Kessil Controller

[soldier.1102]

Hello All! I have been using my Kessil controller for my A 160 WE kessil light. I am hoping someone can help me with programming it. I have no clue what good settings are for it. It is for my 32 G biocube, I plan on having a really good hammer island and a lot of zoas. My only issue aside from not knowing what settings to use is the controller will shut it off way before its set to turn off. Any ideas how to fix it?

 

[LC8Sumi]

The Kessils start up at around 1.3V (instead of around 0.1V, as one would expect), and on the controller this means around 13% (instead of 1%, as one would expect). So You basicly want to do 13% as the null point, then your program, then 13% and then 0% immediately after. (maybe it's 14%, not sure, because I'm not using the spectral controller, but a DIY one - but I was surprised that the Kessil controler also has this kind of behaviour (instead of scaling the 0-100% range onto the 1.3V-10V signal))

As for the settings, I have the A360we's which even them are not very powerful, so I run them at 100% intensity and 60% color (because that's about when it pumps out the most PARs) + supplement it with Ati blue+ bulbs for more PAR & to bring back some blue & UV color instead of the ugly white (that makes everything look brown and pale).

If it's the kessils only, I'd probably go with 100% intensity & 30-40% "color". You lose some PARs with this color setting, but at least the tank won't look that ugly.
So something like:
8AM:00 - 13% intensity & 13% color
9AM:00 - 100% intensity & 30% color
7PM:00 - 100% intensity & 30% color
7PM:59 - 13% intensity & 13% color
8PM:00 - 0% intensity & 0% color

 

[Midrats]

You don't need to put in 13% for it to turn on, 5% on the spectral controller turns it on. Keep the color and intensity low starting out, they are deceptively powerful lights.

 

[LC8Sumi]

they are deceptively powerful lights.

They are not

(and this is the 2x powerful a360we, not the 160):

 

[Midrats]

They are not

(and this is the 2x powerful a360we, not the 160):

BRS is not the authority on reef lighting or anything reefing for that matter. Let the OP start out at 100% intensity 40% color right out of the gate, even with the 160. I'm going to guess he will have some unhappy zoas and hammers.

 

[LC8Sumi]

BRS is not the authority on reef lighting or anything reefing for that matter. Let the OP start out at 100% intensity 40% color right out of the gate, even with the 160. I'm going to guess he will have some unhappy zoas and hammers.

I understand.
But who to trust then if not BRS and their PAR readings?
I understand that noone trusts a stranger like me, and won’t believe that I needed to supplement the tank (even with the a360) with t5’s to get enough PAR for SPS, but BRS making things up?

 

[madweazl]

How many 160s are you running? A single unit at 100% isnt going to fry any corals unless they came from a tank with very low light.

 

[Midrats]

I'm not saying you shouldn't be trusted, I thought your reply was very thoughtful and thorough. The OP said he wants to keep zoas and hammers. My experience with multiple different Kessil products has taught me to start low and work my way up, especially with LPS. I have fried plenty with these lights.

 

[LC8Sumi]

I'm not saying you shouldn't be trusted, I thought your reply was very thoughtful and thorough. The OP said he wants to keep zoas and hammers. My experience with multiple different Kessil products has taught me to start low and work my way up, especially with LPS. I have fried plenty with these lights.

Maybe the “problem” is that I can only think in SPS after the years. You’re right that LPS would need a different mindset

 

[Da8]

what about kessil tuna 160 + t5 half whites/half blues for sps dominated?

I'm very very interested in changing my actual radion g4pro+2 t5 for the t5+kessil combo.

 

[LC8Sumi]

what about kessil tuna 160 + t5 half whites/half blues for sps dominated?

I'm very very interested in changing my actual radion g4pro+2 t5 for the t5+kessil combo.

It would be a bad move to swap the radions for a Kessil.

 

[madweazl]

The Radion XR15 is equivalent to a Kessil A360 so as long as you're swapping one for one, there wont be any issues. Having owned the XR15 (G3) and the Kessils, I kept the Kessils and ditched the Radions but that was a matter of personal preference; both can grow corals but the shimmer and wider spread of the Kessil are the reasons I stuck with them (had no desire to mount the lights a foot and half off the tank to get the same spread). As for the bad move comment, that is likely coming from a user that lacks experience with one or both of the arrays mentioned (both are plenty capable).

 

[LC8Sumi]

The Radion XR15 is equivalent to a Kessil A360 so as long as you're swapping one for one, there wont be any issues. Having owned the XR15 (G3) and the Kessils, I kept the Kessils and ditched the Radions but that was a matter of personal preference; both can grow corals but the shimmer and wider spread of the Kessil are the reasons I stuck with them (had no desire to mount the lights a foot and half off the tank to get the same spread). As for the bad move comment, that is likely coming from a user that lacks experience with one or both of the arrays mentioned (both are plenty capable).

I've had the A360's for almost two years now. On paper, yes there are the "same" as an XR15, but in reality they're far away from eachother. First of all, the Kessil has great shimmer, and that's about the only + for it. Let's see the negatives:
1, In reality it puts out less PAR's (around 2/3) as the XR15pro (not to mention the 160, which is only 50% as powerful)
2, It has a somewhat predifined spectrum, so if you want just a hint more red or purple for a picture maybe or just see where your corals are the most happy at? Yep, you won't get that. It just doesn't have the needed leds for that in it's matrix array. The Radion on the other hand is fully customizable spectrum wise
3, It has horrible cut-off (or shading). It's basicly a single-point light source (hence the great shimmer effect), but the corals don't care that much about shimmer, they care if they get light or not. Before adding the T5's the base of the corals were dying because they were not getting light.
(+1, It has an arrogant and delusional fan base, but so does the Ecotech club, so that's not really a thing to bring up against KessilD)

All 3 "issues" are solveable with a T5 - Kessil hybrid setup (that's how I use mine), but then you're really keeping the Kessils just for the shimmer and as a poor par (compared to other options) base light, and set the spectrum/color (once) with the T5's, which you would need to swap every year or so. This might get ugly & access/space limiting unless you're using something like the AquaticLife fixture, which is also not on the cheap side for what it is. You don't have moonlight, weather simulation either - if that's something you'd like.

Ooor, for about the same price as 4 t5 bulbs, aquaticlife fixture, 2x a360we, spectral controller, you could get 3 XR15's with the diffusers, and have the same par and coverage, but with less energy consumption + a tidyer setup + no need to replace bulbs + be able to set the spectrum whenever and however you want.

I'm not saying I'm right, I'm just saying that if you let go of the fan-hype for a minute & look around on the internet, you'll see the results (and a lot of them) with the Radions, and won't see a single full blown away SPS tank with Kessils only. There must be a reason to this.

 

[Da8]

I've opened a new thread so we can discuss there better.

Sorry to the OP for using the thread.

Thanks all for the replies.
I will answer you back in the new thread.

 

[madweazl]

I've had the A360's for almost two years now. On paper, yes there are the "same" as an XR15, but in reality they're far away from eachother. First of all, the Kessil has great shimmer, and that's about the only + for it.

Your notion that the Kessil and Radion have a large PAR disparity isn't accurate when the lights are mounted in a fashion to produce like results. To match the spread and blending of the A360, the XR15 needs to be mounted a foot higher and use a diffuser and when you do this, PAR is almost identical. In regard to point source, they're very similar. Three A360s over the same area as three XR15s will have equal results and share the same positive and negative attributes. For the many that like to screw with the color spectrum, sure, the XR15 has an advantage (with the disadvantage typically being poor results). Kessil addressed that with the A360X so now Kessil users can screw with their corals too.

 

[soldier.1102]

The Kessils start up at around 1.3V (instead of around 0.1V, as one would expect), and on the controller this means around 13% (instead of 1%, as one would expect). So You basicly want to do 13% as the null point, then your program, then 13% and then 0% immediately after. (maybe it's 14%, not sure, because I'm not using the spectral controller, but a DIY one - but I was surprised that the Kessil controler also has this kind of behaviour (instead of scaling the 0-100% range onto the 1.3V-10V signal))

As for the settings, I have the A360we's which even them are not very powerful, so I run them at 100% intensity and 60% color (because that's about when it pumps out the most PARs) + supplement it with Ati blue+ bulbs for more PAR & to bring back some blue & UV color instead of the ugly white (that makes everything look brown and pale).

If it's the kessils only, I'd probably go with 100% intensity & 30-40% "color". You lose some PARs with this color setting, but at least the tank won't look that ugly.
So something like:
8AM:00 - 13% intensity & 13% color
9AM:00 - 100% intensity & 30% color
7PM:00 - 100% intensity & 30% color
7PM:59 - 13% intensity & 13% color
8PM:00 - 0% intensity & 0% color

Awesome thank you so much!!!!!!!!! I have a bunch of Zoas going here pretty quick, I have had a lot of fish but this is my first go at coral. So, I need all the help I can get. Thank you again!

 

[minus9]

I would start with 40% to 50% intensity and work your way up from there. Your corals will tell you if you need more light or not (zoas will stretch for the light if too low). Color is to your liking, but I've found 30% to 50% to be a good blend for me.
Run a 12hr cycle with a 2 or 3hr ramp up/down and 6hrs of peak. I also include a midday point, which allows me to raise the intensity more gradually. I would raise the midday by 5%, wait a week, then raise the 11:00 & 17:00 points 5%, wait a week and observe, then continue from there. On my 22g sps nano, I never got above 70% intensity on all three 160's, which were 6" to 8" off the water. Par was in the 400's in the first 4" to 6" of water.
It's far better to under light your corals than to add too much light, they can survive much longer with less light, but you're sure to kill and/or bleach them with too much light. Patience and observation is the key here.
Here's an example to start with, again, color is to your liking. Go slow.
Time - Int - Color
7:55 - 0% - 0%
8:00 - 5% - 0%
11:00 - 40% - 30%
14:00 - 40% - 30%
17:00 - 40% - 30%
20:05 - 0% - 0%

 

[minus9]

This was my 22g nano with three 160's.