Ideas for extending down pipes a half inch

[JoJosReef]

@JoJosReef i don’t even understand the problem. So the tank was raised 1/2” but the plumbing doesn’t actually connect to anything in the sump. Why can’t the pvc enter the cutout 1/2” higher? Is there not 1/2” to spare? What about making the cut out 1/2” bigger?

Yes, the problem is that the space between the top of the stand and the pipes is less than 1/2".

If I raise the tank, then the drain pipe presses against the roof of the stand and the union doesn't screw in all the way. Can't cut into the stand because then I'm cutting into the top of the stand, not the back panel.

 

[VintageReefer]

Yes, the problem is that the space between the top of the stand and the pipes is less than 1/2".

If I raise the tank, then the drain pipe presses against the roof of the stand and the union doesn't screw in all the way. Can't cut into the stand because then I'm cutting into the top of the stand, not the back panel.

Now I understand. Ok

I agree

 

[JoJosReef]

Bit of a bummer. My first thought, as mentioned by @Vintage reefer would be to make the cutout larger to accept the plumbing at the new height.
Short of that I personally would re-make the pipe run. Other than the re-make I'm in with @Red_Beard on the also previously mentioned cutout and longer pipe insert with couplings.
Seriously though, just get another union and remake the run, if you don't everytime you look at it you'll kick yourself in the butt for not doing it!!

I could cut a tube 1/2" longer than the current one with the same union fitting.

How do you "unglue" one of these pipes, though? That pipe highlighted is glued tight into that elbow fitting (as well as the bottom half of the union at the top).

 

[VintageReefer]

I could cut a tube 1/2" longer than the current one with the same union fitting.

How do you "unglue" one of these pipes, though? That pipe highlighted is glued tight into that elbow fitting (as well as the bottom half of the union at the top).

I don’t think you can but I’m not positive.

Easiest way is cut a 5” section, add a 5.5” piece and put the couplers on

Possible also the two couplets will add .5” because there is a line inside acting as stopper. If that line inside is .25” and yoj add two couplers you might gain your .5” and not even need to replace the pipe.

I would cut out 5”

Dry fit a coupler on top and bottom then put it all back together and see if you gain your .5”

 

[Tide2water]

I could cut a tube 1/2" longer than the current one with the same union fitting.

How do you "unglue" one of these pipes, though? That pipe highlighted is glued tight into that elbow fitting (as well as the bottom half of the union at the top).

Right after the elbow is a "male adapter" the pipe fits in one end and it threads into the other. Recreate the same thing just 1/2" longer.

If you cant find the same brand/model of union you can just add another union before the elbow. Should give close to 1/2".

 

[Reefer Brent]

Is that threaded where it attaches to the gate?

 

[JoJosReef]

Is that threaded where it attaches to the gate?

I believe so, but it is glued in. Also, that's not the side that needs 1/2" additional length. The vertical tube needs an additional 1/2". In reality, it probably needs 1/10" to FIT in the hold, but it'd likely be right up against the top of the stand. I think 1/4-1/2" additional length would be best.

 

[VintageReefer]

. I think 1/4-1/2" additional length would be best.

Then my double coupler idea is ideal. Cut a section then add the couplers and reuse the piece you cut. Should be perfect

 

[hoffmeyerz]

I could cut a tube 1/2" longer than the current one with the same union fitting.

How do you "unglue" one of these pipes, though? That pipe highlighted is glued tight into that elbow fitting (as well as the bottom half of the union at the top).

The adapter coming off the elbow looks to be threaded into the gate valve, I think I can see teflon tape there?? If it is threaded than just re-make the whole piece down to the gate valve, I'm not sure why the threaded connection would be glued.
If you can't get those apart anywhere to re-make it then @Vintage reefer is correct to insert a longer piece in the middle with two couplings. Easy-peasy and done in a few mins!

 

[JoJosReef]

@VintageReefer I'm assuming we have schedule 40 pipes for this tank? I just learned the difference between 40 and 80... learning curve.

 

[JoJosReef]

I don't think I posted this yet. While all the fittings say 1", the pipes themselves are not 1" in diameter:

This is the top of the tube that goes into the union attached to the overflow box:

 

[hoffmeyerz]

I don't think I posted this yet. While all the fittings say 1", the pipes themselves are not 1" in diameter:

Pipes are 1" Inside Diameter. Typically schedule 40 pipe is white and Schedule 80 is grey unless special color pipe is used.

 

[JoJosReef]

Pipes are 1" Inside Diameter. Typically schedule 40 pipe is white and Schedule 80 is grey unless special color pipe is used.

Thanks! Still looks larger than 1" ID, but likely user error :)

 

[hoffmeyerz]

Thanks! Still looks larger than 1" ID, but likely user error :)

Ah heck, 1" - 2" what difference does it make, as long at the water gets there right!! LOL

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Just Saying...

Is the only way to go...

 

[VintageReefer]

1” schedule 40 and 80 are same size outer diameter. Schedule 80 is thicker and I think a true 1” ID. Schedule 40 is thinner and slightly larger ID.

It is so they can both use the same fittings And have 1” ID minimum

 

[ptrusk]

That looks like a slip fitting, IE glued. That removes the nipple option. That said, either replace the whole of it, from that half union down, that will look the best and be cleanest, or second best would be to do like @VintageReefer suggested with 2 couplers and adding a slightly longer section between the 2.

The other couplers and compression fitting are pretty redneck dude. From my experience, the more redneck something looks, the more likely it is to fail. Not always, but pretty often. The reason you don't want to use just one coupler and half insert to get your length, is that you remove surface area for the glue to hold, remove pipe inside the fitting reducing torsion strength, and, that added gap between the pipe ends causes some additional turbulence which may result in noise. None of that is a deal breaker though, it would likely work, just def not good practice.

Redneck huh. You are an butt.

 

[Red_Beard]

Redneck huh. You are an butt.

HEY! ... I resemble that remark.

 

[TangerineSpeedo]

Redneck huh. You are an butt.

Redneck or Red beard? Or just a Red Hairy Butt. Or... What was Lindsey Lohan's nick name... Fire Crotchet or something like that... :thinking-face: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
For me, It's "Do it the right way or not at all".
Or as some say....

 

[Red_Beard]

Redneck or Red beard? Or just a Red Hairy Butt. Or... What was Lindsey Lohan's nick name... Fire Crotchet or something like that... :thinking-face: :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:
For me, It's "Do it the right way or not at all".
Or as some say....

LOL! Good ole' Bruce Campbell

Totally agree. Like they say though, takes one to know one! (the redneck stuff... not the other :rolling-on-the-floor-laughing::rolling-on-the-floor-laughing:) I have redneck'd a LOT of stuff in my day, enough to know i would rather do it right once than wrong 3 times.