Is this cyno? How do I get rid?

leotigris

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Hello Reefers,

I’ve got this red carpet like thing taking over my tanks (see pics).

It started off brown so I got a Mexican Turbo Snail which seemed to be doing a good job. Now it’s turned to a red carpet and some parts have really long green grass type things growing.

Not sure what it is, thought I saw some bubbles to started dosing Microbacter7, not sure it will help.

I don’t have very good test kits so not measured phosphates etc.


B9F450FE-ADEE-45B4-8129-EAA202EEDD90.jpeg
5636B6DB-1540-44E2-8139-0BED1DE8F48F.jpeg
 

Subsea

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That does not look like cyno. Neither is it a carpet. It looks like many tubular strands.

Have you tried manual removing it? Do holdfast break off? Are holdfast slippery are they calcareous? Where did the rock come from? How long set up?

Help us help you and give more details. Do you have a tank thread?

 
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leotigris

leotigris

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I have a build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-fluval-123-marine.836129/#post-9040273

The tank is 9 months old, it comes off very easily when I scrub it, slimy and slippery but grows back within a week.

The rocks have been in from the start but I have added some blasto corals, which I didn’t dip.

I’m feeding frozen brine shrimp and mysis shrimp every other day. Occasionally flakes
 
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Subsea

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Using slimy & slippery, read characteristics of nuisance algae link from reef cleaners. Send pictures to John Mahoney at reef cleaners blog. See if he can help.

From what you said, check this out:

Lyngbya​

lyngbya 300x225


Often a reddish brown, Lyngbya spp. are a type of cyanobacteria. Even though it looks just like hair algae and is filamentous rather than slimy. It dislodges easily from the rock, has no discernible root or mat structure and grows fast. Lyngbya species seem to grow very fast in warmer tanks, and spread quickly once attached to a powerhead, suggesting they can replicate by fragmentation easily. Nevertheless aggressive manual removal over time can be effective.

Manual Removal: Toothbrush off the rock and glass capture floating mass in nets.


For a different reference guide, I suggest GulfCoast EcoSystems, now called live plants.

 

Subsea

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I have a build thread https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/new-fluval-123-marine.836129/#post-9040273

The tank is 9 months old, it comes off very easily when I scrub it, slimy and slippery but grows back within a week.

The rocks have been in from the start but I have added some blasto corals, which I didn’t dip.

I’m feeding frozen brine shrimp and mysis shrimp every other day. Occasionally flakes

one big advantage of a tank thread is it becomes a journal And a base line. Go to your local fish store and ask them to measure nitrogen & phosphorus to establish a base line.

Oxygen & temperature drive most biochemistry in our reef environments. Gas exchange is critical in a reef tank. I use robust circulation, particular at the surface. Surface film inhibits gas exchange.

let’s address adding microbator7. It can’t hurt, follow directions. Your adding microbator7 is similar to me adding diver collected life rock, except microbator7 is not a source of much biodiversity of micro fauna & fana, but it does provide bactetia & enzymes required in the process. I would also recommend using ChemiClean as a follow up to microbator7.

Combined with manual removal, use a toothbrush dipped in peroxide to sanitize rock of holdfast. If possible, remove rock from tank.
 
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leotigris

leotigris

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Thanks Subsea

When using peroxide, Do I need to rinse the rocks with RO before putting them back in the tank? The lowest concentration I can find is 3% is this too high?

I’ve not used peroxide before and don’t want it to harm the fish or coral.
 

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Thanks Subsea

When using peroxide, Do I need to rinse the rocks with RO before putting them back in the tank? The lowest concentration I can find is 3% is this too high?

I’ve not used peroxide before and don’t want it to harm the fish or coral.

Many dose peroxide to get pristine conditions. European reefers use oxidator for sensitive shrimp cultures.

I have dosed 10ml of 3% h202 per 10G of tank water for 7 days. Be very careful with this procedure. I have been Reefing for > 50 yrs and am an expert in that I have made many mistakes and have learned from them. The rate of oxidation chemistry when using peroxide is dependent on the BOD (biological oxygen demand). Every tank is different. I decimated amphipod populations in 120G tank at day 4 of 7 day treatment period for Cynobacteria.

When required, I use a dip of 10% h202 for 10 minutes. Yes I submerge coral for 10 minutes in 10% solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide. In the past, I have used a 1% solution of 30% concentrate peroxide.

PS. I DON’t bother with ro rinse. I do rinse the junk off with tap water. My tap water comes from Aquifier at 1000’ with no pretreatment.
image.jpg
 
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Going off the ledge: Would you be interested in a drop off aquarium?

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