Is this Ick or Stress Spots

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Check this:

Hybrid TTM to treat all parasites!

Important: Tank Transfer Method is most effective when water temperature and salinity are kept within this range... Temp: 24C/76F - 28C/82F Salinity: 27ppt / 1.020 SG - 35ppt / 1.026 SG Tank Transfer Method is an effective (non-chemical) treatment for Marine Ich. However, it's weakness has...

humble.fish

Now that was an awesome link!! Great info!! Thank you!!

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Yup ..... microbe lift herbtana = garbage. Even the name sounds like BS, and that’s before you read the marketing drivel. Had to talk a reefing buddy out of using it a few years ago.

Had nothing open at the time. Had to go with it unfortunately. It was that or nothing until Thursday

 

[ca1ore]

Had nothing open at the time. Had to go with it unfortunately. It was that or nothing until Thursday

Understood. Unfortunately there’s also a lot of snake oil in the hobby, some of it perpetuated by LFS. I think you’ve got to trust your own gut. I’m fortunate having been in this hobby for many decades and have developed a very good BS detector. With all the misinformation on social media these days, it must be really hard for newcomers to separate the ‘wheat from the chaff’ as the old saying goes.

A venerable aquarist long tenured in this hobby used to say to ask to see somebody’s tank before taking their advice. I always followed that wisdom, including the LFS.

 

[Hincapiej4]

It's not ich, it's velvet. You know how I know?

It's a lot of cysts, and they are small. Ich are bigger and you can count them. Like i said, it doesn't matter. Treatment is the same. To sit here trying to argue which it is is dumb and a waste of time. Hurry up and treat them, or you'll definitely find out.

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

It's not ich, it's velvet. You know how I know?

It's a lot of cysts, and they are small. Ich are bigger and you can count them. Like i said, it doesn't matter. Treatment is the same. To sit here trying to argue which it is is dumb and a waste of time. Hurry up and treat them, or you'll definitely find out.

Thank you!!

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Understood. Unfortunately there’s also a lot of snake oil in the hobby, some of it perpetuated by LFS. I think you’ve got to trust your own gut. I’m fortunate having been in this hobby for many decades and have developed a very good BS detector. With all the misinformation on social media these days, it must be really hard for newcomers to separate the ‘wheat from the chaff’ as the old saying goes.

A venerable aquarist long tenured in this hobby used to say to ask to see somebody’s tank before taking their advice. I always followed that wisdom, including the LFS.

Understood! It was a def a judgement call for sure not having anyone open but Petco. So it was choose Petco or do nothing at all for two days which in fact would have made matters worse. So I chose Petco for treatment. I’ll hit up my LFS who specializes in corals and treatment. Guys very knowledgeable. The unfortunate part is the last fish I dropped in had issues!! The hobby’s been very pleasurable so far
I’ll take advice like this all day from folks.

 

[Hincapiej4]

There is an episode from BRS that deals with QT. Look it up on youtube. It's no bs.

 

[olonmv]

My LFS suggested cupramine by seachem and a salifet copper test kit. I started in a plastic tote that holds 10+ gallons. Have a dedicated heater (copper stays on everything) and a cheap pump for circulation (wrap water inlet with filter floss for poor swimmers) started my levels at .15 ish and slowly raise to no more than .5 over the course of a couple of days. Maintain therapeutic levels for 14-21 days straight. If they drop below .2, the process starts over. I’m keeping my tank fallow for 76 days. Hopefully this takes care of my unexplained deaths. Best of luck!

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

My LFS suggested cupramine by seachem and a salifet copper test kit. I started in a plastic tote that holds 10+ gallons. Have a dedicated heater (copper stays on everything) and a cheap pump for circulation (wrap water inlet with filter floss for poor swimmers) started my levels at .15 ish and slowly raise to no more than .5 over the course of a couple of days. Maintain therapeutic levels for 14-21 days straight. If they drop below .2, the process starts over. I’m keeping my tank fallow for 76 days. Hopefully this takes care of my unexplained deaths. Best of luck!

Definitely appreciate the response. Looks like a great plan. Would love to hear the outcome and process as you move along.
Went to my LFS and confirmed its Ich. As i figured it's from the stress of the move (purchase). Now not to say that Ich is gone in the tank, surely not right but from what I've researched on these threads and other sites, Ich resides in most tanks. That said, in order to get rid of it your plan is correct for sure. My fish now has no Ich on him, stress has gone down. He's been eating, swimming around and overall looks very happy.

I'm no pro at this by far but the recent responses I've received from everyone have been extremely helpful in making an educated assessment. Learning this hobby is and has been very exciting and mostly fun. Reading, planning, testing, testing, and testing yet again make the end result well worth the effort.

THANK YOU!!

 

[Hincapiej4]

You said the fish has no ich on him. Oh you best believe it has ich on him. Lol

That is..if it's even ich. The employees at lfs are still normal people and they don't everything. While they can be an amazing source of knowledge they can also not be.

I will say..have these fish been in treatment the last few days or did you just let whatever do its thing?

I'm telling you right now, if you choose the ich management route, be careful and keep in mind what's going to happen.

 

[SaltISlife]

Herbtana wont do anything. Stop using it.. in fact i used something similar from another company and it ended up killing all my sps corals even though it claimed to be safe.

Only way to stop ich.. is going fallow in the tank... Hyposanility. Or copper.

I prefer hypo myself at 1.007 salinity.

Suggest you read up on ich.. The spots go away after 24-72 hours and then they come back its the larasite falling off the fish.. going to the sand bed and anything else it can land on.. then takes an average ofr 7-14 days to hatch.. and each cyst can make up to 200 more prasites.

Powder brown and blue and other tangs of the same species are ich magnets.. i stay away from those fish..


Ive done hypo and copper.. wasted a year of my life doing that.. did hypo for 30 days..let the tank sit for 76 days... ich came back slowely. Did copper for 30 days.. let the tank go fallow for 76 days.. ich came back.

I decided to get rid of my powder brown tang and instead manage ich. I have 5 other tangs in my tank. Only the powder brown ended up like yours looks like. The rest rarely get a spot maybe 1 or two occasionally but thats it.

I found eliminating the main carrier of the parasite vastly lowers the parasite load in the tank. If you have a fish that gets covered like this all the time.. then all its doing is producing thousands of more parasites increasing ( viral load) as i like to call it. Increasing the odds of other fish to get ich all over them.

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Herbtana wont do anything. Stop using it.. in fact i used something similar from another company and it ended up killing all my sps corals even though it claimed to be safe.

Only way to stop ich.. is going fallow in the tank... Hyposanility. Or copper.

I prefer hypo myself at 1.007 salinity.

Suggest you read up on ich.. The spots go away after 24-72 hours and then they come back its the larasite falling off the fish.. going to the sand bed and anything else it can land on.. then takes an average ofr 7-14 days to hatch.. and each cyst can make up to 200 more prasites.

Powder brown and blue and other tangs of the same species are ich magnets.. i stay away from those fish..


Ive done hypo and copper.. wasted a year of my life doing that.. did hypo for 30 days..let the tank sit for 76 days... ich came back slowely. Did copper for 30 days.. let the tank go fallow for 76 days.. ich came back.

I decided to get rid of my powder brown tang and instead manage ich. I have 5 other tangs in my tank. Only the powder brown ended up like yours looks like. The rest rarely get a spot maybe 1 or two occasionally but thats it.

I found eliminating the main carrier of the parasite vastly lowers the parasite load in the tank. If you have a fish that gets covered like this all the time.. then all its doing is producing thousands of more parasites increasing ( viral load) as i like to call it. Increasing the odds of other fish to get ich all over them.

Thank you!! I was afraid of this with Tangs in general. This ones a Naso. I know the pic is a poor pic I presented. Right now i have no coral at all. Just live rock so that said its less of a monetary worry with the exception of the livestock fish in the tank
I've read so much on Ich in the past week. In general as you stated the cycle of Ich is exactly as research stated. My salinity is at 1.027 heat is at 80 degrees. Since he's new I'm not sure what I'll do with him. Stopped using the Herbtana yesterday. My LFS guys have years of experience and trust their opinion. Adding Vit C to diet each day. Tang is eating, playing, etc. No lethargy, scratching, etc. Going to monitor the situation, then decide next course of action.

Thank you very much for the detailed response SaltIsLife!! Appreciate it for sure.

 

[SaltISlife]

Thats not a Naso tang. Its a powder brown tang. Whoever sold you that as a naso tang lied to you.

This is a Naso tang. This is my blond naso.( tang in center)

 

[ca1ore]

I found eliminating the main carrier of the parasite vastly lowers the parasite load in the tank. If you have a fish that gets covered like this all the time.. then all its doing is producing thousands of more parasites increasing ( viral load) as i like to call it. Increasing the odds of other fish to get ich all over them.

This is a good observation by the way. An important part of ich management (if that is the approach one chooses) is maintaining as low parasite numbers as possible in the tank. Partly this can be accomplished with tools like UV or DE filters, but it is also important to not have a fish that is a major source for new protomonts.

If you must have one, as I do with achilles, either you have to have a very large system or a way to 'isolate' said canary.

 

[SaltISlife]

This is a good observation by the way. An important part of ich management (if that is the approach one chooses) is maintaining as low parasite numbers as possible in the tank. Partly this can be accomplished with tools like UV or DE filters, but it is also important to not have a fish that is a major source for new protomonts.

Exactly. Thats why i can live with 5 tangs in my tank and not see an outbreak . I got a 55w uv i use 25 micron filter pads (ich is supposedly 25 to 200 microns) and i got rid of my powder brown. Ich virtually went away after this

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Thats not a Naso tang. Its a powder brown tang. Whoever sold you that as a naso tang lied to you.

This is a Naso tang. This is my blond naso.( tang in center)

You are right SaltIsLife. Didnt get it at my usual LFS, found him at another. I will follow up. Appreciate you correcting

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

This is a good observation by the way. An important part of ich management (if that is the approach one chooses) is maintaining as low parasite numbers as possible in the tank. Partly this can be accomplished with tools like UV or DE filters, but it is also important to not have a fish that is a major source for new protomonts.

Agree, i may have to isolate or remove the carrier

 

[SaltISlife]

What fish are in that tank ? Since you have no corals. Id just go hyposalinity. Drain 60% if the tank. And fill it up with fresh water. Thatll drop your salinity to 1.010. Thats where hypo generally should ve.

In 3-7 daya youll see ich go away and never come back. Just keep it like that for 5-6 weeks. But no garuntees it doesnt come back.

Another thing you can do since you have no corals is keep the tank at 1.017 or 1.016 perm. The fish will be fine.

Unless you have gobies or wrasses or angels or anthias.. in which they cant handle hypo very well at 1.010

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

What fish are in that tank ? Since you have no corals. Id just go hyposalinity. Drain 60% if the tank. And fill it up with fresh water. Thatll drop your salinity to 1.010. Thats where hypo generally should ve.

In 3-7 daya youll see ich go away and never come back. Just keep it like that for 5-6 weeks. But no garuntees it doesnt come back.

Another thing you can do since you have no corals is keep the tank at 1.017 or 1.016 perm. The fish will be fine.

Unless you have gobies or wrasses or angels or anthias.. in which they cant handle hypo very well at 1.010

So now that we've established I have a Powder Brown Tang (LOL), a Angel Coral Beauty, 2 clowns, 1 3 stripe damsel, 3 yellow tail blue damsels. 8 total. Good thing this happened before i added my Dragonetts. Been building up my pods in the fuge for the past month.

 

[NeptuneSpear2011]

Exactly. Thats why i can live with 5 tangs in my tank and not see an outbreak . I got a 55w uv i use 25 micron filter pads (ich is supposedly 25 to 200 microns) and i got rid of my powder brown. Ich virtually went away after this

I use two of these filter socks. One at the overflow then another sock down below into the sump.