Just got my 300g upgrade tank and want to put my SPS in there sooner then later!?

[Hellothere12]

I've been in the hobby for over 7 years now, so this isn't my first tank but I'm looking for some help on when I could put my acro's in my new setup.
The tank has been up for about a week, I used live sand and about 80% of my live rock from my old setup (150g it was up for alittle over a year) and maybe added a extra 60lb of dry rock I had sitting in a tub for about a month, With my fish.
I put my 5 chromes and my foxface in the new tank the other day all seem fine. So I then added 2 hammers aswell the other day so far they seem happy too. I see some diatom on the sand and rock work but the small CUC I have in there is taking care of it. I don't want to rush things (but I'm) but I also don't want to have a huge electric bill from running the new tank/ tub with my fish in it and frag tank will my acro's. Can anyone give me the green light? Or should I just suck it up and wait?

 

[MnFish1]

I've been in the hobby for over 7 years now, so this isn't my first tank but I'm looking for some help on when I could put my acro's in my new setup.
The tank has been up for about a week, I used live sand and about 80% of my live rock from my old setup (150g it was up for alittle over a year) and maybe added a extra 60lb of dry rock I had sitting in a tub for about a month, With my fish.
I put my 5 chromes and my foxface in the new tank the other day all seem fine. So I then added 2 hammers aswell the other day so far they seem happy too. I see some diatom on the sand and rock work but the small CUC I have in there is taking care of it. I don't want to rush things (but I'm) but I also don't want to have a huge electric bill from running the new tank/ tub with my fish in it and frag tank will my acro's. Can anyone give me the green light? Or should I just suck it up and wait?

If the water parameters match - IMHO you can put them in immediately - have done this multiple times - with no problem

 

[Hellothere12]

If the water parameters match - IMHO you can put them in immediately - have done this multiple times - with no problem

Okay thanks!

 

[MnFish1]

Okay thanks!

Just so its clear - the rock and fish and sand are in the new tank - its just the acro that need to be put back in? One other thing - make sure that the light is not a lot different in the new tank - i.e. I might do a 'coral acclimation mode' when you change over - especially if you used a lot of 'new' water (because the light will be brighter if there are less organics in the new tank), and depth, etc

 

[Hellothere12]

Just so its clear - the rock and fish and sand are in the new tank - its just the acro that need to be put back in

60% of my rock is old live rock in the tank and new sand. I don't have all the fish in the tank yet though. The acro's need to be put back in plus a bunch of other corals. More Hammers/ Goni's and blastos

 

[am3gross]

I would wait till the "ugly" stage is over before adding anything, plus it will give your tank a little extra time to re-establish its self with the new rock that you have added.

 

[Hellothere12]

I would wait till the "ugly" stage is over before adding anything, plus it will give your tank a little extra time to re-establish its self with the new rock that you have added.

I had the same thoughts but I already have some of it dripping now

 

[MnFish1]

I had the same thoughts but I already have some of it dripping now

More coral covering the area in your tank will help prevent the 'ugly stage' IMHO

 

[Hellothere12]

See I'm okay will the ugly stage really!(plus just put my orange shoulder tang in algae eating monster!) Plus all my corals are still on old live rock so I don't see diatom spreading to those rocks, also running AI Hydra's all at 40% max no whites right now so hopefully it all works out!

 

[Ancient Mariner]

I started a new tank with 50% old rock from my old tank/ 50% new dry rock and about 5-10 lbs old “live” sand and muck covered with new dry sand. I put in a variety of new sps frags and clams in the first 2-3 months plus a large pavona and chalice from the old tank. I lost so many SPS and all clams the first 6 months, even ones that are deemed “easy”. The pavona and chalice weren’t growing the first 6-8 months. Went through a moderate uglies stage. Fought through red slime. It took over 1 year before the tank started to thrive and corals started to grow. Thriving coral correlated to the end of the ugly phase and the start of vigorous coralline algae growth. Maybe wait until some coralline algae starts growing?

 

[MnFish1]

I started a new tank with 50% old rock from my old tank/ 50% new dry rock and about 5-10 lbs old “live” sand and muck covered with new dry sand. I put in a variety of new sps frags and clams in the first 2-3 months plus a large pavona and chalice from the old tank. I lost so many SPS and all clams the first 6 months, even ones that are deemed “easy”. The pavona and chalice weren’t growing the first 6-8 months. Went through a moderate uglies stage. Fought through red slime. It took over 1 year before the tank started to thrive and corals started to grow. Thriving coral correlated to the end of the ugly phase and the start of vigorous coralline algae growth. Maybe wait until some coralline algae starts growing?

If I was doing what you were doing - I would not have added '5-10 lbs old muck and sand', and then covered it with 'live stand'. There were likely sulfur, etc compounds released when the mud was disturbed. I don't believe the OP was going to do this.

 

[Hellothere12]

If I was doing what you were doing - I would not have added '5-10 lbs old muck and sand', and then covered it with 'live stand'. There were likely sulfur, etc compounds released when the mud was disturbed. I don't believe the OP was going to do this.

Agreed

 

[happyhourhero]

I would go ahead and buy some Neophos and get ready to dose a lot to keep your p04 up. I would try my best to hold it at .10 so you have some wiggle room. The mined dry rock these days soaks up phosphate like a sponge and this is why so many have dinos in new systems. It took over 500ml in my 25 gallon before I could get a steady reading and stop dosing.

 

[Ancient Mariner]

If I was doing what you were doing - I would not have added '5-10 lbs old muck and sand', and then covered it with 'live stand'. There were likely sulfur, etc compounds released when the mud was disturbed. I don't believe the OP was going to do this.

Yes, maybe that wasn’t a good move. I certainly am not suggesting that he do what I did as it certainly didn’t work out too well initially! My point is that he should wait to put in his acroporas in until the tank is biologically stable and mature. I wouldn’t assume that just because he has added 60% old live rock that the biological cycling occurs quickly.

 

[Hellothere12]

I would go ahead and buy some Neophos and get ready to dose a lot to keep your p04 up. I would try my best to hold it at .10 so you have some wiggle room. The mined dry rock these days soaks up phosphate like a sponge and this is why so many have dinos in new systems. It took over 500ml in my 25 gallon before I could get a steady reading and stop dosing.

So your saying to dose phosphates? That's what Dino's live off. I thought

 

[happyhourhero]

So your saying to dose phosphates? That's what Dino's live off. I thought

When you have 0 phosphates dinos take over. There would be far fewer dinos in dry rock tank threads if people dosed phosphates from the start.

 

[MnFish1]

Yes, maybe that wasn’t a good move. I certainly am not suggesting that he do what I did as it certainly didn’t work out too well initially! My point is that he should wait to put in his acroporas in until the tank is biologically stable and mature. I wouldn’t assume that just because he has added 60% old live rock that the biological cycling occurs quickly.

I disagree. He put in live sand (new) - and 80 percent of his old rock. There should be no 'cycle' here. And no reason not to put everything in. I'm assuming (?) that he is also using the same filtration methods as before. There is always a risk of doing something - so perhaps its not 'zero' - but, IMO, the longer he waits - the more disparate the water conditions in the acre tank will be as compared to the new tank.

I wasn't saying you were wrong - per se - just that I would not have added old sand to a new tank. (unless that sand is regularly vacuumed and mixed/siphoned).

 

[TheDragonsReef]

Theres a few reasons why corals die in new systems.

1. New systems are generally too clean. Most new tanks take a while before they start seeing acceptable levels of nutrients. Corals need nitrates and phosphates to thrive. I recommend to have between 5-20ppm nitrates and 0.03-0.10 phosphates. You can speed this up by dosing nitrates and phosphates or over feeding til you start seeing them.

2. The microbiome. New systems are a battlefield of bacteria and micro fauna all fighting it out to become the most dominant in this new ecosystem. From diatoms, dinos, algaes and more, even if not visible to the eye, are all there. Some of which can be harmful to corals and their immune systems. If you dont have a healthy biome you will not have success with corals. Normally time is the best solution here but if you want to help the process you can add live rock and dose bacteria such as dr tims eco balance, waste away, and refresh. They all supply beneficial bacteria that can further reproduce in the tank. If its a brand new tank you can also use dr tims one and only for nitrifying bacteria

3. Parameter swings. This is the most deadly part of adding coral to a new tank. Alkalinity, nitrates and phosphates all tend to swing pretty drastically in new tanks. If they are staying consistent for 3-4 weeks with little to no change, and the above issues have been addressed, then id say you can add some coral slowly and see how they do.

 

[MnFish1]

Theres a few reasons why corals die in new systems.

1. New systems are generally too clean. Most new tanks take a while before they start seeing acceptable levels of nutrients. Corals need nitrates and phosphates to thrive. I recommend to have between 5-20ppm nitrates and 0.03-0.10 phosphates. You can speed this up by dosing nitrates and phosphates or over feeding til you start seeing them.

2. The microbiome. New systems are a battlefield of bacteria and micro fauna all fighting it out to become the most dominant in this new ecosystem. From diatoms, dinos, algaes and more, even if not visible to the eye, are all there. Some of which can be harmful to corals and their immune systems. If you dont have a healthy biome you will not have success with corals. Normally time is the best solution here but if you want to help the process you can add live rock and dose bacteria such as dr tims eco balance, waste away, and refresh. They all supply beneficial bacteria that can further reproduce in the tank. If its a brand new tank you can also use dr tims one and only for nitrifying bacteria

3. Parameter swings. This is the most deadly part of adding coral to a new tank. Alkalinity, nitrates and phosphates all tend to swing pretty drastically in new tanks. If they are staying consistent for 3-4 weeks with little to no change, and the above issues have been addressed, then id say you can add some coral slowly and see how they do.

He is adding 80% of his old live rock? And wants to re-add his old corals back. Wouldn't you think thats an 'old system'?

 

[TheDragonsReef]

He is adding 80% of his old live rock? And wants to re-add his old corals back. Wouldn't you think thats an 'old system'?

Yes, i wasnt nessecarily replying directly about his system, but new tanks in general. Even though he is adding mostly live aged rock he is still adding some dry rock and it doesnt hurt to add some bacteria to speed up the process. But even with aged rock a new system is likely to have low nutrients as there wont be any decaying detritus, or much fish food and poop to elevate nutrients. So as long as hes seeing some nitrates and phosphates and parameters are staying stable then id say he can add some coral and see how they do.