Is my tank (almost) cycled?

[ScubaSkeets]

Hi folks!
Here are my API results (I know, U know, but that's what I have) High PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

Ammonia concerns me a bit, but from what others say, API gives false reading on ammonia. Nitites were at 2.0 PPM (maybe 5.0...the colors on the card are so close!) the day before yesterday, but now it looks like 0. Nitrates look like 20 PPM. Should I wait a little longer, or no?
Also, rather than do a 50% water change to reduce the Nitrates, is there another way. I read in another thread that Micro-Lift Special Blend removes Nitrates. I hate to dump 50 gallons of relatively good ('cept for the Nitrates) down the drain.

 

[Spare time]

Honestly I have used API tests well over a hundred times (dozens of kits) and I have rarely seen it give 0.25 ammonia when there is not reason for it. I have done it so many times working in an LFS for 3 years

I would wait till nitrites are at 0, then do a big water change, and then you are good to go. There is no need to rush. If you want to try and lower the nitrates, maybe check out dr tims waste away (I think its similar to special blend but that stuff SMELLS).

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Honestly I have used API tests well over a hundred times (dozens of kits) and I have rarely seen it give 0.25 ammonia when there is not reason for it. I have done it so many times working in an LFS for 3 years

I would wait till nitrites are at 0, then do a big water change, and then you are good to go. There is no need to rush. If you want to try and lower the nitrates, maybe check out dr tims waste away (I think its similar to special blend but that stuff SMELLS).

Thanks.
I did use ammonia to start the cycle, so there would be a reason why it would read ammonia, but I dont know if the ammonia reading here is just a "false reading" (would the 0 nitrites verify if the ammonia reading is false, since the nitrites were at 2.0-5.0 a couple days ago?)

 

[olonmv]

Ammonia should teeter between yellow and hint of green, nitrites solution should be a light blue. Nitrates are removed via water change. I look for yellow and light blue for my test outcomes. I ditched the API nitrates test for red seas.

 

[Spare time]

Thanks.
I did use ammonia to start the cycle, so there would be a reason why it would read ammonia, but I dont know if the ammonia reading here is just a "false reading" (would the 0 nitrites verify if the ammonia reading is false, since the nitrites were at 2.0-5.0 a couple days ago?)

If you have no nitrites, then it would likely be that there is no ammonia as that the nitrite bacteria takes longer to reproduce compared to the ammonia removing bacteria

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Hi folks!
Here are my API results (I know, U know, but that's what I have) High PH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate.

Ammonia concerns me a bit, but from what others say, API gives false reading on ammonia. Nitites were at 2.0 PPM (maybe 5.0...the colors on the card are so close!) the day before yesterday, but now it looks like 0. Nitrates look like 20 PPM. Should I wait a little longer, or no?
Also, rather than do a 50% water change to reduce the Nitrates, is there another way. I read in another thread that Micro-Lift Special Blend removes Nitrates. I hate to dump 50 gallons of relatively good ('cept for the Nitrates) down the drain.

Oops. I said "here are my results", but just noticed, I didn't attach the pic.

 

[brandon429]

Scuba your cycle has been fixed already

Ammonia at .25 PPM. Water change or wait?

Hi folks! After my water change last week, my ammonia read 0 (API). Always does. However, after yesterday's water change (approx 20%), the ammonia is reading .25PPM. Tested 3 times. The fish seem fine, but I'm freaking out! I added Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II, but this morning it is still...

www.reef2reef.com

it will help to know you are cycled.

others covered it here too, you are aware of the api testing issues

Another ammonia dosing question

Hi folks! There is another recent similar thread about this, but I didn't want to hijack that one. I am cycling my aquarium using the ammonia method. My ammonia is @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrite @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrate @ 40 ppm. I also have live rock, live sand and dosed bottle bacteria. Per algone.com...

www.reef2reef.com

post a picture of your matured rocks, how long you’ve had them in the tank, and folks in this new thread can help to show its cycled. Don’t leave out the fact you are dealing with already cycled rocks in your new post descriptions, that will help troubleshooters to know where you stand. Without you stating you have already live rocks, and only the test kit, cycle helpers might think you are working with uncycled dry rocks. They can’t know your rocks have full coralline, living animals and got to you already wet and cycled unless you include that detail in pics or on the post

 

[brandon429]

since you paid extra for cycled rocks vs dry ones, it’s important to know you can begin reefing last month. An important detail missing from today’s post is that there are live animals on your live rock doing fine, you’re actually already reefing for a few weeks since the rocks have sat in your tank. Cycling is for adding bacteria, you paid for rocks that were already full.



nitrate management means you are done cycling, and into reefing. Nitrate = cycle complete, and api ammonia has already been covered in prior threads linked. Your cycle is done

buy a fish, or a coral, add them to the living animals the tank already has attached to the live rock.

show this picture of your rocks on each post for accurate feedback with context

notice the ammonia alert badge reading zero. In today’s post, all the relevant info was left out, they didn’t know you have another ammonia test showing zero after adding a lot of ammonia to the ready rocks.

go to pet store

buy a fish, release it into the tank...

it’s not that you’re almost ready, it’s that you’ve been ready for weeks and have already been fixed right up. Time to begin reefing

 

[ScubaSkeets]

Scuba you are on your fourth new thread for a cycled tank

Ammonia at .25 PPM. Water change or wait?

Hi folks! After my water change last week, my ammonia read 0 (API). Always does. However, after yesterday's water change (approx 20%), the ammonia is reading .25PPM. Tested 3 times. The fish seem fine, but I'm freaking out! I added Microbe-Lift Nite-Out II, but this morning it is still...

www.reef2reef.com

it will help to know you are cycled.

others covered it here too, you are aware of the api testing issues

Another ammonia dosing question

Hi folks! There is another recent similar thread about this, but I didn't want to hijack that one. I am cycling my aquarium using the ammonia method. My ammonia is @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrite @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrate @ 40 ppm. I also have live rock, live sand and dosed bottle bacteria. Per algone.com...

www.reef2reef.com

post a picture of your matured rocks, how long you’ve had them in the tank, and folks in this new thread can help for #5 to show its cycled. Don’t leave out the fact you are dealing with already cycled rocks in your new post descriptions.

Brandon,
I appreciate your help on here, but everyone is a "newbie" at one point. I get that it's frustrating to see multiple posts, that seem to be repetitive, but my two (the other two do not count as one was about ammonia readings on my established tank, and the other was about cold water affecting the cycle on the new tank).
I feel that the other two were legitimate, distinct questions. Ammonia terrifies me (well, thats prob a little exaggerated), especially when adding the stuff directly into the water, when even the slightest trace could be detrimental, so I want to be 100% sure that I'm doing this right.

(I promise, no more ammonia questions from me)

Besides, the posts promoted my from "New Member" to "Community Member"

 

[brandon429]

how a post is titled affects your feedback, troubleshooters respond to the thread title not the actual cycle info.

if you wrote “have cycled rocks, api shows some ammonia” then everyone will agree it’s a misread.


wanted to show how important context is for cycle troubleshoots, and how cycle troubleshoots do not use objective means for closing a cycle, they use wait longer even if it’s done.

we have to know the details beyond the api readings

does your alert badge ease some of the concern, people like those more than they like api... it’s nice you have a confirming safe test on file too, to balance out the api ones.


your water smells normal because the alert badge is right. If you had free ammonia you can smell it easily. Once you add some animals and enjoy them you’ll see we just want you to trust bacteria no worries. Free ammonia is a total reef killer, its a justified concern but you’ve also bested it too in your careful wait. Time to reef, acclimate the animals to match your temp and salinity and they’re going to work out great.

 

[ScubaSkeets]

It’s helpful to see in pattern that others beyond me agree you are ok

how a post is titled affects your feedback, troubleshooters respond to the thread title not the actual cycle info.

if you wrote “have cycled rocks, api shows some ammonia” then everyone will agree it’s a misread.


wanted to show how important context is for cycle troubleshoots

we have to know the details beyond the api readings

does your alert badge ease some of the concern, people like those more than they like api... it’s nice you have a confirming safe test on file too, to balance out the api ones.

Actually, the badge is not 100% in the yellow. Close, but not 100%. Not a very good pic but,

OLONMV: "Ammonia should teeter between yellow and hint of green"...and that's exactly where it is.

Not arguing or questioning the expertise. I am ready!

Gonna go and buy $100s in fish and coral today and add them all at once! Woot!
(Not)

Quick question: Do you think Microbe-Lift Special Blend, or something similar, could take the place of the 50 gallon water change, or would you suggest just doing the water change? Or do you have another suggestion? Again, I'd hate to throw 50 gallons of water down the drain.

 

[olonmv]

Actually, the badge is not 100% in the yellow. Close, but not 100%. Not a very good pic but,

OLONMV: "Ammonia should teeter between yellow and hint of green"...and that's exactly where it is.

Not arguing or questioning the expertise. I am ready!

Gonna go and buy $100s in fish and coral today and add them all at once! Woot!

Quick question: Do you think Microbe-Lift Special Blend, or something similar, could take the place of the 50 gallon water change, or would you suggest just doing the water change? Or do you have another suggestion? Again, I'd hate to throw 50 gallons of water down the drain.

I’m by far anywhere’s near experienced lol but I’ve been through the cycle process recently and know that once you’ve gone through the 3 major spikes you’re pretty much ready. Take it slow on livestock. I like to add a little at a time and keep an eye for normal behavior. Plus it’s better to add little by little in order to not overwhelm the existing bacteria and give it a chance to populate.

 

[olonmv]

Add a bacteria in the mornings to help solidify the cycle....I use stability by seachem.

 

[brandon429]

this rock has no more room for added bacteria because it’s full on bacteria


theres nothing left to do or supplement, the cycle is done

 

[Aqua Man]

Again, I'd hate to throw 50 gallons of water down the drain.

Really depends on how high your Nitrates are.

 

[brandon429]

Nitrate test kits report 50 ppm ranges on the same sample, no titration kits are accepted as correct especially api nitrate. Time to cease testing for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate for *3 months* don’t even run them no joke, its removing enjoyability from you

simply add some life. Paul Bs tank runs 160 ppm nitrate (approximately lol) so there is no problem here. Add life, you’ll be so happy they’ll be fine.

I know there is no way in humanity you aren’t going to run the cycling tests for three months (all the rules we’ve been trained on tell us to do this and to doubt, agreed they do) but if you did, your reefing would change course for the better permanently. The repeat testing coming up is going to have you on the retail purchase and react dole for the life of the reef, it will help you to shift focus to calcium and alk testing instead, something not related to cycling.

 

[olonmv]

Good point. My tank is cycled, I still like adding bacteria when I see a bloom. Helps me not overly worry about my livestock.