails that eat diatom.

And then, in the pics below, (I do not remember their names) I have thousands of these things growing on the lower part of my back glass... It is impossible to clean them off where they are... and, they are a good part of my cleanup crew (I may have left something out...) oh, yeah... I’ve added copepods to my tank twice now. Ot all of the CUC survived the last 9 months. I’ve probably lost 1/3 of the snails...

183E7210-A6CC-4E65-B65F-19CAF7EE9C77.jpeg
That picture is absolutely beautiful. That is the type of diversity that I would want to see. My sump has those exact same tube worms (small feather duster worms) growing in it, literally by the thousands. Good job leaving them alone. Continue doing that.

Wow then. That really does stump me. I would think you have the micro biodiversity handled, with the addition of that much live rock. That is a great way to start. As someone that has been using halide lighting, I don’t have any recommendations on handling your LED’s. I’ll leave that to the others that have responded to your thread. Because it would seem to me that lighting could be the only thing that might kill the coral quickly. Although, maybe an ICP test will yield some surprising results. It is too bad you’re all the way in Texas, because I would gladly give you some frags that I have had for years. I have some pretty hardy purple stylo that I could break pieces off multiple times, until you got things figured out. If you have access to cheap frags, it might be worth trying to see if you can keep one alive without losing too much money.

Sorry to hear about the problems. We all understand the frustration. This hobby is full of it. I have had some bad bouts with Ich that cost me easily a thousand dollars in lost fish, and I almost left the hobby because of it. Be persistent and don’t give up.
 

stephj03

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
1,210
Reaction score
1,026
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Does your PO4 value drift back up after the initial drop from Lanthanum dosing (Phosphate E)?

If so how much of a rise and how fast? How often are you adding?

When I used Lanthanum in the past I experienced a significant short drop in alk and my PO4 drifted back up from .09-.18

My sticks were mad at me the entire time until PO4 finally went back into balance and Lanthanum was no longer needed.

Maybe try a manual Alk test on your trident just before and also 20-30min after adding.


There's a guy in your neck of the woods that keeps a lot of high end Acros with elevated nutrients named Chaswood79 . Maybe drop him a line for some local input.
 

stephj03

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
1,210
Reaction score
1,026
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If your ICP looks normal I would normally think lack of biodiversity on a 9mo old tank. But you had a boat load of real live rock.

It would be easy to just add a couple of different bottles bacteria (prodibio etc).

I'd still put my money on mini swings for All/PO4 due to the Lanthanum being applied in the presence of significant PO4 bound up in the rocks from prior overfeeding.hth
 

dohc97

Active Member
View Badges
Joined
Sep 22, 2006
Messages
353
Reaction score
409
Location
Plano
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I want nothing but to see you do good and I do not mean anything bad with my posts. I am an old school guy and sometimes you just have to let a tank mature before going sps. I have lost tens of thousands in both sps and fish and I do not always suggest my methods but have had the best success when I just let things be. Currently my reef is growing very well with minimal intervention, I hardly test anything, just have a good schedule of dosing and water changes and do not mess with anything. I know from experience that my phosphates are high so color isn't all there but my sticks are fuzzy, growing like weeds and fish are plump. There are a million ways to reef and be successful and the current trend seems to be to keep tabs on everything and instantly react to any deviation. This creates perfect environments that crash very easily when you do not catch an event or have a temp spike, etc..
my reef fluctuates in temps 2-3 degrees a day, yet because my corals are used to it I get less issues. Temp spiked 5 degrees when my ac went out, sps just kept on ticking. My suggestion would be to see the water test results, correct the issue if something is found and then go back to just trying the easiest of sps, a green slimer frag. Grow that well for 3-4 months and then you can get something a bit more delicate, grow that for months and you will be in business. Enjoy your hobby and I'll get out of your thread.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Does your PO4 value drift back up after the initial drop from Lanthanum dosing (Phosphate E)?

If so how much of a rise and how fast? How often are you adding?

When I used Lanthanum in the past I experienced a significant short drop in alk and my PO4 drifted back up from .09-.18

My sticks were mad at me the entire time until PO4 finally went back into balance and Lanthanum was no longer needed.

Maybe try a manual Alk test on your trident just before and also 20-30min after adding.


There's a guy in your neck of the woods that keeps a lot of high end Acros with elevated nutrients named Chaswood79 . Maybe drop him a line for some local input.
You asked a tough question... I mean, I know how to answer it. I have not been testing in the manner you described above. I am using .7 ml per day And my PO4 stays between .1 and .03. If it is causing a drop in my Alk, I am not not seeing it. I am dosing Alk on an automated basis. My dosing system may be recovering a drop in Alk without me noticing.

I will play with some testing today and see if I can get a better answer for you.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
If your ICP looks normal I would normally think lack of biodiversity on a 9mo old tank. But you had a boat load of real live rock.

It would be easy to just add a couple of different bottles bacteria (prodibio etc).

I'd still put my money on mini swings for All/PO4 due to the Lanthanum being applied in the presence of significant PO4 bound up in the rocks from prior overfeeding.hth
It did take me quite awhile to get my PO4 down into an acceptable range. PhosGaurd in a reactor could not get it down far enough on its own. I stopped using the PhosGaurd.

I also started using a turkey blaster to blow everything off my rock every day... IE detritus in all the little holes.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I want nothing but to see you do good and I do not mean anything bad with my posts. I am an old school guy and sometimes you just have to let a tank mature before going sps. I have lost tens of thousands in both sps and fish and I do not always suggest my methods but have had the best success when I just let things be. Currently my reef is growing very well with minimal intervention, I hardly test anything, just have a good schedule of dosing and water changes and do not mess with anything. I know from experience that my phosphates are high so color isn't all there but my sticks are fuzzy, growing like weeds and fish are plump. There are a million ways to reef and be successful and the current trend seems to be to keep tabs on everything and instantly react to any deviation. This creates perfect environments that crash very easily when you do not catch an event or have a temp spike, etc..
my reef fluctuates in temps 2-3 degrees a day, yet because my corals are used to it I get less issues. Temp spiked 5 degrees when my ac went out, sps just kept on ticking. My suggestion would be to see the water test results, correct the issue if something is found and then go back to just trying the easiest of sps, a green slimer frag. Grow that well for 3-4 months and then you can get something a bit more delicate, grow that for months and you will be in business. Enjoy your hobby and I'll get out of your thread.
I like your approach and to be honest, I really am trying to do as little as possible. I have not really been “instantly” reacting to minor changes... at least not until all my SPS started dying mI did have a few knee-jerk reaction When that started happening... Every water parameters I have is what is happening in my tank... almost all by itself. For example... If I see my calcium drop from 450 down to 430 Over a period of a few days... I just tell my Apex to dose an additional 2 ml per by changing the number on the app... then I just watch for a few days to see if I get the desired results.

My only real fight has been PO4. I changed my feeding habits as much as I can without starving everything... yes, I probably am still over feeding : )
 

stephj03

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
1,210
Reaction score
1,026
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
It did take me quite awhile to get my PO4 down into an acceptable range. PhosGaurd in a reactor could not get it down far enough on its own. I stopped using the PhosGaurd.

I also started using a turkey blaster to blow everything off my rock every day... IE detritus in all the little holes.


I can def relate to that. I was burning through GFO so I switched to Lanthanum and had to dose for a while to let a bunch of PO4 leech back out of the rocks and precipitate before things found a happy place.

I would see how high Chaswood has run his. I think it was pretty high and he wasn't a fan of a lot of chemicals that lower it. If your in the range he keeps at your current high point maybe let it be and see whY happens.
 

stephj03

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
1,210
Reaction score
1,026
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
And find the courage to order a battlebox when you feel ready to re-load.



It sounds counter intuitive but online vendors like Battle are known for better customer service, hardier corals and ultimately more reliably positive outcomes.

They build their brand on public feedback on the forums so you're much more likely to get setup with a pack that fits your situation.

What you spent $1k on at the LFS would prob have been $500-$700 max, and it would all have come from a coral farm that's been producing frags for yrs.

Even if you have to take a morning off from work to receive the box it's worth it.

Same deal with the high end hobbyist sellers like Therman.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
And find the courage to order a battlebox when you feel ready to re-load.



It sounds counter intuitive but online vendors like Battle are known for better customer service, hardier corals and ultimately more reliably positive outcomes.

They build their brand on public feedback on the forums so you're much more likely to get setup with a pack that fits your situation.

What you spent $1k on at the LFS would prob have been $500-$700 max, and it would all have come from a coral farm that's been producing frags for yrs.

Even if you have to take a morning off from work to receive the box it's worth it.

Same deal with the high end hobbyist sellers like Therman.
Well.. I have kind of lost faith in my LFSs products now... if nothing comes back out of whack on the water test I sent in, then I will not go back to that store... or unless we figure out that I am definitely doing something wrong.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
That picture is absolutely beautiful. That is the type of diversity that I would want to see. My sump has those exact same tube worms (small feather duster worms) growing in it, literally by the thousands. Good job leaving them alone. Continue doing that.

Wow then. That really does stump me. I would think you have the micro biodiversity handled, with the addition of that much live rock. That is a great way to start. As someone that has been using halide lighting, I don’t have any recommendations on handling your LED’s. I’ll leave that to the others that have responded to your thread. Because it would seem to me that lighting could be the only thing that might kill the coral quickly. Although, maybe an ICP test will yield some surprising results. It is too bad you’re all the way in Texas, because I would gladly give you some frags that I have had for years. I have some pretty hardy purple stylo that I could break pieces off multiple times, until you got things figured out. If you have access to cheap frags, it might be worth trying to see if you can keep one alive without losing too much money.

Sorry to hear about the problems. We all understand the frustration. This hobby is full of it. I have had some bad bouts with Ich that cost me easily a thousand dollars in lost fish, and I almost left the hobby because of it. Be persistent and don’t give up.
Oh yeah... I did not know that about carbon dosing... I am just using activated carbon in a mesh bag right now. A following Randy ahomes’ advice on that. Roughly, 1 cup of new carbon and throw out half of my old carbon... I only do that when my water looks yellow... about once a month or so.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I want nothing but to see you do good and I do not mean anything bad with my posts. I am an old school guy and sometimes you just have to let a tank mature before going sps. I have lost tens of thousands in both sps and fish and I do not always suggest my methods but have had the best success when I just let things be. Currently my reef is growing very well with minimal intervention, I hardly test anything, just have a good schedule of dosing and water changes and do not mess with anything. I know from experience that my phosphates are high so color isn't all there but my sticks are fuzzy, growing like weeds and fish are plump. There are a million ways to reef and be successful and the current trend seems to be to keep tabs on everything and instantly react to any deviation. This creates perfect environments that crash very easily when you do not catch an event or have a temp spike, etc..
my reef fluctuates in temps 2-3 degrees a day, yet because my corals are used to it I get less issues. Temp spiked 5 degrees when my ac went out, sps just kept on ticking. My suggestion would be to see the water test results, correct the issue if something is found and then go back to just trying the easiest of sps, a green slimer frag. Grow that well for 3-4 months and then you can get something a bit more delicate, grow that for months and you will be in business. Enjoy your hobby and I'll get out of your thread.
lol...You do not need to get out of my thread!
 

Vette67

Reefing since 1997
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2017
Messages
1,089
Reaction score
3,087
Location
North Olmsted, Ohio
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Oh yeah... I did not know that about carbon dosing... I am just using activated carbon in a mesh bag right now. A following Randy ahomes’ advice on that. Roughly, 1 cup of new carbon and throw out half of my old carbon... I only do that when my water looks yellow... about once a month or so.
Glad at least part of my post was helpful! If you have a strong enough skimmer, it may be worth looking into organic carbon dosing. Then you could get rid of the lanthanum. But if you use biopellets those could take weeks before you notice improvements. Otherwise, there is a lot of threads out there about vodka dosing. Of course, lanthanum works too. Just like an algae scrubber and refugium. There’s generally no need to run both. They both accomplish the same thing. Of course, that’s even a third option for naturally reducing nutrients. Isn’t this hobby confusing? Lanthanum, vodka, refugium, and ATS all *generally* accomplish the same thing; reduce N & P. You just need to find what works for you. I prefer the natural methods where I am not dosing anything by hand, because I’m lazy and don’t want to have to manually dose anything! I do run really low nutrients with a 40 gallon reverse photo-period refugium full of chaeto and a biopellet reactor.

So you just have to tinker around and figure out your preferred method of nutrient export. Find what works best for you.
 

joseserrano

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Messages
3,330
Reaction score
1,613
Location
Santa ana, CA
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I gave you this advice a while back in another thread. Follow someone who you admire their tank and corals. These threads are going to continue to confuse you and add more doubt and frustration. Read some comments on par and sps. I have seen nice corals in 200 par and. Nice corals in a 1000 plus par. Both can be done, but typically are also paired with particular water chemistry levels and flow. Both which are length and very in depth topics.
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
I gave you this advice a while back in another thread. Follow someone who you admire their tank and corals. These threads are going to continue to confuse you and add more doubt and frustration. Read some comments on par and sps. I have seen nice corals in 200 par and. Nice corals in a 1000 plus par. Both can be done, but typically are also paired with particular water chemistry levels and flow. Both which are length and very in depth topics.
I am seeing that to be true. Thank you for reminding me about that! That is something I am going to do!
 
OP
OP
Shawn_epicurious

Shawn_epicurious

Valuable Member
View Badges
Joined
Mar 1, 2020
Messages
1,707
Reaction score
2,981
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Glad at least part of my post was helpful! If you have a strong enough skimmer, it may be worth looking into organic carbon dosing. Then you could get rid of the lanthanum. But if you use biopellets those could take weeks before you notice improvements. Otherwise, there is a lot of threads out there about vodka dosing. Of course, lanthanum works too. Just like an algae scrubber and refugium. There’s generally no need to run both. They both accomplish the same thing. Of course, that’s even a third option for naturally reducing nutrients. Isn’t this hobby confusing? Lanthanum, vodka, refugium, and ATS all *generally* accomplish the same thing; reduce N & P. You just need to find what works for you. I prefer the natural methods where I am not dosing anything by hand, because I’m lazy and don’t want to have to manually dose anything! I do run really low nutrients with a 40 gallon reverse photo-period refugium full of chaeto and a biopellet reactor.

So you just have to tinker around and figure out your preferred method of nutrient export. Find what works best for you.
You always have good advice Vette! I absolutely want something more natural for the long term. I have been running out of room under my tank. My cabinet is full! I’ve been thinking I could put a refugium in my laundry/fish room... it’s the wall behind my tank : ) The lanthanum got me to where I need to be. I don’t want to use it as a long term solution.
 

Ashish Patel

2500 Club Member
View Badges
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Messages
3,216
Reaction score
2,575
Location
Marlboro NJ
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
ahh. I remember adding my first SPS. Why buy small SPS Frags when I can buy large colonies from Liveaquaria for same price. I'll tell you why - because even when your a pro they just don't do well when they get into our reef tanks. I've come to realize that these nearly always carry pest and may only survive when chopped up into 20 pc in hopes of one surviving - something vendors do. Good luck and keep at it!
 

Mastering the art of locking and unlocking water pathways: What type of valves do you have on your aquarium plumbing?

  • Ball valves.

    Votes: 38 47.5%
  • Gate valves.

    Votes: 42 52.5%
  • Check valves.

    Votes: 16 20.0%
  • None.

    Votes: 21 26.3%
  • Other.

    Votes: 8 10.0%
Back
Top