Internal vs. External Overflow

esb

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I am new to this hobby and jumping in with both feet and am having a 48” x 18” x 24” / 90 gal acrylic aquarium made. I’ve started conversations with Clear Fabrications and Midwest Custom Aquariums, but would consider others if folks have strong recommendations. I had originally thought I’d have an external overflow (Bean Animal) using something like the Eshopps Prodigy, but I’m having second thoughts primarily because an internal overflow will have a cleaner look.

The tank will be freestanding and all four sides will be visible. I plan to have all of the plumbing on one end and had considered a removable cover of some sort to hide the pipes and overflow box. But perhaps putting the overflow (and return pipes) in the aquarium with a built-in / blacked out weir would be better. I’d lose a few inches in the aquarium, but everything would be hidden and look a lot cleaner. One concern is how hard it will be to work inside the 24” deep space between the weir and tank wall. How large a gap would I need - 4”? Also, I’d like to center the weir and have enough space on either side for a powerhead. Should I use 1” pipes for the overflow and return pipes? I’d been planning on 3 overflow pipes for the Bean Animal configuration and 2 return pipes with the returns at the top front and rear. What kind of spacing do I need for all of the pipes (especially for the secondary pipe with two elbows)? Can I make that all fit reasonably to reach in to do the plumbing work and still have space on both sides for a powerhead (given the tank is 18” wide)? What else should I be considering?

The aquarium and stand have the longest lead times so I want to get that locked down sooner rather than later, but since they are being custom made, I want to take advantage of that as much as possible and want to limit the number of regrettable decisions.
 

RocketEngineer

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I would do external and box off that end with an extension up from the stand to cover it. This also gives you space to run wires up to the lights.
 

FSP

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Internal overflows can be tough with acrylic due to the euro/perimeter brace. 4" clearance is good for access, but with only 18" of width, things will get tight. External overflows are effective and easy to implement with acrylic tanks, but the four sides requirement is killer. 4/5 bulkheads will take up a lot of space if you go through the bottom.

Can you do a peninsula? :)

What kind of spacing do I need for all of the pipes (especially for the secondary pipe with two elbows)?
Have you checked out the original beananimal thread on rc? Exotic Marine has a decent video on youtube as well.

1" plumbing is fine for a 90 gal.
 
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esb

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Internal overflows can be tough with acrylic due to the euro/perimeter brace. 4" clearance is good for access, but with only 18" of width, things will get tight. External overflows are effective and easy to implement with acrylic tanks, but the four sides requirement is killer. 4/5 bulkheads will take up a lot of space if you go through the bottom.

Can you do a peninsula? :)


Have you checked out the original beananimal thread on rc? Exotic Marine has a decent video on youtube as well.

1" plumbing is fine for a 90 gal.

It seems that I am effectively going the peninsula route. There is no easy way to avoid blocking views from one end with plumbing (I was already planning to black out that end). Since I am likely going the custom stand route, I could have the stand extended a bit to the side to allow external plumbing to enter from the top (plus more room for the sump). I could also have a matching removable cover made at the same time.

I’m also considering increasing the width to 24”, though I’m not 100% sure about that.
 

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I am new to this hobby and jumping in with both feet and am having a 48” x 18” x 24” / 90 gal acrylic aquarium made. I’ve started conversations with Clear Fabrications and Midwest Custom Aquariums, but would consider others if folks have strong recommendations. I had originally thought I’d have an external overflow (Bean Animal) using something like the Eshopps Prodigy, but I’m having second thoughts primarily because an internal overflow will have a cleaner look.

The tank will be freestanding and all four sides will be visible. I plan to have all of the plumbing on one end and had considered a removable cover of some sort to hide the pipes and overflow box. But perhaps putting the overflow (and return pipes) in the aquarium with a built-in / blacked out weir would be better. I’d lose a few inches in the aquarium, but everything would be hidden and look a lot cleaner. One concern is how hard it will be to work inside the 24” deep space between the weir and tank wall. How large a gap would I need - 4”? Also, I’d like to center the weir and have enough space on either side for a powerhead. Should I use 1” pipes for the overflow and return pipes? I’d been planning on 3 overflow pipes for the Bean Animal configuration and 2 return pipes with the returns at the top front and rear. What kind of spacing do I need for all of the pipes (especially for the secondary pipe with two elbows)? Can I make that all fit reasonably to reach in to do the plumbing work and still have space on both sides for a powerhead (given the tank is 18” wide)? What else should I be considering?

The aquarium and stand have the longest lead times so I want to get that locked down sooner rather than later, but since they are being custom made, I want to take advantage of that as much as possible and want to limit the number of regrettable decisions.

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

finding nemo lol GIF by Disney Pixar
 

FSP

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Increasing the width to 24" will do you much good in many ways :D
 

dedragon

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I’m also considering increasing the width to 24”, though I’m not 100% sure about that.
Do it, working in an 18" width tank is a pain with aquascaping and cleaning. Innovative marine makes some nice peninsulas and they are on sale if the dimensions work for you.
 
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esb

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Thanks for the feedback so far. I think I’ve been convinced to go with an external overflow and increase the width to 24” (48”x24”x24” ~120 gal).

Any recommendations for a BA supporting external overflow for that?
 

FSP

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If you go with one of the commercial options with a small internal box, a 12"-20" one would be fine. Depends how you plan to do the return line(s), but do the widest one you can fit. Wider weir = thinner stream of water = quieter. Just make sure the top of external box is level with or higher than the internal box. Modular Marine and Exotic Marine appear to do this.

If you want MCA to make it part of the tank (my preference), I would have them do a slot an 1"-1.5" down from the top (on the short side for a peninsula) with an external box (~4" deep, ~8" tall).
 

Tenecor Aquariums

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It seems that I am effectively going the peninsula route. There is no easy way to avoid blocking views from one end with plumbing (I was already planning to black out that end). Since I am likely going the custom stand route, I could have the stand extended a bit to the side to allow external plumbing to enter from the top (plus more room for the sump). I could also have a matching removable cover made at the same time.

I’m also considering increasing the width to 24”, though I’m not 100% sure about that.
Take a look at this design. We add two levels of removable four inch filter media cups and offer this design in a multitude of sizes. Whatever route you choose, go with the internal overflow. Bracing for it is no big deal. The size you are considering is standard for us. We also plumb for internal returns at no charge and offer unbreakable meshless lexan® lids as well. All the best.
PEN 00.jpg

The top cups are for mechanical filtration. The lower cups are for whatever else you may run. Or, leave all of them out. Everything is removable including the cup ring. In the highly unlikely event of clogged cups, the design is fail safe as the water will flow over the center baffle.



PEN 01.jpg


End view.
PEN 02.jpg

Top view with cups removed. Standard overflow.

PEN 03.jpg
Back view
PEN 04.jpg

Notice the cord pass throughs in the filter wall. Also notice the tight tolerances on the weir slots.
PEN 05.jpg

Sidewall before the application of blackouts. These seams are not cosmetically critical and therefore not "pretty". they will be hidden from view.

PEN 06.jpg


Another side view before blackouts applied.

PEN 07.jpg


Top view.
 

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