Ice Cap Kalkwasser Reactor Use Inquiry

rhostam · May 11, 2021

Hi there,

I have an IceCap Kalkwasser reactor that I put to use several months ago. It's been great for helping me maintain a remarkably stable pH as well as alkalinity.

Unfortunately, my setup is a bit strange and I encounter relatively frequent problems with it overflowing from the cap. In an unrelated post, I asked if that lid was supposed to threaded or not. The answer I got was that it is just a cover, not air/liquid tight.

I have a closet behind my AIO tank. Being an AIO, I can't exactly place the reactor right next to the DP and having it dose as expected. Instead, I thought I would be clever and position the reactor higher than DP water level and in the closet just behind the tank as close as I could get it. The total distance from the outlet of the reactor to the DP sump is about 3 feet (diagonally). There are no kinks and the flow path is in constant decline (no ups/bends/twists in the dosing tube).

The input to the reactor is connected to a Neptune DOS which is scheduled to provide X ml of RODI throughout the day provided some conditions are met (i.e. pH and Alk don't exceed a specific threshold, dose no more than 30 seconds at a time, waiting 15 min between doses, maintenance mode, or other conditions that turn off returns, etc).

Weeks can go by without a hitch. I periodically check the reactor (days sometimes up to a week) to make sure the KW hasn't built up and clogged the outlet port. I use a pipe cleaning brush to do this. It does seem to clog frequently enough to be a problem. When I notice that DOS shows large amounts of volume without a corresponding increase in pH or Alk that there is probably an issue. Sure enough, the issue is usually that the reactor is overflowing. If I jiggle the outlet tubing just right sometimes the fluid comes out in a torrent or it trickles. I can then clean the ends of the tubing or check the outlet port again.

In order to minimize clogging, I only have the reactor stir for about 5 minutes once a day with an hour-long settling period. During this time no KW is dosed.

So the questions I have are:

Should I expect my configuration to work?
Is there something I haven't considered (other than the distance) that might lead to this behavior?

I recently put the reactor in a container resting on firm foam pads so that I could catch it overflowing if it happened again. Not a day later, it overflowed again.

My application may not simply be optimal. I see YouTube videos showing the units placed directly next to sumps minimizing any travel or tubing.

Thankfully, the recent occurrences haven't caused damage, but they were messy. I will likely move this unit to the tank in my build thread that is presently underway, but until that happens I'd like to see if I could keep using it where it is. If not, I'll have to find another solution to my problem. I've even thought about adding an optical sensor to the mixing chamber! But then that doesn't solve the problem.

I've attached a few pictures to show what is going on (including the container that caught the overflow from today's incident).

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

TX_Punisher · May 11, 2021

I’m unfamiliar with this reactor. Is it designed to be pressurized? can It be reconfigured to be drawn thru from the DOS?

I use my old PM kalk reactor the same way with my DOS but it’s tightly sealed and designed to be pressurized thus I see no leaks. It sounds like the cap just sitting on top as you stated won’t provide an air tight seal while the DOS is creating pressure this leading to an overflow situation.

rhostam · May 11, 2021

TX_Punisher said:
I’m unfamiliar with this reactor. Is it designed to be pressurized? can It be reconfigured to be drawn thru from the DOS?

I use my old PM kalk reactor the same way with my DOS but it’s tightly sealed and designed to be pressurized thus I see no leaks. It sounds like the cap just sitting on top as you stated won’t provide an air tight seal while the DOS is creating pressure this leading to an overflow situation.

Yeah. Apparently not designed to be pressurized. If I were to pull from reactor instead (clever idea), I would definitely need to create a seal. Of course, then I would also not have this problem. Hehe.

Something to think about!

What brand is PM short for? I might check one out for the AIO. I can move the Ice Cap to the new tank.

TX_Punisher · May 11, 2021

Precision marine. All the baller reefers from the 90s rocked their stuff

It still works!

KStatefan · May 12, 2021

Do you have the output restricted at all?

PanhandleReef · May 12, 2021

Mine does the same thing. I don't know if it is a surface tension thing that keeps the water from exiting the reactor or what, but it will over flow if not careful. I started using my ato to basically clean the tube when it kicks on and I haven't had the problem since. May just be that I'm more vigilant now. I noticed if you lift up the fill lid every now and then it helps with the air lock also, so I started gently setting it on at a slight angle. I'm doing a new build right now and it's such a pain in the rear I may switch to Avast reactor so I don't have to deal with it.

rhostam · May 12, 2021

KStatefan said:
Do you have the output restricted at all?

I don't believe so. I am going to try changing tubing out. But from what I can tell, I don't think there is any build-up or clogs. When I notice the reactor water level sitting higher than the output (but not yet overflowing) sometimes all I need to do is tap the end of the tube attached to the output it all drains immediately.

rhostam · May 12, 2021

PanhandleReef said:
Mine does the same thing. I don't know if it is a surface tension thing that keeps the water from exiting the reactor or what, but it will over flow if not careful. I started using my ato to basically clean the tube when it kicks on and I haven't had the problem since. May just be that I'm more vigilant now. I noticed if you lift up the fill lid every now and then it helps with the air lock also, so I started gently setting it on at a slight angle. I'm doing a new build right now and it's such a pain in the rear I may switch to Avast reactor so I don't have to deal with it.

I've thought the exact same thing re: surface tension due to the film and also just resting the cap of the reactor gently so as to not create a vacuum.

Can you describe what you mean by "started using my ato to basically clean the tube?"

Also checking on the Avast reactor. I am assuming Avast Marine Works? I have their feeder and it works quite well - my tank inhabitants have never been happier.

PanhandleReef · May 12, 2021

rhostam said:
I've thought the exact same thing re: surface tension due to the film and also just resting the cap of the reactor gently so as to not create a vacuum.

Can you describe what you mean by "started using my ato to basically clean the tube?"

Also checking on the Avast reactor. I am assuming Avast Marine Works? I have their feeder and it works quite well - my tank inhabitants have never been happier.

I have a Y attached to the hose with the ato line attached to one and reactor attached to the other. As long as the tube is unrestricted the fresh ato water flows out the reactor tube and flushes it out every time the ato kicks on. Still have to be careful though because if the hose gets clogged all the ato water will go into reactor. I also had the the ato line zip tied to the reactor line at one time and just the water flowing down the side and across the exit seemed to work also since that’s where the build up typically is.

PanhandleReef · May 12, 2021

I have seen pictures of people attaching a 90 degree elbow on the inside and they said that helped prevent the gunk stopping water from making it out. I was going to try that also but haven’t tracked down an elbow that would work. It really shouldn’t be this much of a pain so I’ll more than likely move on from it.

rhostam · May 12, 2021

PanhandleReef said:
I have a Y attached to the hose with the ato line attached to one and reactor attached to the other. As long as the tube is unrestricted the fresh ato water flows out the reactor tube and flushes it out every time the ato kicks on. Still have to be careful though because if the hose gets clogged all the ato water will go into reactor. I also had the the ato line zip tied to the reactor line at one time and just the water flowing down the side and across the exit seemed to work also since that’s where the build up typically is.

Neat idea.

I saw a video (I thought BRSTV) that suggested putting the reactor in line with the ATO.

So, ATO --> Reactor --> Sump.

I loved the idea and I tried it, but I forgot about the pressure of the ATO pump (Neptune PMUP). Big mess. I may also try gluing the cap on. My only concern with this setup is that if I remove large volumes of water, I may introduce more KW than the tank requires in one fell swoop. Having the KW reactor decoupled is convenient for that reason.

PanhandleReef said:
I have seen pictures of people attaching a 90 degree elbow on the inside and they said that helped prevent the gunk stopping water from making it out. I was going to try that also but haven’t tracked down an elbow that would work. It really shouldn’t be this much of a pain so I’ll more than likely move on from it.

Agreed. I noticed the Avast uses an elbow inside the tank for its gravity-fed drain. Perhaps that is how they mitigate the gunk build-up at the waterline. Maybe that is an avenue to pursue. Just need to find the right part. Time to go shopping.

KStatefan · May 13, 2021

rhostam said:
Neat idea.

I saw a video (I thought BRSTV) that suggested putting the reactor in line with the ATO.

So, ATO --> Reactor --> Sump.

I loved the idea and I tried it, but I forgot about the pressure of the ATO pump (Neptune PMUP). Big mess. I may also try gluing the cap on. My only concern with this setup is that if I remove large volumes of water, I may introduce more KW than the tank requires in one fell swoop. Having the KW reactor decoupled is convenient for that reason.

Agreed. I noticed the Avast uses an elbow inside the tank for its gravity-fed drain. Perhaps that is how they mitigate the gunk build-up at the waterline. Maybe that is an avenue to pursue. Just need to find the right part. Time to go shopping.

The Avast is also using a much bigger opening

PanhandleReef · May 13, 2021

I don't use the ato method to feed the reactor because I prefer to have better control of how much I'm putting into the system. Currently I use a BRS 50 ml doser controlled with apex. I'm certain the problem is the 1/4" elbow so an option may be just removing that and drilling it out a little to put in a 1/2" like the Avast.

rhostam · May 13, 2021

PanhandleReef said:
I don't use the ato method to feed the reactor because I prefer to have better control of how much I'm putting into the system. Currently I use a BRS 50 ml doser controlled with apex. I'm certain the problem is the 1/4" elbow so an option may be just removing that and drilling it out a little to put in a 1/2" like the Avast.

Great idea.

Comic_Reef · Sep 10, 2022

Old post but thought I'd post on here my solution to the icecap output issue.

First, in my experience, due to the tubing being small you have to have a need for a decent about of kalk for it to be useful out of the box. Due to the design, it will only dispense after the water level in the reactor reaches a certain height above the output hole in the reactor. Once it rises enough, the pressure of the water within the reactor will break the surface tension in the tube and dispense it, siphoning out everything above the output within the reactor, not doing so again until the water level on the reactor rises to that height again.

For those with lower demand, this can be problematic as it can build up and dispense a day or twos kalk all at one time, jumping ph and causing alk swings. Especially if it decides to release right after the kalk got stirred.

For me, this caused me to shut down the reactor for a bit while starting my tank because it was causing issues.

Luckily, you can pretty easily convert it into a pressurized reactor and be done with this issue. The top is secured by an o-ring, a lid and some thumb screws. I simply cut a small piece of plexiglass large enought to sit between the lid and the o-ring and tightened the screws down to seal the top. With this tight seal, the reactor will always maintain a level of pressure and you will get that nice even drip you are looking for. Also gets rid of the need for adding an internal elbow, as since it's no longer gravity drained, the water level will remain above the output hole and not pull in the surface crud that causes clogs.

Been running mine this way for about a year. No clogs, no weird dispensing, no surface tension issues.

rhostam · Sep 10, 2022

Comic_Reef said:
Old post but thought I'd post on here my solution to the icecap output issue.

First, in my experience, due to the tubing being small you have to have a need for a decent about of kalk for it to be useful out of the box. Due to the design, it will only dispense after the water level in the reactor reaches a certain height above the output hole in the reactor. Once it rises enough, the pressure of the water within the reactor will break the surface tension in the tube and dispense it, siphoning out everything above the output within the reactor, not doing so again until the water level on the reactor rises to that height again.

For those with lower demand, this can be problematic as it can build up and dispense a day or twos kalk all at one time, jumping ph and causing alk swings. Especially if it decides to release right after the kalk got stirred.

For me, this caused me to shut down the reactor for a bit while starting my tank because it was causing issues.

Luckily, you can pretty easily convert it into a pressurized reactor and be done with this issue. The top is secured by an o-ring, a lid and some thumb screws. I simply cut a small piece of plexiglass large enought to sit between the lid and the o-ring and tightened the screws down to seal the top. With this tight seal, the reactor will always maintain a level of pressure and you will get that nice even drip you are looking for. Also gets rid of the need for adding an internal elbow, as since it's no longer gravity drained, the water level will remain above the output hole and not pull in the surface crud that causes clogs.

Been running mine this way for about a year. No clogs, no weird dispensing, no surface tension issues.

Nice! I’m glad that worked for you. I did try creating pressurized system by permanently mounting the cap (I.e. solvent/glue). My tubing would still clog at the elbows and if not there the end of the dosing line. This created back pressure that forced a leaked from the input side. I gave up KW and converted the unit to be an All for Reef dosing reservoir.