Ich

[vetteguy53081]

Also, I got 2 new clown today and they are in the quarantine tank. Now do you think I can add my wrasse to their quarantine tank and medicate them all at once?

I wouldn’t medicate fish that don’t require treatment unless at therapeutic level

 

[Brxdxn]

Agree with doc- if fish appears stable- FW dip is good making sure temperature same as tank and add a pinch of baking soda for ph assurance.
If fish is distressed, I’d skip it

Is their a certain type of baking soda? Like maybe a baking soda lacking a chemical or something? Just making sure. Or just any ole baking soda?

 

[Brxdxn]

I wouldn’t medicate fish that don’t require treatment unless at therapeutic level

Ok I will keep an eye on him. I really appreciate the help

 

[Brxdxn]

Medicate you can if showing rapid breathing, itching/twitching or dots otherwise FW dip may offer relief
What are your parameters and what test kit are you using?
I’m at dinner but will check back

So I currently do not have a test kit. I will soon be getting one. Any recommendations?

 

[Brxdxn]

So I currently do not have a test kit. I will soon be getting one. Any recommendations?

Medicate you can if showing rapid breathing, itching/twitching or dots otherwise FW dip may offer relief
What are your parameters and what test kit are you using?
I’m at dinner but will check back

I have a freshwater test kit. But I don’t think it will show accurate results.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I have a freshwater test kit. But I don’t think it will show accurate results.

Likely not but important to know
I would grab a good water sample and take to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and have them test for you until you can secure a test kit which is a must when running a marine tank.

 

[Brxdxn]

Is their a certain type of baking soda? Like maybe a baking soda lacking a chemical or something? Just making sure. Or just any ole baking soda?

 

[Brxdxn]

Likely not but important to know
I would grab a good water sample and take to a trusted LFS that does NOT use API test kits and have them test for you until you can secure a test kit which is a must when running a marine tank.

Ok I will sure do that. Also, about before with the baking soda to higher pH. Is their a certain type of baking soda? Like maybe a baking soda lacking a chemical or something? Just making sure. Or just any ole baking soda?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok I will sure do that. Also, about before with the baking soda to higher pH. Is their a certain type of baking soda? Like maybe a baking soda lacking a chemical or something? Just making sure. Or just any ole baking soda?

ole baking soda

 

[Brxdxn]

Ok so how much should i do to raise my ph to the right amount? Since I dont have a test kit

 

[Brxdxn]

ole baking soda

Ok so how much should i do to raise my ph to the right amount? Since I dont have a test kit

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok so how much should i do to raise my ph to the right amount? Since I dont have a test kit

For a FW dip, a pinch is sufficient

 

[Brxdxn]

For a FW dip, a pinch is sufficient

Ok and I just need to make sure I have the correct temp and thats all I really need to worry about so he doesn’t experience shock correct?

 

[vetteguy53081]

Ok and I just need to make sure I have the correct temp and thats all I really need to worry about so he doesn’t experience shock correct?

Yes

 

[Brxdxn]

Yes

Ok well I really appreciate all of the help and knowledge you’ve provided me . And thank you for being patient I am very new to saltwater haha.

 

[Idoc]

Ok and just saying the wrasse does have ich. And so should I maybe try to let the wrasse kind of just let it take its course or should I just medicate it Just in case? Also do you think that a UV sterilizer will help this whole issue?

Ok...tried to read this thread since we last chatted...I'm getting confused, so I'm sure your head is spinning!

If your wrasse has ich and you want to keep it out of your main tank in the future....then, treat your wrasse and the incoming clowns (and other fish in your main tank) in your quarantine tank according to the directions on your medication. Then, let your main tank go fallow for 76 days...that should clear the ich from your main tank plus all your fish.

Letting the ich run its course on your wrasse is also an option...there are many who do not quarantine and prophylactically treat their fish for ich/velvet with copper, etc... and therefore, they manage ich in their tanks. A fish with a strong immune system can fight off ich and suppress it...but it will always be in the tank and will rear its ugly head as soon as a fish becomes stressed for some reason. Creating strong immune systems is typically done by maintaining stable, pristine water conditions at all times as well as feeding the fish healthy foods with vitamins. It can be done!

I am just one who prefers to treat all incoming fish for ich with copper and attempt to keep it out of my main tank...so far, almost 4 years and no ich or known diseases in my main tank by doing this method.

As for a UV -- yes, it can be used to control parasites in the water column, but it can't clear them completely out of a tank.

 

[Brxdxn]

Ok...tried to read this thread since we last chatted...I'm getting confused, so I'm sure your head is spinning!

If your wrasse has ich and you want to keep it out of your main tank in the future....then, treat your wrasse and the incoming clowns (and other fish in your main tank) in your quarantine tank according to the directions on your medication. Then, let your main tank go fallow for 76 days...that should clear the ich from your main tank plus all your fish.

Letting the ich run its course on your wrasse is also an option...there are many who do not quarantine and prophylactically treat their fish for ich/velvet with copper, etc... and therefore, they manage ich in their tanks. A fish with a strong immune system can fight off ich and suppress it...but it will always be in the tank and will rear its ugly head as soon as a fish becomes stressed for some reason. Creating strong immune systems is typically done by maintaining stable, pristine water conditions at all times as well as feeding the fish healthy foods with vitamins. It can be done!

I am just one who prefers to treat all incoming fish for ich with copper and attempt to keep it out of my main tank...so far, almost 4 years and no ich or known diseases in my main tank by doing this method.

As for a UV -- yes, it can be used to control parasites in the water column, but it can't clear them completely out of a tank.

Ok I really appreciate the feedback. What I was starting to think was should I FW dip my wrasse and put him in my quarantine tank and see how that goes? Also how long should I FW dip a 6 striped wrasse for? And if I kill the ich on him and put him a tank that doesn’t have ich to my knowledge will he be free of it? I would prefer to do no medication because ”Ich X” requires water changes and you know how saltwater adds up pretty quickly.

 

[hds4216]

Ok I really appreciate the feedback. What I was starting to think was should I FW dip my wrasse and put him in my quarantine tank and see how that goes? Also how long should I FW dip a 6 striped wrasse for? And if I kill the ich on him and put him a tank that doesn’t have ich to my knowledge will he be free of it? I would prefer to do no medication because ”Ich X” requires water changes and you know how saltwater adds up pretty quickly.

Freshwater Dip

Freshwater Dip What It Treats – Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases: 1) Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium ocellatum) 2) Brooklynella hostilis 3) Uronema marinum 4) Flukes (Monogeneans) 5) Black Ich (Turbellarians) Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes (see video...

www.reef2reef.com

Read this, it's very helpful.

 

[hds4216]

Ok I really appreciate the feedback. What I was starting to think was should I FW dip my wrasse and put him in my quarantine tank and see how that goes? Also how long should I FW dip a 6 striped wrasse for? And if I kill the ich on him and put him a tank that doesn’t have ich to my knowledge will he be free of it? I would prefer to do no medication because ”Ich X” requires water changes and you know how saltwater adds up pretty quickly.

A freshwater dip will not kill the ich. The only way to kill ich is with hyposalinity, copper, and tank transfer. All of these require water changes.

 

[Idoc]

Ok I really appreciate the feedback. What I was starting to think was should I FW dip my wrasse and put him in my quarantine tank and see how that goes? Also how long should I FW dip a 6 striped wrasse for? And if I kill the ich on him and put him a tank that doesn’t have ich to my knowledge will he be free of it? I would prefer to do no medication because ”Ich X” requires water changes and you know how saltwater adds up pretty quickly.

@hds4216 gave some good info on the FW dip and treatments for Ich.

A freshwater dip is usually only for 5 min...doesn't kill the ich completely...just removes some of the parasites from the fish for comfort. I guess a longterm dip would theoretically kill all the parasites, but the fish can't handle it and would also die from the experience. Hence why some people treat with hyposalinity.

If you treat the fish...and any new incoming fish...run your main tank fallow for 76 days...and properly quarantine inverts/corals prior to adding to your tank after it goes fallow...then, you have a good chance of being free of ich in your main tank. If you don't do these things, then there's a strong change you will continue to have ich in your system...but then you just learn to manage ich with keeping fish extremely healthy and maintaining pristine water conditions (which are also going to require regular water changes...hence costs in salt). Either way, salt costs are going to be a regular thing in this hobby...buy it when its on sale and in bigger quantities! But, the water changes are smaller in a quarantine tank than in a main tank...I use 10g tanks for my quarantining and that's not much salt.

Copper treatments only require water changes after the 30 days of copper treatment...it looks like IchX calls for several water changes.

Here's an excellent message string on ich treatment vs management: Ich eradication vs. Ich management | REEF2REEF Saltwater and Reef Aquarium Forum