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Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED lighting

Biggestfish

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Thanks! It’s a work in progress, the cyano algae is ongoing issue I can’t seem to fix, if I could get that right I would be a lot happier with the DT
I’ve been there. I netted it of the sand once a week , ran GFO, added some flow and eventually it passed. Good luck
 
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iReefer12

iReefer12

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Couple of small updates.

Added a juvenile yellow belly blue tang. Must have been around .5-.75”, so small it could hide in a birdsnest.
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The war against Cyano looks to be turning the corner. The UV looks to be doing the trick for me, I also added a pair of diamond watchmen gobies and they have transformed the sandbed, always wanted a pair of them and LA managed to find me them.

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Switched out an EB8 for an EB832
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FTS September 2018
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iReefer12

iReefer12

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Everything is going well with the tank. Added a lot of fish since September.

Here’s a current fish list:

Foxface Lo
Blue Tang
Multibar Angel
Copperband Butterfly
2 Flame Angel
3 Yellow Damsels
6 Blue Chromis
Twin Spot Tang
Gold Midas Blenny
2 Yellow Watchmen Goby
2 Galdiator Clownfish
2 Rainfordi Goby
1 Diamond Watchmen Goby
2 Bristle Tail Filefish
Earmuff Wrasse
Mitratus Butterfly
Moorish Idol
Melanarus Wrasse

I tried adding a 2nd small Multibar to try and form a pair but was unsuccessful getting him through QT :(.

Also just been working on dialing my CaRX in, about full on the fish side, will look at adding more rock (branches) and then adding more SPS

Full tank shot November 2018

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Top Shelf Aquatics
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iReefer12

iReefer12

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I installed an Arid C36, I hard plumbed it into the manifold, detailed the plumbing below in case anyone is thinking of also hard plumbing an Arid reactor and is looking for ideas.

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Due to needing to open it up to remove chaeto every so often, I decided to add a ball valve after the gate valve, I can dial the right flow in with the gate, then when it comes to opening it up, I just shut off the ball valve without disturbing the settings. Then can open up the drain ball valve to make it less messy when removing chaeto.
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Union to make it easy to remove and clean when needed.
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The outlet with another union. This is where it gets interesting. You’ll notice 2 ball valves, this will allow me to direct flow back to the sump or into the planned frag tank. Also will allow me to isolate the frag tank if I ever feel the need.
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Return line running back to the sump. With all the return pipes from the manifold, the varying flow has helped keep detritus from building up in the sump
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Current flow readings for the return, UV, Arid Reactor, & Carbon Reactor.
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iReefer12

iReefer12

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No problems with my current corals. I have mostly SPS but there’s a torch coral in there, a war coral, and a maze Brain, and havent touched them. Butterfly hasn’t touched the anemone, I doubt anything would touch it tbh, it’s so big and for the most part fish stay away.

Clams on the other hand, they don’t last 24hrs in my tank.
 
Orphek OR3 reef aquarium LED lighting
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iReefer12

iReefer12

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I see some really nice fish in here. And some pretty hard to keep ones too. Do you mind sharing your qt process?

So I virtually don’t QT, I try to buy from reputable stores that I personally trust, Live Aquaria Divers Den, NYAquatic and a few others. Then I match the QT tank water to that the fish will be shipped in.

Upon arrival I float the bag for 45 mins, then open bag, quickly check salinity to verify same as QT, then scoop out and release into QT.

Second day I do a water change with higher Salinity water to bring up the salinity a bit. Then start Prazi-Pro and run for 7 days.

After the week of Prazi-Pro, I start bringing up salinity with water changes over course of a few days.

During this whole time, I’m monitoring to make sure fish is healthy, if after prazi, and bringing salinity up the fish looks healthy, I add them to the DT.

I highly advocate the use an oversized UV, I think that’s why I get away with minimum QT.

The moorish idol is doing great and is super healthy. I lost the Multibar, he just never ate anything I put in, he last about 4 months I assume he was eating something but not enough to sustain him. I frankly believe them to be a fish best left in the ocean.
 

Kayden Hutchings

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So I virtually don’t QT, I try to buy from reputable stores that I personally trust, Live Aquaria Divers Den, NYAquatic and a few others. Then I match the QT tank water to that the fish will be shipped in.

Upon arrival I float the bag for 45 mins, then open bag, quickly check salinity to verify same as QT, then scoop out and release into QT.

Second day I do a water change with higher Salinity water to bring up the salinity a bit. Then start Prazi-Pro and run for 7 days.

After the week of Prazi-Pro, I start bringing up salinity with water changes over course of a few days.

During this whole time, I’m monitoring to make sure fish is healthy, if after prazi, and bringing salinity up the fish looks healthy, I add them to the DT.

I highly advocate the use an oversized UV, I think that’s why I get away with minimum QT.

The moorish idol is doing great and is super healthy. I lost the Multibar, he just never ate anything I put in, he last about 4 months I assume he was eating something but not enough to sustain him. I frankly believe them to be a fish best left in the ocean.
I feel like internal parasite treatment and then reactive treatment is a pretty effective form of qt. I’m sorry about the multibar but I have never really heard of a succes (more than a year) with them. Glad that the moorish idol is doing well. They are definitely one of my favorite fish. You really can’t beat the presence and grace of a healthy specimen.
 
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