Just so crazy with a Pico, Nano tank

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DebraLV

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I'd say there's more than enough to sustain a clown. She used bottle bac as well as live sand.

I agree with the testing 2x a Day tho. It's pointless now as the tank is cycled.
Thanks. I've been so OCD on testing this tank and new to the forum that I haven't explored all the interesting links, mainly the search bar for my answers.
 

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as a fairly new saltwater aquarium person myself, i will add in some things in easy terms.

i was in your shoes just less than a year ago. i had no idea about the nitrogen cycle, bacteria, or anythign else. in fact, i would say i am still learning. nothing that has been said so far, is incorrect. with that said, you can definately slow down a bit with the testing. even with api, as it has been said, is inaccurate, but will give you something to at least go off of. i started with an API kit, and i understand that the .25 will be there quite a bit, so the only time i really use API is if im in a hurry, and just want to make sure i dont have a huge spike going on. with that said, the only thing i really test for now is nitrate, and i dont really do that all that much anymore. at most, i test once a week for nitrate.
at this point, you are cycled and ready for fish. now, if the ammonia showed a dark green, then i would probably be concerned, but you will see .25 frequently, as i did for many months, and sometimes still do.
with your nitrates, your nitrates are still ok, but you could do a 20% water change and get that down, and be good for the next 7 days.
once you introduce fish, the fish will tell you if there is a problem. you will see different actions that will let you know of water problems, like gasping for air, or sucking for air at the surface, but thats another topic....i wouldnt be concerned with anything like that.
i wouldnt say to not do regular tests, but save yourself the stress and do as needed. doing twice a day, will just cause you un-needed work and stress
 
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DebraLV

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as a fairly new saltwater aquarium person myself, i will add in some things in easy terms.

i was in your shoes just less than a year ago. i had no idea about the nitrogen cycle, bacteria, or anythign else. in fact, i would say i am still learning. nothing that has been said so far, is incorrect. with that said, you can definately slow down a bit with the testing. even with api, as it has been said, is inaccurate, but will give you something to at least go off of. i started with an API kit, and i understand that the .25 will be there quite a bit, so the only time i really use API is if im in a hurry, and just want to make sure i dont have a huge spike going on. with that said, the only thing i really test for now is nitrate, and i dont really do that all that much anymore. at most, i test once a week for nitrate.
at this point, you are cycled and ready for fish. now, if the ammonia showed a dark green, then i would probably be concerned, but you will see .25 frequently, as i did for many months, and sometimes still do.
with your nitrates, your nitrates are still ok, but you could do a 20% water change and get that down, and be good for the next 7 days.
once you introduce fish, the fish will tell you if there is a problem. you will see different actions that will let you know of water problems, like gasping for air, or sucking for air at the surface, but thats another topic....i wouldnt be concerned with anything like that.
i wouldnt say to not do regular tests, but save yourself the stress and do as needed. doing twice a day, will just cause you un-needed work and stress
Thanks Melon. I did get two, juvenile yellow tail damsels yesterday. They are doing great. I know everyone says bad idea due to their aggresiveness and bullying but I don't plan on anything more for this tank except for picking up a crab or snail today to clean up.
In a few months, I'll get the EVO 13.5 all in one, and then get a clown and an anemone. It will be a new tank for my damsels, so they all should get along. I'll keep this tank as a QT.
Thanks for your post.

20210831_082804.jpg
 

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Good choice with that pair of fish that are quite resistant and are ideal for novice aquarists, however a larger tank would have been better. Either way, I have seen a lot of discussion about the false 0.25 of the API ammonia test, so guess what, I use the same test kit, I have a 20 gallon quarantine tank that has never been less than 0.25 ppm, Although my main tank shows 0, I stopped worrying for several days, and as mentioned above this is total ammonia, so free ammonia should be in a safe range, and less now with cycling. However, I would not recommend to any aquarist who does not have test kits for the basic levels, ammonia peaks exist and if you are going to work with live rock in the tank then you should be prepared for that, maybe better kits brand like Salifert or digital kits, I include myself, I need to change kits but for now, enjoy your beautiful damsels.
 
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Good choice with that pair of fish that are quite resistant and are ideal for novice aquarists, however a larger tank would have been better. Either way, I have seen a lot of discussion about the false 0.25 of the API ammonia test, so guess what, I use the same test kit, I have a 20 gallon quarantine tank that has never been less than 0.25 ppm, Although my main tank shows 0, I stopped worrying for several days, and as mentioned above this is total ammonia, so free ammonia should be in a safe range, and less now with cycling. However, I would not recommend to any aquarist who does not have test kits for the basic levels, ammonia peaks exist and if you are going to work with live rock in the tank then you should be prepared for that, maybe better kits brand like Salifert or digital kits, I include myself, I need to change kits but for now, enjoy your beautiful damsels.
Thanks Laloj, Good to know. I have only base rock and Caribsea life rock. My next tank will be an all in one. Then I will buy a couple Hanna checkers for ammonia and nitrates.
With all the 20.00 here, 30.00 there I spent on this tank for equipment, I could have purchased a larger all in one, ugh.
 

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I am no expert but online size guides suggest 30 gal minimum for those fish. I think even the Fluval Evo might be a bit small once they start to grow.
 

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I read trough what have you done and I can just confirm you are cycled and your new fish will be just fine.
now stop testing for ammonia and nitrite. You will never ever will need to do that again.
what you need is a reliable no3 test together with phosphate test. No3 salifert or read sea is just fine. For phosphate I would do Hanna. (I do corals that is why and
)
In your case weekly (max20%) water changes will jus maintain the desired levels for the next year or so.
stop testing more than once a week. Simply no point.
min about 2-3 weeks I would add some more fis like a pair of clowns. Just so the food you add is actually get eaten every time.
Good luck
 
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I read trough what have you done and I can just confirm you are cycled and your new fish will be just fine.
now stop testing for ammonia and nitrite. You will never ever will need to do that again.
what you need is a reliable no3 test together with phosphate test. No3 salifert or read sea is just fine. For phosphate I would do Hanna. (I do corals that is why and
)
In your case weekly (max20%) water changes will jus maintain the desired levels for the next year or so.
stop testing more than once a week. Simply no point.
min about 2-3 weeks I would add some more fis like a pair of clowns. Just so the food you add is actually get eaten every time.
Good luck
Thanks so much. I wish I could add a pair of clowns, but I'm already pushing it with these damsels. It's just a cube 7.5 gallon. I'm guessing the water volume is 6 gallons. I will however purchase a Hanna checker for phospate and nitrates, and will do weekly WC. I swear with all the 10-20.00, here and there I spend on equipment, I could have bought an All In One for half what I already spent.
But I got the reefer fever already and hinting to my guy that I want the Fluval 13.5 gallon for Christmas. I'll stop at that as I have a 1,000 gallon koi pond and a 29 gallon tropical. I do all the maintenance on the koi pond and believe me when I tell you, that's dirty work.
 

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damsels are a good option. they are a heardy fish, not expensive, so if they die, you havent wasted a ton of money. however, none of us are in the business of just spending money for a fish to die, so the fact that they are living well at this point, its a good sign. if you were having an issue with ammonia, the fish will be the first to tell you. damsels, from what i know, dont stay at the top, so if you see them hanging out at the top, sucking air, then its time to worry, but at this point, you should be good. as also mentioned, you can put away the test kits for now. dont hassle yourself unless you think there is a problem. as long as you stay on top of your water changes, you could probably not even do your nitrate tests, or at least not do them but maybe 2 times a month IMO, and thats just to kinda see how much you are adding when it comes to feeding.

for the api, dont just throw it out or discard its results. as it has been said, it is obviously not accurate, but it is still a useful tool in an instance where you need a quick test just to see if something has gone horribly out of whack. IE if you have a huge ammonia spike, it will definately show an elevated ammonia level to confirm what you need to know. if you can find something more reliable, obviously do that, but i like the api kit for somethign like that, because it takes less steps than something like my red sea test kit.
 
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damsels are a good option. they are a heardy fish, not expensive, so if they die, you havent wasted a ton of money. however, none of us are in the business of just spending money for a fish to die, so the fact that they are living well at this point, its a good sign. if you were having an issue with ammonia, the fish will be the first to tell you. damsels, from what i know, dont stay at the top, so if you see them hanging out at the top, sucking air, then its time to worry, but at this point, you should be good. as also mentioned, you can put away the test kits for now. dont hassle yourself unless you think there is a problem. as long as you stay on top of your water changes, you could probably not even do your nitrate tests, or at least not do them but maybe 2 times a month IMO, and thats just to kinda see how much you are adding when it comes to feeding.

for the api, dont just throw it out or discard its results. as it has been said, it is obviously not accurate, but it is still a useful tool in an instance where you need a quick test just to see if something has gone horribly out of whack. IE if you have a huge ammonia spike, it will definately show an elevated ammonia level to confirm what you need to know. if you can find something more reliable, obviously do that, but i like the api kit for somethign like that, because it takes less steps than something like my red sea test kit.
Thanks, they are doing really well, mid swimming, darting back and forth and not hiding so much. Thanks for all the advice.
 

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Thanks so much. I wish I could add a pair of clowns, but I'm already pushing it with these damsels. It's just a cube 7.5 gallon. I'm guessing the water volume is 6 gallons. I will however purchase a Hanna checker for phospate and nitrates, and will do weekly WC. I swear with all the 10-20.00, here and there I spend on equipment, I could have bought an All In One for half what I already spent.
But I got the reefer fever already and hinting to my guy that I want the Fluval 13.5 gallon for Christmas. I'll stop at that as I have a 1,000 gallon koi pond and a 29 gallon tropical. I do all the maintenance on the koi pond and believe me when I tell you, that's dirty work.
I'm sure you can get better for less money as those tanks are not cheap and 13.5 gallons is still very little if you want clownfish or something else. Look for a used glass tank of at least 30 gallons, maybe in a local aquarist club, I know that equipment and tanks are exchanged and sold in the clubs. I'm in Mexico and I have two 30 gallon tanks as sumps, making the conversion to dollars is about 35-40 dollars a new glass tank.
 
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I'm sure you can get better for less money as those tanks are not cheap and 13.5 gallons is still very little if you want clownfish or something else. Look for a used glass tank of at least 30 gallons, maybe in a local aquarist club, I know that equipment and tanks are exchanged and sold in the clubs. I'm in Mexico and I have two 30 gallon tanks as sumps, making the conversion to dollars is about 35-40 dollars a new glass tank.
Yeah, you are probably right. Right now, I am just window shopping an upgrade. Ideally I wanted a 2 paired up clowns but since the tank is freshly cycled, I went with damsels as they were cheap and I could stand to lose 20.00 if I failed.

But I would like to say all you guys and gals on here were spot on with API test kits. My Damsels are healthy and acting perfectly normal 24 hours in the tank.

I did test my tank for ammonia only today. I got the same readings as 2 days ago with ammonia .25.

I then used the same exact SW kit on my 10 gallon tropical, except I used the regular Ph solution that I have for my freshwater tank. I have SW and FW kits. My parameters were perfect on my FW using the SW API kit.

So, I'm not really sure if solutions are the same for FW and SW or if it is just because Damsels can stand a little ammonia. No signs of stress, no gasping, mid swimming and hungry as Hell lol! I feed 1/3 cube of Spirulina and it's gone before it hits the sand and they are still hungry all day. I was told by the LFS to feed 1/3 a cube, once a day for 2 juvenile damsels.

I hope this post makes sense!
 

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I absolutely love my evo. Considering that it’s an AIO and basically comes ready to go it’s really a value. It’s a great starter tank and don’t regret getting it. The provided light can grow some coral. At under $200 it’s a bargain. With that said. I had about 9 fish that were happy. Until ich reared it’s ugly head. That was my fault as I didn’t take the proper procedures to make sure they were healthy.

I did however upgrade the light to a AI prime 16HD and kinda modified the filtration a bit. Also added a green machine UV sterilizer.
 
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I absolutely love my evo. Considering that it’s an AIO and basically comes ready to go it’s really a value. It’s a great starter tank and don’t regret getting it. The provided light can grow some coral. At under $200 it’s a bargain. With that said. I had about 9 fish that were happy. Until ich reared it’s ugly head. That was my fault as I didn’t take the proper procedures to make sure they were healthy.

I did however upgrade the light to a AI prime 16HD and kinda modified the filtration a bit. Also added a green machine UV sterilizer.
I think so too Olonmv! They are at Petco for 169.99. I have it in my cart lol, but in a month or so I will. Saving up my Amazon rewards! I've not dabbled in diseases yet, that's a whole new animal for me with SW.

But all in all, I am glad for all the advice you guys have given me. I've followed strictly but did get a little freaked as my tank was cycling since August 5th and still showed ammonia. Therefore Brandon gave me a talking too in a 3rd party thread lol.

I blame it on the API kit that so many said were inaccurate or just the fact that my Damsels are just hardy and survive in not so perfect SW. It's so funny with SW fish. I've been observing my Damsels for a day. They are not like my tropicals who are all over the tank, mid stream, picking at bottom debris, spitting it out, etc. when they get hungry and are kind of slow swimming unlike Damsels who are all over the tank looking for something to eat except for left over food that fell to the sand. They won't touch it.

I want to get snails or a crab but I was told my tank is too new and they will have nothing to eat. Believe me when I tell you, I throw 1/3 a cube of Spirulina in there once a day and they eat it before it hits the ground and then they gobble up when the filter breaks up the chunk. It never hits the sand.

I can only assume SW fish basically remain at the top or mid stream, unless you get Gobies. It's a whole new world to me with SW and it's so very cool.

I'm sorry if I am OCD on stuff. It's my first SW tank.
 

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If you have a Fluval Evo in stock, in a local Petco that you can collect from, then you can get 20% off by ordering online and picking it up. This drops the price to $135.99, which is an absolute bargain IMO.
 

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I think so too Olonmv! They are at Petco for 169.99. I have it in my cart lol, but in a month or so I will. Saving up my Amazon rewards! I've not dabbled in diseases yet, that's a whole new animal for me with SW.

But all in all, I am glad for all the advice you guys have given me. I've followed strictly but did get a little freaked as my tank was cycling since August 5th and still showed ammonia. Therefore Brandon gave me a talking too in a 3rd party thread lol.

I blame it on the API kit that so many said were inaccurate or just the fact that my Damsels are just hardy and survive in not so perfect SW. It's so funny with SW fish. I've been observing my Damsels for a day. They are not like my tropicals who are all over the tank, mid stream, picking at bottom debris, spitting it out, etc. when they get hungry and are kind of slow swimming unlike Damsels who are all over the tank looking for something to eat except for left over food that fell to the sand. They won't touch it.

I want to get snails or a crab but I was told my tank is too new and they will have nothing to eat. Believe me when I tell you, I throw 1/3 a cube of Spirulina in there once a day and they eat it before it hits the ground and then they gobble up when the filter breaks up the chunk. It never hits the sand.

I can only assume SW fish basically remain at the top or mid stream, unless you get Gobies. It's a whole new world to me with SW and it's so very cool.

I'm sorry if I am OCD on stuff. It's my first SW tank.
I found mine like a diamond in the rough at a LFS here in Houston at $145. It was practically stolen lol.

Youre very welcome and I know how nerve wracking it is when you have a question and want an answer. If you’re like me you want instant gratification when it comes to questions. There has to be a lot of patience when it comes to the hobby. I highly recommend disease management prior to introducing your fish and hopefully in the future corals. It truly is stressful trying to manage once disease hits your DT. If you have no green in your tank I would wait on the snails/cuc. They will starve to death otherwise especially with your fish chomping away at spirialena before it touches base.

Im almost one year into the hobby and trust me when I tell you……there’s a ton to learn and there will be a ton of road bumps…..especially in my case since I balance a tank, work, marriage and, 5 kiddos, one which just started college. But, when things are running smoothly it’s relaxing to watch your underwater world! Good luck and when I can I will help ya! Luckily there are a ton of very helpful people on this thread and more than enough information you can read up on. Brandon is very knowledgeable and you’ll feel like the reading will never stop lol.
 
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DebraLV

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If you have a Fluval Evo in stock, in a local Petco that you can collect from, then you can get 20% off by ordering online and picking it up. This drops the price to $135.99, which is an absolute bargain IMO.
Yes, I know, don't tempt me lol! They do have it in stock for pick up, straight away.

My tank was freshly cycled and it's new. I want to give it a month or so, but Thank You! I've heard so many good things about that tank.
 

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If you have a Fluval Evo in stock, in a local Petco that you can collect from, then you can get 20% off by ordering online and picking it up. This drops the price to $135.99, which is an absolute bargain IMO.
+1…. When I need to get something from petco I usually find it on their site cheaper than what they tag it for at the store and they honor the online price….always. I’ve saved money being “that guy” lol.
 

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