GARRIGA
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Tampa Bay Reef Keepers
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MAC of SW Florida
My Tank Thread
No clue when I'll get started as I'm still working through the design as well as building the most important component being funds. Here's my design phase with reasoning behind it.
Love cubes therefore will either go with a single cube or just double this design but structurally this won't change. Alternative should I go rectangular vs cube being AIO sumps moved to ends to cause better flow of water from one end to the other which will become clearer in a moment.
Goal is to reduce equipment, maintenance and use of water. Along with creating desired flow and work within the constrains of how much juice I have at the available outlet should adding a 20 amp dedicated circuit not feasible.
Fundamentals:
Cube with two rear unconnected chambers. One chamber will act as an overflow with weirs top, center and bottom to ensure proper water movement through out tank along with where I'll dose that needed. Either bottomed drilled or just an area where canister will draw water from. This chamber will also house media to trap and decompose detritus thereby eliminating the need for socks or roller mats or manual labor. Second chamber will act as the return section post canister and UVC with returned water entering in such a way as to tumble Pom Pom Macroalgae and since post UVC might reduce chance of GHA growing on it along with it tumbling. Light fixture will either illuminate from the bottom and back and/or top to ensure plenty of PAR provided yet in such a way as to reduce bleed into display or room. Top weir will force water at surface to facilitate removing hydrogen sulfide potentially produced within canister or initial sump media.
As needed, wave makers will be added around return area below surface weir to ensure no dead spots but main flow will be controlled by how much water can be dumped and ran through this closed loop system. Since two large chambers being used, limit being return weir which will span the length of that chamber and an option being that chamber could be longer to allow greater flow from the closed loop. Overflow doesn't need to be as long considering it will be drawing water from three points.
Not a fan of sumps due to complexity with making them quiet, potential leak concerns and as I get older last I want is constantly bending over to maintain it. Closed loop systems can potentially provide more flow and with this approach I'm literally dumping all the water and replacing it which means less chance of dead spots and less worries that the wave maker at one end too powerful for that nearby yet not moving enough water at the other. This ensure regardless what end that all life should have the same flow.
As ideas developed I'll update this and will be converting an IM 15g sitting in the garage to run some tests. Then find a custom builder eventually.
Tank will most likely sit on an aluminum stand with PVC or wood panels using magnets as I'd rather not use hinges and don't expect to require constant access underneath.
Filtration:
Concept is simple and something I've been working with since my first undergravel filter in the 70s with FW. Allow decomposition to handle the heavy work then solve nitrates. In the 70s that was with water changes based on water turning yellow. Had no clue about test kits and didn't run carbon due to use of UG yet I knew nitrates existed and just assumed yellow water was why. Yes, I was rather clueless.
80s brought caulerpa in tubs with shop lights but never got around to implementing them and only other solutions besides water changes were supposedly media that would remove nitrates yet very expensive and outside my budget. Buckets were the only solution although at some point reduced time due to school, work and play resulted in total neglect of carrying buckets and discovered my nitrates which used to hover around 80 ppm were now at 20 ppm. Also was when I discovered test kits and this was my first SW tank that was ran with an undergravel filter and no carbon. Oddly, water didn't turn yellow and incorrectly assumed because of lower nitrates although didn't understand why nitrates were lower and didn't care because time was precious and funds limited to play.
90s persisted with now upgrading to a canister although buckets used early time was just as limited although now with greater funds meant more for play and eventually this tank also neglected. Same results. With time nitrates stayed around 20 ppm but now I had a better understanding of denitrification which in the 80s based on my knowledge solved with coils and finally realized needed slow enough flow to allow nitrification to remove DO although still no clue how carbon fit in. That canister clogged as I noticed flow reduced but being there was still flow and fill with hardy damsels and a snowflake eel I didn't think much of other than occasionally tossing floss and replacing ChemiPure when water yellowed as now I had a better understanding of why that happened. No water changes and media wasn't cleaned. Just left the brown muck since I understood this is what today we call mulm yet grasped it was final stage of decomposition (at least then) and supposedly inert yet based on FW knowledge knew breeders relied on this muck to feed fry. Why exactly no clue. These days I understand mineralization the final stage although that can take decades and only reason I may occasionally open that canister and remove the mulm.
Keeping it simple:
I'm lazy by nature and likely why I've spend a career automating that I do which required developing skills at reverse engineering that others do. Complexity to me just muddies the waters and creates more effort than needed. More of a holistic thinker than detail oriented. Rather automate a process to handle the details therefore only needing that aspect initially.
Nature solved keeping life long ago. Yet we try perfecting it vs just going with the flow of that which has existed before we were born. There's also profits in complexity and boasting rights but that's not who I am and seek only self pleasure regardless what others think. Plus rather spend extra cash fishing or traveling then having show piece sumps and wowing the masses with my Herbie plumbing. Not even sure I spelled that right. Don't care.
As this design progresses please feel free to criticize or enlighten me as it is a journey and I want this right the first time and why I'm taking as long as I have plus money allocated previously lost in the market and will take time to rebuild. That might have been a good thing and best see the silver lining in prior events. Crying not my thing. Measure twice an cut once works. My measurements being working the kinks out and my cuts the custom builder.
Tank:
Grandchildren and life demand I go acrylic or very thick glass. One option is utilizing PVC bottom and back and thick glass panels or just accepting the fact every few years pay an expert to sand those scratches out. Can do externally myself but rather pay an expert to handle the inside which I expect with my affinity for coraline algae will result in plenty unless I find a magnet worthy of this task. Nice part about PVC bottom and back being easier to drill. Planet does these builds and based on their Oceanic origins the front runner. Should I go acrylic then I'll seek closer to home.
Filtration (more details):
Not much to say here. Overflow chamber as mentioned will capture and decompose detritus being of coarse enough size to prevent clogging. Canister will process the rest resulting in inorganics that will either feed the macroalgae or returned to the tank to feed the corals. Still figuring this out and might need to dose ammonium based on what I'm learning in that arena although seems very similar to planted German tanks of the 70s I spent way too much time learning. Grasp that I might be stealing ammonium from the corals yet see them as the first line of defense from that fish produced from breathing and plan on having lots of overfed fish. Heavy in just makes sense.
Next stage will be a series of Big Blue canisters housing finer media that can be exchanged as needed based on goal such as perhaps treating an ich outbreak by temporarily using low micron cartridges to remove that free swimming as I'm a bigger believer in acquired immunity vs sterilization. Latter for me likely not feasible as I don't have the space for QT of every life added beyond perhaps a few weeks of observation.
UVC will be incorporated but not to solve pathogens and specifically in conjunction with peroxide to periodically reduce pathogens but mostly to hopefully remove remnants of coral warfare and reduce or eliminate need for carbon. However, all water returning to return sump will be filtered by UV to reduce GHA on macroalgae assuming I go that route of algae to solve pH as that's my main need for it due to high levels of co2 in home. Were I to resolve that with an air exchanger than one less complexity to worry about meaning no extra lights or having to replenish trace that would have removed. Carbon dosing can solve nitrates and to some extent phosphates and LC can remove the rest as needed. @Lasse pointed me to the option of feeding the denitrification chamber and reduce the amount of carbon used thereby reducing the impact on pH. Could also supplement dosing with kalk slurry but that just adds complexity. Growing algae seems simpler at that point.
I'm sure I've left something out and will update as memory returns or others chime in. Seems the journey as much fun as the eventual finish.
Dimensions:
Cube four feet x four feet and undetermined height or equivalent of two cubes were I to utilizes entire space available.
Optional Plenum:
Considering adding a plenum and drilling tank bottom to integrate flow with closed loop using gate valves to maintain enough flow to prevent hydrogen sulfide formation yet not so much as to disturb corals as I don't know how they'd react were downward flow heavy. This will allow periodic shutting off of main flow and opening those gates valves to allow stirring of gravel to loosen detritus and getting trapped by canister as well as ensuring constant oxygen to assist and maintain nitrification. Especially if this turns into FOWLR or very fish heavy. Latter guaranteed. Obviously not an option if I go with sand and being flow will be handled by moving water through a closed loop system vs traditional heavy use of wave makers that might be feasible but testing first needed. Might want wrasses or other inhabitants that hide and need sand.
Updates:
I'll update this first post assuming there's interest in my approach and place dates for easy progression vs adding a ton of more posts which can be harder to follow for first time reader.
Design:
Basic diagram to better explain my simple approach to life in a box. As to what life will populate that box will depend on what support I can provide. Not going to try making that unrealistic just because I must have sticks. If flow or lights or perfect measures unobtainable than live rock, inverts, fish and Shrooms will suffice. Keep expectations simple and results won't likely dissatisfy.
Love cubes therefore will either go with a single cube or just double this design but structurally this won't change. Alternative should I go rectangular vs cube being AIO sumps moved to ends to cause better flow of water from one end to the other which will become clearer in a moment.
Goal is to reduce equipment, maintenance and use of water. Along with creating desired flow and work within the constrains of how much juice I have at the available outlet should adding a 20 amp dedicated circuit not feasible.
Fundamentals:
Cube with two rear unconnected chambers. One chamber will act as an overflow with weirs top, center and bottom to ensure proper water movement through out tank along with where I'll dose that needed. Either bottomed drilled or just an area where canister will draw water from. This chamber will also house media to trap and decompose detritus thereby eliminating the need for socks or roller mats or manual labor. Second chamber will act as the return section post canister and UVC with returned water entering in such a way as to tumble Pom Pom Macroalgae and since post UVC might reduce chance of GHA growing on it along with it tumbling. Light fixture will either illuminate from the bottom and back and/or top to ensure plenty of PAR provided yet in such a way as to reduce bleed into display or room. Top weir will force water at surface to facilitate removing hydrogen sulfide potentially produced within canister or initial sump media.
As needed, wave makers will be added around return area below surface weir to ensure no dead spots but main flow will be controlled by how much water can be dumped and ran through this closed loop system. Since two large chambers being used, limit being return weir which will span the length of that chamber and an option being that chamber could be longer to allow greater flow from the closed loop. Overflow doesn't need to be as long considering it will be drawing water from three points.
Not a fan of sumps due to complexity with making them quiet, potential leak concerns and as I get older last I want is constantly bending over to maintain it. Closed loop systems can potentially provide more flow and with this approach I'm literally dumping all the water and replacing it which means less chance of dead spots and less worries that the wave maker at one end too powerful for that nearby yet not moving enough water at the other. This ensure regardless what end that all life should have the same flow.
As ideas developed I'll update this and will be converting an IM 15g sitting in the garage to run some tests. Then find a custom builder eventually.
Tank will most likely sit on an aluminum stand with PVC or wood panels using magnets as I'd rather not use hinges and don't expect to require constant access underneath.
Filtration:
Concept is simple and something I've been working with since my first undergravel filter in the 70s with FW. Allow decomposition to handle the heavy work then solve nitrates. In the 70s that was with water changes based on water turning yellow. Had no clue about test kits and didn't run carbon due to use of UG yet I knew nitrates existed and just assumed yellow water was why. Yes, I was rather clueless.
80s brought caulerpa in tubs with shop lights but never got around to implementing them and only other solutions besides water changes were supposedly media that would remove nitrates yet very expensive and outside my budget. Buckets were the only solution although at some point reduced time due to school, work and play resulted in total neglect of carrying buckets and discovered my nitrates which used to hover around 80 ppm were now at 20 ppm. Also was when I discovered test kits and this was my first SW tank that was ran with an undergravel filter and no carbon. Oddly, water didn't turn yellow and incorrectly assumed because of lower nitrates although didn't understand why nitrates were lower and didn't care because time was precious and funds limited to play.
90s persisted with now upgrading to a canister although buckets used early time was just as limited although now with greater funds meant more for play and eventually this tank also neglected. Same results. With time nitrates stayed around 20 ppm but now I had a better understanding of denitrification which in the 80s based on my knowledge solved with coils and finally realized needed slow enough flow to allow nitrification to remove DO although still no clue how carbon fit in. That canister clogged as I noticed flow reduced but being there was still flow and fill with hardy damsels and a snowflake eel I didn't think much of other than occasionally tossing floss and replacing ChemiPure when water yellowed as now I had a better understanding of why that happened. No water changes and media wasn't cleaned. Just left the brown muck since I understood this is what today we call mulm yet grasped it was final stage of decomposition (at least then) and supposedly inert yet based on FW knowledge knew breeders relied on this muck to feed fry. Why exactly no clue. These days I understand mineralization the final stage although that can take decades and only reason I may occasionally open that canister and remove the mulm.
Keeping it simple:
I'm lazy by nature and likely why I've spend a career automating that I do which required developing skills at reverse engineering that others do. Complexity to me just muddies the waters and creates more effort than needed. More of a holistic thinker than detail oriented. Rather automate a process to handle the details therefore only needing that aspect initially.
Nature solved keeping life long ago. Yet we try perfecting it vs just going with the flow of that which has existed before we were born. There's also profits in complexity and boasting rights but that's not who I am and seek only self pleasure regardless what others think. Plus rather spend extra cash fishing or traveling then having show piece sumps and wowing the masses with my Herbie plumbing. Not even sure I spelled that right. Don't care.
As this design progresses please feel free to criticize or enlighten me as it is a journey and I want this right the first time and why I'm taking as long as I have plus money allocated previously lost in the market and will take time to rebuild. That might have been a good thing and best see the silver lining in prior events. Crying not my thing. Measure twice an cut once works. My measurements being working the kinks out and my cuts the custom builder.
Tank:
Grandchildren and life demand I go acrylic or very thick glass. One option is utilizing PVC bottom and back and thick glass panels or just accepting the fact every few years pay an expert to sand those scratches out. Can do externally myself but rather pay an expert to handle the inside which I expect with my affinity for coraline algae will result in plenty unless I find a magnet worthy of this task. Nice part about PVC bottom and back being easier to drill. Planet does these builds and based on their Oceanic origins the front runner. Should I go acrylic then I'll seek closer to home.
Filtration (more details):
Not much to say here. Overflow chamber as mentioned will capture and decompose detritus being of coarse enough size to prevent clogging. Canister will process the rest resulting in inorganics that will either feed the macroalgae or returned to the tank to feed the corals. Still figuring this out and might need to dose ammonium based on what I'm learning in that arena although seems very similar to planted German tanks of the 70s I spent way too much time learning. Grasp that I might be stealing ammonium from the corals yet see them as the first line of defense from that fish produced from breathing and plan on having lots of overfed fish. Heavy in just makes sense.
Next stage will be a series of Big Blue canisters housing finer media that can be exchanged as needed based on goal such as perhaps treating an ich outbreak by temporarily using low micron cartridges to remove that free swimming as I'm a bigger believer in acquired immunity vs sterilization. Latter for me likely not feasible as I don't have the space for QT of every life added beyond perhaps a few weeks of observation.
UVC will be incorporated but not to solve pathogens and specifically in conjunction with peroxide to periodically reduce pathogens but mostly to hopefully remove remnants of coral warfare and reduce or eliminate need for carbon. However, all water returning to return sump will be filtered by UV to reduce GHA on macroalgae assuming I go that route of algae to solve pH as that's my main need for it due to high levels of co2 in home. Were I to resolve that with an air exchanger than one less complexity to worry about meaning no extra lights or having to replenish trace that would have removed. Carbon dosing can solve nitrates and to some extent phosphates and LC can remove the rest as needed. @Lasse pointed me to the option of feeding the denitrification chamber and reduce the amount of carbon used thereby reducing the impact on pH. Could also supplement dosing with kalk slurry but that just adds complexity. Growing algae seems simpler at that point.
I'm sure I've left something out and will update as memory returns or others chime in. Seems the journey as much fun as the eventual finish.
Dimensions:
Cube four feet x four feet and undetermined height or equivalent of two cubes were I to utilizes entire space available.
Optional Plenum:
Considering adding a plenum and drilling tank bottom to integrate flow with closed loop using gate valves to maintain enough flow to prevent hydrogen sulfide formation yet not so much as to disturb corals as I don't know how they'd react were downward flow heavy. This will allow periodic shutting off of main flow and opening those gates valves to allow stirring of gravel to loosen detritus and getting trapped by canister as well as ensuring constant oxygen to assist and maintain nitrification. Especially if this turns into FOWLR or very fish heavy. Latter guaranteed. Obviously not an option if I go with sand and being flow will be handled by moving water through a closed loop system vs traditional heavy use of wave makers that might be feasible but testing first needed. Might want wrasses or other inhabitants that hide and need sand.
Updates:
I'll update this first post assuming there's interest in my approach and place dates for easy progression vs adding a ton of more posts which can be harder to follow for first time reader.
Design:
Basic diagram to better explain my simple approach to life in a box. As to what life will populate that box will depend on what support I can provide. Not going to try making that unrealistic just because I must have sticks. If flow or lights or perfect measures unobtainable than live rock, inverts, fish and Shrooms will suffice. Keep expectations simple and results won't likely dissatisfy.
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