My BTA looks deflated and isn’t grabbing food with its “fingers” is it just stressed because my two baby clowns won’t stop squabbling or is there a more severe problem going on?
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Temp 24.5 C Alkalinity 1.96 meqL Salinity 1.025 Ph 8.3 Ammonia 0.00 ppm thats all i testWhat are your params?
How is lighting or flow in the area?
How long has the nem been like that?
Mine will occasionally deflate but always goes back to normal in a few hours.
Ok will do its about to be night time here so if in the morning it is still looking strange i will updateI would just keep an eye on it for now.
While it does not look bad, from what you described, BTA are intolerant of swings in water chemistry and best in a well established tanks where numbers are stable. Too much light and they hide and even shrink, Too much flow and they move to a low flow area and May shrink. Too little light and flow and they climb towards light and flow respectively and often end up in the powerhead.My BTA looks deflated and isn’t grabbing food with its “fingers” is it just stressed because my two baby clowns won’t stop squabbling or is there a more severe problem going on?
Oh ok cool, i dont have a powerhead so that isnt a possibility i just use the flow from my hang on filter ill try to direct the light a bit away from it it might be in the light a bit too much it seems to be trying to stay close to the sand and maybe away from the light? I also have an infestation of red cyanobacteria would that have any affect? I got it two days ago and it ate that day so maybe not hungry?While it does not look bad, from what you described, BTA are intolerant of swings in water chemistry and best in a well established tanks where numbers are stable. Too much light and they hide and even shrink, Too much flow and they move to a low flow area and May shrink. Too little light and flow and they climb towards light and flow respectively and often end up in the powerhead.
Moderate light and flow are sufficient and feed them 2x weekly with mysis shrimp or chopped krill
You likely have a flow issue in general which would hold back the cyano a little and provide needed movement for the anemone. Cyano generally suggest elevated nitrates and phosphates and yes would have some impact on anemone. If hang on filter is your primary filter, you will need to add flow and even a hang on skimmer such as IceCap K1-50 or K1-100. Can you post a pic of your tank under white lighting ?Oh ok cool, i dont have a powerhead so that isnt a possibility i just use the flow from my hang on filter ill try to direct the light a bit away from it it might be in the light a bit too much it seems to be trying to stay close to the sand and maybe away from the light? I also have an infestation of red cyanobacteria would that have any affect? I got it two days ago and it ate that day so maybe not hungry?
I have a 17gal and anything else would be too powerfulIs the only source of flow the HOB? If so, that really won’t be sufficient for most corals/nems.
The HoB filter is not enough. What lights are you using? What are your parameters? Need nitrate, phosphate and alkalinity. How old is the tank? As a new reefer anything under 6 months old and you have little chance of being successful.I have a 17gal and anything else would be too powerful
I have a hang on skimmer, i will post a photo one second, i feel like i may have fed too much and i am buying three more turbo snails tomorrow that should help. I got live ocean rock so i guess it might not have been fully cured although i am not sure what that means. I don't use tap water as tap water here is dangerous even to drink and i use bottled water. I dont have a very good light and i cant get a better one because i am on a budget so the amount of white light cannot be changed, i have Seachem new tank stabilisation system is that considered liquid bacteria? All those other things seem complicated but i am going to my LFS for the snails anyways tomorrow afternoon so ill ask. I have a very limited selection of inverts here but i know i can get nassarius snails as i have 5 already and turbo snails but i will also have to ask about cerith, astrea and margarita snails and i also know my lfs sells blue leg hermits actualy they might be electic blues as they are quite large? I had ordered one but it arrived a few hours ago dead on my doorstep.You likely have a flow issue in general which would hold back the cyano a little and provide needed movement for the anemone. Cyano generally suggest elevated nitrates and phosphates and yes would have some impact on anemone. If hang on filter is your primary filter, you will need to add flow and even a hang on skimmer such as IceCap K1-50 or K1-100. Can you post a pic of your tank under white lighting ?
Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development
I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.
After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.
I am using an Aquamax Reef Led Q2 TI have a small wavemaker that I stuck in a 9g aio. May I ask what light you are using? If I recall correctly you weren't planning on keeping corals so am wondering what the specs of the light are.. if you don't mind
The owner of my LFS that i went to said that i could get it after a week as he was there when i bought all the equipment except the lightJust read back in your posts and see your tank isn't even a month old. My best advice is to return the nem and take the time to research what is needed to keep one.