Is Ruby Rally Pro and Kick-Ich Pro reef safe?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gabbone
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Very interesting discussion, really appreciate the effort!

However, still looking for final answer about "is ruby reef pro reef safe in dt"?
I can tell you this… unfortunately, because of my own fault, I introduced disease into my 180 gallon display with previously fully quarantined fish.

I qt myself but I do not have the space or tanks to pull every fish at the same time, so as a Hail Mary, I am doing the rally pro and kick ich treatment. You can follow along on my build page if desired. However, I have finished the rally pro treatment with an extended time frame and I am still following the dose for kick ich. So far my mixed reef is doing great. All I see on my fish currently is ich. I have one more dose to go on their instructions but they also say to keep dosing two weeks minimum after the last visible ich is seen. I fully expect to keep going a little bit longer.

But my clam, inverts, corals and fish are ok currently.
 
Salifert says flatworm exit is safe.
Is was no for two of my fish.
This two consumed some dying flatworms and died in 30 minutes.

So maybe the dose of something is “safe” but can initiate collertal damage.

Always the risk of the unknown or unanticipated
 
bacterial, velvet, Definitely Brook and secondary issues
I'm going to somewhat disagree - They say that it treats xxx - but - offer no proof. Unless acriflavine and aminoacridine treats brooklynella - in which case we should be recommending that? I called the company and spoke with them - there is a trivial amount of formaldehyde in the product. I didn't just google it. This is one of those products that I just have to wonder whether the affected fish would have survived anyway (BTW - not talking about a dip - which is different) - but just the concentration recommended for a 'display tank'. Have you really had success in a display tank with bacterial (?) velvet and definitely brook?
 
I can tell you this… unfortunately, because of my own fault, I introduced disease into my 180 gallon display with previously fully quarantined fish.

I qt myself but I do not have the space or tanks to pull every fish at the same time, so as a Hail Mary, I am doing the rally pro and kick ich treatment. You can follow along on my build page if desired. However, I have finished the rally pro treatment with an extended time frame and I am still following the dose for kick ich. So far my mixed reef is doing great. All I see on my fish currently is ich. I have one more dose to go on their instructions but they also say to keep dosing two weeks minimum after the last visible ich is seen. I fully expect to keep going a little bit longer.

But my clam, inverts, corals and fish are ok currently.
Awesome that things are getting better - and just to be clear - your fish had Ich - (you didn't say the disease - and implied they were left with ich) - And secondly - curious - are you saying the disease came into your tank via previously quarantined fish (If so was it an LFS or a vendor - you don't need to mention names) - agree with you about increasing the dose a little longer if you're using the product - however - just to suggest - your fish just may be gaining some immunity.

Lastly - can you let everyone know what you did to introduce disease into your tank - for informations sake as compared to criticism. Again assuming you're dosing in a display tank - can you mention the types of coral you're keeping - and thumbs up - hopefully everything is doing ok!!!
 
The active ingredients - according to a phone conversation with the company are acriflavine and aminoacridine. The formaldehyde - as has been posted on multiple sites Is a non-issue - and I would not think its treating anything.
 
I'm going to somewhat disagree - They say that it treats xxx - but - offer no proof. Unless acriflavine and aminoacridine treats brooklynella - in which case we should be recommending that? I called the company and spoke with them - there is a trivial amount of formaldehyde in the product. I didn't just google it. This is one of those products that I just have to wonder whether the affected fish would have survived anyway (BTW - not talking about a dip - which is different) - but just the concentration recommended for a 'display tank'. Have you really had success in a display tank with bacterial (?) velvet and definitely brook?
I dont know of it treating ich and I tell everyone it does not. Have you used this long term as I have?.
If I recall, you never heard of it until I brought up a year or so ago. The company will tell you what you want to hear. Seeing it work and has worked for others is My testimony.
Ive used this with a Mixed reef more than once and no negative results.
 
To answer your question OP, for my tank Kick Ich and Ruby Reef Pro have been safe for my corals and inverts. I use Kick Ich occasionally to treat Ich when it pops up. I believe I’ve had to use it twice in a few years.
I used Ruby Reef a while ago to treat brook and it did treat it. I also used oral abx mixed with their food at that time.
 
Awesome that things are getting better - and just to be clear - your fish had Ich - (you didn't say the disease - and implied they were left with ich) - And secondly - curious - are you saying the disease came into your tank via previously quarantined fish (If so was it an LFS or a vendor - you don't need to mention names) - agree with you about increasing the dose a little longer if you're using the product - however - just to suggest - your fish just may be gaining some immunity.

Lastly - can you let everyone know what you did to introduce disease into your tank - for informations sake as compared to criticism. Again assuming you're dosing in a display tank - can you mention the types of coral you're keeping - and thumbs up - hopefully everything is doing ok!!!
So I think the last page or two of my tank build page sums it up but in a nutshell, I have a mixed reef with maybe 50% acros and the rest are LPS and softies.

My fish are 90% qt by myself using httm. I have also purchased qt fish from fish hotel of which I highly recommend.

My fish were introduced to disease by me adding new fish that I tried something new with and it failed miserably. Short story is that I have a dream fish called Naso Elegans (blonde Naso). I have tried to qt one 3 separate times and each died within a week to 3 weeks. I have tried 2 or 3 times to buy a pre quarantine blonde Naso but they too did not make it through professional qt… (to be clear I never received one).
My good friend imports coral and sometimes fish. Basically he said here are 5 blonde Naso.
Against my better judgment I had decided to skip my httm and try safety stop. I then placed 2 of them into my 180 and 3 into my 65 gallon. These guys were babies and I only wanted one. I was planning to give any other survivors away to my lfs or etc.

In a couple of days, they started to pass and then my whitetail tang and a couple of others passed just as quickly. I THINK it was velvet and ich. But there was 100% more than just ich.

As of the today, since starting up my Treatment in the display, things have cleared up and there have been no more deaths. I know the ich life cycle and plan to continue dosing beyond the recommended instructions. One reason I posted about this on my build thread and here is because information on this treatment is spotty. IF it works at all, I think both need to be used because there are often misdiagnosis. Some negative reviews I’ve seen include people who only dosed one product and not both or quit the doses all together because they had a coral die or something. My dumb mistake will at least hopefully offer real world experience on the product. Currently I’m done with rally pro and have dosed the recommended 5 of 6 doses of kick ich with more to follow. They recommend two additional weeks after the last ich is seen on a fish. So it is unknown how much longer I have as of yet.
IMG_0861.png
 
So I think the last page or two of my tank build page sums it up but in a nutshell, I have a mixed reef with maybe 50% acros and the rest are LPS and softies.

My fish are 90% qt by myself using httm. I have also purchased qt fish from fish hotel of which I highly recommend.

My fish were introduced to disease by me adding new fish that I tried something new with and it failed miserably. Short story is that I have a dream fish called Naso Elegans (blonde Naso). I have tried to qt one 3 separate times and each died within a week to 3 weeks. I have tried 2 or 3 times to buy a pre quarantine blonde Naso but they too did not make it through professional qt… (to be clear I never received one).
My good friend imports coral and sometimes fish. Basically he said here are 5 blonde Naso.
Against my better judgment I had decided to skip my httm and try safety stop. I then placed 2 of them into my 180 and 3 into my 65 gallon. These guys were babies and I only wanted one. I was planning to give any other survivors away to my lfs or etc.

In a couple of days, they started to pass and then my whitetail tang and a couple of others passed just as quickly. I THINK it was velvet and ich. But there was 100% more than just ich.

As of the today, since starting up my Treatment in the display, things have cleared up and there have been no more deaths. I know the ich life cycle and plan to continue dosing beyond the recommended instructions. One reason I posted about this on my build thread and here is because information on this treatment is spotty. IF it works at all, I think both need to be used because there are often misdiagnosis. Some negative reviews I’ve seen include people who only dosed one product and not both or quit the doses all together because they had a coral die or something. My dumb mistake will at least hopefully offer real world experience on the product. Currently I’m done with rally pro and have dosed the recommended 5 of 6 doses of kick ich with more to follow. They recommend two additional weeks after the last ich is seen on a fish. So it is unknown how much longer I have as of yet.
IMG_0861.png
Thanks for the update. I have a few questions:

- Do you need to keep off uv and skimmer for the whole treatment?
- They say to remove the carbon media. Can we stock it somewhere and then re-use the same media after the treatment?
 
Thanks for the update. I have a few questions:

- Do you need to keep off uv and skimmer for the whole treatment?
- They say to remove the carbon media. Can we stock it somewhere and then re-use the same media after the treatment?
Yes you are instructed to remove anything that can pull the medication including carbon, uv, and skimmers. Surprisingly I saw on their web site they say phosphate removers are ok. But check on that.

I personally would use new carbon after treatment. I also decided to keep my skimmer running with no cup collection just for aeration.

This brings up another point. I also wonder if some of the negative reviews are from people who always use UV and then once treatment starts, they turn off UV and things get worse not because of the treatment but because maybe their UV was suppressing more than they think.
 
Interesting. I am running uv 24/7 and carbon without po4 remover. So definitely gonna take them off.

Also, they suggest dosing rally pro for 3 days. Are you dosing for more then 3 days?
 
Interesting. I am running uv 24/7 and carbon without po4 remover. So definitely gonna take them off.

Also, they suggest dosing rally pro for 3 days. Are you dosing for more then 3 days?
I still saw some white patches on my purple tang and sailfin after 3 days, so I continued to dose. My tank water volume is 187 gallons so I dosed 12 oz of rally pro per dose. I ended up using the whole jug. 6 days of full dose and 7 oz on day 7.
 
The way I see it is ruby reef has no proof it works besides Anecdotal evidence but if a person doesn’t know what else to do, it doesn’t seem to hurt either, at least not from what we notice.

So it’s a crap shoot, try it if you want and you don’t mind risking failure.
 
I dont know of it treating ich and I tell everyone it does not. Have you used this long term as I have?.
If I recall, you never heard of it until I brought up a year or so ago. The company will tell you what you want to hear. Seeing it work and has worked for others is My testimony.
Ive used this with a Mixed reef more than once and no negative results.
This has been widely reported about Ruby Rally Pro - and I don't remember saying it was good for Ich - rather the product used for Ich is Kick-ich. I merely asked the company to verify what multiple people have reported, that there is a trivial amount of formaldehyde in the product.

As far was companies saying what you want them to hear - I didn't ask them what I wanted to hear - I just asked for the list of ingredients. Lots of people have used Prime to 'detoxify ammonia' also - yet many people say it does not. Many people used vibrant thinking it was bacteria - yet others say it is not.

The comments I've read had suggested that Ruby Rally Pro 'changed their formulation' some time ago and lowered the formaldehyde - so I asked the question as to how much formaldehyde is in the current product - thats it - no argument, and no discussion. It would make sense to me that, if they had enough formaldehyde to be at a high enough concentration to kill parasites, I would think it would need to be labeled (note I'm not talking about dips, I'm talking about adding it to display tanks - which was the topic of the thread.
 
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I wanted to update my observations since I’ve just finished using rally pro and kick ich. The following is what I just posted on my build thread.
So update.
Does rally pro work? My fish look better. Great actually. That’s not proof obviously but it is what I observe.

Does kick ich work? The jury is still out on that one. The fish currently look great. I do not see ich on any of them. Could that be part of the ich lifecycle and in a couple of weeks I see ich again? I don’t know. The instructions say to dose for two weeks after the last ich is seen. Last ich seen was roughly the 20th maybe.

I finished the instructed dosing last Saturday on the 22nd. On the following day, (23rd). I did a large water change and ran UV, carbon, gfo and skimmer for 24 hrs and on Monday the 24th I dosed again to start round 2 in order to dose for 2 weeks after last seen ich. Tonight I tested the water….

Good golly…. After 2 weeks roughly of medication in the tank and lack of reactors and skimmer and such, my numbers were out of whack.
My salinity dropped from 1.025 to 1.024. Maybe that’s due to all the medication I’ve dosed. Maybe not. My phosphates are lots higher and nitrates too. Also my rock steady alkalinity went from 8.5 to 10.4. I calibrated my kalk doser and it’s ok, so I’m assuming that the corals are stressed and just not using what they have been.

My corals are decent but a few look stressed. 1 out of 3 hammers is shrunk up. One acro frag bleached out and a few acros have lost their colors to mostly a shade of green. And the polyps on them are less.

Is the above due to high nutrient and high alk? Maybe it’s due to the medication? I don’t know. But tonight I’ve decided to return everything back to normal and try to focus on my water quality and go from there.
 
Thanks so much for sharing your experience. Acro can be bleached due to alk burn.
Yes, they can. I’m just not sure what caused them to stress out and not take up the alk that they have been for so long.
 
I’ll go ahead and go on record and say this is not reef safe and does 100% affect your biome. I have a ICP before and after.. if you’re a jerk like me, I don’t recommend using it. It might be OK for softies and LPS but torches and SPS are not happy.. @vetteguy53081
 

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