JCOLE's ACRO Dominant Build

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JCOLE

JCOLE

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I am going a different route with flow. The locline was way to intrusive and took away from the tank. I will just use locline in the back.
I was thinking of putting two large pumps at the bottom corners in the back to push flow and detritus down the length of the tank. If needed, and against my better judgement, I will out a gyre on the front top middle if needed.

Has anyone used the Tunze Stream 3+ pumps before on a long tank? They look like they can do the work and rated to push over 9'.

 
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I am currently looking at three options. I know things on the front glass will be obstructive, but I am looking at a lot of limited flow upfront.

Flow option #1 - Return Loclines at the top of the back left and right corners(yellow) and MP60s(red) in the bottom back left corner and bottom front right corner. This should create a circular flow, which I think would work. I'm just concerned about the MP60 on the front because I don't know if it will be easy to hit and knock off.

FLOW #1.jpg


Flow option #2 - I think this will be the best for flow, but again, I am still concerned about the front MP60. Loclines returns(yellow) in both top back corners, MP60s(red) on the back and front bottom corners, and GYREs(green) on the back left middle and front right middle.

FLOW #2.jpg


Flow option #3 - This will be the cheapest option as I already have the gyres and I will not have to worry about hitting the MP60. However, this might not be enough flow around the entire tank, maybe? Loclines return in the back top corners(yellow), and Gyres in the back left and front right middle.

FLOW #3.jpg


What do you think about this?
 

BCSreef

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Without the rock work in place, it may be hard to predict flow patterns. You may want to wait until rocks are added before deciding on final spots for the Gyres and/or MP60s

I think you are having the returns coming from the top braces. So those will be hard to move. I think your proposed locations are good.

The nice thing about the Gyres and MP60s is that you can move them around. I think I moved my Gyres 5-6 times before I found a sweet spot. Since you already have the Gyres, try them out. Which Gyres do you have?
 

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I am going a different route with flow. The locline was way to intrusive and took away from the tank. I will just use locline in the back.
I was thinking of putting two large pumps at the bottom corners in the back to push flow and detritus down the length of the tank. If needed, and against my better judgement, I will out a gyre on the front top middle if needed.

Has anyone used the Tunze Stream 3+ pumps before on a long tank? They look like they can do the work and rated to push over 9'.

No experience with a 9' tank, but the a single Tunze Stream 3 with their flow cannon adapter was blowing up a sand storm in my 48x36 tank.
 
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Without the rock work in place, it may be hard to predict flow patterns. You may want to wait until rocks are added before deciding on final spots for the Gyres and/or MP60s

I think you are having the returns coming from the top braces. So those will be hard to move. I think your proposed locations are good.

The nice thing about the Gyres and MP60s is that you can move them around. I think I moved my Gyres 5-6 times before I found a sweet spot. Since you already have the Gyres, try them out. Which Gyres do you have?

I have the Jebao 150's. They do move a good bit of water. I am curious to see what happens when I stagger the sides on the front and back. The way it is now creates movement at the front but detritus is already collecting in the front 3' of the tank.
 
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No experience with a 9' tank, but the a single Tunze Stream 3 with their flow cannon adapter was blowing up a sand storm in my 48x36 tank.

What speed did you run it at? I am really interested in these as well because I plan on going bare bottom and the 5 year warranty is hard to beat.
 
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xiaoxiy

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What speed did you run it at? I am really interested in these as well because I plan on going bare bottom and the 5 year warranty is hard to beat.
I had it on 100% with flow rectifier for ***** and giggles.

Here’s their flow velocity video with the different attachments on a 5 foot tank.
 
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@JCOLE I must have missed several pages of updates. This new big tank you have is looking like a sweet build. Let me know how you end up liking those Jebao 150s.

Thank you. I like the Jebao 150s. For the price they are a really good gyre. Lasted 1.5 years now with multiple cleanings.
 
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I ended up going with two MP60s. I will either put both at the bottom front corners to push along the bottoms or one in the back corner and front opposite corners. I will also more than likely put a gyre in the top front and back middles if needed.
 
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Both return pumps are up and running and plumbing is finally 100% complete. I had to redo both of my return lines coming into the tank because they were in the way of the MP60s. Cut and moved return lines and mounted MP60s. I now have FLOW!!! Flow is blasting to the front of the tank now. I will end up putting one or two Gyre's on the front up top to help with flow returning to the back.

Little man helping me with the T-slot canopy today. Hopefully if all goes to plan then canopy will be built and halides will be up and running by tonight.

20221016_102005.jpg
 
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Cut, screw, cut, screw, drop screw in tank, cuss, cut, screw, cut, screw...... that is how my whole day went yesterday. It is safe to say I underestimated the amount of work involved with the canopy.

I finished the framing and put two halides up until I called it quits around 11:30 last night.

20221016_220958.jpg
 

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This is looking incredible. Those Bali Suns look to spread really well too.

I ran the tunze on the back wall of my 6' 180 and it really moved some water. I don't recall at what percent but with just the straight flow it really pushes some water and quiet too. the 90 elbow fitting really kill all it's power.

Have you considered these Abyzz Flow Cannons? Looks like they move a ton of water and very quiet too. Possibly hard to hide in the tank though.

Amazing work so far. I keep a few boa constrictors in my garage and their tanks are very close to my water heater. You've got me thinking now, great find! Crazy how quickly co2 rose.
 
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This is looking incredible. Those Bali Suns look to spread really well too.

I ran the tunze on the back wall of my 6' 180 and it really moved some water. I don't recall at what percent but with just the straight flow it really pushes some water and quiet too. the 90 elbow fitting really kill all it's power.

Have you considered these Abyzz Flow Cannons? Looks like they move a ton of water and very quiet too. Possibly hard to hide in the tank though.

Amazing work so far. I keep a few boa constrictors in my garage and their tanks are very close to my water heater. You've got me thinking now, great find! Crazy how quickly co2 rose.

Thank you! I cannot wait to get all the pendants up.

I ended up going with (2) MP60's mounted in the lower back corners. At full speed, they do a good job of moving water to the front of the tank. I am going to put one or two Gyre's on the top front glass and that should do a really good job to help circulate water throughout the tank. This is an empty tank and things can change once rocks go in though.

I did look at the Abyzz but the cost would have turned my tank into a watery coffin because that is where my wife would have put me. :beaming-face-with-smiling-eyes: Besides the cost, I really don't like the way they look. They look like they should be on back of an exhaust pipe and not in an aquarium.

I would never have thought of the CO2 issue if it weren't for my pH dropping significantly while taking showers, etc. I am glad it happened, though, so I could fix this. Now, if I ever have to run the exhaust fan, then I just open my garage at least 1', and that allows the pressure to equalize and doesn't pull from the heater exhaust vent.
 
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All those corner connectors use a lot of screws! I'm glad to see that you got it finished so quickly. Look forward to you getting it skinned.

Yes they do! Is there a trick to install a retaining nut in the T-slot channel without taking it all apart? Missing a nut and having to dissesemble the whole rack to slide one in is time consuming. I could have had it done by now if that was an option.
 

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Depends on the type of nut but they should be designed to drop in parallel to the "t" slot and turn into lock position when you tighten them. They'll have a rounded edge to turn clockwise if that's the case. Barely enough thread so barely hang the nut on the screw.
 
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Depends on the type of nut but they should be designed to drop in parallel to the "t" slot and turn into lock position when you tighten them. They'll have a rounded edge to turn clockwise if that's the case. Barely enough thread so barely hang the nut on the screw.

Perfect! Thank you. That makes sense. The ones I have been using are slide in nuts. I ordered an assortment of other nuts, etc, and noticed some smaller ones that would fit in the slots. I didn't use those because they seemed smaller and not as strong. It would make sense if they were designed to be used and turned.
 
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