Is it ammonia or disease?

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4 dead in a row, I suspect a 5th soon.

Inhabitants were 2 clown fish added originally. 6 nassiarus snails, 5 cerith, 5 astrea. They were in the tank and did great until I added a mandarin last week (seeded with copepods and was advertised as eating several types of prepared food so wasn't worried about having him in a young tank). Mandarin died after 48 hours. The clown fish then both died over the next 2 days. They all stopped eating, then began heavy breathing, started to swim erratically and seemed to have trouble staying upright, then they would lay on the sand breathing very heavily until they died. Here is a video of the mandarin struggling

I tested parameters before adding the mandarin and many times throughout all of this, readings were never anything abnormal. Also have an ammonia alert that stayed yellow the whole time. I use a temp controller and ATO, so temp and salinity were stable. No issues with any of the snails or copepods during any of this.

I spoke with the online retailer about the mandarin to let them know I suspected velvet since it happened so fast. They explained how unlikely that it was velvet. They thought perhaps it was an overnight ammonia spike in my tank that went unnoticed as the ammonia dropped by morning so I never noticed it. I did add a bottle of copepods and feed phyto the day before the mandarin arrived. Then I fed quite heavily several different foods trying to get the mandarin to eat. That combined with the tank being so young made them suspect it was an ammonia spike. After speaking with them it seemed that was a realistic possibility, so I didn't run the tank fallow to let disease die out and thought it was safe to add new fish.

I did a water change Friday. Then yesterday I added 2 new clowns from a LFS. This morning they both seemed like they were doing good. A few hours ago I notice that the male was suddenly having trouble swimming. Then he dropped down to the sand, was breathing heavily and died within an hour. The female is still swimming around but will not eat and she seems weak and breathing faster than normal. Here is video of these clowns: There is a picture of him before and after death attached. And a picture of the female as of right now.

I tested parameters
Temp: 78
PH: 7.8
Salinity 1.024
Ammonia: .2 - .4
Nitrate: 0

The ammonia alert on the tank is still yellow indicating 0. This is the first time during all of this I have registered anything at all on ammonia so I was surprised to see this. Is this indicating that basically I'm a monster and killing all of these fish with ammonia somehow? Because I was suspecting velvet again until I saw this test. The fish dying within 24 hours seems more to be ammonia than disease, but in that case wouldn't the snails and copepods also be dying off? Snails are all acting normal, nassarius came up for food, glass and refugium is covered in active pods.

I suspect this other clown is going to die soon if I don't figure out the cause. I'm going to do another water change ASAP, have water coming out of the RODI now. But not sure if I should go and buy another tank and set up for copper treatment as well.

Tank history: It's a 32 gallon Biocube. I used 30lbs of Caribsea Arag-Alive sand, and about 30lbs of dry live rock along with a bottle of Dr Tims one and only. I manually added ammonium chloride to get the cycle started. Cycle start was June 29th. About a week later the tank was showing the ability to process 2ppm of ammonia per day. Just to be sure I added 2ppm of ammonia a few times over the next week after that. Each time it was able to process all the ammonia within 24 hours. The first clown fish were added on July 15. July 30th I added some of the snails. A week or two later the rest of the snails were added. I also added a few bottles of copepods throughout this process after the initial cycle. I do have Chaeto growing in one of the back compartments with reverse lighting to the main tank. I have been feeding 10ml of phytoplankton to the tank twice a week to feed the pods.

Thank you for any help. Ive been out of the game for over a decade, but I never had any issues like this before. I had years of smooth sailing. Would like to do everything I can to save this clown if its possible. Really feeling like the fish murderer now :(

20250907_144550.jpg 20250907_142246.jpg 20250907_134805.jpg 20250907_134815.jpg
 

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Sorry to hear about your fish losses. This isn't an "overnight ammonia spike", and sounds more like Velvet to me, but let's let one of the R2R #fishmedic guys take a looks and see what they think.

Good luck going forward!
 
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BIGTEXT

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If the ammonia test is correct, ammonia did not kill the fish. It takes more than 10 ppm of ammonia to kill fish.
Thank you for the response.

I think its correct since the ammonia alert still has no indication of alarm. It functioned correctly during cycling a few months ago.

I really lean towards it being velvet because things were going great until the mandarin was added. But that also confuses me because I didnt think velvet was very common in mandarin fish. Also, it possible for velvet to kill these new clown fish in less than 24 hours? I know velvet is fast but I didn't think it was THAT fast.

The remaining female is deteriorating quickly I think she's beyond saving already. I don't have enough water to get a hospital tank going and no stores are open now being Sunday.

Going forward I'm going to run fallow through the end of the year and then have a separate hospital tank already set up just in case.
 

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I'd like to think one of the #fishmedic guys will be along shortly to help 🙂
 

Jay Hemdal

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4 dead in a row, I suspect a 5th soon.

Inhabitants were 2 clown fish added originally. 6 nassiarus snails, 5 cerith, 5 astrea. They were in the tank and did great until I added a mandarin last week (seeded with copepods and was advertised as eating several types of prepared food so wasn't worried about having him in a young tank). Mandarin died after 48 hours. The clown fish then both died over the next 2 days. They all stopped eating, then began heavy breathing, started to swim erratically and seemed to have trouble staying upright, then they would lay on the sand breathing very heavily until they died. Here is a video of the mandarin struggling

I tested parameters before adding the mandarin and many times throughout all of this, readings were never anything abnormal. Also have an ammonia alert that stayed yellow the whole time. I use a temp controller and ATO, so temp and salinity were stable. No issues with any of the snails or copepods during any of this.

I spoke with the online retailer about the mandarin to let them know I suspected velvet since it happened so fast. They explained how unlikely that it was velvet. They thought perhaps it was an overnight ammonia spike in my tank that went unnoticed as the ammonia dropped by morning so I never noticed it. I did add a bottle of copepods and feed phyto the day before the mandarin arrived. Then I fed quite heavily several different foods trying to get the mandarin to eat. That combined with the tank being so young made them suspect it was an ammonia spike. After speaking with them it seemed that was a realistic possibility, so I didn't run the tank fallow to let disease die out and thought it was safe to add new fish.

I did a water change Friday. Then yesterday I added 2 new clowns from a LFS. This morning they both seemed like they were doing good. A few hours ago I notice that the male was suddenly having trouble swimming. Then he dropped down to the sand, was breathing heavily and died within an hour. The female is still swimming around but will not eat and she seems weak and breathing faster than normal. Here is video of these clowns: There is a picture of him before and after death attached. And a picture of the female as of right now.

I tested parameters
Temp: 78
PH: 7.8
Salinity 1.024
Ammonia: .2 - .4
Nitrate: 0

The ammonia alert on the tank is still yellow indicating 0. This is the first time during all of this I have registered anything at all on ammonia so I was surprised to see this. Is this indicating that basically I'm a monster and killing all of these fish with ammonia somehow? Because I was suspecting velvet again until I saw this test. The fish dying within 24 hours seems more to be ammonia than disease, but in that case wouldn't the snails and copepods also be dying off? Snails are all acting normal, nassarius came up for food, glass and refugium is covered in active pods.

I suspect this other clown is going to die soon if I don't figure out the cause. I'm going to do another water change ASAP, have water coming out of the RODI now. But not sure if I should go and buy another tank and set up for copper treatment as well.

Tank history: It's a 32 gallon Biocube. I used 30lbs of Caribsea Arag-Alive sand, and about 30lbs of dry live rock along with a bottle of Dr Tims one and only. I manually added ammonium chloride to get the cycle started. Cycle start was June 29th. About a week later the tank was showing the ability to process 2ppm of ammonia per day. Just to be sure I added 2ppm of ammonia a few times over the next week after that. Each time it was able to process all the ammonia within 24 hours. The first clown fish were added on July 15. July 30th I added some of the snails. A week or two later the rest of the snails were added. I also added a few bottles of copepods throughout this process after the initial cycle. I do have Chaeto growing in one of the back compartments with reverse lighting to the main tank. I have been feeding 10ml of phytoplankton to the tank twice a week to feed the pods.

Thank you for any help. Ive been out of the game for over a decade, but I never had any issues like this before. I had years of smooth sailing. Would like to do everything I can to save this clown if its possible. Really feeling like the fish murderer now :(

20250907_144550.jpg 20250907_142246.jpg 20250907_134805.jpg 20250907_134815.jpg


It wasn’t ’transient overnight ammonia” - that just isn’t a thing.

Given that your tank was converting 2ppm ammonia months ago, I think you can 100% rule out ammonia toxicity unless you did something to kill off the beneficial bacteria since then.

If the tank has good aeration (not just circulation) - air bubble breaking the surface (protein skimmers do that, so do air stones) then low oxygen /high carbon dioxide can be ruled out. If the tank doesn’t have good aeration, you should add it. The 7.8 pH is borderline low, showing possible poor gas exchange.

After that, then Amyloodinium/velvet is the next likely diagnosis.
 
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It wasn’t ’transient overnight ammonia” - that just isn’t a thing.

Given that your tank was converting 2ppm ammonia months ago, I think you can 100% rule out ammonia toxicity unless you did something to kill off the beneficial bacteria since then.

If the tank has good aeration (not just circulation) - air bubble breaking the surface (protein skimmers do that, so do air stones) then low oxygen /high carbon dioxide can be ruled out. If the tank doesn’t have good aeration, you should add it. The 7.8 pH is borderline low, showing possible poor gas exchange.

After that, then Amyloodinium/velvet is the next likely diagnosis.
Thank you for the reply!

I just did another test and it looks more like ph of 8 now. I always struggle to read the color precisely.

Surface agitation is good I think

Would it help the ph to run the refigum light 24/7?

I dont run a skimmer. I stuck my emergency airstones in will see if that makes a difference. She's starting to have more trouble swimming flat. Seems to always be pitched up now which is what the male also did before getting worse.

More video if it helps
 

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Thank you for the reply!

I just did another test and it looks more like ph of 8 now. I always struggle to read the color precisely.

Surface agitation is good I think

Would it help the ph to run the refigum light 24/7?

I dont run a skimmer. I stuck my emergency airstones in will see if that makes a difference. She's starting to have more trouble swimming flat. Seems to always be pitched up now which is what the male also did before getting worse.

More video if it helps


I like to run refugium lighting opposite of the tank lights, not 24/7.

The aeration is sufficient now, so that rules out lack of aeration. That just leaves gill disease. Velvet is the most common one. Treating is fine using coppersafe in a hospital tank. However, is the fish still eating? If so, it may be coccidia, which clownfish can get, but which there is no treatment.
 
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I like to run refugium lighting opposite of the tank lights, not 24/7.

The aeration is sufficient now, so that rules out lack of aeration. That just leaves gill disease. Velvet is the most common one. Treating is fine using coppersafe in a hospital tank. However, is the fish still eating? If so, it may be coccidia, which clownfish can get, but which there is no treatment.

She didn't make it through the night unfortunately. So it seems like I will need to run fallow a few months.

All the fish stopped eating as the first symptom I noticed.

Wish I knew if the original clowns were infected from the get go and it just took a few months before it got bad enough to start killing, or if the mandarin came infected and started all of this.

After this experience I think I will do a copper quarantine for all new fish.

Thanks again for the assistance!
 

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A freshwater dip when you got the fish might have prevented this....simple and highly effective, especially for some things.

An observational QT tank would have been great here. Gives you a chance to watch out for things like this for a period of time before the fish go into the display.

While in QT it's possible you'd treat one or more of the fish in some way (eg copper), but possibly not. An extra hospital/treatment tank is nice to have for some harsh short-term treatments.

There's no reason to treat fish with chemicals that do not display illness.

Also, a strong UV (sized for parasites, not just algae) and maybe a micron filter would both be advised (on the display or QT either one) if you're going to continue buying livestock sight-unseen.....always very risky. Even if you start buying locally, they're still not a bad idea.

UV/micron filtration is also something that might have prevented this from happening. Without UV (and/or micron filtration) and an acticvely sick fish in the tank, there's almost nothing to keep parasite "swarmer" populations from ballooning out of control beyond what any fish immune system can handle.

FYI, we are still making an assumption that your issue is Velvet, but in case that's correct (it is pretty likely) this article from the journal Aquaculture is very interesting:

Velvet (Amyloodinium) infections in fish can easily be avoided.​

 

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A freshwater dip when you got the fish might have prevented this....simple and highly effective, especially for some things.

An observational QT tank would have been great here. Gives you a chance to watch out for things like this for a period of time before the fish go into the display.

While in QT it's possible you'd treat one or more of the fish in some way (eg copper), but possibly not. An extra hospital/treatment tank is nice to have for some harsh short-term treatments.

There's no reason to treat fish with chemicals that do not display illness.

Also, a strong UV (sized for parasites, not just algae) and maybe a micron filter would both be advised (on the display or QT either one) if you're going to continue buying livestock sight-unseen.....always very risky. Even if you start buying locally, they're still not a bad idea.

UV/micron filtration is also something that might have prevented this from happening. Without UV (and/or micron filtration) and an acticvely sick fish in the tank, there's almost nothing to keep parasite "swarmer" populations from ballooning out of control beyond what any fish immune system can handle.

FYI, we are still making an assumption that your issue is Velvet, but in case that's correct (it is pretty likely) this article from the journal Aquaculture is very interesting:

Velvet (Amyloodinium) infections in fish can easily be avoided.​


Just to add some clarification - if this was Amyloodinium/velvet, FW dips won’t help.

Velvet can survive long term down to 4 ppt, and cysts deep in the gills can survive pure FW longer than the fish can.
 
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BIGTEXT

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I do have a QT setup coming along. The rest of the supplies arrive today. I go on a week long vacation next month so will be waiting until after vacation to add water and get it going. Planning on following Jays "Current Quarantine Protocol".

Crazy I had years of good luck before. The mandarin that seems to of started all of this came from Biota which seems to have a good reputation. So was surprised this happened.
 

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Just to add some clarification - if this was Amyloodinium/velvet, FW dips won’t help.

Velvet can survive long term down to 4 ppt, and cysts deep in the gills can survive pure FW longer than the fish can.
(Clarification: If you meant that a dip won't cure an outbreak, I would agree. But I'd also clarify that I didn't say that it would. 😜 Leaving that aside, assuming you meant what I meant in post #11 then I'd like to share more info...)

"...won't help" is not what I read in Noga, "Fish Disease, Diagnosis and Treatment", p.146....nor what I have experienced. FWIW, SRAC doc #4705 (found here) also mentions this – as well as a ton of other great practical info on Velvet. (A lot of it is in the face of the folk knowledge in the hobby, which (in a nutshell) seems to either be "do nothing" or "go nuclear" without (enough) grounding in reality either way.)

A freshwater bath before the fish are introduced is good advice.

It may also be worth emphasizing that my advice was not specific to Velvet. In the thread, Velvet was merely someone's presumption...an educated guess based on limited evidence.

There weren't the usual array of Velvet symptoms and no post mortem, so some question remains. Post #9 was kinda the end of diagnosis and it ended with questions rather than answers.

Freshwater dips are a broadly effective anti-pest move (look at how many times they and saltwater dips for freshwater fish are mentioned in "Fish Disease...") that costs almost nothing, takes almost time, causes almost no stress if done with care...and considering all this they are also amazingly (not perfectly) effective. Noga even mentions boosting the dip's effectiveness to 100% with peroxide, but I haven't personally experimented with that.

I have always thought it would be great if there was more emphasis on the science and established academic literature in this realm.....seems like most folks in the hobby have never heard of Ed Noga nor the SRAC....both ought to be staples in the hobby IMO.

That SRAC PDF I linked outlines the whole process for anyone intersted in knowing about it or trying it out.
 

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(Clarification: If you meant that a dip won't cure an outbreak, I would agree. But I'd also clarify that I didn't say that it would. 😜 Leaving that aside, assuming you meant what I meant in post #11 then I'd like to share more info...)

"...won't help" is not what I read in Noga, "Fish Disease, Diagnosis and Treatment", p.146....nor what I have experienced. FWIW, SRAC doc #4705 (found here) also mentions this – as well as a ton of other great practical info on Velvet. (A lot of it is in the face of the folk knowledge in the hobby, which (in a nutshell) seems to either be "do nothing" or "go nuclear" without (enough) grounding in reality either way.)

A freshwater bath before the fish are introduced is good advice.

It may also be worth emphasizing that my advice was not specific to Velvet. In the thread, Velvet was merely someone's presumption...an educated guess based on limited evidence.

There weren't the usual array of Velvet symptoms and no post mortem, so some question remains. Post #9 was kinda the end of diagnosis and it ended with questions rather than answers.

Freshwater dips are a broadly effective anti-pest move (look at how many times they and saltwater dips for freshwater fish are mentioned in "Fish Disease...") that costs almost nothing, takes almost time, causes almost no stress if done with care...and considering all this they are also amazingly (not perfectly) effective. Noga even mentions boosting the dip's effectiveness to 100% with peroxide, but I haven't personally experimented with that.

I have always thought it would be great if there was more emphasis on the science and established academic literature in this realm.....seems like most folks in the hobby have never heard of Ed Noga nor the SRAC....both ought to be staples in the hobby IMO.

That SRAC PDF I linked outlines the whole process for anyone intersted in knowing about it or trying it out.

Sorry - I'm not sure what you mean with referencing Dr. Francis-Floyd's SRAC article, she is pretty "old school" and not really in touch with home aquarists, but she did write:

"Repeated dips in fresh water may help reduce the number of dinospores available to re-infect fish; however, unless fish can be moved into a completely freshwater system the disease will not be controlled because Amyloodinium can complete its life cycle in brackish water."

That pretty much echoes what I had posted. The key word there is "may". She isn't sure. However, she does confirm that unless the fish is moved to pure freshwater (not likely, unless it is a brackish species) the disease will "not" be controlled.

Noga is referencing Kingsford, who was active back in the 1970's, and then he says "most" dinospores are removed, but it only takes a small number remaining to continue the infection, and that's what I said, the dinospores deep in the gill mucus will NOT be removed by a FW dip, rendering it ineffective.

I have Kingsford's original book - after he talks about FW dips, he goes on to say, "Some organisms may remain inaccessible in the gills, possibly protected by mucus, so that subsequent treatment with copper is necessary." That's also my point.

Dip and move to a sterile tank can work, if done at least three times, and then, hydrogen peroxide at 100 ppm in seawater is the dip of choice.

As I mentioned, my post was contingent on this being Velvet, and I'm not positive that is the case, only that FW dips won't help if it is.


Jay
 
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