IDOC's First Reef Tank Build - 75g

[Idoc]

Be prepared to save all of those Nerites after they escape. I had four. Can’t tell you how many times I found them outside the tank drying up and nearly dead. Surprisingly they all survived at least a few months. None lived longer than a year though, and they all died because they escaped.

I would never buy another. And honestly I don’t understand why they are so readily available and so popular.

I haven't had any leave the tank yet, but I have been checking daily! They do look nice...well, as nice as a snail can look! I've read that the caribbean variety doesn't live as long in our aquariums as the pacific variety do, though.

 

[Idoc]

Cycling the Tank

The cycle initially started on 14 Aug 2017...on 18 Aug (as previously noted in a post above), a leak is found due to a cracked gate valve. BRS was awesome and replaced the gate valve since it was still within the 30 day warranty! BulkReefSupply.com is awesome!

I made the decision to cycle the tank naturally...without the use of bottled bacteria or live fish. I can't believe anyone would use a living fish to cycle their tanks, but they're out there! I also chose to dose ammonia in order to ensure exact dosages rather than using the raw shrimp method. I don't have an ACE Hardware in my area to obtain janitorial grade pure ammonia, but I was able to find pure ammonia at a GFS (Gordon Food Store) in town (Array brand). I shook it quite a bit to ensure no bubbles indicating surfactants added to the solution. Once home, I looked up the MSDS sheets online in order to determine the percentage of ammonia...this is important to know in order to know how much to dose into the system! Well, the MSDS said it could contain between 2.5-9.0% ammonia...not all that helpful! But, it did confirm no other chemicals added to this brand of ammonia.

Here's a great calculator to determine how much ammonia you need to dose in order to obtain your desired ppm: http://www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm

My target ammonia dosage was 2ppm...all my research pointed to keeping the ammonia below 5ppm in order to keep the cycle from stalling.

Test kits used:
Ammonia (NH3) - Red Sea
Nitrite (NO2) - Salifert
Nitrate (NO3) - Salifert
Phosphate (PO4) - Hanna Phosphate Checker

Attached is an easy to read spreadsheet detailing the cycle progress and the testing results. I wasn't able to imbed the file...and the initial posting jumbled up the spacing of the numbers hand-entered into the post!

I continued to dose the system to 2ppm NH3 repeatedly every few days to ensure the bacteria continued to further colonize. My nitrates were staying steady around 50ppm. When my Clowns were ready to transfer from the QT, I performed a 50% (50g) water change which lowered the nitrates to 25ppm. Phosphates continue to remain around 0.06-0.08ppm...acceptable. During the cycle process, I replaced the Phosguard in the sump about every week in order to assist controlling the phosphates present. I'm assuming the phosphates present were a by-product from the Pukani continuing to leach them into the water column or possibly due to the curing process of the Hydraulic cement used to bind a few of the rocks together.

Skimmer: Not used during cycle
Lights: No lights during cycle (just ambient room lighting present)

 

[Idoc]

Skimmer Turned On...

Around the end of October 2017, I actually prepared and installed my skimmer and began running around the clock. First though, I placed the skimmer in a Rubbermaid container containing a mixture of tab water and vinegar in order to clean out any debris or coatings from the manufacturing process. I ran the skimmer in this bin for 24 hours. Definitely good to do this in a larger bin...the skimmer was overflowing constantly!

Skimmer: Tunze DOC 9410 -- Rated for 264 gallons. So far (as of 20 Nov 2017), this is an awesome skimmer! It self regulates...just turn it on and let it run! It only overflowed a little at the very beginning, and then self-regulated itself and hasn't overflowed since! Basically, set it at a depth between 5.5"-9.5" and it will regulate itself. Just open the air line and let it run! It also has its own filter sock holder where many people use to run activated carbon for their systems. I've set it to run around 7.5" depth...might set it deeper, though. Very quiet pump/motor, but it sounds like a waterfall with the water cascading out into the filter sock since that's about 1" above the water line! I think lowering the skimmer to make less drop for the water to cascade will really quiet this down to almost no noise! I've attached the brochure if anyone reading this would like to consider this skimmer for their own tank.

 

[Idoc]

Refugium Setup

Pretty basic...purchased 2 small tennis-ball sized groups of cheato from Reefcleaners.org. They guaranteed their cheato to be grown in completely fishless systems. So, I felt pretty comfortable that I wasn't introducing any "fish" diseases into my system. Again...kind of hard to quarantine cheato for 45-76 days and keep it thriving!

I'm not cheap, but I don't like to be ripped off, either! I did a lot of research into lights to grow the cheato! BRStv has a great video on the different types of lights used to grow cheato. They not only tested which grew the most cheato, but also which ones maintained the nutrients at 0 nitrates and phosphates! Well, the Kessil light won hands-down for best growth, but the other "white" lights also produced great chaeto growth AND still maintained the same zero nitrates and phosphates! So, it comes down to cost to benefit and $280 for a freakin' chaeto grow light from Kessil is absolutely ridiculous! Cheaper alternatives performed just as well for controlling nutrients at a fraction of the price!

Well, a little research into growing plants and I came across the MarsHydro website. They are a sister company of the Chinese blackbox aquarium LED light company, MarsAqua! It turns out, they also produce plant grow lights that look almost identical to the light wavelength given off by the Kessil lights...and a par38 bulb only costs $15. Further research found a lot of reefers out there using this light and having phenomenal chaeto growth! I tried chatting with the MarsHydro company online to get an exact spectrograph of their bulb's light output (to compare to the Kessil) but their service rep doesn't speak very good english, lol. But, she assured me the bulb has an excellent spectrum for plant growth.

Here's a link to the bulb on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ARI3HI...t=&hvlocphy=1025946&hvtargid=pla-314526689251

Link to the MarsHydro website:
https://www.mars-hydro.com/de/led-grow-light/marshydro-par38-eu.html

Amazing how it looks just like a fancy Kessil light in my sump, huh?

Initially, the chaeto started taking off and growing like crazy into a larger ball in only a week or two. But, the grow light also started causing other algae to take off in my sump! This bothered me since I'm a bit OCD about how the sump looks! I wasn't sure if it was the algae getting on the chaeto vs the grow light too far above the sump vs too much or too little flow in the sump that caused the problem. But, my chaeto went down to the size of a quarter! Here's the junk that was coating the walls of the refugium chamber...and I noticed that where ever the chaeto was touching this stuff on the sides (as it tumbled), the chaeto was dying! So, I wiped as much off the refugium walls as I could...lowered the grow light to about 12-14" above the water, and presto...chaeto started growing like crazy again!

I don't know what kind of algae this was, but since it was a new tank, I kind of assumed it was probably cyano. It wasn't filamentous at all. It still grows in the sump wherever the grow light spreads! Still nothing in my DT...but at this point, I still didn't have any lights hooked up in the DT! After seeing this, I was kind of scared to turn on the DT lights!!!

 

[Idoc]

QT Medications...

I've been slowly building up my stockpile of medications for use during quarantine and to be prepared in case something bad occurs! I think I have most of the more "common" bases covered.

 

[Idoc]

Controller Setup...

Again...the slowest build ever!!! My Christmas gift last year (didn't arrive until around February, though) was a GHL Profilux 4 aquarium controller. I've had this in its box just waiting to install. I read many threads concerning the setup of this controller... Most felt this was an awesome controller and easier to operate than the Neptune Apex system. When I was initially researching which system to get, R2R was full of people complaining about the newest Apex system and problems with its functionality. So, I started looking into GHL...hardly a single complaint with function, constant threads about how easy to use, and great customer service. I've always favored German engineering as well...hence the Tunze skimmer purchase!

As a newbie to saltwater aquariums and controllers, I had never seen a controller let alone used one! So, I was very apprehensive to set this up...took a lot of reading manuals and online threads! Everyone kept saying how easy it was, but reading the manual seemed to make me think differently! Thankfully, GHL support reached out to me and asked me if I would like to take part in a beta step-by-step guide for setting up the Profilux 4 for new users! Piece of cake...the new manual they are putting together helps to clarify so much and helps to setup the "basic" functions to get you up and running! They also have a bunch of online videos in their website support section that are top-notch and so easy to follow along with excellent explanations! I like not having module after module everywhere like Neptune systems...mostly everything is encased into the main Profilux 4 housing! I have had to purchase a couple additional "coupler boxes" to assist with attaching my RapidLED Onyx lights...but GHL customer support was awesome in helping exactly how to setup my lighting system!

It took me about 2 weeks to totally setup everything...but then again, I would only do a little bit at a time, ie: calibrate probes, wait 4 days and then work on something else! I really like the Profilux Touch...allows a simple screen to run everything without having to go through the menu system on the main controller! Really easy to go into feeding mode and maintenance mode...while constant observation of the main parameters on the main screen.

The Powerbar 5.1 has less outlets than the Neptune Apex powerbars! This is a fault, in my opinion. I've used up all my outlets...but really don't have anything else to plug in at this time. My lights are plugged into a separate wall outlet all together. I don't need the controller to monitor the outlet for the lights...the lighting channel cables are attached directly to a couple of 0-10v ports on the controller so I can control my three channels of lights: whites, blues, red/grn. Using the GCC control center to setup everything is really simple...almost everything is drop-down menus and entering your limits and creating timers! I haven't used myGHL yet...I still need to get that hooked up and working!

My next project is getting my Varios6 DC return pump to be controlled directly by the controller using one of the remaining 0-10v ports. Currently the pump is only controlled with on/off outlets while using the Varios6 supplied controller to control the amount of flow output. I will probably need to cut a couple wires on the pump in order to re-wire into a plug accepted by the controller! The Varios6 pump is Apex ready...but the Profilux 4 doesn't use the same 3.5mm jack supplied that the Apex unit uses! So, just gonna have to do a little adjusting to make it work. When I get to that point...I'll do a little research. I've already seen some other Varios6 users who have done it...

The powerbar has one outlet that is constantly running. I've hooked up the Profilux controller, Profilux Touch pad, and my ATO to this outlet (power strip on the right of the picture).

 

[Idoc]

ATO Setup

Spent the first month carrying buckets of RODI water nightly to fill up the sump to the correct level. The system evaporates off about 1g-1.5g per day. Eventually, I decided to hook up the ATO that has also been sitting in a box waiting to be installed. Crazy simple setup...easy to read and understand instructions included. I don't know why I didn't set this up first...it would have saved a lot of carrying water every night! This is a definite must-have for an aquarium setup.

ATO: Tunze Osmolator 3155

I initially had my 5g ATO reservoir inside the left side of my stand, but decided to move it outside the stand for easier fill up...plus this opened up the entire left cabinet of my stand for the electronic systems and wires. I used a simple food-safe bucket purchased from Home Depot or Lowe's for around $5. Again, I had a difficult time agreeing to put money toward an acrylic reservoir at $150 price tag! The bucket is easy to handle, easy to fill, and has a nice graduated gallons scale on the outside. Plus having the bucket on the outside allows me to easily change it over to a "bigger" container in case I have to be out of town longer than 4-5 days.

 

[Clayton Jessup]

IDOC , I am so jealous of your GHL ultimate set , I am dying for a GHL P4 , very nice congrats and you can’t go wrong with the Tuzen ATO or Skimmer I love the both of mine as well !!

 

[Aviido]

Ever get to the end of a good book and get a little upset that it's over? That's how it feels reading your thread... Awesome write up of an awesome setup. I'm definitely going to be taking a couple of ideas and applying them to my upcoming 120g build.

 

[Idoc]

IDOC , I am so jealous of your GHL ultimate set , I am dying for a GHL P4 , very nice congrats and you can’t go wrong with the Tuzen ATO or Skimmer I love the both of mine as well !!

So far, the GHL was a good choice. Definitely get one! I will eventually have to replace my Hydor powerheads...I might be thinking Tunze there as well since their other products seem so well made.

 

[Idoc]

Ever get to the end of a good book and get a little upset that it's over? That's how it feels reading your thread... Awesome write up of an awesome setup. I'm definitely going to be taking a couple of ideas and applying them to my upcoming 120g build.

Thanks @Aviido ... I'm glad you are enjoying the buildout thread. I definitely want to see that 120g buildout when you get it going! Well, I'm still writing this "story," so hopefully it has a happy ending, lol.

 

[Clayton Jessup]

So far, the GHL was a good choice. Definitely get one! I will eventually have to replace my Hydor powerheads...I might be thinking Tunze there as well since their other products seem so well made.

Idoc that’s great to read about the GHL !! I would recommend Tunze powerheads. I was actually thinking the same thing for my build as well . But I found a good deal on R2R for my MP10’s and I am happy I went that route , love having no cables in the tank. But don’t kid yourself I have had frequent thoughts of replacing them with a pair of Nanostreams 6095’s , do to the fact that I still need at least one more MP10 according to the Vortech calculator to keep SPS corals. But I love the controllability of Ecosmart live , and the capabilities with the ReefLink. That’s truly why I am thinking of running a pair of XR15PRO’s in my light fixture for my hybrid set up. But in all reality I think if you went Tunze or Ecotech Vortechs you can’t go wrong , and the plus side is that GHL already makes a controller for either pump that you decide. Sorry for the long response lol , just my 2 cents . I think you will be happy either route.

 

[Unregistered User]

AQUASCAPE

Well, did the whole "draw out the tank and aquascape on cardboard" thing. Had several "awesome" aquascapes...but kept changing it. The settled on one...attempted to transfer to the tank...just didn't look right once the tank walls were coming into play! So, rearranged on the fly and decided with the following aquascape:

Tried to incorporate some places to put different light level corals...some overhangs...a couple of cave type swim throughs for the fish.

The big piece of Pukani on the right was a big, solid ball when it arrived. It was awesome...until I started thinking, what a waste of good space. So I did some chiseling, some cementing, some sawing...I think the fish will appreciate the work invested on their behalf!

Here's how it started out:

I used a hacksaw to make the bottom a little "flat" to allow it to stand on its own. The chiseled a tunnel through the rock giving an overhang as well. I then cemented a small piece on the front to give it a little more stability with the overhang and actually created another little cave to swim through in the process. Added another "shelf" piece on top and on the right side to break up the "ball" look and ended up with:

I used a little Hydraulic cement from Lowe's in order to hold a couple of the rocks together, but mostly letting gravity hold the rocks on the left side. "Spot welded" a little cement to hold the cross piece in place so it wouldn't eventually get knocked off. Here's what I used:

Many people use the Marco e400 hydraulic cement and really like it, but kind of hard to pay $40 for a little pail of it when this can be purchased for under $10 at Lowe's. Several others are quoted in the forum as using this without any problems...so, I gave it a try. The only thing I didn't like about it...this stuff set's SOOOO fast!!! I would only make a small cup at a time (golf ball size)...by the time I would walk from the garage to the tank (25 feet), the stuff was already turning to hardened paste that wouldn't spread well. So, just spit in the cup and start mixing again, lol...get it smoother and then quickly apply to the joint I wanted to secure. They sell an agent that can be added to slow the cure time...might consider that the next time!

I don't know why this picture is in here, lol. Maybe to show the big ball of Pukani in the right before reshaping it? Anyhow, this was an aquascape mockup that I didn't end up using.

I loooove your thread. Full of knowledge & entertaining.

 

[Unregistered User]

Thanks! I was only able to work on it a couple hours a week usually, so it took me quite awhile to build it. But the fun of this project had been the planning, research, and actually doing it all. DIY stuff is a great stress reliever, lol.

Ha. To me it feels like purgatory. I cant wait to see the end result!

 

[Gino]

Wao man, you have an incredible wood craft ability, I love how look the stand. Well the whole build it's really nice done and well plan. Keep posting the progress of it.

 

[Idoc]

Wao man, you have an incredible wood craft ability, I love how look the stand. Well the whole build it's really nice done and well plan. Keep posting the progress of it.

Thanks! I have a few more updates to do that i am behind on doing! The stand was a fun project...I guess I'm nor completely done with it yet...I still need to mount the doors! Right now, the tank is going through the "me tank uglies", ugghh!

 

[count krunk]

Great build so far! ATO is the only way in a reef tank. It makes it much easier and keeps your tank more stable.

 

[Idoc]

Great build so far! ATO is the only way in a reef tank. It makes it much easier and keeps your tank more stable.

I definitely agree! The ATO is a must have...it keeps my parameters very stable!

 

[cpark645]

Great read You really thought this out well.

 

[Idoc]

Great read You really thought this out well.

Thanks! It is definitely a work in progress! I think I need to start putting more action into it and less thought, though, lol.