Ick Help!!!

Steven9194

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First encounter with ick. I’m sure it’s been in the tank for a long while as I have not QTd However I’ve never had fish show signs of ick. I brought this boxfish home about a week ago and looked clean. Since then he has progressively shown more spots until this today. I turned on my 57w UV yesterday to run constant. But today he looks worse than yesterday. He is still eating and acting normal. Also noticed some spots on my Foxface today

I have a verity of meds on hand which were recommended when I setup the tank almost two years ago, yet I’ve never had to use them….

Looking for some guidance here on how to get this under control in my DT. I don’t really have the room to setup another tank.

System is a 125g.

Meds I have on hand:
Rally pro
PraziPro
Focus
Kanoplex
Metroplex
Nitrofurazone

I do have copper power and coppersafe as well if absolutely necessary….





IMG_4791.jpeg
 

vetteguy53081

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First encounter with ick. I’m sure it’s been in the tank for a long while as I have not QTd However I’ve never had fish show signs of ick. I brought this boxfish home about a week ago and looked clean. Since then he has progressively shown more spots until this today. I turned on my 57w UV yesterday to run constant. But today he looks worse than yesterday. He is still eating and acting normal. Also noticed some spots on my Foxface today

I have a verity of meds on hand which were recommended when I setup the tank almost two years ago, yet I’ve never had to use them….

Looking for some guidance here on how to get this under control in my DT. I don’t really have the room to setup another tank.

System is a 125g.

Meds I have on hand:
Rally pro
PraziPro
Focus
Kanoplex
Metroplex
Nitrofurazone

I do have copper power and coppersafe as well if absolutely necessary….





IMG_4791.jpeg

This fish indeed has ich and will need to be treated in a separate tank using coppersafe or Copper Power at 2.25ppm For a full 30 days (no less) and level monitored with a Hanna brand copper test kit.
Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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This fish indeed has ich and will need to be treated in a separate tank using coppersafe or Copper Power at 2.25ppm For a full 30 days (no less) and level monitored with a Hanna brand copper test kit.
Also monitor Ammonia levels while in quarantine with a reliable test kit and add aeration during treatment using an air stone.
The display tank will have to be kept fishless (FALLOW) for 6-8 weeks to assure the existing parasites go through their life cycle without a host fish and die off and with occupants exposed, they too should go into quarantine
A quarantine tank can be as simple as a tank from a second hand store or a starter kit from Walmart which most of the needed essentials.
Does this inlcude inverts? Snail, starfish, shrimp? I know they cannot be placed in copper, but can ick survive on them?
 

vetteguy53081

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Does this inlcude inverts? Snail, starfish, shrimp? I know they cannot be placed in copper, but can ick survive on them?
I mentioned separate tank. Treat fish only. Inverts and coral can remain in the display tank for 6-8 week fallow period
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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I mentioned separate tank. Treat fish only. Inverts and coral can remain in the display tank for 6-8 week fallow period
Yeah I understand getting a separate tank. Was just saying I would need a pretty large tank for all the fish. I’ll start looking for one.
 

vetteguy53081

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Yeah I understand getting a separate tank. Was just saying I would need a pretty large tank for all the fish. I’ll start looking for one.
Tank or even a rubbermaid type container
 

Jekyl

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Other route would be hyposalinity. Can be done in tank but adversely all of your inverts and coral would have to be separated instead.
 

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Other route would be hyposalinity. Can be done in tank but adversely all of your inverts and coral would have to be separated instead.
Notice the cowfish in video- Hypo is not for all fish, keep in mind so i am often reluctant to recommend based on fish within the system
 
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Steven9194

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Notice the cowfish in video- Hypo is not for all fish, keep in mind so i am often reluctant to recommend based on fish within the system
Are all of these capable of being put in copper?

My fish list is:

Sailfin tang
Purple tang
Tennenti tang
Tomini tang
Bald black mimic tang
Mag fox
Clowns
Boxfish
Melanarous wrasse
Pajama cardinals
Royal gramma
 

vetteguy53081

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Are all of these capable of being put in copper?

My fish list is:

Sailfin tang
Purple tang
Tennenti tang
Tomini tang
Bald black mimic tang
Mag fox
Clowns
Boxfish
Melanarous wrasse
Pajama cardinals
Royal gramma
Yes and provide a deep bowl with sand for the wrasse and dose coppersafe, not cupramine at 2.15-2.25 ppm
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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Yes and provide a deep bowl with sand for the wrasse and dose coppersafe, not cupramine at 2.15-2.25 ppm
Am I slowly dosing copper until reaching the 2.15-2.25 or get that number than add the fish?

I found a 75g aquarium I’m going to use for this. So I’ll get them moved over tomorrow.

Will a HOB filter be sufficient or should I look into something else?
 

vetteguy53081

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Am I slowly dosing copper until reaching the 2.15-2.25 or get that number than add the fish?

I found a 75g aquarium I’m going to use for this. So I’ll get them moved over tomorrow.

Will a HOB filter be sufficient or should I look into something else?
Get to number within 24hrs. Ramping slowly allows disease to thrive and take hold of the fish
HOB good. Add air stone and add seeded sponge or add bacteria to a sponge or floss to help with nitrate control
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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Get to number within 24hrs. Ramping slowly allows disease to thrive and take hold of the fish
HOB good. Add air stone and add seeded sponge or add bacteria to a sponge or floss to help with nitrate control
I was just thinking about that. Should I transfer some live rock form my DT into the QT to cycle it? Along with a seeded sponge?
 

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I was just thinking about that. Should I transfer some live rock form my DT into the QT to cycle it? Along with a seeded sponge?
No as live rock will absorb medication
 

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Notice the cowfish in video- Hypo is not for all fish, keep in mind so i am often reluctant to recommend based on fish within the system

Cowfish do handle hypo fine…..
 

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I was just thinking about that. Should I transfer some live rock form my DT into the QT to cycle it? Along with a seeded sponge?

No doubt, the cowfish brought ich into your tank, they are prone to it.

You’re going to have a challenge treating them all by setting up a quarantine tank on the fly. You’ll need a Hanna HR checker to measure the coppersafe. For sure use the seeded filter sponge. You’ll also need to use some live rock (no invertebrates on it), just a few pieces, in order to supply enough bacteria to keep the ammonia at bay. The rock will absorb some copper, but you can test and make partial redoses to compensate for that. Then, that live rock cannot be used back in tanks with invertebrates in it.
 
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Steven9194

Steven9194

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Get to number within 24hrs. Ramping slowly allows disease to thrive and take hold of the fish
HOB good. Add air stone and add seeded sponge or add bacteria to a sponge or floss to help with nitrate control
Just went to change out my UV bulb and noticed my quartz sleeve was broken… I wonder if this affected things.
No doubt, the cowfish brought ich into your tank, they are prone to it.

You’re going to have a challenge treating them all by setting up a quarantine tank on the fly. You’ll need a Hanna HR checker to measure the coppersafe. For sure use the seeded filter sponge. You’ll also need to use some live rock (no invertebrates on it), just a few pieces, in order to supply enough bacteria to keep the ammonia at bay. The rock will absorb some copper, but you can test and make partial redoses to compensate for that. Then, that live rock cannot be used back in tanks with invertebrates in it.
i have everything needed for it, as i originally purchased everything to run a 20g qt. Just working on getting 75g tank for this many fish.
 

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vetteguy53081

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Just went to change out my UV bulb and noticed my quartz sleeve was broken… I wonder if this affected things.

i have everything needed for it, as i originally purchased everything to run a 20g qt. Just working on getting 75g tank for this many fish.
Do not run with broken quartz sleeve
 

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