78 is the golden temp. The more stable the better. As with all things reef haha
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
After seeing your frogspawn, I fear my "torch" may be a frogspawn... what's the difference?78 is the golden temp. The more stable the better. As with all things reef haha
N and P? ;BucktoothChecking in here buddy.
Hows your N and P looking for you?
Looking like you may have some cyano on sand as well as some rocks there. I'm not sure about torches but can tell you certain shrooms will not tolerate that. Ricordea seem to be a bit more forgiving than others. Id def try getting the cyano issue sorted though.
Any suggestions on how to get rid of the cyano?Checking in here buddy.
Hows your N and P looking for you?
Looking like you may have some cyano on sand as well as some rocks there. I'm not sure about torches but can tell you certain shrooms will not tolerate that. Ricordea seem to be a bit more forgiving than others. Id def try getting the cyano issue sorted though.
I don’t know what N and P means, lol. ;NailbitingChecking in here buddy.
Hows your N and P looking for you?
Looking like you may have some cyano on sand as well as some rocks there. I'm not sure about torches but can tell you certain shrooms will not tolerate that. Ricordea seem to be a bit more forgiving than others. Id def try getting the cyano issue sorted though.
I’ll test nitrate real quick. I don’t have a phosphate test kit yet... any good suggestions?Nitrate and phosphate.
If it persists chemiclean works very well. Year those levels first.
Also leave the molt in and let it breakdown. Good source of calcium
Nitrate is close to or at 0ppm.Nitrate and phosphate.
If it persists chemiclean works very well. Year those levels first.
Also leave the molt in and let it breakdown. Good source of calcium
I will try siphoning it all out! If not, I’ll look into chemiclean. (Is it safe for shrimp/corals?)Id siphon up everything you can see with water change.
I used chemiclean and works wonders.
How can I increase my nitrates? Test is showing 0ppm or a little above that. Or is 0ppm good?hi,prob not much help,run high nitrates .40+ try to keep phos in control.
i use seachem phosguard ,but not monitored ,because i know always present. but all tanks are 300 gallon +
i do see some hair algae ,try to remove,as phos will bind in.
@F i s h y thoughts?
Is the API one ok? https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...wi68cGfsO_wAhVJnp4KHdCTCOUQwg96BAgBEB4&adurl=It's going to read lower due to the algae growth. I think phosphate is one of the more useful tests you can do
I would rather not use chemicals, but if I need to I will. ;ChickenYup sorry about that. Nitrates and Phosphates. Your going to want some detectable levels and a way to test for phosphates. If you let them bottom out you could end up with worse problems like dinos.
On new system started with dry rock its reccomended 2-5 ppm Nitrates. Phosphates .03-05.
I've seen @danieyella posting about dosing probidio to beat cyano. Maybe she can chime in and help with that method.
Most common answers you will get is better flow in tank around areas its growing. Your case is full on outbreak.
Check your nutrients and maintain them.
Id siphon up everything you can see with water change.
I used chemiclean and works wonders.
I'm not sure id use it in your situation unless you have somewhere to put livestock for at least 24 hours
You need alot of aeration for it to be effective. Probably a few airstones in tank honestly that may stress your fish out.
Maybe @fishguy242 and rest of crew can help as well.
Genius! So... do I need another black box light? Or do I just need to hang this one, so the spectrum reaches all the way to the corners?The number one thing I notice about the cyano in your tank is its location. Very little directly under the light but as you move farther away where only the blue spectrum hits you see more. I have noticed this in a lot of tanks that are taller with lower light performance. You can almost draw your light coverage in on your full tank shot. I say this is probably a combo of nutrients and spectrum... tough to fix honestly without additional supplemental lighting like a couple of T5s one front one back...