I put cyano and GHA in my tank on purpose...

[saltyfilmfolks]

I’m pretty sure it was Dino’s at one point and it kind of looks like a mix of cyano as well but i know there are other types of algae out there

Yea, there’s a lot of debate on best right now. A lot is constant spending , microscope dosing etc.

What I is see in common with all of them is this, keep nutrients up and detectable without overdoing it, avoid carbon dosing and foods that are easily used by bacterias(aminos vitamin c a lot of the coral foods), manual removal (siphon , canister filters or reactors with floss cleaned weekly along with turkey basters blowing it around , peroxide or other oxidizers, bacterial additions , bio diversity additions(Fuji mud , garf grunge etc).

 

[Artillerydrill]

Yea, there’s a lot of debate on best right now. A lot is constant spending , microscope dosing etc.

What I is see in common with all of them is this, keep nutrients up and detectable without overdoing it, avoid carbon dosing and foods that are easily used by bacterias(aminos vitamin c a lot of the coral foods), manual removal (siphon , canister filters or reactors with floss cleaned weekly along with turkey basters blowing it around , peroxide or other oxidizers, bacterial additions , bio diversity additions(Fuji mud , garf grunge etc).

Thanks i made the mistake of dosing Red Sea A and B yesterday and the algae really visibly stood out after that, have you had experience with chemi clean?

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Thanks i made the mistake of dosing Red Sea A and B yesterday and the algae really visibly stood out after that, have you had experience with chemi clean?

No. I’ve never used chemiclean.
I decided to do it the “hard way” and have never lost the battle. I’m a bit twisted that way.

A lot of folks do swear by it though.

 

[Artillerydrill]

No. I’ve never used chemiclean.
I decided to do it the “hard way” and have never lost the battle. I’m a bit twisted that way.

A lot of folks do swear by it though.

Hats off to you i believe i will go the hard way as well for as long as i can possibly stand it

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Hats off to you i believe i will go the hard way as well for as long as i can possibly stand it

A little of this a little of that and patience.

But yea. Sometimes it’s nice to drop the Nuke.

Look up the cyano peroxide test for cyano.
And also the coffe filter test for Dino’s.
While you wait. Lol.

 

[Artillerydrill]

A little of this a little of that and patience.

But yea. Sometimes it’s nice to drop the Nuke.

Look up the cyano peroxide test for cyano.
And also the coffe filter test for Dino’s.
While you wait. Lol.

I tried getting what i could today and putting it in 3% peroxide but the stuff is so flimsy it falls apart, drifts away etc. from what i could tell it didn’t bubble so i guess no cyano if that’s the case m. Haven’t heard of the other coffee filter test I’ll google it

 

[Artillerydrill]

Algae starts to creep back in when the lights come on...

 

[Will Milberger]

Possible new tank imbalance. Also open window across from tank?

 

[Artillerydrill]

Possible new tank imbalance. Also open window across from tank?

Yea it’s an open top rimless

 

[Artillerydrill]

Nitrate is between 1-5ppm

 

[Artillerydrill]

Po4 is very low

So with these numbers it’s hard for me to imagine i should have thought a huge algae outbreak unless of course it’s in balance

 

[Cscultho]

Highly suspect dinos is the algae you are battling.

You have all the characteristics of a dino outbreak.

 

[Artillerydrill]

Highly suspect dinos is the algae you are battling.

You have all the characteristics of a dino outbreak.

I agree

 

[brandon429]

Always look at challenge tanks as little disassembly puzzles in my opinion


the non invader details of full tank shots are gold data



If your tank was a nano it would be uninvaded yesterday with a simple sand rinse via takedown. You have a very simple invader to fix, for nanos.

This tanks got water volume, big work. though you could still fix this tank like the others we collect (the bed as is cannot pass a clouding test I'll bet) but that amnt of takedown work isn't welcomed and people want efficiency


on to puzzle mode... what stands out above regarding your tank assembly, not the invader:

You did the rare move of not blasting that tank with live rock stacks. You have the most accessible rock stack I've seen in a larger tank. The rest is open space for catching fish

So as you try other incremental approaches leading up to a possible eventual big arrest cleaning mode we've documented fifty times, one of the increments could be: rocks lifted out and held in bucket

Fish netted out held elsewhere for a sec

In two strokes you just took real estate back by isolating your sensitives since there's no constant rock wall for them to hide and be injured in

Now it's you, that sand and water, and five times the amnt of meds you were allowed to try with fish and your biofilter in place. Then you can make a real peroxide party and burn the invader down, surpassing all acceptable doses of safety where fish are involved.


Rinse rocks well before put back, don't reimport.

There's a reason our thread below here never uses the method I mentioned above though that will kill the invader with least work, you can keep the old water. Our method makes your sandbed pass a clouding drop test, which makes the invader not show up in the first place as a commanding takeover. our method exports the invader mass, with a brisk water change too, the above method breaks down the invader mass in the tank water, yuck. We should do the hard job as the first go.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ead-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445


Do consider not using the sand as mentioned above, sand is problematic for reef tanks hence your invasion (paradigm challenge to 1998 levied heh)

Ironically I will never be without a deep sand bed (it passes a clouding test) due to looks, bare bottoms tanks look like fully dressed people without shoes.

 

[Artillerydrill]

Always look at challenge tanks as little disassembly puzzles in my opinion


the non invader details of full tank shots are gold data



If your tank was a nano it would be uninvaded yesterday with a simple sand rinse via takedown. You have a very simple invader to fix, for nanos.

This tanks got water volume, big work. though you could still fix this tank like the others we collect (the bed as is cannot pass a clouding test I'll bet) but that amnt of takedown work isn't welcomed and people want efficiency


on to puzzle mode... what stands out above regarding your tank assembly, not the invader:

You did the rare move of not blasting that tank with live rock stacks. You have the most accessible rock stack I've seen in a larger tank. The rest is open space for catching fish

So as you try other incremental approaches leading up to a possible eventual big arrest cleaning mode we've documented fifty times, one of the increments could be: rocks lifted out and held in bucket

Fish netted out held elsewhere for a sec

In two strokes you just took real estate back by isolating your sensitives since there's no constant rock wall for them to hide and be injured in

Now it's you, that sand and water, and five times the amnt of meds you were allowed to try with fish and your biofilter in place. Then you can make a real peroxide party and burn the invader down, surpassing all acceptable doses of safety where fish are involved.


Rinse rocks well before put back, don't reimport.

There's a reason our thread below here never uses the method I mentioned above though that will kill the invader with least work, you can keep the old water. Our method makes your sandbed pass a clouding drop test, which makes the invader not show up in the first place as a commanding takeover. our method exports the invader mass, with a brisk water change too, the above method breaks down the invader mass in the tank water, yuck. We should do the hard job as the first go.

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/t...ead-aka-one-against-many.230281/#post-2681445

I’m not apposed to doing this and it would probably be a last attempt situation being that i have places that i can store my rock coral and the fish can go back into QT. But like you said it’s a somewhat monumental undertaking. What levels of h202 are we talking for 175g total volume and how long until i could reintroduce fish and corals?

 

[Daniel@R2R]

Fascinating discussion already...

 

[Keiffer the reefer]

I recently battled this. An alk swing sent many corals in a dive then cyano broke out. I used chemiclean to nuke the cyano. This also kills some types of sponges so I got a silicate spike and Dino’s followed quickly. I started blasting all the rocks with a turkey baster mid day and immediately dose h2o2 to stress it out while in suspension. Every time I dose h2o2 it crash my orp. If orp recovered by lights out, I’d dose again to attach the Dino’s that naturally go into the water at night. I also changed my filter socks daily, changed out carbon weekly and restabilized alk. Took about 3-4 weeks for my tank to come around.

 

[cumbeje]

I think one problem is that we drive down phosphate to low. Mostly because it is so easy to do with phosphate removers. This than creates an nutrient imbalance/ratio that other algae will use. For example GHA uses phosphates first but will use nitrates as secondary source. Drive down phosphates to 0 and you have higher nitrates you will see a potential growth of GHA with as little as 8 ppm nitrates. I really think phosphates should be kept at a higher ratio of around .06-08 with nitrates in the 5 to 10 ppm range. I have seen this first hand and have talked to lots of reefers who have seen the same.

 

[Artillerydrill]

I think one problem is that we drive down phosphate to low. Mostly because it is so easy to do with phosphate removers. This than creates an nutrient imbalance/ratio that other algae will use. For example GHA uses phosphates first but will use nitrates as secondary source. Drive down phosphates to 0 and you have higher nitrates you will see a potential growth of GHA with as little as 8 ppm nitrates. I really think phosphates should be kept at a higher ratio of around .06-08 with nitrates in the 5 to 10 ppm range. I have seen this first hand and have talked to lots of reefers who have seen the same.

I’ll shoot for those number i have phosphate and nitrate stuff coming in the mail today

 

[cumbeje]

This is why some swear about ULN because than they feel that they don't have to worry about anything because there are no nutrients at all for anything to grow. That's not easy to do if you have fish. i also think that you have a lot of starving corals potentially.