Is an RODI water filter really necessary?

DrFlu

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Hello everyone,

I have been reefing with mostly LPS/Softies for the last >10 years and recently gotten some SPS within the last few months. However, i have not been following one of the most basic principles in reef keeping: NOT using RODI water. I have been using tap water with Prime this whole time.

I have to say though, I have not been experiencing any issues as others have reported? I have not been getting cyano, dinos etc. Corals seem fine? I run a Chaeto reactor 24/7 and also a HOG1x algae scrubber. I also run GAC every few months - so that may that probably solves any heavy metals accumulation?

Nitrates: 1ppm (salifert)
Phosphates: 0.03ppm (salifert)

Am i missing something here? Is a RODI unit for reef tanks really a fundamental piece of equipment? I just couldn't justify the purchase of an piece of equipment that is seemingly not required.
 

Gtinnel

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I’ve used the RO Buddie for years and years. They are $62 right now. For such a basic tool to eliminate water quality variables, it’s a no brainer for me. I’m sure there are some real show stopper tap tanks out there tho.
Yep I stand corrected about the price, I forget about the RO Buddie. I personally wouldn't use an rodi that didn't use the standard 10" filters, but I can understand why it works for some people.
 
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Sleeping Giant

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I see @Sleeping Giant is on the thread... I believe he uses Tap, as T-Bay water is exceptionally soft.
I was using tap/prime, but switched to buying RO water after I had a water/salinity issue this summer. I'm doing this until I figure out where I want to install an RODI system.
 
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MaxTremors

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From where I am from, an RODI unit costs ~$200-300 AUD for the most basic 4-stage unit and replacement filter cartridges costs $100 AUD. You guys are lucky to have access to cheaper high quality equipment. I only spent $50 AUD a few years on prime (1L bottle can treat 40 000L of tap water), I have a 200L tank (10% water change per week = 1040L per year). My tap water is around 2-3dkH

In theory 1 x 1L bottle can possibly last 40 years if measured out with complete accuracy. I am still at a loss?
This is the equivalent of the $60 RODI filters that people buy in the US, works out to around $100usd, so still a little more expensive but not crazy.

It really just depends on how good your tap water is, where I live the tap water is undrinkable (it’s safe to drink, just tastes awful), so I can’t imagine putting it in my tank unfiltered.

But to put it on perspective, we may have cheaper equipment, but you guys have much, much cheaper corals. In my reefing career I’ve spent way, way more on coral than I have on equipment, so I’d gladly switch places with you.
 
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DrFlu

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This is the equivalent of the $60 RODI filters that people buy in the US, works out to around $100usd, so still a little more expensive but not crazy.

It really just depends on how good your tap water is, where I live the tap water is undrinkable (it’s safe to drink, just tastes awful), so I can’t imagine putting it in my tank unfiltered.

But to put it on perspective, we may have cheaper equipment, but you guys have much, much cheaper corals. In my reefing career I’ve spent way, way more on coral than I have on equipment, so I’d gladly switch places with you.
Cheaper corals XD haha. No I wouldn't say so, not in my experience. Maybe with the exception of Micromussas (acans) and elegences. Most others seem comparable if not cheaper in the US. We don't even really have any frag swaps running like the US (with the exception of an annual reefstock which has been cancelled for 2 years due to covid).

Although i feel that there is a bigger divide between the price of unnamed SPS corals vs named ones. For instance, a Vivids Rainbow i found at an LFS for a whopping $1200 AUD and the confetti at $400 AUD. I guess thats what happens when you put a marketing name to something.
 
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MaxTremors

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Cheaper corals XD haha. No I wouldn't say so, not in my experience. Maybe with the exception of Micromussas (acans) and elegences. Most others seem comparable if not cheaper in the US. We don't even really have any frag swaps running like the US (with the exception of an annual reefstock which has been cancelled for 2 years due to covid).

Although i feel that there is a bigger divide between the price of unnamed SPS corals vs named ones. For instance, a Vivids Rainbow i found at an LFS for a whopping $1200 AUD and the confetti at $400 AUD. I guess thats what happens when you put a marketing name to something.
There are obviously some non-native or exotic species that are comparably priced, but you guys pay a fraction of what we do for acanthophyllia, cynarina, micromussa, favias, wild acros, scolymia, lobophyllia, symphyllia, trachyphyllia, blastomussa, the list goes on and on, I really don’t think you realize how good you guys have it. Just as an example, on a few different Australian coral retailers i recently saw just average acanthophyllia selling for $45aud ($33 usd), in the US it’d be at least $250. I saw wild acro colonies (COLONIES) for $50-$70aud that would cost several hundred at least. Massive elegances for $35 ($26usd!!!). I could go on and on. Really the only corals I could find that were comparable in price to the US is Euphyllia (mostly just torches), some of the nicer scolymias (though average ones were much cheaper). I didn’t really compare high-end named corals because I don’t think those give an accurate picture of the price differences between countries. I think most people in the US would be floored by the prices that Australian retailers are charging (and also at the size of frags/colonies, I didn’t see too many one polyp/1cm frags).
 
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DrFlu

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Just get a rodi. This hobby is basically about keeping water and why not start with the best base for that.
The price for a decent unit is what, 1-2 corals?
yeah can't pull the trigger. I always end up getting the 1-2 corals instead lol. I see your point though, maybe i've just been extremely lucky over the years.
 
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Sleeping Giant

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You had salinity issues from using tap water?
I had salinity issues, but don't know if the water was not good either. Had a huge loss of corals in the summer. I could go back to tap, but I don't mind using the RO water.
 
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Buckeye Hydro

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The carbon cartridge needs to be replaced every 1500 gallons of water filtered, and the sediment cartridge can last upwards of two years. Replacing the carbon, sediment, and DI cartridges is about $30 total, and I don't have to lug jugs or buckets around. :)
You are apparently buying some very low end carbon filters.
 
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SillyReef

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If tank is doing well, then I would use the cheapest method. Also what is the cost of the water tossed down the drain, RO does waste alot of water.
 
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Buckeye Hydro

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Yet my water comes out at 0 TDS when my tap water is >200 TDS. You're right, they must be trash.
Carbon filters don't remove TDS - that's the job of your membrane and to a much lesser extent, your DI resin. Your carbon block prefilter is intended to treat chlorine and or chloramine.
Carbon blocks are spec'ed in a number of ways, one of which is the "chlorine capacity."
For example, here is a 10" x 2.5" carbon block with a 20,000 gallon chlorine capacity:

Compare that to what you are using (chlorine capacity and price) and you'll see the basis for my comment.

Russ
 
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JoshH

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My city water is only 2ppm but part of that impurity is copper which started to build up over time in my tank causing coral recession. Now I feel like an rodi is more than worth the investment for peace of mind.

Honestly if your TDS is that low, I would maybe skip the RO part and just use a DI filter with sediment and carbon filter. @Buckeye Hydro correct me if I am wrong.
 
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Buckeye Hydro

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Honestly if your TDS is that low, I would maybe skip the RO part and just use a DI filter with sediment and carbon filter. @Buckeye Hydro correct me if I am wrong.
You are correct. Sediment->Carbon->DI->needle valve to reduce flow

However... Based on 25+ years in the water treatment biz I see no way for municipal water to be 2 ppm. Water that clean is aggressive. I suspect there is a measurement error here.

Russ
 
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JoshH

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You are correct. Sediment->Carbon->DI->needle valve to reduce flow

However... Based on 25+ years in the water treatment biz I see no way for municipal water to be 2 ppm. Water that clean is aggressive. I suspect there is a measurement error here.

Russ

I did a thread quite a while ago now that asked reefers about there incoming TDS and I was shocked at how many were below 10 TDS. Not to ruffle any feathers but in some areas it does seem to be a thing. Is it easy to mess up measuring TDS? My only experience in meters are the inline variety and I know they can be installed wrong
 
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