Another ammonia dosing question

ScubaSkeets

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Hi folks!
There is another recent similar thread about this, but I didn't want to hijack that one.

I am cycling my aquarium using the ammonia method.

My ammonia is @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrite @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrate @ 40 ppm.
I also have live rock, live sand and dosed bottle bacteria.
Per algone.com, it says that when ammonia and nitrite are at similar levels, to keep adding ammonia (less amount) until ammonia and nitrite are at 0.
Now, that seems kinda counterintuitive to me. Why would I want to add more ammonia when it is already @ 0.50ppm? I would think that I should add ammonia when it reaches 0, but before I add fish, in order to keep the cycle going.

So should I continue to add ammonia now, or should I wait until the ammonia and nitrite are 0, and then add more, wait 24 hours to see if both go to 0, and then safely add fish (after water change to reduce Nitrates)?
 

Specific Ocean

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If you have live rock that’s established, you shouldn’t have to add more.

question is, how big is your tank and how many pounds of live rock do you have.

pictures help
 

lafarrow

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I know you were using it a different product but Dr. Tim’s instructions say:
‘If the ammonia or nitrite values are over 5 ppm NH3-N skip the next addition of ammonia drops.’
 

Chrysemys

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You are feeding the bacteria. You don’t want them to run completely out of food for an extended period of time. You are also trying to increase the population, a surplus of feed allows that. Right now dosing the “less amount” of ammonia is imitating having live fish in you system. You don’t want to add those fish until it is clear that what they produce will be processed by the bacteria quick enough to maintain ~zero ppm
 

Reeflux

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Hi folks!
There is another recent similar thread about this, but I didn't want to hijack that one.

I am cycling my aquarium using the ammonia method.

My ammonia is @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrite @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrate @ 40 ppm.
I also have live rock, live sand and dosed bottle bacteria.
Per algone.com, it says that when ammonia and nitrite are at similar levels, to keep adding ammonia (less amount) until ammonia and nitrite are at 0.
Now, that seems kinda counterintuitive to me. Why would I want to add more ammonia when it is already @ 0.50ppm? I would think that I should add ammonia when it reaches 0, but before I add fish, in order to keep the cycle going.

So should I continue to add ammonia now, or should I wait until the ammonia and nitrite are 0, and then add more, wait 24 hours to see if both go to 0, and then safely add fish (after water change to reduce

Hi folks!
There is another recent similar thread about this, but I didn't want to hijack that one.

I am cycling my aquarium using the ammonia method.

My ammonia is @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrite @ 0.50 ppm; Nitrate @ 40 ppm.
I also have live rock, live sand and dosed bottle bacteria.
Per algone.com, it says that when ammonia and nitrite are at similar levels, to keep adding ammonia (less amount) until ammonia and nitrite are at 0.
Now, that seems kinda counterintuitive to me. Why would I want to add more ammonia when it is already @ 0.50ppm? I would think that I should add ammonia when it reaches 0, but before I add fish, in order to keep the cycle going.

So should I continue to add ammonia now, or should I wait until the ammonia and nitrite are 0, and then add more, wait 24 hours to see if both go to 0, and then safely add fish (after water change to reduce Nitrates)?
I would not add any additional ammonia at this point. Just wait until you hit 0.

You've got enough in there if you've been doing it for awhile.

It's just messing with your readings on your tests now.
 

brandon429

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This tank was cycled we already fixed it last week in a different thread about the tank.


Test kit looping is happening-the false cycle stalled cycle thing/ google has years worth on file like this one. Pics will again fix this tank


need pics of the live rock as Scuba mentioned

live rock shows up ready.

if your rocks meet those criteria, you are done cycling and can add life. no test kits made the decision there, only origin of rock was factored.
 
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Joe31415

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Can you link to where you're reading that. I have a feeling it's not "it says that when ammonia and nitrite are at similar levels, to keep adding ammonia (less amount) until ammonia and nitrite are at 0." but rather something more along the lines of telling you that the cycle is done when you can add ammonia and have it disappear within 24 hours.
Also, I've never heard of algone, but it doesn't seem like you'd want an ammonia/nitirite/nitrate remove in your tank while you're trying to build up your colonies of nitrifying bacteria.
 
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ScubaSkeets

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This tank was cycled we already fixed it last week in a different thread about the tank.
This is another tank. Here is a pic:
20210131_114412.jpg

Its got 80 lbs of live sand, 20 lbs of aragonite, "that much" rock, and since it still looks bare, I just ordered another 40 lbs of live rock
 
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ScubaSkeets

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Can you link to where you're reading that. I have a feeling it's not "it says that when ammonia and nitrite are at similar levels, to keep adding ammonia (less amount) until ammonia and nitrite are at 0." but rather something more along the lines of telling you that the cycle is done when you can add ammonia and have it disappear within 24 hours.

Quote:
"Ammonia will rise to five ppm and higher. As soon as nitrites are measurable, reduce the ammonia input to three drops per day. Nitrites will rise to similar levels. Keep adding two to three drops until the measurements of ammonia and nitrites come out with zero ppm. The tank has then completely cycled."
 

Joe31415

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They didn't really spell it out very well, but what they're saying is if you can add 3 drops (per 10 gallons) and both ammonia and nitrite go down to zero, you have enough bacteria.
I think the implication is that you test it before you dose. Basically, you add some ammonia and then check the ammonia and nitrite levels 24 hours later.
But it should be noted that algone isn't bacteria and isn't for cycling. I'm not saying that their directions are inherently wrong (I really didn't read them that closely), but if you want better cycling instructions check the website for bacteria that you used. They have a vested interest in making sure it's easy to understand and works well.
 

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