ICH

[JulioG210]

Well ive read about it and now having to deal with ICH.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Well ive read about it and now having to deal with ICH.

If you can post a video under white lights, we can confirm that this ich, judge the degree of infection, and then give you treatment options.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Well ive read about it and now having to deal with ICH.

Please also list the type of fish you have in the tank

 

[JulioG210]

 

[JulioG210]

Well ive read about it and now having to deal with ICH.

Please also list the type of fish you have in the tank

Powder tang. Chocolate tanf, 2 clown fish and 5 small azul dansel, and a spotted goby

 

[vetteguy53081]

This is mucus cones often from a skin irritation and at times are mixed in with ich and Often you will notice other occupants show no signs but recommended is to remove all fish and treat them as well using coppersafe or copper power for a full 30 days at 2.25ppm which they respond to well and add an air stone and monitor copper level with a reliable Copper Test kit such as Hanna Brand- No API brand. Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

Yep - that’s a moderate case of ich. Is just the tang showing spots?

Your two best options cannot be done in a tank with invertebrates; hyposalinity or coppersafe. Let me know if you need a walkthrough on either treatment.

 

[winxp_man]

You have a 40 long aqueon tank? For the amount of fish, this is a nice size tank to get if you don’t have one.

 

[JulioG210]

You have a 40 long aqueon tank? For the amount of fish, this is a nice size tank to get if you don’t have one.

One of my clown has spots im going to qt all fish and run uv sanitizer in main tank. Going to run ich x

 

[winxp_man]

One of my clown has spots im going to qt all fish and run uv sanitizer in main tank. Going to run ich x

I will copy and past a post of mine from another thread about setting up a QT tank. But wild ask if you have picture and videos under bright white lights to post. And are you sure it’s ich and flukes? Or is this a guess on your end?




Paste:

I would recommend you get a system to properly QT fish from here on out.

Petco has great deals if you’re state side. They have 20 long tanks on sale all the time. If you order online and pickup in store you can get an extra 10% off. With that said a 20long is the perfect tank if you have room to set it up.

For HOB (hang on back) Filter I use the Fluval AC50. It comes with a few things to it. I only use the bio sponge that comes with it. The rest is media and other filtration stuff that is not needed for a QT tank.

For more clear water and to help reduce algae bloom or bacterial blooms once the tank is set up. I use Aqua Top Intank UV. 7watt version works for the 20 long tank. The super nice extra benefit is it create great surface agitation for gas exchange to take place and get plenty of o2 in the tank water.

For heaters I have been using Ti heater for about 1.5 years now. Prior I have done the glass versions. But no longer. The most accurate heater I have to date is a IM Hilos controller and Finnex Ti heater. But there way cheaper system that can work. The Finnex with the built in controller is a bit cheaper and has a build in fail said for over heating from what I recall.

Light, as long as you can get something with bright white lights you’re good to go. And I tend to limit lights to 6 hours for fish in QT.

Bacteria I like to use turbo start 900. Give is a few days before turning on the UV. Like the Aqua Top in tank UV because it has a UV light turnoff separate from the filter pump. So it can be used to again creat surface agitation. Since you’re at an emergency stage…. I would do water changes ever day after the first two three days. This will keep ammonia down while beneficial bacteria catches on to the HOB sponge and other surfaces it can. I actually started to do Genesis rock in my QT systems for. It does not absorb any copper.

Edit for water change clarification. If there are more fish ammonia will build up pretty quick. So so after day two I start water changes and dose bacteria as needed. It can be tricky, keep an eye out for bacterial bloom though. If you see a bacterial bloom I would turn on the UV. Play the game between UV off and on as needed based upon water clarity. BUT for alway leave the UV filter part on for O2.

Get copper power or copper safe.

For the fish some large 2-3” PVC fittings. Gives them hiding spots and less stress on the fish.


Edit: additional in depth info.
Here is a picture of my setup that has been ongoing for a year now. I’m always getting a fish or QTing for friends. So this tank is always in ready to host fish as any given time. After bacteria gets going ammonia takes a while to get going. BUT!!!…. Still run WC, reason is water quality. It end up getting gunky even without ammonia present. P04 and such from feeding. Remember there is no CUC to maintain a clean tank.

The HOB also only does so much before needing a sponge rinse. I rinse the bio sponge in a bucket that is taken out for WC. The water in the bucket will not be as dirty as the bio sponge trust me haha. In a 20 long I fill the tank with Home Depot buckets that are lakebed with gallons. The 5 gal bucket. That way for WC I know I’m taking out 5, 8, 10 gallons or whatever it is. And I know how much to put back. And dose copper for the exact amount I took out and put back in for the WC.

So with a bucket that had gallon increments I put in 15 gallons exactly in a 20 long tank. Then mark the water line and with a permanent marker I write down 15 gallons empty tank. Then I put in the heater the in tank UV, and HOB and fill it up. Then mark another like and write filter, uv and heart line. This way I don’t have to measure water to put back into the tank. It’s pre measured when I took it out and all I have to do is use a hose to pump water into the tank to the filter, uv and heater line I marked.

You can see my marks on my tank. And this had yet to let me know measurement wise. You will be able to dose whatever medication you need without fear of over dosing because you know the exact amount of water you have all the time. Also it gives you a nice system to top off for water evap with rodi.

As for media, I have done dual Fluval AC50 filters and find it enough for more fish, and this is also to a limit. But more recently as I stated above, I started doing Polyplab Genesis Rock and once it catches on that bacteria really works wonders.

This system I posted here, has yet to fail me! O2 is in abundance! I have a o2 meter, yes I check it haha, or rather used to. Now I just trust it. I don’t have to use extra aeration devices, and minimal salt creep compared to a bubbler aeration device. Best part for me no bubbles flying all ver the place. Have tried a million devices in QT tanks and this is it for me.

Now you’re ready for prazi, copper and whatever else is needed. Alway have copper power, or copper safe on hand if you buy fish here and there to get a QT going. Prazi (my personal favorite is the pure form), Kanaplex, Neoplex, Metroplex. And quality pellet food. For tangs I like the spectrum wafers before I don’t have to feed nori. The spectrum wafers are almost as good as nori. I feed it to all my tangs and angles. I know it’s good because they poop just like if they eat nori. Which is not the hard log poop from eating pellets only.

 

[JulioG210]

Yeah just picked one up. Learned the hard way to qt all fish now on

 

[Squidward]

You can also try TTM, my preferred qurantine as it only takes 12 days and no chemicals compared to copper etc.

 

[JulioG210]

You can also try TTM, my preferred qurantine as it only takes 12 days and no chemicals compared to copper etc.

What is ttm?

 

[winxp_man]

What is ttm?

Tank transfer method. A side note though. It can be hard on fish. The stress of being caught over and over for the move.

 

[Jay Hemdal]

One of my clown has spots im going to qt all fish and run uv sanitizer in main tank. Going to run ich x

Ich-X really doesn’t work for marine ich. A UV sterilizer won’t stop an active ich infection.

You really need to start a proper treatment in order to save your fish. If you can move the invertebrates out of the tank, hyposalinity might be your best option:

Hyposalinity

Hyposalinity Jay Hemdal 2024 This term refers to a long-term bath treatment for marine fishes in which the salt content of the water is lowered and held below the point that certain parasites can survive. The salt level reached, and the time of the treatment are the two variables...

www.reef2reef.com

 

[Jay Hemdal]

You can also try TTM, my preferred qurantine as it only takes 12 days and no chemicals compared to copper etc.

TTM won’t work in this case because the OP doesn’t have an ich free tank to move the fish into. We also aren’t sure that ich is the only issue.